altezzaclub

Do you think 32/36 chokes are small enough? You will be pulling only 2/3 of the air velocity through the carb at idle or at any similar rev range. So low down you might not have enough air being sucked in to make it work efficiently. It will probably bog down at idle then flatspot as soon as you open the throttle. Certainly once the revs are up it should be the same, and those jets should give you the correct mixture for the air going through. Its just that you will need 4000rpm to make that carb work the same as the Cortina at 3000rpm. PM rob83KE70, as he was looking at exactly the same problem with a couple of Webers sitting in his garage last month.

Toss in a Cynos Beta, a Paseo over here. My son had one for a few years before he got the Levin BZ-G. It was dirt cheap to run, 100% reliable and quick enough for fun until he drove the BZ-G!! Ran a 5EF motor at 100bhp.

It reads R or L when it reaches the end of the bar graph. I've seen 20 on there for lean and 11 for rich, but really the important figures are 12 to 17 or so. After that its too rich or too lean. I'll grab some photos of it in use tomorrow or Tuesday when I get sorted out a bit more. Usually they are mounted further away than I put them, down just past the collector and before the exhaust pipe starts. Next I want a fuel flow computer so I can relate mixture to amount of fuel being used, then a pitot tube so I can measure airflow when draughting trucks and then a vac gauge on the cold air inlet and then... :P

I used one on each carb Evan, so I could see any air leaks or problems. The switch in the console flicks from one input to the other, and they are suprisingly similar in readings. When I'm bored I'll loan it out for a few beers and a swap set of extractors!! :P It hauls 100kph with ease now, and doesn't die on any hills except the really steep two climbing back up to Orange. Chalk and cheese compared to the stock auto we bought!

I fitted the cold air tube before I left, and I was driving up the flat inland road past the Griffith turnoff at a neat 100kph. It was running lean, flicking between 14.7 down to 16, which is fine, when we swept around a long corner and changed direction. It promptly went rich, between about 13 and 14.7!! I watched it as another corner came up a few minutes later and once again it went lean! Over an hour or so I realised that the almost-headwind was being blocked from the cold air tube entry by the headlight when we travelled Northeast, and unimpeded when we travelled Northwest! So you can change your fuel usage by having the air intake in the wrong place! Needless to say, a trumpet extension to the back of the grille is on the plans! It also went rich when draughting trucks in their slipstream...

The girl had previously tossed the center console out, so I rescued that for the FMD meter that rb20 rolla gave to me. That was powered off the cigarette lighter. I'd just got to this step when I had to go to Melbourne for a week, and the son's Mighty Woo failed its pink slip in massive style. This meant a quick change of plans and we headed off in the 'rolla on a 2500km venture! The meters worked beautifully, the carbs were easily balanced and the needle options sorted. It ran at 7.5L/100km up and down, about 9.4L/100km around Melb and never gave a moments hassle. It cruises around 14.7 to lean, goes instantly rich when booted, and goes to 17 or more lean on over-run. I've got a couple of videos but don't know how to load them yet.

They have to fit at odd angles to clear the chassis rail, but that worked out fine and they were simple to wire up. The sensor wires are running through the convenient rubber bung in the firewall.

Well, I starterd with a pair of Commodore VT oxygen sensors from the wreckers for $40, and a pair of 18mm nuts. I drilled and filed the holes in number 1 & 4 exhausts and paid a welder $20 to fit them. The worst thing was that the inner layer of fibreglass was too brittle to re-use properly!

Check tappet gaps for a bent valve and do a compression test. Check head gasket too, although if it is bad enough to backfire you should hear it running rough. I assume the compression ratio is astronomical and that may be a problem area.

Ok, we just got back from a week in Melbourne, its 1000km each way. I never topped it up before we went and it took 3/4 of a litre from the Valvoline 'Classic' 20W-50 container. We ran around Melb for the week, came back up at a steady 100kph or plus a bit when draughting a truck here and there, and it has dropped half a dozen drops on the floor from the back of the %^$&!! sump gasket and needs half a litre. That's if the 'full' to 'low' marks are a litre apart! That's with twin SUs, a cam cut, skimmed head & exhaust system, so it goes a lot harder than stock. Original rings too, must be up around 200,000km now. Hauled 7.5L/100km on the open road, a bit less going down there with the lean needles, and I noticed the son had a few hundred extra revs on when it was his turn to drive. I think they work a lot harder at 3400rpm then 3000rpm. At a Steel Wheels show one year they took a Honda 125 or similar and took raffle tickets on how long it would last on full throttle on the stand. It ran out of gas still pulling full revs with no airflow!! :P

I'd give it a week of general driving, so you know there are no niggling problems before you have it tuned. Don't thrash it in case its running lean with those jets and you burn a valve. That would also smooth the cam in, and I never ran mine for any particular time at 2000rpm when I fitted it. How about tappet gap?? Are you gong to use the big gap that the cam grinders talk about? I think its 14thou on my Crow, so I started there but they were too noisy so I closed them down to an acceptable level. I've got them at 12-13thou using the 'rule of 9' method of setting and just one is tapping still.

Gold! They were great, and realistic too! :P

Forget it, you can only set to factory marks unless you change the way the sprocket mounts. The Datsun 1600 had two holes in the sprocket, two marks on the sprocket, and a mark on the backing plate. You picked either hole to align the marks, and we used to drill a third hole on the sprocket so we had 5deg, 10deg and 15deg choices, and a chain tooth was 16deg I think. That gave us a range of cam timings at a low cost. You could do the same if you were keen enough, but just setting it to stock will do unless you're going full-time track racing with it. If you put a protractor on the crank you could measure when max intake valve opening is. It should be close to that.

Go fiddle some more! What you did has upset it and you just need to get it back where it was. Either that or learn all about it and set it up correctly.

Long list of faults follows.... The guy is a crook! Run away! Those are so obvious and would fail a vehicle check, so his compliance business is very dodgy! Most of those cars would ahve been owned by young guys by now and thoroughly thrashed and abused. My boy's one burns oil, but I haven't seen any coolant leaks or head work on it. How much?? $4grand? I don't think my son is going to get that much for his.

Very few cars going into NZ have a service history- The Japanese auction people just toss everything out of the car apparently. When you're paying so little for a newish car it just doesn't matter. There are stacks of stories about cars running for 5years in Japan and not getting an oil change because to them they are running it into the ground. ...and you're right, it would be in Japanese.

My son has had a '95 Levin BZG for years- he left it in my brother's barn in NZ when he moved over here! It burns oil, not enough to see smoke but you have to add oil between changes, the same as I have to do in the Altezza. It comes with the "over 100bhp/litre" plan! Other than that it has been completely trouble-free for the 5years he's owned it. I think his cousin is selling it for him now. Its got 160,000km on. I drove for a month when I went back on holiday- I'm not a FWD fan at all but it was pretty good as far as they go. Stuck well, didn't roll, loved to rev and was quick and light. It's worth less than $4000 in NZ. (AND that's in NZ$)

Rollas hell, that's BF1942 I see there!! :( Nice rig- We did the same in the car with the Datsun 1600s, being SOHC it was easy to mount a dial guage and protractor. Now you need a few cams to try out! You should get nice cam curves on graph paper.

Does anyone know how Triumph 2.5Pi injectors worked? They were a simple mechanical system.

Rob83ke70 was doing the same, he might have done more research. They use the KE55 for motorkhanas/khanacross/hillclimbs and Kylie was keen to step up to a rallysprint, but it hasn't happened yet. I don't know what Aussie has for licences, but you'll no doubt need a cage, an odo, a navigator and a whole lot of things done to the car most of which you will already have. Protecting the brake lines springs to mind.

Brindabella is probalby the biggest rally forum online, they will have all the info you need. http://www.bmsc.com.au/

Ah, a point Ken, but the real driver behind house prices is the Govt, Federal, State and local! (hobbyhorse of mine!) They control the release of land, the taxes on houses and the sale of them, the design & cost of materials used through their standards and the rates charged for "social responsibility adn wealth redistribution" If housing was left purely to the free market it would be dirt cheap, as any landowner could split his land up or build two houses on a piece and sell one, and the houses could be anything you want to build, a plywood shack or a mansion. I wouldn't get into the housing market for a year or two right now, its a bubble that needs about 25% trimming off the top to return to the long-term average, although that depends where you are talking about. The ratio of house price to average wage has gone crazy, so people have to carry far more debt than in the past, which means the Govt have to prop the banks up and constantly stimulate (give worthless pieces of paper called 'money' away!) to keep it all going. Hopefully it won't crash like it has in the USA, or you will owe more on your mortgage than what the house is worth. However you're right in that the massive climb in value will not keep going, so you won't make a fortune buying and selling house every 5years. All that will be paid for by you taxpayers over the next 20years, as well as paying off the higher debts. I'll probably still be paying taxes too, but I wouldn't guarantee being alive in 20years! That will signal the start of cheap housing for the younger generation as the baby-boomers move into retirement homes & die, leaving stack of homes for a decreasing population.

I did Felix, but I figured I should have got it on one of the four houses I bought with NZ money- either the first investment property or the one we live in. ....having poured over a million bucks in the local economy! (Which is a lesson for all you youngsters starting out..)

Get a 5K Its a cheap runaround and the 4K is very anemic unless you modify it up. The extra few hundred cc will make it a handy daily driver and you can always put in something better later on.

OK, so the light goes out almost immediately which means the pump and filter are getting oil up there. The "randomly" is a worry, its not a tappet gap if it comes and goes. Does it stay quiet once the motor is running and its gone quiet?? Can a lifter stick up and click until its lubricated enough to slide easily and allow the tappet gap to occur at the rocker/valve interface?? I wonder if a lifter is sticking 'up' against the pushrod and the tappet gap is occuring between the cam and the lifter until it settles down and slides up and down easily. The only other thing that taps is bad news... a broken ring causes random piston slap I've found.