altezzaclub

There are a couple of different scenarios here- You park the car while you go to the pictures or the pub or even just shopping. You will be back sometime soonish, so the thief has to be quick. You park the car overnight outside on the road, so the thief knows he has got a bit of time. You park the car for a few days while you're on a Uni course or hiking on a trail, so the thief has plenty of time. You can stop the second two by taking the rotor out, so its the first that will lose you your car. Mostly by some kid who wants a ride home or a gang of layabouts who want to go joyriding. My in-laws in South Africa have a steel pipe that fits over the handbrake lever and attaches to the gear lever. You put it in first or third, extend the steel and lock it at that length. Its hardened steel so hard to cut through in a rush, its easier to steal the car next door. I haven't seen one for sale here, although I'd quite like one. They have had the key isolators for a long time over there, you need the key in the ignition to talk to the dashboard to get electrics. The option I'm considering is to get a motorsport battery isolator that you can take the plastic key out of. Not many thieves will carry one of those, and if you have to hunt around under the bonnet to find out where it is all epoxied up, it takes too long.

It would be a pain to have to strip the engine to clean the rust out of the block. Retarded timing will give you all those symptoms- runs hot, runs on when switched off, hard to start...

Look up the build on mine, the first big mod was the convert to manual. Easy to do, and you do need to change the tailshaft end. Fit extractors, a free-flowing exhaust, a cam (a mid-range one) and an aftermarket air filter. That with the manual box will be twice as quick as what you have and hold 100kph all day. If you're really keen fit a bigger carb, Weber or SUs... they will go on a 5K if you fit one later. If you can, get a manual diff, they have a taller ratio so will drop the revs. However you will probably find what we did, that the auto gear is all really really good, and the manual second-hand stuff is thrashed. We stuck with the slightly lower gear in the auto diff as the bearing and brakes were much better.

I like them- There's one sitting here at the wreckers in their 'used car' yard.... Not for sale yet, it needs a lot of TLC and I was tempted, but keep reminding myself I have other projects to finish first. We used to rally against them in the Datsun, the Works-supported privateers had them. Quick, but not as much traction as a Datsun.

..and having been for a drive, if I turn the motor off the unit continues to read figures- lean ones like 17 or 18. I don't know why it starts off reading rich when driving off in the morning, I suppose its because the choke it out.. :P but it stays rich for a minute with the choke pushed back in until the motor wams up some more.

OK, mine are VT Commonwhore ones- I grabbed the plugs and a foot of wire off the loomb as well. The wires change colour going through the plugs so you can tell left-hand bank from RH. These are the colours from one side White becomes black- earth for sensor Brown becomes black- earth for heater Brown becomes brown/pink- 12V in Purple becomes gray- signal to Jaycar unit. I earthed the blacks in separate spots to stop interference. The unit takes a couple of minutes driving before it activates, it just shows 'rich' before then, then suddenly figures appear. If I turn it on without the motor running it shows "r" and all the bars go rich.

Sorry Evan- digging the garden... Hang on-

Does it use water at all?? Do a head gasket check by starting it from cold with the radiator cap off and see if bubbles come out. Check the timing and make sure it is correct. Was it running fine a year ago and this has slowly crept up, or did it start when you did some work on it??

Feel the powwer?? :P .....or just the noise?

Is this an Indian using Google translation for some scam?? Makes no sense at all... Anyway- anyone heard from Twitchy on the project?

Find out what solvent they use for Bunnings $3 cans... it probably won't affect you original paint so you can soften the rubbish coats with a solvent. I'd just go over it with paint stripper and a tungsten scraper & start again...

What sort of difference did the air filter mod give van? Did you just leave the top circle sealing against the filter top??

Nice! A lot of work in there! Does the adjustable panhard make much of a change?

Measure the volume of the combustion chamber and work out the compression ratio if the guy you bought it off wasn't dead sure of it. You might be running a hand-grenade that was built to do a maximum of 15minutes hard driving and all above 3500rpm! We had a couple of those in rallying and went through a string of head gaskets. You just need a bit of plastic sheet and a burrette, pictured in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=42407 If its over 10.5 to 1, certainly over 11 to 1 you might want to run two head gaskets or see what some of the guys on here think.

Dead right- Start looking for the best one you can find Finn, and grab a few mods like carb/extractors off here while you wait to get a good one.

Buying one of these would be one good way- half the work done already... There are always bits coming up for sale on here. Just do as much on the car as you can, the more you learn the better.

Its just part of the whole <"Faaaaark!! This is gonna hurt!" and going completely rigid> thing!

4AGE !!! and I assume... He won't be visiting Aussie for years so you get time to do it! ..and he will be bloody lucky to get to drive it at all after you've finished putting all the work in! :jamie:

Nope- didn't have one from factory and no-one mentioned putting one in... Maybe the age of the 4AGE did it, or the fact it had to be engineered...

Cookies in Sydney- I've just PM'd him for a price on 195/50/R15.

Ah- I have a newfound respect for Toyoda now! Aren't you landing across the runway here?? Did you listen to Air Traffic Control??

Well done that Twink! Love these cheap jobs that work! I've paid just over $300 for mine, including the two mufflers, but I had no access to welding or pipe bending so had to bite the bullet.

White I think, but often body colour works too- Finish assembling it first and take a couple of photos outside in the sun. It will look great on a sunny day!

:jamie:.. Destroyer is right, unless you have a brilliant set of rings and bearings in the 4k, you might as well do up an average 5K and get a better motor. A couple of Kg comes off the flywheel, the 4K only weighs 8kg I think and mine is 6kg now. Changing valves is probably quite expensive, but a cleanup and a skim always works. I opened the ports up to match the Lynx manifold for the SUs, but the Webers work on the stock manifold so its no good getting too carried away. Head gasket- I'd use Toyota. Buy an aftermarket gasket set if they're cheaper (I'm sure they are!) but buy a factory head gasket. Same with oil filters. Cam- if its not a daily go for a mid-range to top end. Get some fun out of it if you don't need to crawl through traffic. Other guys on here will know some good cams, but here is the table I looked at. I picked a lift of 0.4" so I didn't have to chase new valve springs, but Holden 202 springs allow more lift. Look up the manufacturers as these are only the mild-mid range cams. Weber is the cheap option. It will be jetted to suit the chokes in it, but those chokes might not be ideal for your motor. Extractors are still being made, so you can get them new. ...and put a 2" resonator in it! You will be fedup with the noise and drumming after 6months and hating it if you don't. Thermo fan is a nice idea, on my list for 'one day...'

kermit!!! Where have you been??? :jamie: Wheel colour will be important to set the colour off now.