altezzaclub

Half an hour on Google will give you the 'how-to' with lots of pictures on various cars. You will need a 14mm, 12mm spanners (preferably ring/open style if you're going to buy them) a flatblade screwdriver and a set of feeler gauges. These are feeler gauges, (Thickness gauges) get them from Repco or Supercheap etc http://www.beamar.com/Precision_Tools_Gage...th%20texas.html

Check the tappets yourself over the weekend. If a valve has burned into the seat it will have no tappet gap and the valve will be held open, so there will be a loss of compression on that cylinder. If you are lucky you can adjust them to the correct gap and solve the problem completely. Easy to do, and if you haven't done it Tyler, its time to learn! If they are all OK, then do a compression test before you spend money on anything else. That's a sick little engine you have there, a genuine three cylinder!

ooohh.. tricky! So you know there's raw petrol being pumped in there and it still can't go.

So if you pump it quickly a couple of times when it misses, does it cover the miss? The pump jets are obviously working in both throats, but the 2nd jet might still be blocked.

I don't know enough about modern 'rollas tranced, but I have heard that some of the new motors can't be re-bored as the cylinders are lined. It would be worth researching that and then putting a max km limit on whatever you're buying.

Well, by the time you hit secondaries the motor is sucking a lot more fuel out of the bowl, and the maximum would be in 4th. If you're going to empty the fuel bowl it would be having wound it up through the gears to 4th. Unlikely to be pump if it disappeared then came back, if it was a pump or flow problem it should be constant. So it something that moves so it cuts the fuel off then allows it some other time. My ol' man had it in his Vauxhall Cresta- a leaf in the fuel tank that killed it stone dead once every month or two. Stop the car and it floated off the outlet and away you went again. Any shit in the fuel bowl or jets?? Something in the fuel line just above the float valve?

Not necessarily! Toyota factory used to grab heads off the line and flowbench them as they found some stock heads were as good as some factory race car ported ones. They didn't find that the science of porting was that settled! ..and I read a comment the other day about MG-A twincams saying the factory were trying different things as they didn't really understand how the SUs worked or didn't... So you could turn up with a real stunner first time out!

If you're just going to match the ports to the manifold just do it yourself. Buy a curved cone shaped cutter and put it in an electric drill, which is what I did. Then the local head shop did a clean, skim and valves/seats. If you're in for the big port flow job then you'll need a motorsport orientated head place and a fat wallet. This photo is all I did. After I'd cut it I used an 80grit sanding flapper wheel from Bunnings to smooth it up. I figured it wasn't necessary to polish it dead smooth!

What's s/h ?? 'shithouse' popped into my mind when I read it and I thought you meant Gregorys.. Anyway, why search for anything when you can just ask the same question hundreds have before you.. on rollaclub!

I expect so, but the PCV system is designed to clear it out. http://www.aa1car.com/library/pcv.htm

Sounds like it leans out, so either secondary jet blocked or something wrong in there. Unless the pump is not delivering enough fuel to keep the bowl full to the right level. That might be worth checking. How about a bit of shit getting passed up the line when you changed pumps?

Get any headlight bulb with the wiring on it and just cut the wires off. Hit the wreckers or any odd car wiring loomb lying around. All you need is a bulb with two wires attached.

Corey, Rob (rob83ke70) has just taken his SUs off to overhaul them and fitted a Weber. You two should compare notes about them- He's also got a cam fitted and a free-flow exhaust. He said the Weber gave more instant grunt, which is the accelerator pump no doubt, but didn't go as hard as the SUs. I don't know what chokes/jets he's using.

Can you grab a spare bulb and solder a couple of wires onto it? Just make a test light setup, I've had one lying around for years.

yes- what sort of venting system do you have? I'd expect a PCV valve taking air into the inlet manifold, which might be jammed shut as they need cleaning every now and then, and you should have a tube from the air cleaner into the tappet cover to let clean filtered air into the crankcase when the PCV sucks it out, and also to let dirty fumes back into the air cleaner when the PCV valve is shut. The PCV should be shut at high manifold vacuums, so idle and light-throttle cruise, and open at low manifold vac times, like acceleration & going up hills

Got a wiring diagram?? Any on the web? I've only got the KE70 one, which would be similar but any differences would be in important places like relays, so if you can find a KE30 one it would be a great help.

Well, its a puzzle! Why did you change engines? Can you rebuild the old one to drop it back in? Its a hell of a lot of work to strip the new engine to check if it is sludged up or not, I'd hate to do all that work and find out that the reason was something else. Now you mention it, last year we had the rolla overheat going up to northern/inland NSW before I fitted the mods and cleaned out the rust, and there has been no sign of the temp hitting halfway since. Might be because its winter! :)

I'm with Tojo- Set it up with a dial gauge and a circular protractor and measure the lobes. You will get all the cam timing off it and will probably find it in some cam grinders specs. 298deg will be pretty well up there in terms of revs, a bit hard for a daily.

This is all based on the assumption that you got all the air out of the system when you changed engine..... Park it facing uphill, rad cap off, heater on, fill with water, squeeze hoses while running, rev it up and down... Unlikely to be the problem but you never know.

http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/overheati...s_and_cures.htm

There are some radiator flushes out there, but I don't know how good they are. I can't see them cleaning the rust out very well. A bit of Google on the by-pass hose says it is to circulate water around the engine before the thermostat opens and to prevent cavitation in the pump. So its worth keeping it there if you can, but it won't be causing your overheating problem. Have a chat to some radiator guys about it and see if they have any ideas we've missed.

The heater hoses shouldn't be a problem, that is just a loop extension on the water system. If the heater is on they will cool the motor more. However the link up to the thermostat I thought was to get rid of air cavitation in the pump, I'm not sure how important that is, or what the symptom of a fault is with it. What's the fan situation? Silicon centre? Shrouded or not? Electric?? The fan will work best at idle with a shroud on, although the shroud makes the radiator less efficient at speed. The electric fans guys fit sometimes have flat casings that block the airflow through the rad so it only flows through the fan blades, and that is even more extreme than the stock shroud. If the fan is the same you had before and you have a new pump & new radiator then you have better cooling than before, which only leaves the motor itself. Is the tuning OK? Retarded timng leads to heat, as does lean burning, but I'm not sure if they would be enough to heat it up that much. ..and the worst would be lots of shit in the cooling chambers of the block/head. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=37717 Did the guy you got the engine off talk about it running hot?? Those braised up links may just be because of corrosion, or he may have been trying to fix something.

Ah... tell us the embarassing story!! :)

I haven't done a Rolla one but generally they're not hard. Water drained, alty loosened, pulley off, pump off, block cleaned for new gasket & reassemble....

Ah- water pump is a likely culprit, as is the fan if you have changed the fan setup at all. The pump may not be moving enough water at idle due to corrosion of the impellor, so I'd swap those over to start with... The heater 'heat' control opens a valve in the water line to let water circulate, so if you have it on 'cold' no water goes through the heater core. The fact that the heater cools it means your overall system doesn't quite have enough cooling power as its OK the rest of the time. A worse scenario would be rust blocking the block or head water channels in that motor, so it circulates a lot less than your old one, but I'd try the pump first.