altezzaclub

Yes, make the relays do the work instead of burning out the switch- Adapt this to the KE30 http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1856&hl=

Replace the next-highest resistance lead! Use the black lead if that worked OK. If that solves it throw the blue leads away and tell us what brand they were! You could try a spray of body deadener or WD40, which will increase the insulation on the cap, but it shouldn't need that. You would just be treating the symptom, not solving the problem.

A leaf or a piece of plastic floating around in the petrol tank that can block the outlet occasionally...! Does it do it when cold or warm? The filter will only fill up if you hold it up so the bubbles get sucked out, but they don't matter. How about stopping the car the moment it runs rough and checking the fuel level in the carb, and compare that to when its running well. It may be that sone fibre is stuck around the needle & seat in the float bowl adn it runs rich at the times it dies. Better would be an oxygen meter up the exhaust pipe that told you when it was rich and when lean. Do you want to start a "Weber Specs" thread and list what jets and chokes you have, along with cam & exhaust. Slowly we could build up a set of specs for the Weber carb that suits the 4K best, and a 'common troubles' list for them.

haha- yeah I saw it there Cinky, but I didn't bother to ask them about it. It must be in the "too good to wreck" section. I assumed they had it earmarked for someone.

Here's the general digram. The coloured bits are from my 'alterations' I made, just ignore them.

The electric pumps will pump a constant amount of fuel, but the mechanical pumps more as the revs rise and the original one must do the job if it is working correctly. Problems come from damaged diaphrams in them and shit under the valves that prevent them from sealing properly. Ol'Fellas check to see how many L/min it pumps is the best check. The only other way I can think of is to run the car as hard as it will go... Will it haul 160kph?? In that case the fuel supply must be good enough, and the hesitation is somewhere in the electrics.

I did have a customer turn up and say her Rover SD was getting too hot so she thought she'd drive it down, but on the way steam started coming out and eventually it stopped & wouldn't turn over on the starter... I went out to tow it in later and hit the key just in case, and it fired up immediately! No water in it at all, but replacing the leaking hose got it back on the road as though it had never siezed. You never know your luck!

Do you think it is where the second choke opens and it suddenly leans out?? A dyno run would soon sort it, fuel or electrical.

or fit it and put a thermometer in the radiator then let it idle until its hot. As it climbs you can check the guage against the actual temperature, ideally the midpoint would be 80deg or so.

Use the Weber but re-choke it down. We could do with some good info on which choke sizes fit 4Ks best...

""Education at Rollaclub.. cheap but embarrassing"" :laff:

If you're going to do all that you might as well start with a 5K and get the extra 300cc! The crank and rods should be fine. If the crank you use is worn just get it cut 10thou undersize. Lighten the flywheel, rebore, new oil pump, cam cut and a head job. Timing chain replaced for sure, and if the water pump is dodgy do that. Other things that would be worn might be dizzy bushes and the rocker shaft & rockers. A 150,000km 5K might be a better bet for all those odd things wearing out, but it comes with hydralic tappets as stock. Looks like you will be busy! :P

I'd go for that too- contact the manufacturer and send them the photos. It might contain metal salts like potassium that will crystallise out after combustion.

true- that would put me off the idea. You're much better off to find a manual box for the 4AC. ..and if you're determined on a K motor, get a 5K!

Ah- That makes sense. The flat top pistons means there must be about 40cc in the head camber. What happens with a 4K head on the D-dish piston?? It should drop the CR there.

I bought the stock stuff from Mid-State spares locally here in Orange. Main bearings $55 Big ends $40 Adjustable fuel pressure reg $58 Full gasket set $140 Exhaust wrap $57 One-piece manifold gasket $10 The head was skimmed and valves/seats cut for $65 I did that work, bought and fitted twin SUs, extractors, full exhaust, custom airbox and a Crow cam, which totalled $2300. We never touched the rings and cam chain parts. What are you planning on doing dimsim?

Scrape some off and have it analysed at a chemical lab somewhere. Does it look like the corrosion salts that appear in the exhaust sometimes? They grow on a spot where corrosion is eating into aluminium. Although that doesn't coat a valve like you have there!

Lol! "3million years in the future only one man is left alive..." I was driving when there were no Corollas... It must be hard for people now to imagine the roads with only British & American cars on!

Is that the right way round TRD??

Well, there you go Craig- Check that the sensors are sending the correct info to the ECU first. Someone on here will know what voltages they should be putting out at normal operation.

So, a false reading from the O2 sensor in the exhaust could say "the mixture is too lean" and a false reading from the water temp could say "the engine is still cold" and eitehr MAP &/or TPS could say "the throttle is wide open and needs lots of gas" That's even before you consider problems with the ECU. Can you check these sensors with a voltmeter? (having spent a year fixing washing machines and dishwashers that are crammed with sensors and ECUs!)

Ok, that's quite different. So what does Craig have sensors for? Water temp Throttle position? Air temp? MAP for air intake volume O2 sensor in the exhaust. and if one of those is sending the wrong signal then the computer thinks the mix is lean or the engine should be on choke. I'm a carb man and will shit myself the first time the Altezza gives trouble!

Trev how does the MAP sensor work?? The Altezza runs a MAF sensor by sampling the incoming air over a heated wire, and I know that they get diry over time. A 15minute job to clean it often gets rid of several small problems involving rich running or stumbling. Does that happen with a MAP?

How good is the 4K you have?? Rings and bearings side of things?? Is it worth getting a better carb, cam & exhaust so it keeps up with the traffic OK, or do you want more than that? Can you fit the above to your 4K and if you're still short of grunt get a 5K and put everything on that? You'd need to sort the cam so it could run with or w/o hydraulic tappets, or convert the 5k to solid lifters. Still a lot easier and cheaper than dropping in a 4AGE or Nissan.

I doubt it Jono, I'd expect the later ones only. Rob has a KE55 carb w/o one, my KE70 had one.