altezzaclub

Another one has turned up here- http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...;#entry11433563

The problem with the steering wheel ones are that its easy to cut a steering wheel. That handbrake one looks a bit lightweight in the hinge area Evan, but I suppose it makes the car next door easier to steal. Its still the best of the three I think. The Bullock is too model dependent with different pedals, and the red one is just for autos as it holds the stick forward.

haha!! Its very interesting isn't it! I reckon most guys on here could up their performance and/or fuel consumption with one! So- Compared to my SUs... What does it show at idle? (14.7 flashing into lean) What does it show at a constant 60kph? (14.7 jumping up and down about 13.5 to 15.5) What does it show if you left off a fraction? (momentarily rich then leans to 16) What does it show when you lift right off and are on over-run? (leans dow to 18 or 'L') What does it show if you ease the throttle on? (goes from 16 to 14.0)

Where's that from Evan, or what brand is it? That's the sort of thing my father-in-law modified, and I thought about it but reckoned the handbrake would eventually get hammered. Still, might be better than making one-

Scams make up some ridiculous part of Nigeria's overseas earnings... 30 or 40% I think I saw.

Just what you need to meet on a narrow road late at night... is it a semitrailer? is it a road train? No! its a 3ton steam car doing 140mph...!!

Love the dog story!! OK, here's what I've been planning this morning, maybe someone can work out what they will cost to make and how to make them look nice. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...529#entry464350

Ok, after the discussion about stopping a KE getting stolen here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=34210 I ended up thinking about this- You buy a ringbolt 'A' that will fit over the gearlever knob and wrap it with a bit of vinyl or foam to protect the gearlever boot. Then you weld it to a length of square bar like 'B'. ..or you make the ring out of the square bar, all one piece. Then you make a C-shaped section that fits over the square bar, "C", which is welded onto a lazy S piece of bar 'D' You bolt 'D' to the floor by the handbrake under the carpet. It stays there permanently with the C-section pointing to the gearlever. You put the car in reverse, drop the ring over the gearlever, slip the bar into the "C" section & drill through the C-section and the ring's square bar, and put a padlock through the hole. When you want to go somewhere you take off the padlock and toss the ring under the seat. To steal the car you either hacksaw through something or unbolt part 'D' from the floor. So you make it out of high-tensile steel and weld the "S" base to the floor... Will it work?? Can someone make them?

..and how did it fail?? Belonged to an old lady who drove it quietly but some mechanic put the wrong filter in?? ..or owned by a young guy who thrashed the crap out of it until he bent the crank??

I'm with Bamboo.... I can do a K50, or an auto on a good day. I've got weaker as my eye got better at aligning the clutch! Might build up towards a diff lift later on in summer... Banjo first, than Salisbury...

Well, in the end the Admin sets the tone of any forum with his moderators, and forums live or die on those decisions. Rollaclub seems to be doing well, so overall the style is working. Some clubs will just die when speech fashions change in a few years.... The ones I can't read right now! :jamie:

Wow- this is raising the average education level on the server now!

Damm, I missed out on all the fun! Still, give him 10years and he'll be a different boy! Glad he didn't join Altezzaclub mind you!

Any motor engineer can do the motor, grind valves & seats, skim head, cut crank if needed, rebore or hone, lighten flywheel and make sure everything is really clean... All the rest is just assembly, which you can do youself- new bearings, rings, timing chain setup.. Get the cam cut, a set of extractors & maybe a better carb and its a new car! The gearbox... you can do some of it with the help on here, but it would be expensive to get a shop to do a complete overhaul. The diff.... forget it. The LSD style comes from the AE86 and they are all well taken by the AE86DC guys. The option is a two-ton unit from a ute or maybe a van. Sad side of a K series...

Love it!! He's up with the really classic Brit TV comics. The Two Ronnies, Steptoe & Son, Allo Allo, Fawlty Towers.. some great stuff!

I'm thinking of getting one of these, putting the leads on, turning it upside down, fitting a cardboard 'dam' around the outside edge and pouring it full of epoxy! That makes it difficult to undo the leads... Another option is a magnetic reed switch behind the dash that opens a circuit to a relay. You put a magnet on the dash (or where-ever) to make the car live. They have some potent little magnets these days, but the trouble is that you really need to easily kill the battery power, so it needs to be a fat relay taking starting current every day.

Doesn't that only cut off the idle circuit Evan?? So you can unplug that cutoff but drive the car if you don't let it idle...

Timing light would be best, but if not you can do it by hand. First check when it is firing- Take the cap off the dizzy. Turn on the keys to get ignition lights. Rotate the crank pulley with a spanner until the pulley timing mark comes around to the cam cover marks. The dizzy should spark as the 8deg mark reaches the TDC mark. If it is around 10deg before, that is fine. If its retarded it might only spark at 6deg or 4deg. To alter it- Make sure you know which way the dizzy turns. Loosen the clamp bolt so you can just turn it a mm or two. Put the crank pulley on the 8deg mark. Turn the dizzy until the points just open- you will see the spark and probably hear it. Don't lose its original orientation, keep it firing the same cylinder it was. (one or four) If its retarded you should end up with it turned against the direction of rotation a few mm. Good luck-

Great! I thought it would get rid of one bottleneck in the intake system. That would be the cheapest path to extra power ever!

Evan means a standalone unit I think Jono, one that cuts fuel off to the carb completely. So you can run the car for a minute on whatever fuel is in the carb then it dies. You would have it on a secret switch somewhere, so you turn it on after you turn on the ignition.

We bought the whole donor car for $400 and sold it afterwards without a gearbox for $250. So $150 for the conversion plus $20 for the driveshaft. You put the manual front end onto the auto driveshaft. That put a 4speed in there, and later we got a 5speed off here for a tray of beers! The 5speed bolted straight in. You can see the extra bit on the manual pedal box, it fits into the auto OK, but a pain to do.

There are a couple of different scenarios here- You park the car while you go to the pictures or the pub or even just shopping. You will be back sometime soonish, so the thief has to be quick. You park the car overnight outside on the road, so the thief knows he has got a bit of time. You park the car for a few days while you're on a Uni course or hiking on a trail, so the thief has plenty of time. You can stop the second two by taking the rotor out, so its the first that will lose you your car. Mostly by some kid who wants a ride home or a gang of layabouts who want to go joyriding. My in-laws in South Africa have a steel pipe that fits over the handbrake lever and attaches to the gear lever. You put it in first or third, extend the steel and lock it at that length. Its hardened steel so hard to cut through in a rush, its easier to steal the car next door. I haven't seen one for sale here, although I'd quite like one. They have had the key isolators for a long time over there, you need the key in the ignition to talk to the dashboard to get electrics. The option I'm considering is to get a motorsport battery isolator that you can take the plastic key out of. Not many thieves will carry one of those, and if you have to hunt around under the bonnet to find out where it is all epoxied up, it takes too long.

It would be a pain to have to strip the engine to clean the rust out of the block. Retarded timing will give you all those symptoms- runs hot, runs on when switched off, hard to start...

Look up the build on mine, the first big mod was the convert to manual. Easy to do, and you do need to change the tailshaft end. Fit extractors, a free-flowing exhaust, a cam (a mid-range one) and an aftermarket air filter. That with the manual box will be twice as quick as what you have and hold 100kph all day. If you're really keen fit a bigger carb, Weber or SUs... they will go on a 5K if you fit one later. If you can, get a manual diff, they have a taller ratio so will drop the revs. However you will probably find what we did, that the auto gear is all really really good, and the manual second-hand stuff is thrashed. We stuck with the slightly lower gear in the auto diff as the bearing and brakes were much better.

I like them- There's one sitting here at the wreckers in their 'used car' yard.... Not for sale yet, it needs a lot of TLC and I was tempted, but keep reminding myself I have other projects to finish first. We used to rally against them in the Datsun, the Works-supported privateers had them. Quick, but not as much traction as a Datsun.