altezzaclub

Sooo....$10,000 for a fully rebuilt 4Ag-ZE into a KE70 wouldn't be far off? Especially if you can't do all the work yourself. ..and there's never any point in fitting an old engine without a rebore and a crank grind. Its very hard to see the full cost of a project before you start, unless someone else has done it and added it up.

Are you talking about the chrome on the roof gutters?? I haven't got any chrome anywhere else around the doors. I think it will be wreckers yards for any of that trim. The gutter trim is really difficult to work with, but the other stuff is easy enough. Fishing nylon for removng badges stuck on with double-sided tape. I've seen new grilles and bumpers and headlights coming out of the Phillipines, but not body trim.

Ain't that the truth! A guy phoned talkback radio one day and described his time in jail in Malaysia breaking rocks. It was fascinating to hear, especially how he felt with his back killing him, his arms aching, dying of thirst with a pile of broken rocks in front of him, when they just bought in another truckload and dumped it in front of him... He said there was no way in hell he'd ever do anything to earn him jail time again. Corollas tonight, burglaries tomorrow, murder later on... We may have law, but we don't have justice!

Spirit's right- just drive an auto until you have the 4AGE ready... its called "incentive" :laff: You could fit a K40 or K50 manual, but the clutch would be cable and you would need a hydraulic setup for the T50. If you're lucky the pedal box you'd have to fit for the K50 would also do for the T50 once you swapped the clutch pedal over and fitted the hydraulics. If you were out of luck then you'd be stripping the dash out twice to fit manual pedal boxes... Fitting the K series manual isn't too bad, considering what other work you're about to embark on, but for less than say 12months, certainly 6months, just drive an auto... slow as shit, can't go uphill and chews petrol! Details in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727 The pink slip stuff seems to vary tremendously according to where you live. If in doubt put a 4K sticker on top of the cam cover! :P

This bit sounds even more interesting!!

Go for it! Get an idea of what you want the motor to do and what else you're doing on it, then compare the cams from different cam cutters. A cam that's too hot for the carbs/head/exhaust will make it a dog to drive. I got a Crow because hey had more lift at 50thou than the others, although total lift and duration were the same. They just cut the cheeks differently. With a billet you can do a lot.

Billets are the blanks that big cams are cut from. If you cut your existing cam they have to grind away the base circle, so you lift your rocker up to meet it and the nose stays in the same place to give you more valve lift. A billet is bigger all over, so they can cut a higher-lift cam without you raising the rockers, so you keep a better rocker ratio. Go for the billet if you can afford it and want a pretty hot cam. A mild cam (270deg) can be cut from your own one quite easily for about $170 including re-facing all the followers. You'll need to get the followers re-cut either way, as they wear to suit the particular cam they run on. ...and stacks of people still cut Corolla cams on mail-order. I had mine done with Crow. Google is your friend...

I use paint stripper and a tungsten scraper if I have to go back to metal. That's the Linbide type scraper you pull towards yourself, not the paint scrapers you push away. You'll need a couple of sheets each of 180, 220, & 360 sandpaper in 'wet and dry,' the black sandpaper, used with a spot of detergent in the water. After undercoat use 400 & 600 grit. Use a rubbing block, either a solid rubber one or cork. Nowadays you can get really nice foam fittings for drills etc that have grit built in instead of sandpapers. If I was doing it I'd get it all up to undercoat and then get a spraypainting shop to topcoat it. Faster and a better job, and if you have done all the labour it won't be too expensive. Go for the original colour to save all the inside boot/inside doors/underbonnet cheapness or go that silver. The black look is kack and so 90's now.

Yeah, it looks like you set the 0.00 mark using VR3 with 5V, then you need a 1V to set the span control VR2 to the top level 10.0, so the unit reads the full range of the EGO sensor's output, zero to 1.0V. It displays that as 11.8 to 20.6 to one, both of which I've seen on mine. They talk about motors cruising at constant throttle on 19:1 leaness, but I only see that on idle or over-run, and that is with the SUs set to a very lean idle. I was looking for a 0.5V source to see if 14.7 was the reading for half a volt, on the assumption that 14.7 would be the mid-point of the curve, but on reflection that might not be a good assumption to make. Mine was setup before I got it, and I've never fiddled with it. It would be good if you can get yours up and running correctly, the SUs are so variable it drives ne mad. Once its warmned up the readings show every gearchange as a quick drop down into lean, any over-run on a slight downhill or slowing down for an intersection dive down to 17 or 18, with a slightly jerky over-run feeling, and any squeeze of the throttle to go up a slight hill (Orange has NO flat land I've found!) goes into rich figures. Give it a quick boot and it just shows "R". Its never still, although having the headlights on tends to stabilise it. I don't know if that's from a slight voltage drop in the "12V" supply or the effect of the alty loading up the motor. Overall its very hard to keep it between 14.0 and 15.0, but I've got no comparisons to know if that is normal... The SUs vary by the needle shape, the oil in the dashpot piston, the spring strength above the floating piston, and overall on the air flow the motor draws. You might find the Weber is far more constant with a fixed jet, either too rich or too lean right through. FMD1.pdf FMD2.pdf FMD3.pdf FMD4.pdf

I do- I thought it needs a 0.5volt calibration to set the 14.7 mark, and I've wondered a bit how to find a half volt source. I meant to ask my old boss what resistors I should put on a 1.5V battery to give a reliable 0.5V but haven't got around to it. I'm getting finickity about the equality of the two carbs and making my own needles now, and I'm nervous about the accuracy of the figures it shows. Maybe I'm chasing phantoms because the 14.7 is atually 14.0 or 15.0.... anyway, I won't be touching it for a while as the daughter took it out last night and at 2am when she was driving various girls home someone threw up "out the window" at 100kph... as well as anyone drunk enough to spew can find a window... so this morning I found her sprinkling perfume inside the car. I didn't go near eough to check out the smell! I can scan whatever bits of it Evan, if you have an idea of what you need.

Good clean project car! Nomis has a 3SGE and 6speed for sale on here, and a couple of members in Altezzaclub have put them into other Toyotas. If they can make 1350kg of Altezza go they will make a 900kg KE70 fly!

Love it! Especially the last three photos! Real living! You need a metal detector for gold nuggets!

Always happy to be of service.... :wink: Anyway, you could always block all the ports and get it running, then open each one at a time and see what vacuum it pulls and when. Straight manifold vac will be strong at idle and die as you open the throttle, and the ported vacuum will be about zero vac at idle but suck as you open the throttle before dying off. Taz will know!

Just idly reading google... http://www.mirafiori.com/~corey/How-To/Carb.htm Fiat 124 Spyder.. but don't use his link to the jetting page, it has a Google malware alert come up on my computer. Another page had this for the 124- and this might teach you a lot about DD Webers- Also has the engine sizes of the 124s for different eyars. http://files.meetup.com/533614/Artigue_FIAT_124_MM.pdf

noo... that would be heartbreaking! Just as you're taking it home someone smacks it! Still, now you know what will happen when someone plows into the back of it in the "first corner traffic jam." If it is hard to get parts for the 3SGE you can try Nick in Altezzaclub. He's the TRD manager in Auckland, so parts would be cheaper but the freight might kill it. The wheel spacers look stunning!

Find someone who works on racing cars or rally cars... or if not someone who does Fiats/Alfa Romeos from years ago.. A dyno and an exhaust gas analyser is all it needs. On the Datsun they were virtually touching so there was just an adjustable tongue between the throttle shafts. The accelerator went into the outside of the rear carb.

What's the max bore you can hit a 4K with? Will the block take 5K pistons?? The stroke is the same so I assume they share a crank.

No, dizzy can't spin the wrong way, and if you have cyl 1 on compression at TDC and the rotor points to #1 lead you're right. Easy enough to check the timing either with a light or ign on and cap off while you turn by hand and listen for the points spark. I've also seen points set up so they were closing around TDC not opening, on the assumption the rotor spun the other way. Make sure the leads are 1,3,4,2 in the direction the rotor actually turns... So if you have spark at the right time and tappet gaps to close the valves, it really only leaves petrol. You'd need a mirror to see the fuel jet in a sidie, but usually they pump so much fuel around its no problem. Do you have the chokes hooked up?

That nice light blue... pleasant enough and too much trouble to change. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

Can you see fuel being pumped down the carb when you work the accelerator? or crank it over with your hand over the top of the carb and it should suck hard, wet your hand with fuel and fire up... the ultimate choke. ...and you're sure the ignition timing is correct, the dizzy turning the right way and the coil sparking about 10deg BTC. Has it backfired or coughed at all? or just completely dead?

I find 2" to a 2" resonator works with 1&3/4" to the back. I figured a 2" all the way through would be too noisy, but of course its hard to compare unless you want to pay for it twice. A triple-chambered sports muffler sounds great without being noisy.

Print the wiring diagram as big as you can then mark on it what works and what doesn't. Then trace the not-working wires back to the battery. Somewhere in there a wire is broken or a link blown.

Have you tried another battery?? That one might be on it's last legs. Otherwise, as SLW says, go over all the fuses and don't forget the fusible links down on the starter motor. They get crisped by the exhaust manifold and the wires can break inside their plastic sheaths. You might as well get a $10 multimeter from Jaycar to help, you'll need it sooner or later. Here's part of the wiring I drew all over for something I was doing.

Got mine at 15 years old first time- t'was just after they introduced the multi-choice written exams and a drive around the block with a cop. No L-plates in those days. Son failed his once, but every guy does apparently, daughter passed first time. I taught both of them to drive, with a couple of professional lessons to learn what they wanted in the test. Unfortunately the actual process has very little to do with the overall ability to drive, but the L and P plate systems are a good idea. It must be very tempting to fail people to keep the instructors in work... instructor slips the examiner a few $$$ to fail someone...

Probably no-ones ever done it!! Stacks have changed auto to manual, but why on earth would you go the other way? mac, from my KE70 experience you will need an auto radiator, they are different as they contain the oil cooler for the auto box. Also the oil lines, the torque converter and flex plate. The auto has wiring that is extra for the "start-only-in-park" function, and on the KE70 the driveshaft is different. The auto is as slow as a wet week, uses extra petrol and horrible to drive. Don't bother- too much trouble for a step backwards.