altezzaclub

test drive sitting on a beer crate... :laff:

A dyno day showed 5 Altezzas around 122-123KW at the rear wheels. I'm not sure how that scales up to factory bhp. 4 of them had lightweight flywheels, (the most common change) a foam drop-in air filter and a change of rear muffler. They might be 5KW over stock. Those are the changes I've made to mine too, although I've never had it on a dyno.

Cheers Vaughn- The ae71 should be a rocketship!

Just bore your 4K and fit 5K round-dish pistons. Have it sonic tested first. Measure the head volume and calculate the compression ratio before you go skimming the head. That way you keep all the 4K solid pushrod gear. 2" for 1500cc should be fine. I use 2" extractors & 1&3/4" after the resonator on a 4K. You are fitting extractors aren't you?? ...and a hot cam?? and a reworked distributor, or are you wasting your time?? Plenty on google.. Good incentive to find a job. Someone will be happy to buy your half-converted rolla for two loaves of bread and a slab of beers in two months.

..and the big question is.... How do you know if its running lean or rich when you're driving it?? Have you had it on a dyno to check mixture while under load? or tried a fuel mixture meter with a oxy sensor?? Unless you can find out how rich it actually is when driving, the needle might be miles too small and it will chew juice like there's no tomorrow, or it might be miles too big and it will run lean & need a choke to make it go. $50 on a dyno run would tell you a lot, and once you know where it is rich and where lean you can easily get a needle to make it right. If the needle is too big & it is running lean you just sand it down. If not, buy a leaner needle and adjust it. A dyno man would check the timing over the rev range too, making sure there is no detonation. What fuel are you using? It snows in Orange and I've never worried about heating the SUs. 3/4 to full choke for 10seconds in the garage, then half-choke down the road for a minute. When its running properly it should be about 25% up on a stock 5K, judging from the handicaps they use in motor racing.

Well, if you're sticking to the road map, Orange is a good day's drive from Melb, & there is lounge-floor space and a garage here, and we can even zip though the local wrecker if needed! I'd love to catch up & can join for a day trip North.

I'd like to help but I can't understand what you are doing. Its very difficult with English Second Language students and the general lack of grammar these days. Perhaps a wiring diagram would help.

Tune electrics, turn mixture screw in and out to get maximum speed smooth idle, use idle speed screw if needed to reduce idle speed to what you want.

The transmission shouldn't make it surge- My Pintara surges all the time, bloody cheapass early fuel injection I blame! I would assume its a carb problem unless its something tricky with the dizzy changing the timing and making it surge. You can ask the spring makers what rtes they ahve on their lowered coils. They will be a bit stiffer, and you really should get shocks to suit. Then again, you probably don't have shocks to suit the springs in there now!

The Altezza's 3SGE makes 220nm, the Honda varies from 200 to 216 depending on the motor. The power difference is just due to how many revs you pull. The 3SGE has the highest bhp/L of the Toyota NA production motors that you will be able to lay your hands on.

Running hot is a sign or being retarded. Check it one more time... take off the vac advance hose, stick the timing light on the coil lead (so it reads all firings) and take a look at idle. There will be a difference of a few degrees between 1 and 4 (you won't see a mark for 2 & 3) but it should flash between 10 and 12deg. Have someone give it a little accleration and it should move to 20deg advance quickly, and the max should be over 30, which I don't think you'll be able to read. Then while it is idling and you can read the advance with the light, hook the vac advance back up. It shouldn't make a difference at idle. Was it running fine before you started on the timing? or was it playing up back then from something else like a carb air leak?

yep- that's what this means... You need to know which cyl is firing, which direction the rotor turns, and which cyl it is going to fire! So, running like a rocket now Jordy?

What sort of funny?? It should have nothing to do with cut springs or the diff, unless the springs are so low they bounce around the road and bump steer. Check the ball joints and all suspension bushes with a giant screwdriver or a small crowbar. Have a careful look at the front tyres and rub your hand lightly across the tread in both directions. If the two edges of each tread are not the same, especially if you can see that it is feathered, the car needs a wheel alignment. If you're going to change the ride height, do that first and get the Corona LCAs fitted then get an alignment.

Throw out cut springs and replace with stock ones. Cut them one coil off first then half a coil at a time until its getting too stiff. You need more spring metal to make it softer, so longer springs. Exhaust goes over the diff usually. More negative camber comes from Corona lower control arms. Ridiculous negative camber comes from Sigma LCAs. Don't forget the Celica rear sway bar- as good as more front camber!

no- just static time it first before you try starting it. Watch the rockers under the oil filler cap while you turn the crank pulley up to the zero timing mark. You will either have cyl one or four firing. Once you know which it is, turn the crank back 1/4 turn and watch the dizzy shaft as you come back up to zero deg. Make sure it is going to point the rotor at the right plug lead. Put the crank pulley on 10deg BTDC, pull the HT lead out of the coil, turn the key on, then turn the dizzy until the points just open and you hear the spark crack. Dead easy and it will be within a degree or two of where it should be. Then hook it up and try starting it.

Ah- I see the owner in the back seat... The guy from the Phillipines sells all the quad-light front on here I think. Grille and lights & surrounds.

Don't rush it then- have a look around & think about what carb you'd want to use and then wait for a bargain you're happy with while you get it sorted out and on the road. Usual suspects would be the Weber 32/36 or a single DCOE Weber (or twins if you're really made of money) or twin inch & 1/2 SUs. The downdraught 32/36 is the cheapest as it uses a stock manifold, but that's also where it gives some performance away. It may be that it runs really well with the setup on there, you never know...

Could do- running it too lean before its heated up properly. At least you know where to look.

Have you had it over a dyno with an oxy sensor? First you should see if the jetting is giving you the best performance and fuel economy. It will spend 99% of its life running in the bottom 25% of the carb, so mixture is more important than carb size. If it is fine for mixture all through the range and you reckon its bogging down at higher revs then carb is too small. If you've fitted a ground cam & a set of extractors then a better carb will improve it further up the throtle range, and if you can be bothered with the hassle of the fitting and tuning then a Weber or twin SUs will be worth it.

Well, it is such a gigantic technological leap forward from the 4K I assume it does not have a manual choke. If it does, pull it out and stop it stalling... If you are unfortunate enough to have an automatic choke, then give the motor a thorough tune- points, timing, idle speed and mixture checked and correct. Then you need to learn how the auto choke works and adjust the screw that holds the idle up whiile the choke is out. It sounds like it is dropping the idle too fast before it is fully warmed up, but it could be retarded timing having that effect too..

beg. borrow steal or hire.... once you have done the first project you will be in a much better position to know what you need to buy. ...and find a mate who can already weld to teach you how to. I'm sure there's a Rollaclub member in Melb who will give you a hand. Its a skill you never forget and it is amazing how often you use it to make up odd tools and things around the house. I've used gas welding all my life, but I can see that the new electric wire-feed welders do a better job, so start with them.

Looking at my notes it appears they do open up under heat, which surprises me as the hottest thing is the valve stem. Crow calls for a 16thou tappet gap, which becomes about 13thou cold. Too noisy anyway! Anyone want to check that next time they do tappets?? Read them cold then read them hot & see.

Stick up a photo and someone will tell you. I gave my stock carb away & can't remember it.

When you're driving air goes out of the crankcase via the PCV valve in the tappet cover and into the inlet manifold. (Yellow dots) That air is replaced by fresh air going into the crankcase from the airfilter. (Green dots) When you're idling the PCV valve is shut and fumes go out the 'inlet' to the air filter. (green dots) Stupid system isn't it, the inlet and outlet are so close together it doesn't flush the crankcase at all!