altezzaclub

Depends on how you want to run your dizzy. The plate should be manifold vacuum, so when the throttle is shut on idle it is exposed to maximum vacuum. On acceleration it has very litle vac, and on cruise the vac goes up again as the throttle closes and the ignition advances. The carb one normally used is ported vac, the drilling enters the carb throat right under the throttle plate edge and is closed off when the throttle plate is closed over the top of it. So zero vac at idle, very little vac at acceleration and good vac at cruise. With manifold vac you will set the timing to 10deg, and nearly all of that will be vac supplied. So as soon as you open the throttle it collapses the vac and the timing goes back to zero for acceleration and it advances on the mechanical weights.. With ported vac you set the timing to 10deg and none of that is vac supplied, so when you open the throttle the timing stays at 10deg then climbs with the mechanical advance weights. At other throttle times they behave the same. Cars used manifold vac in the old days, then ported vac later on, say 1980s on. Personally, I would mark the pulley out to 50deg with a pair of dividers and nwhite paint, then generate an advance curve of revs V advance every 500rpm up to 3500rpm. That is your starting point. Then swap carbs with no vac advance, check the curve and try each of the two ports ane decide which gives you the best driving. I'd love to see the 3 curves! http://www.rollaclub...594#entry511594 Here are the two layouts, auto box & manual.

let us know how you go- The FMD setup is the only way to really sort them out, it will check the mixture at all parts of the needle. I also have no inlet heating so it takes a little longer to smooth out, especially with mornings around zero deg! The dual choke cable was worth the money, it responds well with a bit of choke. cheers

A fortune... anything out of AE86 has been snapped up and sold several times over in the last 10years, unless its aftermarket stuff off the shelf, in which case companies stopped making it years ago.... hit AE86DC forums for bits. Like this- and- http://www.ae86drivi...o-part-out-sale Those guys have spent their $5000 and still not finished! Expect to spend more than that! Still, it gives one of the best conversions possible if done correctly.

A 'blip'will be controlled by the oil viscosity. Try are few different ones and see, use motor oils & gearbox oil. I use a very thin oil on my inch & 1/4s. Rate of acceleration over a couple of seconds is controlled by the spring and the oil, and certainly the spring controls the piston at higher revs. Do you think it is leaning out too much off idle?? I expect you will have to change the shape of the needles & richen it a touch. Do you have an oxy sensor fitted?? I have a set in the garage with red painted springs, probably the same as yours. There are 3 colours available I think... MG pages somewhere. Have you filmed the action with a webcam on a portable?? I found that taught me more than anything I'd read, I could see the piston moving in response to the throttle (and bumps in the road!) and I could see which needle station was working where.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

I hope EVERYONE who rocks up here saying "I wanna fit a xxxxx motor, what wll it cost?" reads that!!!

Couple of grand- I can get you a good deal through the club but it would be shipped out of Auckland. I think they were around the $1400 mark for the flywheel (half the weight of the stock DM) plus sports pressure plate, clutch plate and release brg. I can ask our TRD man when you're ready

df what flywheel are you going to use?? The most common change in the club is to swap the dual-mass for a TRD single flywheel of about half the weight. The motor has an 'interesting' resonance between 3200-2800 on over-run, it buzzes through the car, so it will be good to see if it happens in another body.

Bringing Altezzas in ran into the emissions catch that Aussie uses to keep grey imports out. To get an Altezza registered you have to pay several thousand dollars for full emissions testing, even though other 3SGEs have passed. Tall motor isn't it! Still, it wll be a rocket when its done.

Come on! Head skim... port and polish... Weber & extractors as it goes back together! 5K pistons!! Isn't there a decent cam lying around?

One every month or two comes up. There are still some amazing one-owner under 100,000km cars turning up. That Adelaide one on Carsales someone posted up last week was gone by the next day. here- 5minutes on Gumtree SA- Cheap but OK http://sa.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-toyota-corolla-ke70-1982-W0QQAdIdZ301835173 The one up on here- http://sa.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-KE70-130-000-genuine-kms-with-books-granny-owner-W0QQAdIdZ311293717 A dual-fuel wagon http://sa.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-KE70-Corolla-Wagon-LPG-4sp-W0QQAdIdZ311211400

lol- not one of mine! Although this is one of my happy altezzaclub members...

$3k is steep I reckon. There have been a couple of overrated examples of different Corollas on here recently for less than that, so unless you really want that particular model you could get a superb KE70 for under $2k. You can use them daily, but don't expect to go fast, or even keep up with the traffic with an auto on the original motor. However that is all easy to fix unless you want to keep it completely original.

We used to just cut a piece out of the steering arms under the struts and re-weld them. I'm sure that would be illegal on the road these days, but it used to work for rallying.

Well, pick a motor- Have you set your mind on the bling side of it to want a screaming 1600cc that does 8500rpm, or would a Holden V6 do the job? I'd say the 1UZ V8 would make the laziest slider, its been done and all the tech details are there, but you won't get it road registered I think. If not then one of the turbo'd Nissan motors would be most common conversion. The Holden V6 would make a great road car for lazy cruising torque and they are as cheap as chips. Another factor would be the age of the motor, as a lot of old motors would need a full rebuild before you fitted them Otherwise you start converting FWD motors into RWD.

My receipt just says ""6001 Spigot Bearing $5"" from Central West Brake & Clutch.

That's just to buy the engines and rebuld them! The conversion will double the cost.. :laff: Seriously, unless you do all the work yourself and can modify/fabricate parts in an engineering shop, $5k won't go anywhere.

Well, if you're admittedly too lazy to do the research and fck around, I can't see you completing the project! Fit a cam, exhaust, & carbs to the 4K. If it needs bearings and a strip then bore it to 80mm & fit flat 5K pistons. When you're bored, fit dished 5K pistons & turbo it. While you run that around look for a 7K, which is still a reasonably straight-forward swap. With a 7K fitted you have everything you need.

The fact that its been done before is a great advantage. There will be all the knowledge of what needs to be done an what mistakes to avoid. In the end they're a production motor & should be reliable in stock trim.

The motor is easier to swap than fixing the body, so make sure the rest of the car is good. If there's no rust and its generally tidy its got to be worth $1500-2k.

Usual story is... find the wire on the tank & pull off, turn on key, check for 12volts at the end of the wire. If no power, check the gauge end. If there is 12V there, short it out to earth. Gauge should go to full. If gauge doesn't move then problem is in the gauge. Pull dash apart and check gauge contacts etc.

+ exactly how you let the clutch up & feed in the power.... Do you pause as it start to grip? Do you let it up in one smooth motion? I've had a clutch in a Sentra for over 200,000km and it still had meat on when I changed the rear crank seal. That Sentra wagon was loaded every day with my workmates and gear, and pulled overloaded trailers occasioally.... other people destroy clutches adnd break axles. The 13second 9,500rpm motor in here ran on stock g'box and diff- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/48083-robbie-butler-79-drag-news/

Pics & gossip!!

I'm afraid so, yours were described as "loose". Most mechanics/fitters seem to think "as tight as possible" is the correct torque. We have a little 6"x6" rubber grip-net in the kitchen for jar lids. Brilliant for this sort of problem.

Rattle gun is best, but if not, try wrapping a strip of rag around the strut shaft several times then anchor it with a screwdriver. If you don't want that shock just grab it with a plumber's wrench. The strut top is meant to have a flat in the shaft hole that should stop it turning. Is your one ripped out?

..and would you know how to set them?? Tell us what you can do and can't do on a car and we will know how to explain it to you. Points- they must have the rubbing block on the tip of the dizzy cam when you set them, and that is their maximum gap. The moment the cam goes past they start to close, and when closed they flow power through the coil to earth. Then when they open on the next cam shoulder power stops flowing and builds up in the coil. So, you will need the motor in the right part of its rotation to set the points, and if you change the gap you will change the timing & that will also need to be reset. Put a spot of grease on the point's rubbing block, otherwise it wears quickly when dry. How was it running over the last week?? Why did it stop starting?