altezzaclub

..and before you ask, all they can do is reduce the vacuum going to the vac advance unit on the dizzy. Google them for details, I did that years ago.

Mine's an '83 and doesn't have that... Ah- because mine was an auto & we converted it! here-

oh- if you find the dizzy seems fine and the problem is still there, don't be afraid to wind up the idle speed as you reduce the advance! That is normal, more advance gives a higher idle speed and vice versa.

Pull the plate with the points on it out and watch the weights underneath as you twist the center shaft. Check the weights move right through from zero advance to max, and that both springs are OK. It might just need some grease in there. You may have a broken spring so it can't return back to its zero points, which you would normally set to 8deg BTDC. I found that if I had a spring that was too weak in there it sat halfway through its range at idle, ie, it couldn't pull the weights back in, so I had a very limited range of advance to work with. The last picture on this page is the inside of the stock KE70 dizzy. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/page__pid__511594#entry511594 If the weights are smooth and working correctly, take off the vac advance, plug the hole to the carb, and try it just with 8dg at idle and mechanical advance only. This all assumes you are using 95octane or 98????

Probably... if the inside wheel picks up over a hump it will have less traction and be easier to spin, which will release the locking pressure on the spiders on that side and allow it to spin. But would you notice? It will still be much better than an open diff. "All" we need is someone to machine the top hat in the picture and source or machine the clutch plates so they fit a KE70 BorgWarner. Completely impossible??

Classic head gasket weeping water into a cylinder. The water condenses on the plug and it won't fire. When it finally fires up it burns the water out and then its fine until the next night when temperatures drop. Get a leak-down test and see.

Opel have lots of brake problems... poor engineering choice of metals it seems. Take the pads out and give them a sand on some 120grit paper just to clean the surface up. Check for stones and grit while you're in there, (around the backing plate too) and put some Discbrake Quiet on the back of them when you put them back in.

maybe carb- If about 80kph is where the 2nd choke adds to the 1st choke it might run lean for a while. Difficult to check with a vac controlled throttle. A run with an oxy sensor to check the mixture would tell you.

Get an oxy sensor and a fuel mixture display or mixture gauge to make your own needle profile. Unless you have access to a free dyno.

true- it carries current while the key is on IGN, but is bypassed when the key goes to START, then carries pulsing current again when the motor is running. Maybe you had the key on while you were checking stuff and the points were closed, so it sat there carrying a full current all the time.. You could always check its resistance with a multimeter, Gregorys doesn't have a value for it but I'll check mine if you post your reading up.

look through here- 1300cc bug-eyed Sprites with single DCOEs http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/dcoepictures.htm Bone stock 1275cc A Series MG engine Choke 33 Aux. Venturi 3.5 Main Jet 155 Emulsion Tube F2 Air Jet 185 Pump 50 Idler Jet 45F9 Ex.Valve 50 Stock 1275cc A Series MG engine Choke 28 Aux. Venturi 3.5 Main Jet 145 Emulsion Tube F15 Air Jet 180 Pump 50 Idler Jet 40F9 Ex.Valve 50

SMALL amount of fuel down the carb..!! Like a thimble-full. Remember liquid fuel is not compressible and if you get a slosh of fuel into a cylinder it will do big damage.. bend a rod, blow the head gasket, break a piston... Aerosol can of engine start stuff is safer.

Your alternator has died... The charge light is telling you that the battery has a negative power flow. Replace or fix the alty, probably brushes or a diode has died.

I haven't heard of anything against it. The 5K dizzy drops straight into the 4K. Go for it-

Dave, what do you all the effect when you roll a wheel along the driveway and if it is upright it goes straight, but if it leans over it rolls in a circle? The more it leans, the tighter the circle radius. That's the effect I meant, the difference in camber caused by one wheel riding up a hump and trying to turn in a circle.

When you're about 60 and all the strains & torn muscles and bruises come back from the numerous rollovers of 10years rallying... like me!

Budget $10,000 to have a mechanic fit a 4AGE into a KE RWD Corolla. Everyone will say they've done it cheaper, but they never count all the costs concerned like a mechanic does! Oh- and in theory it is cheaper to buy a KE with a 4AGE in rather than make it yourself, unless you can do a lot of work. Just check all the posts of "Help my new 4AGE KE won't run" and "Help needed with wiring 4AGE into KE"... nearly everyone struggles to get the package working nicely. So if you put up $5grand to $7grand for a nice 4AGE KE that you can test drive and try first, it is worth it

Mounted back to front?? Mounted the same way as everyone else, or do they only fit one way? You can get problems under hard braking when the fuel runs away from the jets, although if your float level is too high it might be choking from being too rich. Stick it on an oxy sensor, it may be jetted too rich for your motor. PM Evan G, he has a lot of experience with sorting Weber jets.That's a pretty small motor for that carb, so it may be set up for a 1600cc or 2L still.

Well, there are plenty of cars running around with -3deg, however.... Under braking the nose-dive give you even more camber and hits the inner edges of the tyres more. It gives you less tyre contact from the increasing camber. Camber gives the very inner tread a hard time and can strip the inner tread to nothing without touching the outside ones that you see. A problem of Altezzas/IS200, you add more toe-in to spread the wear, so the tyres still wear faster but evenly across the tread. I think more -ve camber gives more bumpsteer, but other factors come into that too. But it obviously works for V8supercars!

..and when you have a charged battery, take the +ve battery wire off and rub it gently on the terminal. Any sparks means current is being drawn, so find out what is using power. Maybe someone wired the boombox up wrong and it slowly flattens the battery over a few days....

Probably the battery is fked.. especially if you've only just bought it, the guy selling it would take out a good battery and put in his worst! Charge the battery overnight or jump from another car or swap the battery & see. If it is still the same on a fully-charged battery, you'll have to lie under the passenger's side and test the wire to the starter motor solenoid with a multi-meter while someone tries to start it. That wire should show 12V when the key is turned to 'start'. Check the engine earth visually, see if there is a loose cable, and then measure resistance between the motor and the battery negative. Should be under 10ohms. If you have 12V to the solenoid and the earth is good, the problem is inside the starter motor. Pull it out and strip it.

http://autospeed.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=0383&P=1

Just glue the sucker! A slop of araldite on the sliding pins would fix them in place. If you're keen, replace the springs with heavier ones so it advances slower and at higher revs. Set it for mid-range and let it go up 10deg at the top end, at least you give it some extra time to burn.

So its $110 per car??

Does that mean it doesn't crank over like YOU think it should, or it cranks over slowly, or it doesn't crank over at all?? Do the dash lights go out or go dim when you crank it?