altezzaclub

If you're on L or P plates, yes, its illegal end of story. Any modification for more performance is illegal. If you have a full license, I don't know if that motor in that car is illegal, but certainly if legal it will need to be engineered, and you will need to chat to the guy who is going to charge you to certify it about what he wants done. It won't be cheap, I'm talking $thousands not $hundreds. I can tell....

They go over 4000rpm?? You sure? Always sound like tractors to me! :laff: So just as quick as the S15 and a lot more practical hey?

A very good question! Why not buy a stock KE30 and do that up? You might also try to be a little more specific in you topic titles too... "please help" is not very informative and plenty of people (like me) usually won't bother to open it for some kid on school holidays who has no clue on how a forum operates and usually asks exactly the same dumb question asked a thousand times before... get my drift?

That's a lot of work in the body already. What brake setup are you going to run?? Adjustable bias?? Hydraulic handbrake?

I'm not familiar with the 4AC, but are there fusible links in there that you haven't checked? I think you will end up with a multimeter checking the whole motor circuit. this is 4K...

More commonly, the needle and seat is not sealing, rather than float level adjustment.

Intake 0.2mm exhaust 0.3mm hot. Two ways of doing it, and they lead to different results. Get a cylinder on firing TDC and set both tappets, or use the rule of nine where you get one valve on max open and set the corresponding (9-minus-that-valve) which will be on max gap. So get valve 3 on max open and set valve 6. Rule of 9 sets them on the heel of the cam, the maximum gap. TDC sets them slightly off on both valves, so the gap is smaller than the max. Set them one way and check them the other.

Of course it feels exactly the same! Worn pads work just as well as newer pads unless you work them hard enough to overheat them. Last test I got the mech turned up with a brake test graph for the car stapled to the certificate and I'd stood there all the time so I know damm well he never even started the motor, never mind drove it! Anyone know what the % actually is?? The amount of pad left?? The braking efficiency on a rolling road??

This is an essay about economics and why the current Govt setup is doomed to failure, time and time again in a boom-bust cycle. It starts off- ""Imagine you are in command of the state................Predictably, you will use your position to enrich yourself at other people's expense."" and explains how raising taxes endlessly will run you into resistance from the productive sector, and then borrowing from banks to cover your expenses makes it worse as you have to pay them interest. So it suggests you get into bankng yourself, set up a central bank and print your own money. Even better, create credit out of thin air and loan THAT to commercial banks, so now THEY pay YOU interest. Finally it expains how only the first (rich) people who get their hands on this newly-created money get any benefit from it, and it is at the expense of everyone else as it causes the inevitable boom and bust. We have billions of dollars in Aussie to get rid of, money that was borowed from thin air with no real backing from the last bust in the 1980s until now. (America has trillions to delete) I'm afraid you youngsters are expected to pay for it all, earning money that then becomes worthless as you hold it in your hand... Economics is a boring dry subject in theory, but vital in understanding how Govts rort you! http://mises.org/daily/5749/Why-the-State-Demands-Control-of-Money

Its the endless understeer!

here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__60

Why would you want discs on the rear? The only advantage they have is that they are easier to change pads on. The disadvantage they have is the pathetic handbrake system. I wouldn't rate them a big deal. To change ratio you replace the crownwheel & pinion, not the whole assembly. Do you know how the LSDs work?? and their differences to a locked diff?? What you do with the car will be important, whether its a road car or not, whether you want it to handle corners or not... Personally, the number one thing would be getting an LSD, followed by the right ratio if you're going to do any sports driving. A car setup for hillclimbs is not one you would want to go on holiday in!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5XX9LX2es4&feature=related We used to have humourous songs when I wuz young...

I'm running Bridgestone at the back & Falkens at the front, they seem well-balanced. All about $80 new.

Definitely not! You could get Weber DCOE side-draughts for that much and they will blitz the Asian for performance.

lol! just what you need with summer coming up! Well done.

"You can make babies on those seats...." <---------Wife's comment! A wonderful machine, the epitome of the era! Enjoy every moment of it!

There are 4 or 5 big cam shops that cut cams for 'K' series, and they all have lists like this-. They usually label them "fast road" or "Sports" or "Road track" etc, but I didn't list the comments. These are the 'less-wild' cams that I picked from, as I wasn't planning on going over 6000rpm really & we live at high altitude. If you go over 0.4" lift you will need different valve springs (Holden 202) and don't forget most guys pick a cam that is wilder than they need... hence Kickn's comment about being a pig to drive. You need to know what you plan to do with the car, as driving in traffic every day with a wild cam really is not pleasant for the once a month you get to wind it out and really use it. $140 is about right, you will need to get the followers ground as well so they wear in with the new cam, and that will take it up to the $170odd I paid to Crow.

There was an Englishman, Irishman and South African in a bar . . . . . . In the departure lounge Sent to me from a fellow-Kiwi...

Have you tried what Dave said, hosing the heater out?? The hose temperatures you have are correct, but that could be from either the heater dumping the heat into the car to cool the water down, or the heater being full of sludge or the control valve jammed almost closed, so the water hardly circulates. Check that the valve moves right in and right out, and hose the core out if you haven't.

Shit yes!! The utes were drifting around it, at 250kph+ I assume, and Lowndes made a stunning move overtaking through there with the car sliding and squirming! Was it MacConville who was leaned on into the grass down to the corner, and went across the track? You could suddenly see the speed he was still carrying while everyone braking had scrubbed off 100kph.

The only car I can't get running atm is the Altezza, over $40,000 worth when I bought it! Bloody computer-driven stuff! Nowdays I'm so poor I can't afford a grand or two to get someone to sort it out and replace some expensive sensor or CPU. No problems with the KE70 or the R31 Pintara we were given for free because the lady couldn''t sell it!

I'd get an aerosol can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner & make sure it has a little extension hose on. Use that to blow through all the carb drillings. Following up immediately with an air compressor would be good. Those 'jets' are the plastic cylinders. Sometimes they delay the onset of vacuum, or limit it, or are one-way valves, I've never worried about what those ones do. Might not pay to get them in backwards though! Good luck!

WTF ! You're right! hahaha! I wondered where half you guys suddenly got long words from! :laff:

overrated