altezzaclub

Of course it feels exactly the same! Worn pads work just as well as newer pads unless you work them hard enough to overheat them. Last test I got the mech turned up with a brake test graph for the car stapled to the certificate and I'd stood there all the time so I know damm well he never even started the motor, never mind drove it! Anyone know what the % actually is?? The amount of pad left?? The braking efficiency on a rolling road??

This is an essay about economics and why the current Govt setup is doomed to failure, time and time again in a boom-bust cycle. It starts off- ""Imagine you are in command of the state................Predictably, you will use your position to enrich yourself at other people's expense."" and explains how raising taxes endlessly will run you into resistance from the productive sector, and then borrowing from banks to cover your expenses makes it worse as you have to pay them interest. So it suggests you get into bankng yourself, set up a central bank and print your own money. Even better, create credit out of thin air and loan THAT to commercial banks, so now THEY pay YOU interest. Finally it expains how only the first (rich) people who get their hands on this newly-created money get any benefit from it, and it is at the expense of everyone else as it causes the inevitable boom and bust. We have billions of dollars in Aussie to get rid of, money that was borowed from thin air with no real backing from the last bust in the 1980s until now. (America has trillions to delete) I'm afraid you youngsters are expected to pay for it all, earning money that then becomes worthless as you hold it in your hand... Economics is a boring dry subject in theory, but vital in understanding how Govts rort you! http://mises.org/daily/5749/Why-the-State-Demands-Control-of-Money

Its the endless understeer!

here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__60

Why would you want discs on the rear? The only advantage they have is that they are easier to change pads on. The disadvantage they have is the pathetic handbrake system. I wouldn't rate them a big deal. To change ratio you replace the crownwheel & pinion, not the whole assembly. Do you know how the LSDs work?? and their differences to a locked diff?? What you do with the car will be important, whether its a road car or not, whether you want it to handle corners or not... Personally, the number one thing would be getting an LSD, followed by the right ratio if you're going to do any sports driving. A car setup for hillclimbs is not one you would want to go on holiday in!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5XX9LX2es4&feature=related We used to have humourous songs when I wuz young...

I'm running Bridgestone at the back & Falkens at the front, they seem well-balanced. All about $80 new.

Definitely not! You could get Weber DCOE side-draughts for that much and they will blitz the Asian for performance.

lol! just what you need with summer coming up! Well done.

"You can make babies on those seats...." <---------Wife's comment! A wonderful machine, the epitome of the era! Enjoy every moment of it!

There are 4 or 5 big cam shops that cut cams for 'K' series, and they all have lists like this-. They usually label them "fast road" or "Sports" or "Road track" etc, but I didn't list the comments. These are the 'less-wild' cams that I picked from, as I wasn't planning on going over 6000rpm really & we live at high altitude. If you go over 0.4" lift you will need different valve springs (Holden 202) and don't forget most guys pick a cam that is wilder than they need... hence Kickn's comment about being a pig to drive. You need to know what you plan to do with the car, as driving in traffic every day with a wild cam really is not pleasant for the once a month you get to wind it out and really use it. $140 is about right, you will need to get the followers ground as well so they wear in with the new cam, and that will take it up to the $170odd I paid to Crow.

There was an Englishman, Irishman and South African in a bar . . . . . . In the departure lounge Sent to me from a fellow-Kiwi...

Have you tried what Dave said, hosing the heater out?? The hose temperatures you have are correct, but that could be from either the heater dumping the heat into the car to cool the water down, or the heater being full of sludge or the control valve jammed almost closed, so the water hardly circulates. Check that the valve moves right in and right out, and hose the core out if you haven't.

Shit yes!! The utes were drifting around it, at 250kph+ I assume, and Lowndes made a stunning move overtaking through there with the car sliding and squirming! Was it MacConville who was leaned on into the grass down to the corner, and went across the track? You could suddenly see the speed he was still carrying while everyone braking had scrubbed off 100kph.

The only car I can't get running atm is the Altezza, over $40,000 worth when I bought it! Bloody computer-driven stuff! Nowdays I'm so poor I can't afford a grand or two to get someone to sort it out and replace some expensive sensor or CPU. No problems with the KE70 or the R31 Pintara we were given for free because the lady couldn''t sell it!

I'd get an aerosol can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner & make sure it has a little extension hose on. Use that to blow through all the carb drillings. Following up immediately with an air compressor would be good. Those 'jets' are the plastic cylinders. Sometimes they delay the onset of vacuum, or limit it, or are one-way valves, I've never worried about what those ones do. Might not pay to get them in backwards though! Good luck!

WTF ! You're right! hahaha! I wondered where half you guys suddenly got long words from! :laff:

overrated

Excellent, so you can take the head to head gasket seal out of the equation. So it looks like a corrosion problem, either head or block, unless you find some bit of dirt or distortion somewhere when you take it off. Ask the engineers if they pressure tested it or checked it for flat before they skimmed it. maybe the head was fine and it has been a corrosion problem all along.

Philbeys right, and on mine the green hose goes into the water pump on the suction side along with the bottom rad hose. Yours is older. That blanked-off brass fitting above it had a temp controlled vacuum valve fitted, it controlled some of the emissions gear. Where is your other (red) hose connected, because there is no pressure difference to pump water just across the thermostat housing. The pump is sucking water in via the bottom rad hose & the green pipe, then pumping into the motor behind itself, and pushing the water up to the thermostat housing so it can go to the radiator & circulate. Hence the pressure is higher at the red hose than the green hose.

Did you have it skimmed before you put that gasket on? Get it clean, really really clean without scraping up the surface, and put a clean straight metal edge down it like a steel ruler. If you can fit a feeler gauge under it in the middle then it is warped. No it doesn't need sealant, although some people do. It just needs a clean straight head and a clean block top. If the white emulsion is only in the tappet cover then it could just be condensation. Clean it out and just run the car to see what happens. If the white emulsion is right through the oil its a leak of water into the oil somewhere.

Water will come out of both engine-side hoses, for when the engine is running one hose is slightly pressurised and one not. It sounds like you're not getting flow through those pipes, maybe the water pump is not up to much.You can see the red dotted hose is the hot side off the higher pressure path, and the green dotted one is entering the pump on the low pressure side along with the bottom rad hose. Is your setup like that?

Find a wheel alignment place that does race or rally cars as well as general stuff, and tell them the problems you have. You will probably find the train-tracking is just a poor alignment. I have no faith at all in the Mag&Turbo type chain stores for a good alignment, they can only put the computer in the green zone and that's it. Do you have any specs on the cam?

Why did you replace the gasket, and did you get the head skimmed??? BIG questions! How did you clean up the block and head mating surfaces?? I haven't heard of the heads cracking, someone else may have. Somehow it is leaking from the water jackets into the sump, which is a path of low pressure. No oil in the radiator?? That is the high pressure path. Starts OK in the morning, no backfires between the cylinders?? That would be HG burn between the cyls If the head gasket shows no other symptom, the option is block corrosion, a pinhole rusted through from the water jackets into the sump.

OK its not like I thought, its all under pressure. Now, the lines marked in green are manifold vac, so strong vac at idle and diminishing until they are under pressure at boost. That wll be your brake booster and somehow they are using it as the PCV I am sure. The small lines marked with yellow are, I expect, ported vac, so they get closed off when the throttle plate closes. So no vac at idle, vac just off idle when they share the manifold vac, and vac diminishes until they go positive under boost. It just depends exactly where they are drilled into the throttle body, for if they are downstream of the throttle plate but still in the venturi they will have vac depending on airflow, zero at idle and more and more as airflow increases until they go on boost. I don't know what they do for the charcoal canister, you only want the line to suck on it or you will blow the fuel tank up. You'll have to look at a car that had a 3T-GTE in it, I assume they used a one-way flow valve in it.. They must have an interesting line on the dizzy there too, as it will give you vac advance low down then retard under boost. Shame I'm not in Perth, I'd love to take a look. Yo will only sort it when you have it running and put a vac gauge on it.