altezzaclub

Try that again, they should be closer than that. Chase the headgasket with a leakdown test. Just hook a compressor up to a screw-in compression gauge tube and pump 120psi down each cyl one by one at TDC. You might have it leaking between cylinders, but not into the water jackets or oil, so it fires a wrong cylinder occasionally and doesn't have compression for power. Tappets gaps OK, the same as when you set them?? I found out why my Altezza won't start, after 4months of chasing all sort of possibilities, it has carbon lumps sitting on the exhaust valve seals & seats, so no compression... Lousy fuel the last time it filled up is the theory... $1000 if I do all the labour!

Well, what you have drawn there should make it rev better- the later the inlet closes the higher it needs to rev to get the cylinder filled. As you said, 5deg is neither here nor there really in a road car, you can't adjust it a 1/4 tooth. Must be something else! Electrical insulation breakdown under load or fuel not right as the throttle opens... Can't go wrong with XXXX gold! :laff:

& your CE701 is probably from Camshaft Engineering in Perth-

Why would any stock cam give better performance in a 4K?? Stock cams are all designed to give easy driving and good fuel efficiency, and any differences are usually in the "GT" of a car model. eg, the SSS Datsun 1600 had a slightly hotter cam than the deluxe. So if you can think of a car that uses a 4K motor and is a sports or GT model compared to the KE70, try that cam. However I'm pretty well sure that almost any grind from a cam grinder will be better! Just get your cam re-ground.

Make sure it has a thermostat then start it up one morning without the radiator cap on and the rad fill. Let it idle for 10 or 15min & if the HG is leaking you will get the water flowing out of the rad all over your feet, as the bubble push it around backwards because they can't get past the t'stat. Once the t'stat opens all is fine as the gas bubbles leak out via the overflow bottle. A six will run much smoother with a leaking gasket than a 4cyl. Look for a lazy cyl by pulling off the plug leads one by one or hook a compressor up and do a leak-down test of each cyl.

No rush.. the loose bolts will drop out or the UJ collapse and when the driveshaft drops out the car could pole-vault over it. Should be an exciting ride!

Just bore it out to fit standard size 5K pistons, get an instant 1500cc! Have it sonic measured first so they can 'move' the bores to maximise the wall thickness. Worked here- http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/9525-Darrens-KE70-wagon

Reverse- reverse gear or bearing, diff... Heavy acceleration- g'box brgs, diff.. Cornering- ummm... suspension rubbing? Not related to gearbox at all?? I suppose it loads the transmission from clutch to wheel bearings as you go around corners. Tricky!

All the Datsun 1600 saloons were IRS, a very similar setup to the BMWs. They don't keep camber at all and dance down a rally road. However they do have better traction than a beam rear end. The 180B replacements came out with IRS and beam rear ends. Are you sure you wouldn't settle for a 5-link, like the KE70. .. or if you could find an old Alfa Gulia at the wreckers, they were pretty skinny.

Do you think it can be assembled like that Slo? or will the raised face of the clutch plate not sit against the flywheel at all?? I've never tried it to see.

Don't forget to put a touch of grease on the rubbing block. If it gets dry it wears very quickly and the points close up.

When?? related to pushing the clutch down?? accelerating?? Coasting??

lol !! :laff: Education continues!

Ah, OK that is different. Dead right, and that would push exhaust gases up the intake as the piston covered that last 45deg. So, Bluetack a circular protractor onto the crank pulley and watch the valves.

Ouch! Ouch! Ouch! Arrgh! Ouch!.... Yup, that one works! :laff:

4wheel steering? I had a turbo'd one and that made it very nimble. A great luxury sports saloon in its day.

Don't forget a wheel alignment before you get back into it!

I don't think so. What is a tooth worth in degrees?? You should have the inlet closing 65deg after BDC shouldn't you, and it remains closed as the piston compresses to TDC and fires, then the exhaust opens 65deg after TDC. So there's not much chance of flames shooting back up the carb if its a tooth out. What about tappet gap?? Does it read the same as you set it if you check it a day later? If there was a problem in there it might hold the inlet valves open to let it backfire. Not very likely.... Head gasket?? Flashing between two cylinders is the most likely thing I can think of. Try a leakdown test- Hook a compressor up to a compression gauge fitting and pressurise one cylinder at a time. We did one on my Altezza a few weeks back and it showed leaking exhaust valves straight away.

Well, if you have spark then fuel is the next suspect. Can you run an injector into a can and see if you get fuel through?

Float level being too high would make fuel flow out the jets without any suction demand. A hair at the needle & seat face may hold the needle open sometimes and not others, so it intermittently floods.

1- Have you had the car running fine before, and this problem developed- 2- or have you had this problem since you assembled the motor?? 3- Does it backfire up the carb?? That would take a fire in the inlet manifold, which means an inlet valve leaking or being held open by the rocker. or opening into a burning cylinder. 4- .or is it just not firing a cylinder every now and then? So the spark isn't getting to the cylinder or the mixture is too lean to ignite??

Lets us know what your research comes up with. Zinc would be the first start, aluminium won't work, and you will know a lot about electrode potentials by the time you have finished.

Sort the thermostat and if that is fine, the radiator is fine, (fins all good and not blocked) then look at the water pump.- any chance the pump's vanes are corroded away?? Put an ohm-meter over the sensor at cold and at hot temps and check the resistance against the stock figures. Then get a thermometer & check that the gauge is reading correctly.

OK, its often really hard to tell the difference between too much fuel and too little. So a bit of shit comes along the fuel line and sits in the tiny gap between the needle & the seat, stopping the fuel from being shut off and over-filling the bowl. It runs really rich, coughs & splutters and only goes when the revs get up. Then maybe it gets past the needle and into the bowl, and gets sucked into a jet, say the idle jet, seeing its the smallest, and it half-blocks that. Then the car is too lean, and coughs & splutters and hates to go. Same effect as an air leak through a loose bolt. If the choke improves it by making it richer, then its too lean. So it would have that effect cruising along at 50 or 60kph. If the choke improves it by raising the idle speed, on half-choke, it could be rich or lean, but pulling the choke out that little bit more to close the flap over and it will die if its already too rich. Not much help, but this problem is one where you need to be there, not on the net...

Is it the factory dizzy for that motor?? Have you checked the weights in the bottom of the dizzy? Maybe they are gummed up and not advancing it. You could mark the crank pulley with white ink out to 40deg and then make a timing graph of advance V revs every 500rpm up to 3500. That will give you the advance curve you have and there should be a factory one on the net somewhere. The electronic dizzy I bought for the 4K was as flat as a pancake, it had an advance curve for a van or a forkhoist... Here's how I sorted it- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45