altezzaclub

You measure the volume of the combustion chamber with a sheet of plastic over it and a burette or pipette full of turps. The 4K is about 31cc. Then you add up the combustion chamber+head gasket(5cc or so)+piston dish volume+cylinder volume. That is your total volume when the inlet valve is open. Under compression the volume is that minus the cylinder volume, and the compression ratio is the ratio of the two. You need a target compression ratio you want, say 10:1, and then measure the area of the combustion chamber with a piece of graph paper. That will let you work out how much to shave off to get the CR you want. Pictures here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

When you have the box out, turn the input shaft while someone holds the driveshaft and see if Evan is correct. I wouldn't be surprised if he is... no teeth stripped, but a shaft snapped clean in half. Ah no- You have the problem there if they didn't flatten out. A new plate can't be much, the whole kit is only $70, clutch plate, pressure plate and release brg.

Usea cloth to put a good layer of wax on, just like waxing a car, then polish it off for a shiny slippery surface. Then a couple of coats of PVA with a brush. It will pull back a little due to the wax, but another coat should cover it. It forms a really thin skin when dry.

Get the KE70, for exactly the reasons you said! You will at least be mobile & you can spend a year evaluating what's around and what is worth restoring. You will find some great and unusual Jap models that never made it to Aussie.

KE70 conversion-

This one Evan?

James, did the guy you bought the turbo gear off have it running on a 4K?? He would know what it needs. if not, PM a couple of guys like mhmills who have fitted turbos/blowers from scratch and ask them if any systems needed upgrading. The usual story is that 7-10psi can run on stock gear.

Not offhand I'm afraid. Stick a wanted post up and see if anyone has seen one for sale.

Usually 4th in an old manual is 1:1, as that give the most efficient power transmission. Then they put overdrive 5th gears on them, and now none of the gears are liable to be 1:1. You should change diff ratio, which will lift up all gears. You won't notice the higher low gear unless you tow a boat...

Ask one- Would you really believe a quote you got over the internet from someone who has never seen the job and won't be doing it.... If you don't have a mate who is a panelbeater you can expect to pay around the $500 mark. That said, I had 3/4 of a car sprayed for $800, so it depends on your bargaining skill & how much of the work you do yourself.

Anywhere from 10deg to 18 has worked, depending on the advance curve. 10-12 seems best, but we are 2500ft up and can run more advance than sea level. That's on 95octane with a home-developed advance curve.

Rob83ke70 has a shell in his backyard here in Orange that he will probably 'sell' for beers. It was a complete car we have been swiping bits off for a while now. I'll tell him to look at this post.

4AGE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vu8ahJEsnpw

Aww.. shame. I suppose it was a really slow-speed roll and you could sit there thinking "Oh no! Don't go over.. don't go right over.." :laff: So, its a real khanacar now, time for a Porta-power to push the pillar up again and a bit of bog.

$1500 will go nowhere if you want to do it properly- any motor you get will need a strip down and a freshen up, probably a hone, new rings, maybe bearings, gasket set... Port head, skim head, cut valves and seats, new timing chain & tensioners, grind cam & followers, extractors, new exhaust... That's $2000 gone already...

Side-draught carbs will do better if you really are after every bit of cheapish power. A single DCOE or a pair of them, twin SUs, Dellortos... Don't forget to lighten the flywheel and get the whole thing balanced. How big in bore do you want to go? You could hunt down some piston that will make it 1450cc or anything out to the 5K 1500cc. The head you will need to measure, both chamber volumes and area, to calculate how much to skim off to get your desired compression. Same as I did, but you're after more grunt I think. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

..and it may be difficult to curve. Actually, I would assume it won't be legal as manufacturers make the windscreen a stressed member of the shell. Once you break it out the roof and pillars get very floppy. We had a polycarb rear window and fixed the roof to the cage to hold it in place.

Lol!! Don't leave it connected, it will drain the battery... So, you've lost the feed from the key, it sholdn't be too hard to trace.

Todays SMH- http://smh.drive.com.au/motor-news/land-of-the-rising-fun-20111201-1o8x7.html

Wreckers... several here in Orange, dunno where you are...

take the fan belt off & start it.... just in case its a dry bearing in the alty or water pump.

..and fit a 10mm aluminium plate sump guard, radiator crossmember back to the main crossmember to protect the sump.

Don't bog it- I'd drill the spotwelds out and peel it off with a chisel, then replace it with a good one from a wrecker that you've done the same with. You can drill a few extra holes in the replacement and hit all the holes with your welder.

As far as I know the motor is straight out of the Subaru factory, so Subby do the mechanicas and Toyota do the body. So... will it turbo like the WRX from the Impreza?

There's your problem. It is permanently shut, so no fuel goes through the idle circuit. Take it out and test it with a 12V wire. I suppose there are still new ones available, although plenty of guys on here must have one lying around