There's your problem. It is permanently shut, so no fuel goes through the idle circuit. Take it out and test it with a 12V wire.
I suppose there are still new ones available, although plenty of guys on here must have one lying around
What is the front suspension/crossmember design like from the point of flexing??
When you get stiffer suspension you might do well to get underbody braces to hold it all in place.
I grabbed them from one of the KE70s at the wreckers last month for another Rollaclub member. They had cars with retractable and non-retractable there, and I didn't notice any difference in the body.
Take a hunt around your local wrecker.
Basically its slightly longer than a KE70, lower of course, MUCH wider and weighs 250kg more!
Still, 146KW is only 10 less than an Altezza, so much quicker than a KE70, about the same as the Altezza, but is it slower than a proper AE86??
Yes, think of how the castor control arms will flex and wave about when you're giving it a hard time if you have a rusted, twisting chassis crossmember.
(also any trees or power poles might not stop coming through the engine bay as quickly as they should!)
That's on a stock carb I assume... I wouldn't worry about it being higher than normal, maybe the weather was a low rpessure that day! Its almost twice what I saw when I was playing with a vac gauge on the SUs. What is the mixture like? The only downside to high vac that I can think of would be if it sucked too much fuel through at idle.
Grab a nylon stocking/pantihose and pull off the top rad hose. Put it over the end of the radiator intake and fix the hose back on. Check it in a few days.
My block was full of pieces of rust scale.
http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/
Not easily... Locked diffs are hopeless anyway, if you're going to spend money on another diff get something that will take an LSD. Sadly AE86 gear is the answer and EVERYONE wants it.
Easy- cam, carbs, head job, exhaust... all easy to find and not expensive.
Nah- Datsun 1200 is much nicer than a 4K, dammed silly tilted-over motor with everything hidden under it.
All the FWDs are cramped under the bonnet, that was a major selling point for the factories. The whole drivetrain could be assembled independently and fitted to the body as one big unit, where it took up a lot less of the car volume than the RWD did.
I think the Seca models are the nicest looking, although I'm not sure what the big open hatchback hole in the body does for torsional strength.
This is why you build it... A home-machined .50cal BMG rifle that you'll never go hunting with or shooting down helicopters, or blowing up oil depots, or.... using at a rifle range.
Something a mate built from scratch including the barrel, not because he had a use for it, but because he could! ..and yes, the recoil is irresistible, the blast stunning and the noise unbelievable!
I'm with him! Modern cars are in the 1300-1500Kg range and you're already 300kg lighter than that. Panels like the guards and bonnet are already thin and flimsy, as one run into a tree will tell you.
Nope- Somewhere is a photo of both the insides I posted up, they're completely different.
Either drop the electronic one into a dizzy specialist and pay for a new set of springs, or re-spring it yourself.
Topic on it here-
http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45
lol! thankyou Evan!
"Flat top" or "O-dish" 5K pistons have about a 5cc dish in them. Your stock 4K head combustion chamber is about 31cc, gasket about 7.5cc. Motor is 80x73 now isn't it, = 367cc.
So you have (367+7.5+5+31) going into (5+7.5+31) or 410.5:43.5 or 9.4:1. Not high because the dish in the piston is 15% of the head volume.
A real flat top piston would be (367+7.5+31) into (31+7.5) or 405.5:38.5 = 10.5 to one!
Measure a piston dish for volume and make sure!
Yes- I did one of the Datsun 1600 rally cars years back, can't remember why, but it never gave any trouble. (apart from rain falling in through the open door!)
Depends how much of a hard time you give it.. Picture going into a corner hard and the outside front strut is bending.... hitting potholes and the stub axles are flexing...
Take a look each weekend for a month and see if there are clean areas on the tyre or the strut.
Were those rims on the car, or are they illegal to use and the guy took them off to sell it??
Nice for the price! We paid $1800 for ours with 110,000km on, an auto that we converted.
I reckon nice ones are worth $1500-$2000, and if someone can find one for $1000 its a bargain.
I have both allen keys and also the small bits that fit into a hollow screwdriver or 8mm socket. Often the small bits are better quality, so they might be worth a try.
Ah- Which block do you reckon?? Are you going to aim for an 80mm bore and 5K pistons on the shortest stroke you can find?
When you start to look around there have been some strange pistons in 4K blocks- a guy used 80mm VW Golf pistons in one.
Ah- a neat & tidy blue one like ours! What did you pay for it?
if you want to mod it in a lightweight way, check out what we have done-
http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/
Have you got the workshop manual for the AE86??
Its on the web somewhere, I d'loaded a copy ages back and printed it. That will have wiring diagramns and engine info in it.