altezzaclub

I haven't heard of anyone converting a hydro to a cable, as the slave cyl pushes and the cable pulls. Perhaps the clutch arm pivot is on opposite sides of the bell housing. On a K50 it should pivot on the passenger's side, and on a T50 it should pivot on the driver's side. On your T50 you would have to take a cable all the way around to behind the clutch arm and then pull it towards the back of the car.

Usual stuff, all well-documented on here. Carbs- twin SUs, Weber d'draught or DCOE sidedraught. Finding manifolds is the problem. Cam- plenty of people cut cams for them. Exhaust- You can still buy new extractors. Head skim to raise compression. ..and if you do city driving grab a diff from an auto, they are lower geared so accelerate faster. You could always rebore it to 1500cc and fit 5K pistons if its pretty tired.

I suppose you bend them back halfway to where they were... Is there a gap between those contacts when the lever is in the 'low beam' position?? If the contacts separate after you have pulled the lever back to the 'flash' position but the high beams stay on, then it must be something odd with a relay in that circuit.

Lovely car! We had a turbo manual version, and with the 4-wheel steering it was very nimble for its size! I'd prefer that to a Camry any day!

Make sure its a 5-speed. If its a 4speed then that's one great mod that is easy to do. You will need to do 5 things together to make the most of modifying the motor. Carb: Weber down-draught, twin SUs or Weber DCOE side-draught are the most popular. Cam: Get the cam & followers you have ground to a new profile. Exhaust: Extractors and a larger diameter pipe with free-flow mufflers. Head: Have it skimmed to raise the compression to suit the other mods. Flywheel: lighten it & check the clutch while you have it off the road. Budget $500-$800 for carb, depends which you use, $200 for cam & you have some change, $600 exhaust, $100-$300 head, depends on valve conditions and other work found, $100 for flywheel and a couple of hundred for tuning. There goes $2000+ and do it in your holidays as it will be ff the road for a couple of weeks. I spent $2200 here- http://www.rollaclub...the-girls-ke70/

You need to ask Kings what shocks suit your springs. It will vary from car to car. If not, you need to take your springs (or measure them, or get rates off Kings) and current shocks to a shock shop that has a shock testing machine. Then a tech there can calculate you a shock rate to suit the springs AND a shock length that will suit the springs and bump stops. If your shock is too long it will be smashed when you bottom the suspension over one of Australia's famous potholes. Altezzaclub went to an evening lecture at Koni in Auckland, and it was fascinating. They can make a lowered, stiff car ride without jolting.

It does look good! Finland- snow... trees.... yumps... super-fast stages.... !! Welcome in!

Mind-boggling!! What is it like undeneath?? Chopped and welded to fit the front drive in?? Why don't you fit a stock diff in the front and leave the rear locked?? Can you run an LSD setup in the center diff?? other wise one spinning tyre will tkill any traction with open diffs. Start a build thread!

I'd say 'no', but some guys will say 'yes'. It depends on how much money you want to spend and what you will do with the car. If you're going to race it seriously then I'm sure you are better off with coilovers, mainly because you can easily change spring rates and shock rates on that expensive gear, as well as ride height. That's a two-edged sword though, as lowering the car will alter all the suspension geometry and it will need aligning before you drive it seriously anyway.. I'd set up the best suspension I could with what is there, do the brakes and then the engine, and have some fun for a year. I'm sure you will find that the lack of a limited slip diff is the biggest failing, then the gearbox ratios, then the suspension.

oops- and Towie's comment would be correct if you have too much slack in the outer cable, it will allow the fork to go too far back. Just grab the outer cable at the firewall and pull it, see how far it moves. I'll photograph mine in a moment. Right- the red line is on the big washer at the rubber spacer. The yellow line is on the circlip that slips into any of the outer cable grooves to give the correct adjustment. If I pull on the outer cable the circlip moves away from the big washer by the amount you can see 10-15mm. Its a bit greasy around there so they didn't show up too well. I converted my auto to a manual and riveted that fitting on the firewall.

In front of the one you have at the firewall in the picture. Basically you space it to hold the outer cable away from the firewall, so you can pull on the outer cable and the circlip moves away from the spacer about 10mm. That 10mm is just enough to let the arm at the bell-housing pull the thrust bearing back off the pressure plate so the bearing doesn't spin all the time. A bit more gap doesn't matter, but too much means the thrust bearing will not push the pressure plate in enough to loosen the clutch plate, which will give the gearbox drag as you change gears. That's why you couldn't get it into gear easily, the pressure plate wasn't releasing far enough. You can feel it in the clutch pedal, the first 10-15mm does nothing as it takes up that freeplay, then it gets stiff as you push the pressure plate in.

Just as much as a slim 17year old girl can lift half of....... on a length of 4X2..... :laff: That's how we got it out and in!

What can you pull it out with the circlip on? ie, just as you have been driving it. That should only be a cm or so, which will give you an inch or less freeplay on the pedal before it gets hard to push as it works the flywheel. It sounds like a spacer of the right size should get it working.

Take the plugs out and check that they're not burned away and set them at 0.8m. Leave them out. Set the tappets at 0.2mm inlets and 0.3mm exhaust. Points gap is 0.45mm, so set that with the little rubbing block on the square corner of the dizzy cam so that is the maximum gap it ever makes. You should buy yourself a timing light, you'll use it for years, but if not you can do this. Rotate the motor until number one cyl is firing (you watch for #4 valves crossing over) and put the timing mark on the pulley at 10deg before the top dead center mark. Turn the ignition on and rotate the dizzy back until the points are just opening. If you move it back and forth at that point you will hear and see a spark across the points. That's when it will fire the coil. Not as accurate as a timing light, but pretty good. Then put it all back together and tackle the carbs. These motors seem happy with more advance than the 8deg the manuals say, so 10 or 12deg will be fine..

Well, how about Govt in an emergency... Surely that's what a Govt is for, using taxes extorted from everyone to help people in disasters. They are the people who will rebuild the country.. surely?? hang on.. watch this- http://libertarianz....msg_share_video ...and pray the Govt never comes to help you!!! ------------------------------------------------------------------- & how sick is your Govt to do this to you..?? ..and last week I bought a little '92 Nssan Pulsar SSS for my son. It got a new RWC on Thursday. ($35!) He flew up from Melb, we sorted it over the weekend and he bought a temp rego to drive it back to Melb. Then I get an email from him... ..bend over and drop your trou, the parasites are here! hmmm... the govt is about to hijack your super funds to make sure they get "invested" in the right place!

How is the timing setting Jose? Have you checked the points gap and got that right, then set the dizzy timing? It sounded a bit flat in the video, I thought maybe it was retarded too far. Don't they all rattle terribly on a video camera soundtrack! Much worse than when you're standing there!

Now tell the truth.. if it ran out of oil while you were driving, would you have noticed before it ran the bearings and ruined the crank?? The rally car had a trailer indicator light on the steering column as an oil pressure light, it lit up the whole of the car inside when it came on! :laff:

What was shocking about the brakes? What happened if you pushed harder? They will lock up the fronts no problem, and any more braking than that is wasted. Check the rotors and replace pads if needed. Just get it back to new condition and see what you don't like. Most p-platers go too low, its just a fact of life, and with all the steering angles out of kilter the car doesn't handle well at all. I've got cut springs, 30mm off the free spring length a the front (one coil) and 1.5coils off the back. That gives a ground to mudguad height of 610mm front and rear, compared to stock 635 front, 645 rear. The car doesn't look lowered at all, but the suspension is stiffer and it runs a Celica rear sway & Corona front LCAs. I'm happy with cheap-ass mods, & having bought a very nice '95 SSS Pulsar for $2500 today, I can't see the point of pouring money into the KE70. Mine cost $1800 with 110,000km, and probably looks a neat and tidy as yours. So try not to screw it up with bad modifications, you can buy something faster just as cheap instead of ruining a nice original car. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

That is the problem. I assume Toyota have a distinct torque to do them up to, carefully worked out to seat it against the gasket sealant but not deform it. Mine leaks out the rear curve under the crank, but a prick of a thing to get to without lifting the motor so I just put newspaper on the garage floor. Embarrassing, Jap cars are not meant to leak like a damm Euro!

Sure, the extra petrol is taking up room that should be air. Is it a stock carb, head and cam?? Any changes will effect jetting and probably cost a lot of dyno time to get right throughout the range. The option is to get yourself an oxygen sensor and fuel mixture display so you can judge for yourself where it runs lean and where it runs rich. That's the only way I got my SU needles sorted.

Ht it with a grinder and get it back to bare metal, then one of the rust kill liquids. After that you can dent the hole edges in a little & fill the non-structural holes with bog or fibreglass over them first to provide a base. Unless you hit the other side with some anti-rust stuff it will keep on rusting forever.

Any ideas on what the difference between a solid grind an a hydro grind is?? Do they open a hydro slower or faster on the ramp??

...and you could race a 1600cc on a pair of 45DCOEs, so 1500cc should handle a single on that manifold fine. Blend the hole size going manifold to head, but leave the carb-manifold as a step to reduce reversion.

Ke70 is the same as the van you have, rear of m'cyl to rear brakes. (bought that Pulsar SSS today... $2500...looks fine, was parked opposite SAMs garage on Peisley St)

I run a Crow 270deg advertised duration and 0.4" lift, which is low/mid-range. It idles grumpy but doesn't feel cammy when you drive it. 280deg would be too wild for what you said, so closer to the 270 than 280..Look up the cam list here and go to the company's pages to see their comments. Often they describe the cams as 'street' sports/street' 'race' etc I wanted a mildish cam too, so I haven't listed the really wild ones. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70