altezzaclub

Both of those should be sorted by the ECU. Knock sensor for timing and O2 sensor before the cat. I suppose I could take the O2 sensors and the FMD out of the KE70 and fit them as a second opinion on the mixture! :laff: She would have gassed up somewhere in between Gunnedah-Coonabarabran, usually with Caltex 95.

Wide open throttle is correct for compression testing. The Altezza won't do it as it is semi-fly-by-wire, and the throttle plate doesn't move when you push the pedal until halfway down. The full pedal is about 1/3 throttle plate open. Anyway, I wedged it wide open for the tests. We've just hooked a compressor up to the plug holes and put 100psi down the two 30psi cylinders, and it came out the exhaust pipe. So burnt exhaust valves, titanium, $150 each... and a complex head job strip! I must say Yamaha head castings are absolutely beautiful! Probably, it would start and run if we towed it, and drive at 100kph quite happily. The inertia of the airflow at 3000rpm would mean its just down on power but still running smoothly. I can't understand how it started fine i the morning in Armidale, but they're rooted by Orange. Bloody dud NSW petrol I reckon!

Haha! We're a staid & boring lot! Do what I say, not do as I do... I remember failing school exams because I was working on a car until all hours, and working on rally cars until way after midnight for a rally the next day.. even working through the night on my Armstrong Siddeley so it was ready to drive to Uni the next day, a full-day drive. NOW I know better...

Forget the deadline! Think carefully which is worse- missing the show or making a terminal mistake at 1am rushing it and blowing the 5K up with a bit of metal down a cyl or flying around in the SC12. Take you time and make sure you are confident EVERYTHING is assembled properly and you have no niggling doubts about "why was that not fitting very well...." Ed of year exams... nah- you can repeat the same year next year and do them then, and anyway, they only effect the rest of your life....

haha! Swap the motors between the blue car and the red car you mean! Cams run straight on top of mirror-finish 'top-hat' followers, not even any shims. Setting tappets means reading them, removing cams, selecting the right thickness top hat and reassembling ti... I'd hate to have to pay a Toyota technician to do it! You can see reflection under the marked lobe, and the way they cut the heel of the cams to half the lobe width.

OK, I own a 1999 Toyota Altezza with a 3S-GE Beams motor, had it since 2001 its done 120,000km and I changed the cam belt/idlers/water pump a couple of years back. It has never given a moments trouble. <--- a nice red one! My wife took the daughter back to Uni a few months ago, some 500km each way, and when she came back she parked the car in the driveway. I got in later to put it in the garage and it didn't instantly start, so I just rolled it down the drive and shut the door. It has never started since. She said it was running fine all day and gave no indication of something different. It cranks fast, with a smell of unburnt fuel and occasionally fires a cylinder. So new plugs went in and I started looking for failed sensors etc. I checked all the common ones, injectors, cam & crank position sensors, TPS, APS, coils (coil over plugs), temp sensor, VVTi solenoids and a few others. All I could read were resistances, and in no case were there any zeros, all sensors have full circuits. OBD1 is fitted, the engine check light flashes at a constant rate with no codes. Other lights (traction control light) have codes, but in theory shouldn't. So the computer knows something is wrong, but it doesn't know what. That's why I spent a couple of weeks on the electrics. A mate had a set of coils spare so I ran those against mine, same result. I took the tappet cover off & checked tappet clearances, inlets around 9thou, exhaust 11-12thou. We put a compression gauge over it.... 100, 100 30, 30psi.... oil didn't make a difference. So- Its trying to run on two 100psi cylinders, which is why it cranks fast and fires occasionally. Before I pull the head off, what suggestions are there of what could be wrong? *head gasket- only if it is burnt between 3 & 4, pumps air from one to the other without a whistling noise and doesn't affect oil or water, or give a backfire when cranking. ...and it somehow leaks out of 1 and 2. *rings- only if they suddenly collapsed badly enough to give 30psi cranking without a rattle or a knock. *valves- only if they are running stock tappet gaps. I've thought long and hard about a VVTi fault bending valves but I can't see how it can. I expect a bent valve to alter the tappet gap, but maybe they are suddenly burned to nothing... *blocked inlet manifold- only if 'something' got in there and anyway it still sucks hard if you put your hand over it. I'm going to buy a fitting for a leakdown test tomorrow, but really, unless there is some stunning explanation that means I don't have to take the head off, the leakdown test is a waste of time. Any of those reasons for collapsed compression means 'take the head off'... Any bright ideas? I would really really hate to spend a bundle of money, lots of time and aggravation, and run the risk of screwing something up only to find it wasn't under the head!!

..and if you want to see "The War on Terror" working, just consider "The War on Poverty". Its been going a lot longer and costs more!

This is a Govt acting precisely to Keyne's ideas. Hew said the Govt should pay workmen to bury jars of money and let other people dig them up. That would make the economy work. Now the French Govt is paying people to build warships that they will give away to a country that doesn't need them... its like you being flat broke, on welfare, and being given another car. You don't need it and it will cost you money you don't have to register it... From "Money Morning"

Click on "Use full editor", it has the image uploading menu.

If they're jpg files they should load fine, make them about 800-900pixels wide. That's a great buy for $500.. Well done!

Nope, if the left-hand flasher works, then the right-hand should. One unit does both. Put the right-hand flasher on and take out the RH bulbs, even swap them with the LH bulbs. If one isn't lit check that power gets there. The flasher unit needs a certain current draw to work.

Mine was leaking through the joints in the boot channel where the rubber seal sits. They looked fine, and I'd had that area repainted a couple of years back, but a coating of silicon at the panel joints fixed it. I assume they had flexed and cracked the paint, the body is very weak really.. We popped a leaking tailight out years ago and put vaseline around the rubber seal there, that fixed that leak.

It sounds like there are pieces of dirt stuck in odd places inside the carbs and they block up the jets. Still, its all working now is it?? Run it like that until you have the brakes setup so you can check that booster out. Check your PCV valve on the crankcase to make sure its not jammed open with some dirt under the seal. Do you have a vacuum advance on the distributor?

Yep, they look OK. I had Datsuns for 30years before I bought a Corolla, they're bulletproof, go well, but rust in the sills & mudguards... The first thing you will learn is bargaining skill! How to find the minimum price that a guy will take, then pull out exactly $100 less than that in cash and say "Damm, I've only got $800" as you wave it front of him.. "I'll get back to you next payday".... So make sure you have $100 bills in different pockets! :laff: We get a few undamaged ones down at the wrecker- Either they died or ran out of rego ... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49218-straight-flat-front-ke70-orange-wreckers/ http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/52168-at-the-wreckers-in-orange-jun-2011/

Don't do it! When I was 15 I bought a burned-out 1949 Armstrong Siddeley to have as a first car. I was nearly 19 when I got it on the road, and the BIG advantage I had was that I took it apart.! I didn't realise that Rolla was so stripped- you won't know where everything goes, right down to nuts/bolts/plastic tabs, so I reckon you will never get it back to original. It would make a great race car, it just stays stripped out, but if you want a nice Rolla keep looking for an original somewhat tatty one and rebuild it yourself. Rob here in Orange has a KE10 sitting around decaying in his yard, that's all stripped too, and a partly stripped KE35 in his garage, and two or three KE55s in his yard in various states of not going. If you want to bang your head against a brick wall you could try one of those, they are all restoration projects he's 'working on'. If not, buy a going or at least un-stripped one and get into it.

They should be in every wreckers, they're here in Orange at Great Western.

The needle under the float. (well, above it actually..) That is what controls the stopping of petrol entering the bowl, so any bit of shit across it or a very worn taper can let it flood. The float level doesn't go out much, and often they were made non-adjustable. The connection between the fuel line and the bowl top does often freeze up, so just ignore them.

Use a 4K or 5K, still not legal probably, but it flies under the radar as far as I can see, they all look the same. Sell the SR & use the money for a 4K and a K50 gearbox. Just get it all running and sort the body and suspension, brakes etc & when you're happy with all that then wind the K motor up with a cam & carb & exhaust. They are dead simple, easy to work on and you can do your own porting and headwork. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ By the time you're off your Ps you'll know enough to fit something else & make a good job of it, the usual 4AGE or SR

If you're on L or P plates, yes, its illegal end of story. Any modification for more performance is illegal. If you have a full license, I don't know if that motor in that car is illegal, but certainly if legal it will need to be engineered, and you will need to chat to the guy who is going to charge you to certify it about what he wants done. It won't be cheap, I'm talking $thousands not $hundreds. I can tell....

They go over 4000rpm?? You sure? Always sound like tractors to me! :laff: So just as quick as the S15 and a lot more practical hey?

A very good question! Why not buy a stock KE30 and do that up? You might also try to be a little more specific in you topic titles too... "please help" is not very informative and plenty of people (like me) usually won't bother to open it for some kid on school holidays who has no clue on how a forum operates and usually asks exactly the same dumb question asked a thousand times before... get my drift?

That's a lot of work in the body already. What brake setup are you going to run?? Adjustable bias?? Hydraulic handbrake?

I'm not familiar with the 4AC, but are there fusible links in there that you haven't checked? I think you will end up with a multimeter checking the whole motor circuit. this is 4K...

More commonly, the needle and seat is not sealing, rather than float level adjustment.

Intake 0.2mm exhaust 0.3mm hot. Two ways of doing it, and they lead to different results. Get a cylinder on firing TDC and set both tappets, or use the rule of nine where you get one valve on max open and set the corresponding (9-minus-that-valve) which will be on max gap. So get valve 3 on max open and set valve 6. Rule of 9 sets them on the heel of the cam, the maximum gap. TDC sets them slightly off on both valves, so the gap is smaller than the max. Set them one way and check them the other.