altezzaclub

No reason why not. You probably wouldn't notice the difference in having a slightly smaller second throat unless you're on a race track, and at least its brand new. It will need the same adapter plate I assume, and once its running have it dyno'd and re-jetted. You could make it a really simple swap and just bolt it on, or take the manifold off as well and smooth all the edges out of it before you fit the Weber.

Corona lower control arms will just bolt in and widen the front track giving a touch of negative camber to give better front grip. A Celica rear sway bar is thicker, bolts straight in and cuts out some of the understeer. Both from a wrecker so cheap to do. Have the suspension tested at a shock shop and get a readout of how good the shocks are. If you need new shocks start to research which ones are slightly stiffer and either buy new shorter springs or cut a coil off yours. If I was doing it I'd grab a grinder and take a half a coil off the front and one coil off the rear and run it like that for a month. That's not much lower, but it will tell you how much stiffer it gets from a small lowering. You don't want to end up with a low car that kills your kidneys and your GF hates. We have one coil off the front and one&1/2 off the rears, which makes it 610mm from ground to wheel arch both front and rear. It also makes it quite stiff and people do comment on its ride. It doesn't look particularly low, just not as crazy high as it came out the factory.

Do the tyres scritch and scrub when you're driving into a carpark at walking speed? How is the understeer now? Does it push straight ahead more? I can see its better than having one wheel light up, but its such a poor compromise compared to having a clutch pack in there. Keep it high and hard, the cops don't notice high.

Well, its no good rushing off spending money on something that other guys have found doesn't give a good bang for bucks.. from 30seconds on google... http://www.edmunds.com/car-technology/brakes-drum-vs-disc.html Anyway, the REAL reason for using an R31 rear end is to get a limited slip diff! Once you start doing mods on a rolla the one thing that holds you back is the lack of an LSD. The problem of using something bigger is having more weight banging around in the back and jumping off the road, so you need to keep unsprung weight as low as you can. If you're keen enough you can shorten a Skyline diff and re-do the mounts and use it with an LSD.

lookin' good! What sort of mods are you going to start with?? Engine or suspension?? Go faster or handle better...

........and will you ever be able to register it???

OMG! That is such a brilliant venue! Make the most of it, you guys are so lucky!

Looks good! What did you pay for it?? Its a shame so many nice ones are ending up in the wreckers when so many guys are looking for them.

If it is just that one cylinder and everything else is running fine, then it will be a valve problem. Burnt valve or ruined seat, either way its head off time, or if you're unbelievably lucky a tappet has closed up.. Do a compression test before you do anything else, the readings on the other cyls will tell you how good the rings are. It may be time for new rings too.

The Nissan man has it! Why bother?? Rear brakes do very little of the braking and you will run into bias problems swapping stuff around. So you will need to be able to limit the rear braking power to stop it locking the tail up. It may be fine until the day you really hit the brakes hard and find the rears lock first into an instant spin. Disc are only for changing pads faster in a race, and working against that is that they bring along a shoddy handbrake system. Rear drums will do quite adequately, well as far as stopping 30ton trucks go anyway. They used to race cars with rear drums at Le Mans, and the big thing was to have finned rear drums to dissapate heat in racing conditions. So I'm pretty sure you could use the drums you have and get better performance from the fronts. We rallied for years with rear drums and an adjustable limiter that allowed us to dial-in rear lockup in tight stages.

Nice! Santa thinks you must have been a good boy for the year!

nah... Benny, dildos are for Dildos! Don't worry about a gearknob unless its a leather one from a BMW/Merc with a Toyota badge mounted on! Actually, ours is a 4WD=FWD knob from a Tercel 4WD! Can you buy new channels?? Some cars you can, then you drill out the spotwelds on the old ones and pull them off, rustproof the car floorpan itself and weld the new one on. Its much better as the rust always goes much further than you think. When you're done you can fill them with expanding foam like in 7shade's post, it stiffens them up and stops water getting in.

LOL! That is cute! Enginuity at its best.

Is that the one where you keep it folded up in your licence and hand it over when stopped? ... the cop says "Is this your's Sir?" and you say "No Officer, I think its yours" and he says... "No, its not." and throws it away in the wind.... :laff: So, what else is for sale that's worth buying now??

So philbey,do you check the preload the same way I used to?? Slowly force the lifter down with a big screwdriver and measure the tappet gap at the valve?? Then it rattles like shit when you start it as it pumps them back up again... I'm afraid I learnt all this on a 1949 Typhoon when I was restoring it as a teenager, so it may be a bit dated. (Its just been finished by my youngest brother, 45years later!)

Lol- yeah soz Towie. OK, here is what happens inside. You used to be able to unbolt solenoids and fix them, but these days they are swaged shut. The small wire takes power to the solenoid when you hit the ignition "start". That fires up the windings and sucks the steel core backwards in its magnetic field. The arm through the pivot pushes the bendix gear forward to engage the flywheel teeth. Simultaneously, the copper bar across the back of the solenoid core bridges across the back of the nuts you see on the outside, one of them carrying main power from the battery. The 300amps current goes down the fat cable, through the copper bar and into the starter windings. It sparks and burns the bar and the bolt heads, so when they are corroded and dirty they just go "click click click" as it slams back and forth but won't fire the starter windings.

...and the one that no-one has mentoned is the teeth on the flywheel. When you had the starter out, did you check the flywheel teeth?? They get smashed every time you hit the key, and because the motor always stops just coming up to compression there are only a few places on the flywheel where it stops. These teeth get worn and the starter can't engage properly. So if you have the starter out take a look at the teeth where it engages. ...and I hope it was a fully reconditioned one with the solenoid renewd, (the solenoid contacts burn away) or else you might have replaced it with one just as bad as the old. Scottiriver's photo above is NOT the starter solenoid, that is a solenoid that powers the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid sits on the starter motor and does two jobs- it slams the bendix gears into the flywheel and it switches on the huge current that the starter windings need. Test it like Towie says, but remember its not under load in the test. So it might work fine out of the car but not in.

How about bolting one onto a 5K?? You don't need the hydraulic lifters at all, its 1500cc already, the bottom has been shown to take massive revs if you want to and the machining of parts has been done once... Who's a good machinist?

Yes, I thought "gutters" but they don't really have them. Then maybe "channels"... door sills? Take a photo of the rust in the canals for us Benjamin. As parrot said, grind the paint back around the rust to clean steel then weld in a new piece is best. Second best is to grind it back then fibreglass over it. If there is any rust left around the hole treat it with a rust-kill product, one of the phosphoric acid liquids. If the rust is just on a flat surface with no holes you can use paint stripper and a scraper to get the paint off and treat it with rust-kill, the paint over it. Good luck with it, Norway is hard on cars, quite the opposite to inland Australia where nothing rusts.

Yeah, & I hope you get a fish tank for Xmas Jono! Have a good one!

Excellent- and a good point for anyone else reading this thread who is working in the cooling system.

Ok, so side-cam hydraulics are self-adjusting. If they are pumping up and holding the valves open a little then it won't idle. I don't know how you would check that. If the cab was running on it,then only the overlap from the cam should be a factor. I think 1000rpm may be your idle speed. What is it like running at that?? Smooth?? Grumpy and threatening to stall?? My rolla on SUs is grumpy with a 270deg cam, less lift than yours, and although it sounds like it will stall, when its warm it will sit on 1000rpm for 5minutes no trouble.

A friend I do a lot of work with owns an early 90s Landcruise with the smaller diesel engine, I think its a 3L. He drives long disatnces every week (works in a mine 4hrs away) and drives at 90kph to minimize fuel usage. It still uses 9 to 10L/100km, which is terrible! I though diesels were cheap to run, although I've never owned one, but this shows otherwise. It also has pathetic power up hills of course!

Its very hard to see a difference between the 2T and the 3T. In theory the left hand column are all 2T and the right hand ones are 3T. Some thermostat housings point left and some right.

I think EvanG ran a Weber about that size instead of the 32/36 off a Ford. PM him and ask what he finally used for jets.