altezzaclub

Not easily... Locked diffs are hopeless anyway, if you're going to spend money on another diff get something that will take an LSD. Sadly AE86 gear is the answer and EVERYONE wants it. Easy- cam, carbs, head job, exhaust... all easy to find and not expensive.

Nah- Datsun 1200 is much nicer than a 4K, dammed silly tilted-over motor with everything hidden under it. All the FWDs are cramped under the bonnet, that was a major selling point for the factories. The whole drivetrain could be assembled independently and fitted to the body as one big unit, where it took up a lot less of the car volume than the RWD did. I think the Seca models are the nicest looking, although I'm not sure what the big open hatchback hole in the body does for torsional strength.

This is why you build it... A home-machined .50cal BMG rifle that you'll never go hunting with or shooting down helicopters, or blowing up oil depots, or.... using at a rifle range. Something a mate built from scratch including the barrel, not because he had a use for it, but because he could! ..and yes, the recoil is irresistible, the blast stunning and the noise unbelievable!

I'm with him! Modern cars are in the 1300-1500Kg range and you're already 300kg lighter than that. Panels like the guards and bonnet are already thin and flimsy, as one run into a tree will tell you.

Nope- Somewhere is a photo of both the insides I posted up, they're completely different. Either drop the electronic one into a dizzy specialist and pay for a new set of springs, or re-spring it yourself. Topic on it here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45

lol! thankyou Evan! "Flat top" or "O-dish" 5K pistons have about a 5cc dish in them. Your stock 4K head combustion chamber is about 31cc, gasket about 7.5cc. Motor is 80x73 now isn't it, = 367cc. So you have (367+7.5+5+31) going into (5+7.5+31) or 410.5:43.5 or 9.4:1. Not high because the dish in the piston is 15% of the head volume. A real flat top piston would be (367+7.5+31) into (31+7.5) or 405.5:38.5 = 10.5 to one! Measure a piston dish for volume and make sure!

Yes- I did one of the Datsun 1600 rally cars years back, can't remember why, but it never gave any trouble. (apart from rain falling in through the open door!)

haha! THAT's why you build a cross-plane crank 4K

Lol- Kits are dirt cheap, $20 or so last month when I did a clutch m'cyl. Just take the components into a brake shop.

Best mod you can do! In here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Any questions... ask.

Going to get the crank lightened & knife-edged first?? Then again, maybe afterwards... in case it doesn't work!

Depends how much of a hard time you give it.. Picture going into a corner hard and the outside front strut is bending.... hitting potholes and the stub axles are flexing... Take a look each weekend for a month and see if there are clean areas on the tyre or the strut. Were those rims on the car, or are they illegal to use and the guy took them off to sell it??

Nice for the price! We paid $1800 for ours with 110,000km on, an auto that we converted. I reckon nice ones are worth $1500-$2000, and if someone can find one for $1000 its a bargain.

I have both allen keys and also the small bits that fit into a hollow screwdriver or 8mm socket. Often the small bits are better quality, so they might be worth a try.

Ah- Which block do you reckon?? Are you going to aim for an 80mm bore and 5K pistons on the shortest stroke you can find? When you start to look around there have been some strange pistons in 4K blocks- a guy used 80mm VW Golf pistons in one.

Ah- a neat & tidy blue one like ours! What did you pay for it? if you want to mod it in a lightweight way, check out what we have done- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Have you got the workshop manual for the AE86?? Its on the web somewhere, I d'loaded a copy ages back and printed it. That will have wiring diagramns and engine info in it.

Ducting... get the heat out before it builds up.

Take the cable off at the carb end and see that the pedal & cable move smoothly & freely. If they do then its in the carb linkages somewhere, or a broken return spring..

What was behind it and under the RX7?? Austin Healey? MG-B?

Well, funny you should mention that Boss.... I think its the best place to weld them, you would machine both sides to a cone and build them up again to be ground off. That would at least have the bearing spread the load across the join. I'm no welder, so it really depends on what they're made of and what a welding shop reckons. The exhaust company working on the rally Stanza we had managed to break the input shaft of the Nissan factory CR gearbox we were using. ("just driving it up on the ramps..." Yeah right) We had that welded and it lasted until we went over a yump flat-out in 5th one night, when it snapped beside the weld. The second time it was welded was more successful, I don't think we ever had trouble with it again, so that could take a 160bhp hammering.

Nah- such pessimists! I mean, how reliable is a 4K crank? How often do they break? Almost never! They are over-engineered and bulletproof, so there is a lot of redundancy built in there. Even if it ran for a year maxed at 6,000rpm its a great proof of concept. Cost might be something else, there are engineers in Orange that do those sorts of jobs on mining machinery, but I imagine they aren't cheap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OtSq62J610&feature=related look it up on here- No other answer!

Yes, but probably Jaycar have some electronic kit that will do it. You need some sort of ECU to read the input from a CAS and send a variable signal to the coil. The variable part will be needed to have an advance curve related to rpm. Look up the Megajolt DIS (distributorless ignition system) and ask them if it will handle such weird timing. I think a lot of them are programmed for firing 180deg apart. Then you start thinking .. the ECU can take account of temperature so does cold/warm mixture if it was injected, so if I just add 7K injectors and if I fitted an oxy sensor and... ..it never stops!

That's easier- have someone pull the box over so it makes the noise while you crawl underneath & look for it. It sounds like engine/g'box mounts problem, letting the engine/box rub somewhere. Grab a long screwdriver and put your ear against it while touching the blade to various parts of the box & motor.