altezzaclub

How is the thickness difference between the inlet & exhaust manifold?? If one is thicker it would be a source of air leaks, or if you have nuts that are bolted onto welds instead of flat surfaces. Photos in post #10 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Ah- what exhaust manifold?? Stock or extractors??

Will it idle when its runing badly?? Will it rev smoothly in neutral when its running badly? Sounds like its running out of fuel, not a tuning problem- jet blocked or fuel pump can't deliver enough, blocked fuel filter...

My stock 3SGE has 210bhp, the 7K has 80bhp...... But the 7K will be easiest to fit!

For grunt I'd use the 2T (old, but OK) or the 4AGE, but the best is the 3SGE straight out of an Altezza with its 6-speed box. The only troubles would be finding a half-cut & fitting the bell-housing in the tunnel. It would be a lot of work to turn an MR2 motor around, and they are a genertion older. Cheapest would be 5K or a 4K bored out to 5K pistons. Price the Altezza motor up against a Mazda MX5. Both RWD configuration & same 6-speed box.

Sort out why its leaking- I usually rub that housing top on oiled sandpaper (about 280grit) on a flat surface (piece of steel I have) to get the corrosion cleaned off it. The bit on the engine I file gently & clean out the groove where the t'stat sits. Run a hacksawed bolt (poor man's tap) in and out of the holes a few times to make sure the threads are cleaned, as those bolts break off at the worst time possible! I don't know if the gasket will swell after a night in water and seal itself... it might.

Extractors will certainly help, but the main problem might be clearance between the DCOE manifold and the stock exhaust manifold. I don't know if they will fit together.

Unlikely- you'd need less than zero clearance to hold the valve open a whisker, and I think if the locknut loosens off the gap gets larger. Do a compression test and see how they read. Mine has a rattle that sounds exactly like one tappet not adjusted but I'm dammed if I can find it.

fair enough, you're a third of the weight of the car at that corner, so it will take a lot to bottom out. I assume they are Kings springs, they do bright yellow ones for ZK Fairlanes. No rate written down on their website for them unfortunately.

Its just for rust protection, so a spray of body sealer would do after you treat the rust to neutralise it.

Take out the thermostat. Drive the car for a day or two and see if that solves it. Then park it on a hill facing upwards, turn the heater on full, take off the rad cap, idle the warm motor and rev it occasionally. Squeeze the rad hoses a couple of times. Its just to get out any bubbles that may be trapped in the lines. See if that helps it. Then put the t'stat back in. That's a lot! Check the temp guage with a thermometer so you know if its reading OK (stick a thermometer in the rad when you're idling it with the cap off to bleed it) Either its getting to boiling point or something is forcing that water out.

Track only should be good, no potholes! If you add the size of the spring wires together you can work out how short it will be when it compresses right up. See if your shock will bottom out before then, and see if you can fit in a bump stop just before it bottoms out. The shocks will smash the foot valves if they take all the load when it bottoms out.

Ah- very flash. That solves a of of problems.

Ah- this will tax my sketching skills.... drawings later on. 1)make the passenger's side mount a solid block with a horizontal top. Make the drivers side a solid block with a few degrees angling upwards towards the pass side on the top face. Bolt the spring steel square bar to the drivers side, then force it down to the passengers side. This pre-tensions it, although not as efficiently as... 2)make the passengers side a clevis mount with a bolt that goes through your square bar. Make the drivers side a clevis mount with a sloping face of a few degrees and a closed top with a locking bolt though it. Its like a box on its side with a sloping 'bottom', and your bar has the opposite wedge slope on its face. Put the bar in the box, then drop the pass side in and bolt it up. Then screw the drivers side down forcing the two wadge faces to jam the towers apart. Still not as good as... 3)Make both mounts clevis mounts with bolts through and have eyes in your round tube bar. The pass side needs only to be able to rotate, so make a long neck on the eye-bolt down inside the tube. The drivers side must be threaded and a proper suspension rose-joint used. Bolt both ends in and rotate the bar so the rose-joint forces the towers apart. The only quick images on Google are these- So this is what I mean by a clevis mount, the free-rotating end of 3) and the adjustable end.

Nah- c'mon another decade before you start getting old! i wish I was your age again! Nothing wrong with a good set of carbs- when the north pole inverts and everything electronic stops working we'll still be driving! I've had a play with bits and pieces on ours, although I wish I'd got a square-nose with chrome bumpers really. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

I wouldn't want to! I want to see what its like to drive and what effect those springs have! So... what happens when the strut wants to drop down to follow a hollow in the road or the body rolls in a corner and the zip ties are holding it up?? I've always wondered what tension a zip tie can stand.

Did you top it up before you went?? So it started full of water and when it cooled down it was short of how much?? If its not short by at least a litre the overheating is not due to water shortage, its just not cooling correctly. It may be that it just can't cool enough so it is pumping more water into the overflow than it can suck back. So, new water pump & thermostat, and a clean radiator with good fins. Have you tried with without a thermostat at all?? What sort of driving? Around town and idling at lights, or on the motorways at 100kph?? Ours cooled much better after i cleaned all the rust out of the block, but that was with the motor out and the head off!

Try and build a bit of pre-stress into a fixed on, so you jam it in and as you bolt it up it pushes against the towers. Otherwise the bar does absolutely nothing as there is a mm or two of movement to put it under stress and the towers don't move more than that. Sadly, in the years I was doing all of this back in the 70s/80s I never used a camera at all. :(

sigh... rizzle, like all the kids who ask this question, FIRST you need to tell us- what you want to do with the car- race it, rally it, drift it, drive it to work and back...? what can you do yourself- can you strip motor adn replace rings and bearings? Can you weld up engine mounts? how much money do you have to spend? There is no doubt the best N/A motor to use comes straight out of Honda S2000, but are you man enough to tackle it?

Missing a cyl when it first starts up?? That sort of chugging? Electrics not firing a plug or an injector? Does it runs really smoothly when it starts well, so idles straight away on the cold start system?

It would also be helpful if everyone (especially those saying "Use Fiat Dominoe rears in the front, I saw them in the wreckers andf they looked good"...). could actually put up some spring rates Measure the wire diameter, the spring coil outside diameter, the number of active coils (the two end ones that touch the seats don't count) and plug those 3 figures into the spring caluculator here- http://www.stockcarproducts.com/pstech10.htm

There is a lot to take into consideration for that, the V8 hotrodders go into deep engineering details and arguments about how to set it up. Keeping leaf springs involves problems, but so does manufacturing coil towers.

A good thing to worry about too... Not only that, they will transmit the road stress straight into the towers and pop the spotwelds in the engine bay, and will do the opposite when you hit a pothole in a corner and overload the tyre sidewalls so they will blow out. Don;t let me stop you doing it though...:laff:

Are you going to have an adjustable or a preloaded strut brace? We ran an adjustable on the rally car, the pipe across the car was cut in half & had a left-hand & a right hand thread cut in the ends. We turned a nut on a shaft in the middle and it tried to push the struts apart & then we clamped it up. We could've threaded pipes on the towers and cut threads on the ends of the bar and turned the whole bar, same principle. A nice one for the Altezza has a slightly flexible square bar across the endgine that attaches to the towers with Allen screws. When you do the screws up they flex the bar and pre-load the towers outwards.

Did you work out the spring rates?? Wire diameter, spring diameter, number of free coils and a calculator like this one- http://www.stockcarproducts.com/pstech10.htm The coils being held at each end don't count, so if you have 6 coils you have 4 free coils that do all the work. It will be interesting to see what spring rates you have and how it rides.