CorollaNut68

We B Driving! Started first bump...idling about 800. I found the big honking washer that was supposed to go on the cam in the first place. Feels pretty smooth. I had also found a broken spring in the dizzy. Thanks guys. Now I have to replace the leaf springs. If not for the "helper" springs I put on, the leaves would be bowed the opposite way. I found when we replaced a set on a 1962 Falcon that they are the same width and I'm going to just swap a couple of those leaves with a couple of mine. EVen the worn out ones from the 62 will be better than mine right now. I figure if they were designed to hold up a 3/1/2 ton car one or two ought to help keep mine up and maybe not be too stiff. Another experiment in progress...

Well, let's see how this goes...I still have a little smoothing to do and take the pin down a smidgen til it's dead flush. Welded the pin in, filled it in and ground it, yep cast is a pain. I gotta get the dremel to finish it, I knicked it up with the bigger wheel. Would it be better to shorten the pin more? It seems like the factory pin only went halfway through the gear. It's ugly but should be functional. Wednesdays are short days at work, I'll see if I can get it together tomorrow afternoon and see what happens.

$208 U.S. by FedEx approximately but you're "out of area". Is there somebody you use down there that does international? I wouldn't want you to have to go find a FedEx office if there's not one in town. They'll deliver there for an extra $34 but I don't know if they will pick up. I should know good or bad on what I'm doing by the end of the week.

Hey Rob, I will weigh this one and see if I can figure the postage and what size box. I would need a zip code or whatever you use to get an estimate. Mine is 72210. This is what I'm planning for the moment because I want to be driving this weekend. I got the leftovers out of the hole, I've deepened it slightly with a matching size bit (making sure I stayed centered) to give the hole a bit more strength and I'm going to use a piece of the shaft from this chrome vanadium screwdriver as a pin and weld it in and fill in the gap, grind it smooth and should be...should be...good. We've got a good wire welder. Except for that breaking problem this cam has no visible wear at all.

I guess I'll be doing some welding this week. Apparently when I bought this cam (that I'm fixing) it was the last one in the known universe. I went to order a new pin, bolt and washer from a Toyota dealer, you can still get those....bolt is $2,30. Washer is $2.11. Pin is $1 $6 worth of tiny parts that would fit in an envelope. They want $20+ for shipping........ I laughed. I think I paid about $6 for shipping my new alternator and it's a tiny bit bigger and heavier than a single bolt and washer.

Well, dragons! That sucks Pete. Thanks for trying. I'm in Little Rock Arkansas Kickn

Welding isn't out of the question. I'll try to get a picture tomorrow. The pin hole is now more of a channel to the outside edge. If it wasn't outrageously expensive I figured a new or unbroken cam would be safer. I'll have to find another pin or make one, fill the gaps in and grind em off. Any problem with it getting out of balance maybe? That's the main concern of my buddy with the welder. As I said...my last ditch effort will be to spot weld the gear directly to the cam and hope it's the last time I need one so I'm not pulling this one out until I have a solution in hand. The car should outlast me the way things are going. I'm going to see if i can magnet the lifters out so i don't have to order new gaskets and pull the head. and would like to keep the new standard bearings in too, they only have 300 miles on them. Really hoping to just slip this one out, slip a new one in and be running in an hour. We have a really strong bar magnet that I may be able to just stick to the side and hold all the lifters up at the same time while I slip the cam out. If it works I'll let ya know. i hurt my back the other day and haven't made it back to the big shop at my buddy's house. I can barely make it to my smoking hole, I mean my workshed, where I do important work, outside. From looking at it it seems to all boil down to, the big washer I used failed, wasn't thick enough, the gear tried to ride over the pin and pushed it out the side. When you have to put stuff aside for months, and move them around, things come up missing. That will definitely be remedied. I would have thought the pin I made would have been weaker than the solid steel cam. It was just a roll pin with a piece of a nail in the center that tapped into place. I even put a pound or two extra on the bolt torque. the bolt was still tight but the washer was bent. I think a hard shift into 2nd may have set it loose, it died about a mile later.

Thought I would move this to it's own thread. I need a cam for a 3K. I can't seem to find one in the US and am hoping one of you guys can help. Gotta get rolling again. The engine is all stock, I already have standard bearings in and hope to keep them if possible and not have to tear down any further to change the cam. The pin broke out the side of the cam. Maybe someone has one laying around still in good shape and can stick it in the mail? If anyone can help, please let me know. ^sad music starts^, (picture a save the animals commercial in your head)... Look at this poor sad rolla...chained to a driveway...left in all kinds of weather...birds doing their business all over it...it 'cam' not go anywhere though it dreams of the open road it once ran. Your contribution can help save this poor rolla who's just one part shy of freedom.

You guys rock! Keeping my fingers crossed. Something custom would be ok as long as it's not too lumpy for a stock daily driver motor. I've got standard cam bearings in it right now, it would be best if I could just slip another cam in and not have to change them. The one Camshaft place I can find around here only works on diesels...the 18 wheeler variety.

Apparently they are now. they came in Corollas up to the late 70's as late as '79 I think, but they also had the T motors from the early 70's up. And yes, V8's are everywhere. Like I said we just did a 65 Mustang...ordered a crate 302 ci ready to bolt in and crank up with high rise intake and a few goodies inside...everything but the block is chrome...about 350 hp...$3500 after shipping. Want to put a 700 hp LS engine in your El Camino? There's a kit for it, just sprinkle money on it. Need parts for your 1955 Ford flathead V8? No problem. Want to keep your 50 year old Toyota running? Good freaking luck. I blame Toyota for trying to coerce me into buying a new car by refusing me parts. Is customs going to stop me if I make a trip down under, trip over a K motor, stick it in my backpack and try to leave with it? (I think I could stuff one in a duffle bag and call it my carry on luggage don't you?)

I thought I got this one from RockAuto but I've looked back 4 years and can't find an order for it. I know welders, if I can't find a shop that does cams regularly. I'd have to get something for a new pin and weld it in place and fill in the gap..it's really not much. Maybe I'll win that new welding machine from Finnegan's Garage on YouTube. As many K motors there are still in the world it seems someone would have done an aftermarket or there would be stock versions stacked in somebody's warehouse. Sigh....I just had to get hooked on an obscure little car that never became a collector's item. I could build any year VW beetle from scratch out of catalogs. We just did a total ground up resto on a 65 Mustang....3/4's of the original body is all that's left every other piece, nut, bolt, and washer is brand new...you can get ANY part brand new. 69 Chevelle? Yep. Whatever you want. Plus custom parts, upgrades, conversion kits.................arrrgggghhhhh. But where's the fun in that?

I did manage to find a mechanical one, made a big difference. Thanks for all the help. Then other things happened. Now I need to find a 3K-4K camshaft and it's looking like I WILL be paying postage from Australia if I can even find one. US seems to be completely out, even tried a place in Japan and all I hear is "discontinued". The hole where the pin goes is broken out. ( i don't know how either, it was running beautifully, almost got to work and it died coming to a stop sign, barely clattered and then wouldn't start. Put it on 8 before TDC and the rotor was a quarter turn ahead, pulled the cover and found the broke cam pin. My car has demons. If I can get it running again I may take it to get it exorcised and blessed. Then I'll run 50/50 holy water in the radiator. Who still sells cams? If all else fails I'm considering welding the gear on and hoping I die before it needs changed again.

Glad you're on the subject of cams I just need to find a stock cam for my 3k but the US seems to be entirely out. The wiki says they're all the same so I'm searching 13501-22010...supposed to be Toyota part number for a '77 3K-C Which is cheaper shipping Japan or Australia? Anybody got one laying around they could throw real hard? It's only around 9600 miles away...should be easy. It looks like $190 US before shipping is added from RHDJapan. I'm still waiting on confirmation they even have it. The pin was sheared a few months ago, got the leftover out, made a new one that seemed good, rebuilt the entire engine, new everything but the cam, it was not very old and lobes still looked perfect....got 300 miles out of it and the damn hole in the cam where the pin goes broke out. It died quietly though so it didn't screw anything up, just went a little out of time. My other option is to put it back together, weld the damn sprocket to the cam and hope it lasts me til I die and someone else can worry about it. Really tired of borrowing mom's Yaris though it's cool that it goes right where you steer it...my rolla just takes suggestions.

I'm still all original but many times rebuilt 7000. Go go Banjo! That dang internet is a handy place. I've already got a 30 amp relay powering a block for driving lights, radio, amplifier...I don't want to run any extra stuff through the original wiring. It's only on when the ignition is on so you can't save channels on the radio but it also doesn't trickle my battery down. It's bad enough in the winter when you have to choose, heater, headlights or wipers, it doesn't like to run all 3. Luckily the heat will flow with the blower off if you're moving. It's almost 50 years old now...probably time to clean the wiper and heater motors up a little. I'm going to try and get the mechanical Monday but I'll be saving this drawing. I've probably got 2 or 3 pumps around here that I've replaced in 30 years but the gas we're getting is getting worse and worse. It'll say "up to" 10% ethanol but I'll bet it's higher.

Thanks for the info, seems it's not just bolt in place. The oil pressure cutoff switch seems like a good idea, would a "momentary switch" be good for priming? Only works while pushed. This is what comes up on RockAuto as a replacement, and to me looked like it just went on the fuel line somewhere along the frame. Under the hood somewhere was what I was hoping, my right side frame and firewall are mostly open as my steering is on the left. The original glass bowl is there but no filter in it, I've got a filter inline between that and the pump. they never seem to go dry so I thought a pump mounted on the frame below the glass bowl would have no problem staying primed. it would be below the level of the fuel tank. It's pretty noisy up front already as I can't seem to get that perfect valve adjustment like I used too. I do the 1's open adjust 8 method. I'm wondering if my replacement pin on the cam has let the gear move a smidge. It did not fit perfectly tight in the hole on the gear. If it did that would make everything just a tiny bit late. I torqued the gear and then a tad more, I may have to pull the timing cover to ease my brain.