altezzaclub

Where yours says "advertised valve timing 295deg" mine says "270", and where your lift is 0.4118 & 0.4091, mine is 0.3965.... So yours should be quite a sporty high-revving cam. Set the tappets at 14thou like they say, and if you want it revving hgher close them down to 12thou, or a smoother idle open them to 15thou. I found their 16thou recommended gap on mine too wide and the tappets rattled, so I'm running 12thou.

How much for a new one compared to going electronic?? The electronic ones are $120 odd I think it was, they're for sale on here somewhere.

There are some bargains to be found, but a very nice, granny-spec rustfree one with less than 150,000km should go for $1500-2000 odd. By the time you get to well-worn but almost rustfree, still registered and on the road they are a grand, and anything rusty or no rego is worth nothing. Autos are usually in better condition as P-platers tend to thrash their manuals to bits. Buying inland helps with rust too, the ones out here in the Central West don't have rust at all.

Hmmmm.... Anyway, we know who to avoid- Cheers Twinky --------------------------------------------------------------- Ah- its a hoot to read, and he's on here as well as Ebay & AE86DC! http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/69094-Scammer-Mickey-Scuter

Are you still going to use the carb?? I don't suppose there is any need to except to utilise the throttle body. The only unit I've had experience with was on rob83KE70's Dyna, and he had an evaporator and pressure diaphram feeding into the carb. Send him a PM or email & have a chat. With the turbo you need one of the vac diaphrams with two lines to it, one from before the throttle and one from after it, so you are still reading the pressure difference across the throttle plate. In the end its easiest to take the vac off and run just on mechanical advance.

Nope- its just the water from (petrol + oxygen -> CO2 + water) and the soot from running rich when cold. If you are actually losing water from the radiator or it does it when warm then it could be a problem.

Ah. OK, the straight six. They carry an inherent problem of being longer than a 4cyl, so put more weight over the front axle & upset the balance of the car. That makes it harder to get the best handling for corners, but f you're into drags it probably helps. Almost ANY motor with much more power will need a complete change of drivetrain, clutch, gearbox, driveshaft, diff.. the lot- and nothing bolts up to a K motor except a K gearbox as far as I know. How about the 4Y motor?? 4cyl 2.2L, made up to the early '90s and out of the Hi-Ace vans. If you're looking for easy torque that will be a simpler conversion than the straight 6, and the motor is still basically a big K engine..

The water is getting hotter, but the frogs don't notice.. Everyvun MUST be a criminal! This is the creeping tyranny, from a trial of sign-posted speed cameras that ticketed the top 15% of speeding subjects, to hidden cameras that fine everyone over the limit. ..and now the limit is coming down! My speedo has an 8% error, the norm is about 5%. The tolerance has been 10kph since I got my licence in 1965. New Zealand news-

lol Evan.. you mean this problem- Nik, there are several Holden V6 motors in Corollas on here, but turning the Camry motor around would be a pain.

Well done! Subtle problems like those are the worst. The engine mounts on the Daewoo Nubira (we were given for free... says a lot! ) were so badly designed it would pull the top radiator hose off. That taught the family to drive smoothly..:laff:

Its just the diaphram inside that has developed a hole. Check and see if the diaphram is still a part available.

Sorry, you're right Taz, the Skyine was NA, so it sucked the water in. The washer pump could pump under pressure, but I think Dave's setup is more elegant. That way the pressur varies with boost and you don't need an extra pump.

Carbs I don't know, but we used to do that to the exhaust when rallying. Tune the exhaust & have it exiting in front of the rear wheel, out the side. Then put a plate over it so it goes out through the muffler at the back to drive to the rally and back. Mate had the pipe sliced open on both sides under the passenger's floor with a section of pipe over it. He had a cable going inside that he pulled while waiting for the stage to start, and that pulled the outside pipe down the tube and opened it up.

They will remain unknown.... :laff:

When I went back to NZ in '86 I worked for a guy who prepared rally/race motors until I got a real job. (Jamie Aislabie in Rotorua) In those days turbos were pretty new on the scene, & he had a Honda Prelude with a home-built turbo setup and water injection. When the turbo came on boost it started a windscreen washer pump that fired water into the inlet through a syringe. He said it stopped detonation and allowed higher boost, simple and effective. I ran a water injection system on my Skyline a decade later just to help it burn cleaner and last longer, a needle into the vac advance port that sucked water in from a second washer bottle..

OMG! There must be such a demand for those motors they can ship them out in boxes without ever fitting them to a motorbike!

But of course! You can calculate spring rates here. http://www.stockcarproducts.com/pstech10.htm Coils that sit on the seat or are touching the next coil are not 'active', so count the coils in between. The stock springs we took off the KE70 were free height front 363mm, rear368mm The ride height was front 635mm, rear 645mm The short springs we replaced them with were front 335mm (one coil off) rear 342mm (one & half coils off) The ride height was then 610mm both ends. The suspension is firm, almost stiff, I wouldn't want it any harder. More choppy than the Altezza, which is what 20years of suspension engineering does!

If you can take the old one off you can fit a new one easily enough. This is the arm from the pivot up to the windscreen wiper blade is it??

lol! its automatic.. when you type certain words it displays something else. I think m i n t becomes over-rated... :laff: Lovely car, don't do anything to it that can't be put back to stock. In 10years there will hardly be a KE70 left on the roads.

I don't know about the RX7s, but anything that has a coil rear end will be a starter. Common ones seem to be Skyline or Hilux, but I'd expect they all need mounts cutting off and welding on again. I'd get it running with what you have first and see if it all stays together. You can get an LSD for your T series diff without adding a lot of extra weight to the rear axle. - this is the FAQ/Wiki page http://www.rollaclub...ferential_Gears

My favourites link goes straight to "view new content". If I ever end up on the real front page I'm completely lost!! :laff: i'm happy to keep the FS topics in there, I look through the odd one now and them & dream... I probably never would otherwise as I'm not hunting anything specific.

Noo!! ! I'm afraid I grabbed the wrong one off the shelf last night! The YZZD2 is for my Altezza, the 4K ones I have are 90915-10003, for 4K and 5K series. I'll go back up and edit my earlier post.

nice- I see the Courts in the USA are arguing over whether the Govt can demand your encryption key from you. I've just heard about a smartphone app that pretends to be a wireless router and copys all the data as it goes through, so I think this is getting to be important.

yeah- poor little 1300 doesn't need much at all. If its not a racecar you never even fill 2" really, I start at 2" and go to 1& 3/4" after the resonator.

We used to get a Mini rear brake limiter from the wreckers & drill/tap the end of it. Then we would fit a bolt with a "T" piece welded to it in that hole. When we wound it in it would push against the limiting spring, increasing the pressure that the rear brakes were fed. That way we could sit in the car and alter rear brake bias in a special stage. So if your rear brakes are going to be too big, fit something like that where you can dial in the amount of pressure going to them.