altezzaclub

haha! you might be driving it around as an old man still waiting... Have you seen the 4K with the 4AGE head fitted on here?? 9000rpm on a 4K bottom end!

ouch! RX8 territory... every tofu delivery boy will have one!

Anywhere will do... A fat one off the starter mounting bolt back to the body, then from there to the battery, or starter straight to battery just like the +ve, with a 6mm or 8mm wire from the body to the -ve. I set it up like this: red is +ve going under the radiator to the starter, yellow comes off the motor to the battery -ve, and green goes from the body to the -ve. The rest of the wiring comes off the starter +ve terminal where that red cable bolts on.

Shamelessly lifted from lewrockwell.com

That doesn't sound like the starter return!! There should be a strap from the motor to the body or battery that is the same thickness as the battery +ve to the starter. That is the one that carries all the current. Anyway, I feel your problem doesn't lie there... If your new voltage regulator is wired correctly, the problem is probably in the alternator with sticky brushes or a dud diode. Do you still get 14volts with the headlight & aircon/fan on?? Where does the wire with the inline fuse go?? Is it the yellow/white line that goes to the ign light? Although there is no fuse in these diagrams.... I'm afraid my KE70 has a built-in regulator, so I haven't worried about one for years.

How much power do you want and how much money do you have?? I'd go Altezza 3SGE, but it won't be as cheap as a Nissan. The trouble is the Nissans are all getting old now, so the motor will likely need a rebuild before you use it. At least an Altezza motor is 10years old and probably done under 150000km. I'm afraid RWD 4cyls are a dying breed! You'll end up with a fat four from a Subaru...

That's what we did Scotti, plugged it in and it all worked, so all the wirng must be in the dash loomb.

The main earth going to the head is a good idea as it carries the current that the starter motor pulls, back to the battery. That load is far greater than any other circuit, so having fewer connections in the line is good. I ran mine onto the block when I moved the battery to the other side. The body earth carries the lights and ancillaries. You could take a multimeter and measure the resistance from the engine to the battery & from the body to the battery to check that connections are clean and tight. Is the battery going flat?? Can you put an ammeter between the battery & its leads to see if there is a small current being drawn all the time?

Lol ! If it is, you are dead right!

So that's what you would have to be able to alter to match the increase in pressure when it hits boost... I suppose you use a map on an ECU that controls electronic injectors, just like petrol.

Well, if you're keen grab the KE70. All the parts are there, just swap everything over, then sell the straight panels off to get your $200 back. Sell the AE71 gear for a profit to anyone wanting to do a 4AGE swap. All the Ke70 owners need the pedal box/hydraulic clutch/crossmember etc to fit a 4A in.

Does that mean it is just sucked in normally at almost zero pressure, or it is pressurised at the vapour pressure of the LPG evaporating?

Ask one of our Finnish members... There are two or three on here. I suppose an option would be to upriht or even lean the motor the other way and use DCOEs straight in!

I've seen them, but they are spread around different sites. This sort of thing- http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/archive/index.php/t-209.html Keep Googlin'

I wouldn't know, but you will need to compensate for the varying inlet pressure as you pump the gas in. I'm not sure what pressure the gas will be delivered at, but say its only 20psi.... That gives you a certain flow rate when it is going in at say, 2000rpm cruise, but when you are cruising at 3000rpm it might be pushing in against 7psi. That will cut down the flow rate of gas and lean it out. So you will need to add your boost pressure to the back of the gas flow somehow. Its the same problem as boosting on a carb, if you don't enclose it in a box you will blow the fuel backwards up the jets. If the gas goes in at 60psi, then 10psi of boost won't be so crucial. Looks like there is a lot of research to do.

boosted I think the diagonal link would be so long the arc it traveled through would not bind the leaves. In theory, if it was set up horizontal, it would pull the diff towards the drivers side if it went up or down, but that would only be a couple of mm or so, far less than the rubber bushes and springs flex normally. In reality it wouldn't be horizontal at rest, it would aim down, so it would pull the diff towards the driver's as it dropped and push it away as it rose. The thing I'd think about carefully would be the stress on the one chassis mount. Then again, with a 4K it wouldn't matter, you'd never develop enough power to stress it!! :laff: If you went drifting it would give the mount a hard time... but, drifting with a 4K?? Knock one up and try it parrot, it sounds simple enough to make.

Have you got around to checking the points gap & timing? It might fire up easier with a bit more advance, the 4K seems to run quite happily with 10 or 12deg advance. I suppose you will be up for different grades of oil for summer and winter in the motor and gearbox, like the tyres....

The electronic ones are new ones for the 5K in Toyota vans, there's a few in the for sale forums up to $135 new. Mine was a straight-forward bolt-in for the 4K, I assume the earlier K motors will take them no problem. If the acceleration is flat compared to what it was you have to change the springs inside to get a faster advance curve, a legacy of the Hi-Ace van origins of some of them. The spark plugs can go out to 35thou gaps and they clean up a lot of little low-speed misfires with a much fatter spark. I fiddled with mine to get it where I wanted it, now its great. Post #57 onwards in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45

Where yours says "advertised valve timing 295deg" mine says "270", and where your lift is 0.4118 & 0.4091, mine is 0.3965.... So yours should be quite a sporty high-revving cam. Set the tappets at 14thou like they say, and if you want it revving hgher close them down to 12thou, or a smoother idle open them to 15thou. I found their 16thou recommended gap on mine too wide and the tappets rattled, so I'm running 12thou.

How much for a new one compared to going electronic?? The electronic ones are $120 odd I think it was, they're for sale on here somewhere.

There are some bargains to be found, but a very nice, granny-spec rustfree one with less than 150,000km should go for $1500-2000 odd. By the time you get to well-worn but almost rustfree, still registered and on the road they are a grand, and anything rusty or no rego is worth nothing. Autos are usually in better condition as P-platers tend to thrash their manuals to bits. Buying inland helps with rust too, the ones out here in the Central West don't have rust at all.

Hmmmm.... Anyway, we know who to avoid- Cheers Twinky --------------------------------------------------------------- Ah- its a hoot to read, and he's on here as well as Ebay & AE86DC! http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/69094-Scammer-Mickey-Scuter

Are you still going to use the carb?? I don't suppose there is any need to except to utilise the throttle body. The only unit I've had experience with was on rob83KE70's Dyna, and he had an evaporator and pressure diaphram feeding into the carb. Send him a PM or email & have a chat. With the turbo you need one of the vac diaphrams with two lines to it, one from before the throttle and one from after it, so you are still reading the pressure difference across the throttle plate. In the end its easiest to take the vac off and run just on mechanical advance.

Nope- its just the water from (petrol + oxygen -> CO2 + water) and the soot from running rich when cold. If you are actually losing water from the radiator or it does it when warm then it could be a problem.

Ah. OK, the straight six. They carry an inherent problem of being longer than a 4cyl, so put more weight over the front axle & upset the balance of the car. That makes it harder to get the best handling for corners, but f you're into drags it probably helps. Almost ANY motor with much more power will need a complete change of drivetrain, clutch, gearbox, driveshaft, diff.. the lot- and nothing bolts up to a K motor except a K gearbox as far as I know. How about the 4Y motor?? 4cyl 2.2L, made up to the early '90s and out of the Hi-Ace vans. If you're looking for easy torque that will be a simpler conversion than the straight 6, and the motor is still basically a big K engine..