altezzaclub

Pushing slightly on the clutch pedal will- A )- load the thrust bearing, and if it is dry it may suddenly stop making a noise. B )- Push the crankshaft forward against its thrust bearings, although that less-than-mm movement shouldn't make any difference to the serpentine belt. Pushing it further down will disengage the clutch, stopping the gearbox input shaft spinning and silencing any bearing or gear noise there. If the noise was just from the belt then touching the clutch shouldn't make any difference. Pull the clutch lever back away from the presure plate and see if it makes any difference.

Go take the cable off & fiddle with the selector rods going into the gearbox, picking each gear one at a time & trying them. That will eliminate the clutch and the gearbox as problems. Then all that is left are the selectors, and somehow the cable or arm distances must be incorrect. Are any of those joints adjustable? I've never worked on a FWD gearbox setup..

Dead right! Don't touch the front, it looks great. The colour looks good too, the wheels against the body. Very nice!

ooh look! A REAL front fence! Mesh with razor wire on top! I suppose freght costs would prevent us bringing a couple over. It would be nice to find a rustfree two-door with a factory-fitted 2T.

Tough one.. no-one repairs electrics these days, but your best bet is some retired electrician who used to work on electric motors. Try a few appliance repair places and ask if they know any retired guys, and some industrial electric motor repairers. I'm sure they can be rewound easily enough, you just need the wire and the knowledge.

lol- just as I posted it up it went off the air! Pick another channel...

http://www.ustream.tv/channel/bathurst-12-hour A few versions available on ustream. Subaru WRX just swallowed something solid into the turbo, it might get back out, but Audi are in front in the main class.

All you need is the DC volts set on 20V to read a 12V source anywhere, and the resistance to read ohms for checking for full circuits. All the other stuff doesn't matter on cars really. So if you're wanting to see if a wire is live, put a probe on it somewhere where you can touch the wire itself, some juction say, and the other probe on a clean metal part of the body or motor for earth, and it will show you how many volts re in the wire. If you want to know if one wire is joined to another, put it on ohms and put a probe on each part that you want to check between. A good conductor will have less than 10ohms, a broken circuit will have infinite ohms. (might show 'E') Start by checking between the head and the battery negative, that will tell you how much resistance there is for the starter motor power getting back to earth. If a bulb doesn't work check 12V between the wire bringing the power in and earth on the body.

As I understand it, you don't need an outer shell with two-piece bushes like Nolathanes. The originals were one-piece, consisting of an inner steel tube, an outer steel tube and 'Metalastic" rubber injected molten in between them, so the rubber has to distort to let the suspension go up and down. The outer tube was a press-fit (with a hydraulic press or a vice) into the LCA, the inner tube gripped by the bolt. The Nolathane bushes I've worked with are just pushed into the LCA, usually just a smack with a hammer does it. I think the inner steel tube rotates inside the plastic when the suspension moves up & down. Does that agree with what other people have seen?? Heath, have you got the right bushes that fit neatly??

Service- Check tappets, check points, check timing, make sure dizzy weights are free and rotor swings in both directions. Check-tighten nuts on inlet and exhaust manifold & carb base. Change oil & filter, (use genuine Toyota filter) check diff & gearbox oil levels, look for leaks, check air filter, maybe brake fluid if it looks dirty, & check fuel filter. Lube door/bonnet/boot hinges and latches, spray lube the rear leaves where they rub. Clean everything... take a weekend or two, but then you know its been done and you'll find any odd things that need attention. Buy tools you need, like a dwell/tach meter & a timing light & feeler gauges, they will last you all your life.

Go over the whole car underneath. look at every bolt and see if there is any looseness or distortion. Check the suspension joints and steering joints, driveshaft & look fo brake leaks. Keep an eye out for rust while your under there and check the tyre tread wear. Do it every six months and learn as you go. if it is dirty & greasy & oily get it steamcleaned. Mate bought a KE wagon for the GF recently, and she had a fence post jump out when in a paddock. However, when we had the guard off we found the chassis rail was a bit of metal vaguely riveted on and sprayed black then covered in dirt... It always pays to crawl underneath & look at everything!

Any 20W-50, the last one being Motoguard which I think is Repco's house brand

Yes, you buy a triangle pivot that turns a push into a pull and mount it on the tappet cover. Most old cars had rods for the throttle instead of cables so they pushed. This linkage marked in yellow between the carbs needs to be adjustable. The two screws in white set the idle for each carb, and when you're happy with that you then adjust the center link until they open together. The guy who did the conversion to cable may have ruined that.

I made up the linkages I needed, but there isn't much room between Webers as I remember, that's why the cable pivot goes on one end. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Want a Gemini?? I've just had a back massage from a lady I've never been to before, and in the back of the driveway is a really nice looking bright red Gemini with 16" wheels or so, sitting a little lower than usual and no plates... It belongs to one of her sons who is up North painting, and she's been at him to get rid of it but he didn't want to sell it. Finally he changed his mind, & so far he's moved it out of the shed. The paint looks great with no dents or rust at first glance. I know a lot of guys love the old RWDs and this looks like its been done up well, although I don't have any details. Let me know & I'll get in touch with her again next week... you might have to forgo the modern mod-cons...!

That photo is too small to tell, but they should have a linkage in there. The cable goes onto one outer end and between the carbs there is a U-shaped lever with a spring & a screw on one carb intersecting with a lever only on the other. The 2nd lever goes between the spring and the screw, which is how you set the throttles to match each other. If they're not there I'n sure you can buy them from Redline or similar.

hmmm... if the milky oil is related to the new problem then its leaking water into the oil drain areas and out through the gasket... That's only likely if he head didn't go down properly. So its quite likely the water in the oil is there from the last time. It would be pretty near impossible to get it all out without stripping everything and flushing the block. What is in there should evaporate out on a good long run. What are the options? Block cracked? Head cracked? Head gasket sitting on a bit of shit? Anyway- head off again for sure and just take a look. At least you know you can do it all and it will run afterwards. I've just had to do the Altezza after some crap problem caused soot in the cylinders and jammed the exhaust valves open. I'd never touched a modern 16valve injected luxury car, and was quite thankful when it all ran smoothly afterwards!

They are small though- I thought a Corolla was more a Mazda 323 equivalent. A lot of Glanzas got into NZ, the Starlet GT turbo. Great for single young people. I have the Altezza, the KE70 & the Pintara R31 wagon. (ignore the Datsun P510- not rego'd) The White Whale sits in the driveway and the wife likes to drive it, so the Pintara does all the shopping. I like to drive the KE70 so I use that when I can. The Altezza is more serious and not as easy to zip around town in, so it does the trips. They've each got some of your features.

All here- Good luck reading it, it has been written by people who are using money stolen from you to spend as much time as possible at their desks writing words! http://www.infrastru...n/vsb_ncop.aspx

True- you pay a lot for the name and the reliability. But that's why Holden & Ford are cheaper! :laff: We paid $2500 for a SSS N14 locally here, rust-free of course, runs well. small dent in front from kangaroo... The son picked it up at Xmas and its being driven around Melbourne without any problems. Its just sad that the models after that are so ugly!

nooo...!! :( Did you skim the new head? Block was scraped dead clean?? Is that literally coming out where the gasket is between the block and the head, not some little bypass tube or something??

Welkom in! Coast or veld??

Yes, its an addition to the compost.. If I burn the woody stuff I get the minerals only as ash, the carbon and the volatiles go out as CO2. If I compost it the woody bits stay whole and very slowly (over years) rot down and give off the CO2. So this way I lose the volatile organics but keep the carbon. I've been using a couple of those black plastic Daleks from Bunning for compost, but last year I built a proper concrete block one about the sze of an office desk.. The chookens love it and it can easily be forked over, so it composts much quicker Grow some tomatoes in pots next spring.. easy to do and the taste is great! Tonight's food- just eaten the salad before this, but this is all out of the garden except the chop! The grilled cheese is one of my wife's home-made ones.. (Don't askI just eat what I'm given!) That's half a gem squash, a South African plant that is delicious. The spuds are from the feral garden, where I threw the excess seed potatoes in the 'swamp' and covered them with dry grass. They grew OK, but not as big as the ones that we planted in a dug garden, the soil was too hard I think.

Go side-draught... Single DCOE or SU. Rob has the same problem putting the 3Y into his Dyna. The design over the top of the carb is terrible.

Well, now you've got the compressor you can clean the carby. Its basically in three parts, the top (which contains the float) the main bit in the middle (which has the jets in & the float chamber) and the throttle body. (the black bit at the base with the throttles in) You should check the float level & clean the needle & seat in the top, and take out the idle jet and blow compressed air through it and its drilling in the main body at least. That will eliminate two possible problems. If you PM me your email address I'll scan those pages from my manual for you. If you can find a 4K manual they are very good for learning how all the systems work. I've never been trained as a mechanic, all my knowledge is self-taught or picked up from mates.