altezzaclub

Ah- so you've got most of it done! The best pushrod is the one that makes the rocker sit at the stock angle, & I don't know what that is. I assume it sits upwards slightly when the valve is shut, goes through the horizontal and points down when the valve is fully open. That walks the rocker tip across the valve top correctly, and what you don't want are rockers started off pointing down and going further down so they run off the edge of the valve stem. With a ground cam you have the rocker moving through a greater angle anyway as it generates more lift. Someone will have done it and know what works, but check them carefully anyway. I like the idea of a single DCOE, they can easily handle a 3K or 4K without needing twins.

My KE70 is 114, same as my Datsun 1600... Stud diameter is the same 12mm, but thread pitch is different so wheel nuts don't swap. The ROH wheels I have are drilled 17.2mm holes, but most mag wheels are 18.4mm. So they need shanked nuts on the 12mm studs, and 17.2mm shanked nuts are non-existent around the wreckers... Howver Ford Courier 4WD studs do fit and are 5mm longer for alloys instead of steel wheels. There is a lot to go wrong swapping wheels...

haha! I'll bet your name is mud with your sister now! You've ruined her new baby! Start with what TE27 said, doesn't matter if you use new or the old parts, just check the points gap, & the timing and look for a wire on the wrong place or loose or almost broken. Pull the leads off while the motor is running and see if each cylinder responds the same. Having one cylinder crap out is quite a different problem to ahving all 4 run badly. If the electrics all seem fine start on the carb. Put points and condenser on there if you haven't already, and loook at the wires in the dizzy carefully. Wiggle the wires on the ballast resistor while its running too and make sure that's not the problem.

You've got a good plan there- are you going to strip the bottom end this time around? I found it easier to lift the whole motor out, whip the head off for the mods I did and tip the motor over to do bearings. I didn't take the pistons out so I never had it al balanced, and now I wish I had! It would also have been good to have dipped the block and cleaned all the shit out of the water jackets. As it was the oil sludge on the crankshaft nipped the edges of the new bearings and siezed them when I bolted them in, so I ended up having the crank professionally cleaned. Take a look at the rocker faces where they rub on the valves and see if hey are grooved. If they are you might as well get them machined if you have to muck about with rocker geometry and pushrod length, as it will make setting tappets a lot more accurate. If the Weber has been dry then fill it with fuel now or soak it in a big tin of gas to soften the tar inside. Strip it and squirt petrol though each jet and drilling with a syrige before you use it. Don't forget to run a bolt down each hole to make sure the threads are clean and smooth before you bolt it all back together. What we did is here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Usually the more they rip your sinuses apart the stronger they are! ..and any that wank on about envirnmentally safe and green are weak. But really you need to try a couple, unless you ask a panel beater/spray painter. The best have phenol in as an ingredient, the next best have perchloroethane or trichloroethylene. They might have ingredients listed if you're lucky.

Mine sticks out about 4mm and is easy to push back in. That's almost new so if yours is less than 2mm I'd say its pretty gone.

OK- picture.. this is the model after yours I'd say, it has the square diaphram accelerator pump and not the piston on an arm. The needle and seat need to be very clean, and they come out of the top part of the carb. The jets are where the air is drawn in, the vertical ones in the center, and where the fuel is drawn in, in the bottom of the bowl. There are one of each for each carb throat as I remember, but I haven't seen a stock carb for a couple of years. The idle mixture is the tapered screw in the base, easy to remove and hose solvent into the hole. There's no reason to pull enything else apart, basically look for any brass fitting, undo it and squirt solvent down the hole. The syringe full of petrol worked great with my Datsun carb last month, it had been dry for years and was full of gunk in the drillings.

1. Well, it doesn't do much just spraying it in. The top of the carb unscrews, the accelerator pump pulls off and the action parts are in the middle section of the carb. The bottom 1/3 is where the throttle butterflies are. The float, the needle valve and the seat are all in the top part. 2.. So long as it runs quietly.. mine idles at 1000rpm, which is quicker than the stock 750rpm, but the twin carbs and the cam do that. 3. Yep- that is the contact that presses against the rotor and takes high voltage from the coil lead to the rotor so it can distribute it to each plug lead. It is just carbon and wears away slowly, making a mess of everything and causing short circuits. 4. Google image it. It is a capacitor that charges while the points are open and discharges when they close to give a good current through the coil and make a fat spark. If it leaks the power away through the insulation the spark is weak. They last for years but slowly degrade, so its a good idea to replace them when you replace points. 5. Yep- you can do it without a light, just set the crankshaft on the 8deg timing mark and turn the ignition on. Take the dizzy cap off & loosen the clamp a little, and rotate it first backwards a whisker then forwards. As the points open you will see a spark and hear a 'crack'. Do it a few times to get it just where the spark occurs, and that means it will fire at 8deg BTDC. I think the only difference is in the anti-pollution gear on the 4K-C, but look it up. Just Google it and Wiki or someone will have it. I hope you have watched all of these http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mJHc3YjwPQ&feature=related

Jets are easy once you take the carb top off. I use a syringe full of petrol to squirt down them. When you buy points, buy a condensor too, and feeler gauges or a dwell meter if you don't have them. When you fit them be careful abot how the terminals carry power to them from the coil, as nothing must earth out around the insulated screw. When you've finished fitting them and set the gap, turn the key on and touch a screwdriver across the open points. You should get a spark and an audible !zap! sound. If you don't there will be a short somewhere.

Most unlikely.. they supply fuel for the motor at idle and up to a couple of thousand rpm, when the main jet takes over. So if it idles for 10seconds it should idle forever. The smoke coming out from the air filter sounds like a backfire into the carb, so the spark has arrived at the wrong time or an inlet valve is not sealed.. I assume that is just as it dies, it coughs and pops back up the carb and stops. If the electrics are sorted it only leaves the carb. Have you stripped the carb and cleaned all the jets yet?? Do you have a partly blocked jet that is causing it to run lean, or an air leak, so when you accelerate it has no power and dies, or do you have a spot of fibre under the needle and seat so it fills the bowl up with petrol and floods it when its idling??

We've had a wagon for a couple of years now, got given it free (all rego'd & on the road) as the lady couldn't get anyone to buy it. They have a few "characteristics"- the handbrake is pathetic, part of the usual rear disc problem. They surge under slight acceleration, probably tied up with the oxy sensor because if you disconnect it you stop the surge. Diff whines like a bitch, usual BW rubbish. It has a fuzzy rattly sound when cold, but I think it is meant to, it doesn't sound like a bearing or a piston slapping. Don't forget to change the driver's side spark plugs, they are the main ones and the pass side ones are for emission control. I've wired both coils together and fire both plugs at the same time, but the pass side ones are still black and shitty, I think they are in a dead spot of the head. Mechanics often just change them as the driver's ones are hard to get to. Its our daily runner for 5km trips around Orange and its been to Qld a couple of times. I assume you've joined SDU and antrx.com. The White Whale is on there.

That information is gold! So often people don't write down what they actually had to do for a conversion and they are never as simple as they seem.

Well, you will need a battery charger, unless its parked at the top of a hill! ..or another car to swap batteries with. There is no doubt that you will flatten the battery trying to start it over time. So if the problem is in the electrics we have- Wiring.. a broken or partly-broken wire anywhere from the key to the dizzy via the coil. Check the wires that you can see for weak spots or breaks where they join terminals. A multimeter would be good to see how much resistance there is getting from the coil to the battery negative. Coil.. weak coil=weak spark. All you can do is swap it for another. Ballast resistor, if you have one.. that may not be feeding enough voltag to the coil. Its meant to drop the 12v to 9v for running but go back to 12v for starting. You could cut it out of the circuit & try that. Points.. no doubt checked and gapped. Don't forget to check the wiring inside the dizzy and that wire going into it carefully. Condenser.. weak condenser=weak spark. Again, all you can do is swap it for another. Dizzy cap.. cracks show up as black lnines where carbon and oil collects in them. A spray with brake cleaner and a scrub with a rag sorts it out. Then spray with WD40 or 556. Plug leads.. including the one from the coil. Bad insulation shows as green sparks flaring around at night, especially a wet night. WD40 or CRC 556 usually fixes it temporarily. Plugs.. the gap gets wider as they get older and the spark is harder to fire. I'm sure Teddy checked most of that, but if you've missed anything go take a look.

Round bit of thin steel with one of those fancy magnets to hold it on! :laff: Any at the local wreckers?

Weber carb with kit off here or Fleabay, cam grind, extractors, head skim and valve cleanup... damm, that grand's just gone! Really, a 5K or a bored-out 4K with those parts would be better by a long way.

Ah- Dear old Photobucket... so this is now replacing the thousands of images marked "This image has been moved or deleted", as they deleted people's accounts! Now they are trying to push everyone to pay for the free service they advertise.

Typical of a weeping head gsket... hard to start until warmed up and the plugs are dried off, then fine all day. Next day hard to start... Hopefully its not that- retarded timing is another one, so I hope you did points and timing and checked for a fat spark at the plugs while you were fitting the new plugs. A bad condenser would give a weak spark that wouldn't fire a cold mixture but will manage when warm. Choke works OK, can you see that it does?? ..and when it is warmed up and driving it goes fine, accelerates well with no flat spots?? Such as a blocked pump jet would give? Although you can see the pump jet spray fuel down the carb by eye. That's not good.. if the spark was good and fuel was being pumped in it should backfire or at least fire a cylinder or two. I'd say check point gap, timing, plug spark, choke and accelerator pump and see what you can find.

I figured that too, although I couldn't see the steering wheel to make sure... I'm sure all T corollas are liftbacks here, we never had T-series sedans did we? ..or the 2door sedans they got in Europe. Jake you probably have a whole different range of cars to us for parts , and they all have different components in them too!

It should be OK, but it depends on what city you are in... you know more than we do about how honest people are around you. Make sure he puts a good bolt back in if your one is rounded off from the spanner slipping, and that he doesn't do it up too tight. When I get tyres done I always make sure they use a spanner on the wheel nuts, not an air-driven hammer socket. That way I can always undo them later.

OK, here is what mine looks like. There are no nuts, the short bolts go through the bellhousing and into the thread of the starter motor. The top one I get by putting a 14mm ring-open spanner on it, using the ring, and hook a 17mm ring spanner onto the open end of the 14mm by its 17mm ring. This gives me more leverage and I can swing it a small amount from the driver's side towards the passnger's side. ie clockwise when looking from the front of the car, anti-clockwise if looking from the back of the car. You could get a long socket bar and a 14mm socket in there I reckon. Then we have pictures from underneath, where you will have to swing a socket on an extension. From underneath you will looking at the bolt from the back of the car, so it undoes anticlockwise. Is yours the same? Which bolt & why won't it come out?? Head smashed? Too tight to turn? Can't grip it?

Springs depend on what you want to do, softer for traction and stiffer for sliding. If you want to go drifting then stiff is best, but its really a job for a shock shop to match springs and shocks so they work together. The nice thing about the Skyline diff conversion is that you can get an LSD fitted, the KE70s biggest failure. They are also prone to whine (a fine Borg Warner local product!) like the KE70's diff, so you may have to get it checked if you can't drive it first.

It must work, Rollaclub runs well and is very civilised. ..and those threads do bring out the best in people's humour!

Well done! That makes any chance of a head gasket problem unlikely, it seems to have been in the thermostat.

The starter motor may be fine, but the solenoid that activates it has contacts that carry the high current, and they do burn out. You could rejoin the fight to remove it and take the starter into a shop to have it checked, or you could pay them to fight it out of the car. The auto electrician will tell you what its worth to fix or buy a reconditioned one. If you're in a capital city in Aussie there are probably members near you who know about these things. Make sure you discnnect the battery before sticking a spanner under there!

Is it electrical or machanical?? If its electrical I'm sure you could bypass it. If its a mechanical valve it would need to be replaced.