altezzaclub

1. Well, it doesn't do much just spraying it in. The top of the carb unscrews, the accelerator pump pulls off and the action parts are in the middle section of the carb. The bottom 1/3 is where the throttle butterflies are. The float, the needle valve and the seat are all in the top part. 2.. So long as it runs quietly.. mine idles at 1000rpm, which is quicker than the stock 750rpm, but the twin carbs and the cam do that. 3. Yep- that is the contact that presses against the rotor and takes high voltage from the coil lead to the rotor so it can distribute it to each plug lead. It is just carbon and wears away slowly, making a mess of everything and causing short circuits. 4. Google image it. It is a capacitor that charges while the points are open and discharges when they close to give a good current through the coil and make a fat spark. If it leaks the power away through the insulation the spark is weak. They last for years but slowly degrade, so its a good idea to replace them when you replace points. 5. Yep- you can do it without a light, just set the crankshaft on the 8deg timing mark and turn the ignition on. Take the dizzy cap off & loosen the clamp a little, and rotate it first backwards a whisker then forwards. As the points open you will see a spark and hear a 'crack'. Do it a few times to get it just where the spark occurs, and that means it will fire at 8deg BTDC. I think the only difference is in the anti-pollution gear on the 4K-C, but look it up. Just Google it and Wiki or someone will have it. I hope you have watched all of these http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mJHc3YjwPQ&feature=related

Jets are easy once you take the carb top off. I use a syringe full of petrol to squirt down them. When you buy points, buy a condensor too, and feeler gauges or a dwell meter if you don't have them. When you fit them be careful abot how the terminals carry power to them from the coil, as nothing must earth out around the insulated screw. When you've finished fitting them and set the gap, turn the key on and touch a screwdriver across the open points. You should get a spark and an audible !zap! sound. If you don't there will be a short somewhere.

Most unlikely.. they supply fuel for the motor at idle and up to a couple of thousand rpm, when the main jet takes over. So if it idles for 10seconds it should idle forever. The smoke coming out from the air filter sounds like a backfire into the carb, so the spark has arrived at the wrong time or an inlet valve is not sealed.. I assume that is just as it dies, it coughs and pops back up the carb and stops. If the electrics are sorted it only leaves the carb. Have you stripped the carb and cleaned all the jets yet?? Do you have a partly blocked jet that is causing it to run lean, or an air leak, so when you accelerate it has no power and dies, or do you have a spot of fibre under the needle and seat so it fills the bowl up with petrol and floods it when its idling??

We've had a wagon for a couple of years now, got given it free (all rego'd & on the road) as the lady couldn't get anyone to buy it. They have a few "characteristics"- the handbrake is pathetic, part of the usual rear disc problem. They surge under slight acceleration, probably tied up with the oxy sensor because if you disconnect it you stop the surge. Diff whines like a bitch, usual BW rubbish. It has a fuzzy rattly sound when cold, but I think it is meant to, it doesn't sound like a bearing or a piston slapping. Don't forget to change the driver's side spark plugs, they are the main ones and the pass side ones are for emission control. I've wired both coils together and fire both plugs at the same time, but the pass side ones are still black and shitty, I think they are in a dead spot of the head. Mechanics often just change them as the driver's ones are hard to get to. Its our daily runner for 5km trips around Orange and its been to Qld a couple of times. I assume you've joined SDU and antrx.com. The White Whale is on there.

That information is gold! So often people don't write down what they actually had to do for a conversion and they are never as simple as they seem.

Well, you will need a battery charger, unless its parked at the top of a hill! ..or another car to swap batteries with. There is no doubt that you will flatten the battery trying to start it over time. So if the problem is in the electrics we have- Wiring.. a broken or partly-broken wire anywhere from the key to the dizzy via the coil. Check the wires that you can see for weak spots or breaks where they join terminals. A multimeter would be good to see how much resistance there is getting from the coil to the battery negative. Coil.. weak coil=weak spark. All you can do is swap it for another. Ballast resistor, if you have one.. that may not be feeding enough voltag to the coil. Its meant to drop the 12v to 9v for running but go back to 12v for starting. You could cut it out of the circuit & try that. Points.. no doubt checked and gapped. Don't forget to check the wiring inside the dizzy and that wire going into it carefully. Condenser.. weak condenser=weak spark. Again, all you can do is swap it for another. Dizzy cap.. cracks show up as black lnines where carbon and oil collects in them. A spray with brake cleaner and a scrub with a rag sorts it out. Then spray with WD40 or 556. Plug leads.. including the one from the coil. Bad insulation shows as green sparks flaring around at night, especially a wet night. WD40 or CRC 556 usually fixes it temporarily. Plugs.. the gap gets wider as they get older and the spark is harder to fire. I'm sure Teddy checked most of that, but if you've missed anything go take a look.

Round bit of thin steel with one of those fancy magnets to hold it on! :laff: Any at the local wreckers?

Weber carb with kit off here or Fleabay, cam grind, extractors, head skim and valve cleanup... damm, that grand's just gone! Really, a 5K or a bored-out 4K with those parts would be better by a long way.

Ah- Dear old Photobucket... so this is now replacing the thousands of images marked "This image has been moved or deleted", as they deleted people's accounts! Now they are trying to push everyone to pay for the free service they advertise.

Typical of a weeping head gsket... hard to start until warmed up and the plugs are dried off, then fine all day. Next day hard to start... Hopefully its not that- retarded timing is another one, so I hope you did points and timing and checked for a fat spark at the plugs while you were fitting the new plugs. A bad condenser would give a weak spark that wouldn't fire a cold mixture but will manage when warm. Choke works OK, can you see that it does?? ..and when it is warmed up and driving it goes fine, accelerates well with no flat spots?? Such as a blocked pump jet would give? Although you can see the pump jet spray fuel down the carb by eye. That's not good.. if the spark was good and fuel was being pumped in it should backfire or at least fire a cylinder or two. I'd say check point gap, timing, plug spark, choke and accelerator pump and see what you can find.

I figured that too, although I couldn't see the steering wheel to make sure... I'm sure all T corollas are liftbacks here, we never had T-series sedans did we? ..or the 2door sedans they got in Europe. Jake you probably have a whole different range of cars to us for parts , and they all have different components in them too!

It should be OK, but it depends on what city you are in... you know more than we do about how honest people are around you. Make sure he puts a good bolt back in if your one is rounded off from the spanner slipping, and that he doesn't do it up too tight. When I get tyres done I always make sure they use a spanner on the wheel nuts, not an air-driven hammer socket. That way I can always undo them later.

OK, here is what mine looks like. There are no nuts, the short bolts go through the bellhousing and into the thread of the starter motor. The top one I get by putting a 14mm ring-open spanner on it, using the ring, and hook a 17mm ring spanner onto the open end of the 14mm by its 17mm ring. This gives me more leverage and I can swing it a small amount from the driver's side towards the passnger's side. ie clockwise when looking from the front of the car, anti-clockwise if looking from the back of the car. You could get a long socket bar and a 14mm socket in there I reckon. Then we have pictures from underneath, where you will have to swing a socket on an extension. From underneath you will looking at the bolt from the back of the car, so it undoes anticlockwise. Is yours the same? Which bolt & why won't it come out?? Head smashed? Too tight to turn? Can't grip it?

Springs depend on what you want to do, softer for traction and stiffer for sliding. If you want to go drifting then stiff is best, but its really a job for a shock shop to match springs and shocks so they work together. The nice thing about the Skyline diff conversion is that you can get an LSD fitted, the KE70s biggest failure. They are also prone to whine (a fine Borg Warner local product!) like the KE70's diff, so you may have to get it checked if you can't drive it first.

It must work, Rollaclub runs well and is very civilised. ..and those threads do bring out the best in people's humour!

Well done! That makes any chance of a head gasket problem unlikely, it seems to have been in the thermostat.

The starter motor may be fine, but the solenoid that activates it has contacts that carry the high current, and they do burn out. You could rejoin the fight to remove it and take the starter into a shop to have it checked, or you could pay them to fight it out of the car. The auto electrician will tell you what its worth to fix or buy a reconditioned one. If you're in a capital city in Aussie there are probably members near you who know about these things. Make sure you discnnect the battery before sticking a spanner under there!

Is it electrical or machanical?? If its electrical I'm sure you could bypass it. If its a mechanical valve it would need to be replaced.

True, but $140 is two tanks of gas & I'd probably never use them again. Like the ratchet ring spanners I'd like to have but can't justify buying...

Here is the factory wiring diagram. The green dots show the low beam R/G wire has a junction at the dipswitch that goes off to the blue light. Flick to high beam and the power in the low beam wire goes through the blue light. Now, inside the dipswitch is a stack of copper fingers with contact buttons on, attached to the wires and controlled by a plastic column with steps on it. The fingers are drilled so they only get moved by some steps. In the 'rest' position, the lights are on high and power from the stock R/Y high beam is earthed. The column does nothing. When you pull the dipswitch back towards you it pushed the plastic column forwards and lifts the high beam finger off the earth, simultaneously pushing the low beam R/G onto the other side of that earth finger. When you pull it back again to flash your lights, even though they are not turned on, it earths BOTH sets of lights AND connects the stock headlight relay to earth which powers the lights. If it goes wrong, it can be fixed, although be careful of the plastic getting brittle. One other thing I found.... there is an unused headlight connector behind the driver's headlight, and if you plug a 3rd headlight bulb into it THE BLUE LIGHT WORKS!

Ok, with this thread revival I did some more work on things that niggled me about this conversion.The original diagram had a drawing of the three pins at the back of a bulb, labelled COM, HI, LO, which is the 'common', the power supply, (red/black wire R/B) and the pins taking power back through the 'high beam' filament (red /yellow R/Y) or the 'low beam' filament. (red/green R/G ) Now, I reckon they had this wrong. They have the LOW opposite the COM on the plug, with the HIGH on the top tab. Here is the diagram and a picture of my passenger's headlight plug facing towards you. It will plug into a bulb with the HIGH opposite the COM. This is important, as their wiring diagram in the top left corner is correct. The blue 'high-beam' light doesn't work when on low beam, as the low beam bulb earths out through the same wire. However when you switch to high beam, the power in that line goes to earth through the blue light and it shines. Without using the stock low beam circuit we need to fit that diode & resistor to make it light up.

If you have a 0-100deg thermometer around the house use that. Before you start it up remove the rad cap, put in the thermometer an let it idle until hot. Check the thermometer against the dash gauge now and then. If it is head gasket you should see it at the same time. With the thermostat in (in case you've taken it out!) fire it up without the rad cap and watch for flooding over and bubbles coming up over 5minutes. The moment the water gets warm to touch the test is over. What happens is the bubbles can't get past the closed thermostat very easily so expand downwards and push the water up from the bottom of the rad, then they come out. Once the thermostat opens they just bleed out. Not like the foam you had when you drained it at all, and if it was blown you would notice that you lost the top couple of inches of water but no more. If you filled the rad, you would lose it again, but then no more. If it can hold the temp at the halfway mark then the cooling system should be fine.

If it is suddenly working now it suggests a bad connection on the starter that you have inadvertently fixed. At least you now have some experience for the next time it happens. Idle speed doesn't burn that much fuel unless you spend a lot of time idling. You will see the screw at the end of the throttle linkage on the carb, screwing it in just opens the throttle a bit. I can't photograph mine for you as I gave it away & fitted SU carbs. Along with that is the idle mixture screw, which determines the fuel to air ratio at idle, and you should set that to give maximum idle speed before you set the idle speed screw. Wind the mixture in and then out in half-turn amounts to pick the fastest smooth idle speed, (with a warm engine) then adjust the actual idle speed screw to get it where you want it. Over heating is a separate issue, you may find your motor is running around the maximum capacity your cooling system can handle. That could be from a dirty radiator, poor thermostat, worn water pump, incorrect gauge or sensor.... you would need to do a bit of checking of the components to see if each is OK. Start a new topic on that if you think its a problem. Just a question- does your car have bolts and nuts on the starter motor, or just bolts that screw into a thread??

Take the thermostat out and try running the car without it, although if it is half-open when you take it out of a cold motor you have probably solved it. Head gasket also crossed my mind, but that is usually accompanied by starting problems or losing water. Can you pull the plug leads off one at a time when its running rough and see if it is one cylinder only?? That would be a step forward, although it will probably die each time you pull one off.... Also- if you leave it idling and keep it running, does the fan hold the temp steady?? That would mean the cooling system can handle maximum heat output. -or take it for a run up some steep hills then let it idle at the top. The halfway mark temperature shouldn't be all that much of a problem to the motor if the gauge is reading correctly, but it it is only going to halfway at 95deg it could mean trouble.

Do you want to go downdraught or sidedraught. The sidedraught DCOE will perform better, but will need a new inlet manifold to fit it. The downdraught DGAV are quite common 2nd-hand and the adapter plate kit can easily be boght new to fit it onto the existng inlet manifold. You could run anything from 30/32 to the usual 32/36, depending on what you can find at a wrecker- almost any old Euro car or English Ford. Someone on here has a 28/30 they are using I think. Alternatively a 40DCOE would do with 35mm chokes, like the 1275 Mini Cooper.