altezzaclub

This week after Easter is when I'll head to Cairns, probably Friday, Saturday and Sunday, about 750km a day. Google reckons the shortest way is through Walgett, Lightning Ridge, stay in St George, next day through Roma, Emerald, Clermont to Belyando Crossing, and the last day goes through Charters Towers to the sea and then Townsville to Cairns. If you're on the route I might get time for a quick cup of tea or a beer...

Shoot him a message and see. I always get distracted by the motor sounds... just think of going down the road in a KE70 sounding like this! http://billzilla.org/BRM-pushstart.mp3 http://billzilla.org/BRM-loudpass.mp3

Extractor are still being made brand-new, the blue 4-into-1 that end in a 2" pipe like mine appear for sale quite commonly. I don't remember who makes them. Cams... you really need to drive a couple of guy's cars to see what cams are like. I listed the torquey cams when I was looking, as I wanted an easy daily-driver for the daughter. I've got the Crow 606 grind, a 270deg like Tighe's 113 grind, and I added Tighe's comments about their grinds. If you want to fly, there are lots of hot grinds I didn't list here, up around the 280-285deg. Find someone's build you like the look of and PM them for which cam they used. I've never changed the coil, but I've fitted the electronic ignition which is definately better than the old points system. So a stock coil will pump 30,000volts OK, much better than its 13,000volt stock loading. 10:1 compression is fine, but don't use 91octane any more! That's about a 20thou skim, but you will need to measure combustion chamber volume on your motor. Carbys.. cheapest is 32/36 Weber downdraught and an adapter kit. Better would be a single DCOE Weber 40, but you need a new manifold and the carb iself costs more.. you're likely looking at $500 there. Twin SUs are fine, but the Lynx manifold went out of production a few years ago. Occasionally they turn up on here for $300. The SU carbs are also on Minis and Volvos so their forums have them, but getting the Lynx manifold is the trick. I'd take the DCOE or the SUs over the 32/36 any day. Start looking now, go back through the for sale ads and ask people if their SUs/Weber sold from last year sometime, chase the other Toyota sites too, put up wanted ads and see how you go in a few months. Lots of guys have carbs sitting on their garage shelves, I have a pair of SUs in bits and I know Rob has a pair on a manifold but he's never put them up for sale. Here's extractors- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/59491-eoi-4kc-ready-webber-3236-and-extractors/page__pid__595892#entry595892

Much reading to be done... the ratio of fuel to air is vital for burning petrol to get maximum power. Both fuel and air amounts are controlled by brass jets with holes drilled to an exact size. What jets suit one motor will not suit another motor, even in the same carb. So if you fit an aftermaket carb you usually have to change the jets to suit your engine. 260deg cam is quite mild, like mine, I'd expect you to have something wilder, up around 270-275deg. I had Crow grind mine, but there are plenty of other well-known grinders, and each company has a range of grinds for each motor. You can grind a cam for 280deg and drive it on the road, but 300deg cams are race use only.. More reading to be done! You need a resonator under the passenger's seat, after the extractors. That's it, end of story.. you NEED a resonator under the passenger's seat, and a muffler at the end of the exhaust pipe. 32/36 is a downdraught so will always lose out to a DCOE as it has to turn the air through 90deg. Options are a single DCOE, twin DCOEs, twin SUs , quad carbs from a motobike. But 32/36 is cheap! 4K pistons will do what you want the car for.

Well, assuming your car is the same as mine, I change oil once a year, although it doesn't do a lot of Km. Make sure you have the PCV connected up and working, as that sucks the water vapour and fuel fumes from inside the motor and burns them. I was quite careful to hook it all up correctly on my twin-SU conversion, and I think a lot of guys ignore it. You will only know if you are pouring petrol in there when you do the L/100km check. If you are using heaps of gas then it will be time to look at the float level in the carb. The plugs will also be black if it is running rich. Quite likely there is nothing wrong with it at all. What parts have you been putting on?

Isn't the cam just a "send of & grind it" job from one of the half a dozen cam grinders around? Do you need a specialist inlet or is it like the K motor with just an adapter plate fitted to the stock one?? If you're up for a new manifold you might as well look at a single DCOE as an option too.

Well, if 1/4mile is the main thing in your life, start specialising in it. Work out which diff ratio you need to get off the line cleanly and still minimise the gear changes. Make sure the final gear you're in is pulling max power just at the end. If the car is going off the road then you can lighten it a lot, right down to where we cut the door hinges into hollow shapes with an Abra file, just leaving the rim to hold on the single-skin gutted door with a plastic window. More power comes from narrowing the rev range, so bigger cam and bigger carbs, and less driveability. When Nissan sponsored us we could have their factory engineer build a motor, and that really flew, so there might be a lot left in the motor that someone can find for you. 17sounds terribly slow, but I'm sure I'd need a clock not a stopwatch if I tried my car!

Fuel always gets into the oil and dilutes it, so its not good for it. When you go on a long drive for a day the motor always burns a lot of oil, but when you drive back it doesn't. That's the fuel and water getting burnt out by the higher constant temperatures. The best thing would be to calculate the fuel consumption in litres/100km and see how it compares to factory figures. Fill it up and zero the trip meter until you fill it up again when its empty. Should run around 7.5-8.5L/100km, depending on how short the runs are and what the traffic is like. Also check the spark plugs and see how black they are. Cruise at 90kph for a while, then push the clutch in and turn it off immediately, so you are looking at the plugs as they were at 90kph, not idle. Then check a plug some other time after slow-speed driving and idling.

Electronic dizzy burns clean, but the advance curve was too slow when I got it. The inch & 3/4 exhaust works fine, I don't spend all my time at 7000rpm so I don't need a 2". It all depends on what you want to spend on it. Carb is the expensive part if you don't use a Weber 32/36 so if you don't want to spend more than say $2grand you won't have side draughts. A single DCOE Weber would be good, but the down-draught will do the job until you getthe conversion done and it looks stock. EvanG modded the stock air cleaner to fit the Weber, no-one would ever know. LCAs and rear sway were both good mods for what they cost.

yep- self-adhesive door seal for houses. You can vaseline over the sides of it once its stuck on, tends to pick up fine dirt but it waterproofs it well. Red stripe looks good!

Usual stuff, carbs and cam and a head skim. If the motor is worn bore it out to take 1500cc 5K pistons. Lighten the flywheel & balance all the rotating gear. The 2" will be wasted on a stock motor. I never touched the pistons, just did the rest. Works beautifully... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Catch as much of the "fuel" out of the exhaust as you can, and put it in a sealed little jar, a test tube would be better. If you can finally get say, 10cc or 20cc, let it sit for a day and then look at it carefully before you pour it onto a sheet of paper. Then set fire to it... I reckon it will be water.

First problem would be the amount of throw you get using a push sytem on the KE70 instead of a pull. I suppose you measure how far the clutch pedal moves at the height you want to use it, then calculate the diameter of the master cyl you need to move enough fluid to get the slave to work... If it can throw as far as an AE71 then you'd be right using the same cyl. It would be terrible to do it all and find when you push it to the floor the slave doesn't move far enough to disengage the clutch. There were two AE71s at Cowra wreckers a week ago. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/59102-5-corollas-cowra-wreckers/

Yes to the engine light, but I don't know what 'plater' is a typo for... Can you extract error codes?

Book says 0.2mm & 0.3mm, so yep. Not tappets. Timing drifting through bad points?

Woo! That's not right! OK, that 19mm bolt holds the fan belt pulley onto the crankshaft and should be TIGHT. In fact 65NM, the same as the cylinder head bolts. You should have the car in 4th with the handbrake on and swing on that bolt, preferably with a torque wrench. Hopefully you meant the belt was loose and not the bolt in the crankshaft! If it doesn't turn the fan belt, it suggests the belt is too loose. There should be about 10mm deflection if you push on the belt with your thumb, or you hear the belt squeal any time you rev it.

It should run after you fit new points, however the change in points gap alters the timing, so it need to be re-set. One side of the points burns to a hollow crater, depositing metal on the other side which grows to a volcano. That's why you file points flat occasionally, or replace them, or get an electronic replacement that does away with points altogether. Now, the clamp is the bracket that hold the dizzy in place, it clamps it down onto the motor. If you back the bolt off you will be able to turn the dizzy left and right.. You don't want it loose, you want it just slackened off enough to turn the dizzy. The rotor turns clockwise, which you can check by looking at the plug leads, it fires cyl one, then cyl three, then 4etc. So each time it fires, a square corner on the rotor shaft opens the points then goes past the rubbing block of the points and they close again. So if you turn the dizzy clockwise, the same direction the rotor goes in, it retards the ignition timing. If you turn the dizzy (and hence the points rubbing block) anti-clockwise, it meets the rotor shaft corner earlier and advances the ignition. All you have to do is set the crankshaft pulley with its timing marks to 8deg or 10deg. Some cars have notches cut in the pulley at various degrees and one mark on the cam cover, some have one notch in the pulley and a series of marks on the cam cover. The KE70 has that. When you slowly rotate the crankshaft with the dizzy cap & the rotor off you can see the rotor shaft rotate and the points open and close. You want the crank to stop at 8deg by turning the motor clockwise, the way the motor usually runs. If you turn the crank backwards to catch that mark it will be out a few degrees due to the slack in the dizzy gears. In the photo you can see I marked the pulley notch with white and the 0deg mark so they are easy to see. Rotate the crank pulley until you have the notch at 8deg and the rotor pointing to number one plug lead. The crank notch will line up for number 4cyl too, but you might as well use cyl 1. With your pulley on 8deg you can turn on the key and rotate the dizzy clockwise so the points are just closed, then rotate it anticlockwise so the points just open. You should see the spark and hear it "crack". Move it back and forth a couple of times until you have it just open and no more. You probably won't even see the gap. Then tighten the dizzy clamp bolt up. You're done. Its dead easy and you can check it anytime with a timing ligt.

I'm tackling the odd jobs before I take it up to Cairns, so the extractors got some sealant where they join the pipe, the lights got sorted to give full-beam again, and the wheels got balanced. While I had the column apart chasing the full-beam lights, I fixed that damm bit of plastic that goes brittle and cracks. The one under the ignition key, where the screw retainers all break off, and most ones in the wreckers are like that. I filed the plastic flat, sanded it here and there and Araldited washers and nuts (for spacers) onto it. Now its back in and doesn't rattle. Passenger seats out next week & loaded with building and camping gear. A couple of months in an empty house amidst renovations means microwave, beer fridge, kitchen stuff, a bed, clothes, as well as a ladder, painting gear, carpentry gear, cleaning gear, gardening gear...

Ah- so you've got most of it done! The best pushrod is the one that makes the rocker sit at the stock angle, & I don't know what that is. I assume it sits upwards slightly when the valve is shut, goes through the horizontal and points down when the valve is fully open. That walks the rocker tip across the valve top correctly, and what you don't want are rockers started off pointing down and going further down so they run off the edge of the valve stem. With a ground cam you have the rocker moving through a greater angle anyway as it generates more lift. Someone will have done it and know what works, but check them carefully anyway. I like the idea of a single DCOE, they can easily handle a 3K or 4K without needing twins.

My KE70 is 114, same as my Datsun 1600... Stud diameter is the same 12mm, but thread pitch is different so wheel nuts don't swap. The ROH wheels I have are drilled 17.2mm holes, but most mag wheels are 18.4mm. So they need shanked nuts on the 12mm studs, and 17.2mm shanked nuts are non-existent around the wreckers... Howver Ford Courier 4WD studs do fit and are 5mm longer for alloys instead of steel wheels. There is a lot to go wrong swapping wheels...

haha! I'll bet your name is mud with your sister now! You've ruined her new baby! Start with what TE27 said, doesn't matter if you use new or the old parts, just check the points gap, & the timing and look for a wire on the wrong place or loose or almost broken. Pull the leads off while the motor is running and see if each cylinder responds the same. Having one cylinder crap out is quite a different problem to ahving all 4 run badly. If the electrics all seem fine start on the carb. Put points and condenser on there if you haven't already, and loook at the wires in the dizzy carefully. Wiggle the wires on the ballast resistor while its running too and make sure that's not the problem.

You've got a good plan there- are you going to strip the bottom end this time around? I found it easier to lift the whole motor out, whip the head off for the mods I did and tip the motor over to do bearings. I didn't take the pistons out so I never had it al balanced, and now I wish I had! It would also have been good to have dipped the block and cleaned all the shit out of the water jackets. As it was the oil sludge on the crankshaft nipped the edges of the new bearings and siezed them when I bolted them in, so I ended up having the crank professionally cleaned. Take a look at the rocker faces where they rub on the valves and see if hey are grooved. If they are you might as well get them machined if you have to muck about with rocker geometry and pushrod length, as it will make setting tappets a lot more accurate. If the Weber has been dry then fill it with fuel now or soak it in a big tin of gas to soften the tar inside. Strip it and squirt petrol though each jet and drilling with a syrige before you use it. Don't forget to run a bolt down each hole to make sure the threads are clean and smooth before you bolt it all back together. What we did is here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Usually the more they rip your sinuses apart the stronger they are! ..and any that wank on about envirnmentally safe and green are weak. But really you need to try a couple, unless you ask a panel beater/spray painter. The best have phenol in as an ingredient, the next best have perchloroethane or trichloroethylene. They might have ingredients listed if you're lucky.

Mine sticks out about 4mm and is easy to push back in. That's almost new so if yours is less than 2mm I'd say its pretty gone.

OK- picture.. this is the model after yours I'd say, it has the square diaphram accelerator pump and not the piston on an arm. The needle and seat need to be very clean, and they come out of the top part of the carb. The jets are where the air is drawn in, the vertical ones in the center, and where the fuel is drawn in, in the bottom of the bowl. There are one of each for each carb throat as I remember, but I haven't seen a stock carb for a couple of years. The idle mixture is the tapered screw in the base, easy to remove and hose solvent into the hole. There's no reason to pull enything else apart, basically look for any brass fitting, undo it and squirt solvent down the hole. The syringe full of petrol worked great with my Datsun carb last month, it had been dry for years and was full of gunk in the drillings.