altezzaclub

Well, I figure black smoke is too rich, so a dyno run or mixture display will soon tell you. If it wasn't really black smoke, then grey smoke would mean the rings are worn. If you could take it for a spin with a plug spanner in your pocket, just give it full throttle in 3rd then turn the ignition off at 4000-5000rpm.and push the clutch in. Coast to a stop and pop the spark plugs, checking the colour of the outside rim and the ceramic core. The edge can be black with soot but no oil, and the core should be white or light tan coloured. A plug cut like that means you are seeing what is happening under power, rather then at idle when there is no load on the motor. Idle shouldn't be set to 2000rpm, so either there is a fault they are trying to cover or something needs re-setting.

Is that the one where you could see the head lift on the dyno?

Ah- he would have it pretty right. I reckon float level or needle & seat must be just flooding petrol in there. It will be interesting to find out in the end.

OK, here's the translation of what your $12.5K buys..

Well, how much will you pay me to pull the 3SGE out of my Altezza and drop it into my KE70...?? Then I can tell you exactly!

How far out can they be? They would have been jetted for a 1600 or a 2L from factory. Take a look at what they are, The mains should be around 135-140 & the airs around 160-170

That will be interesting.... We'd love to see it, you might start a whole new conversion attitude with people preferring the cheap & easy 4AF.

Yup- Now, ":no compression" means you have measured it with a compression guage and got under 100psi I hope.. or is this just a thumb-sucking exercise??

Modify it for economy, not performance.. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Carbs, cam, exhaust, compression..

I can't see tuning it giving you 10l/100km off your 17! What are the plugs like?? Black as a coal mine? Might be the needle/seat leaking all the time or the float sunk.. grab some different jets off guys on here and try them.

You will only find out when you do it... The further forward the motor is, the less you will have to worry about the bell-housing fitting. Naturally that will make the handling worse.. I think you will have to cut the tunnel to fit the J160 in there, but not the firewall to fit the motor in.

Just bore your 4K out to take 5K flat-top pistons. Get your cam ground, buy some extractors and fit a Weber 32/36 or twin SUs. Its been done successfully and there are posts on here about it, and if you read filfredericks topic about his twincam 4K you'll see he took it out to 1600cc. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/51097-4k-twin-cam/page__p__522189#entry522189

Use the J160, chop the floor... its a drift pig you'll never rego anyway. Ratios are good and close! Couple of guys in Altezzaclub race other cars with the beams in. http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclub/index.php?showforum=39

How was it doing that? Don't they have a spherical end that rides along the reverse shaft? Sonds like something has broken and fallen off.

Sounds like carb as you say. I think its Dellorto's that have the chokes come loose in the body, so check that and then it will have to be a strip to check float level and dried out resin or dirt on the needle and seat..

Only if it is a leak into the manifold at #1, otherwise surely a fuel issue would affect all 4 cyls. If its twin carb then it would affect 1 & 2 cyls the same. Do what Trev says to start with and see if the misfire follows the plug or lead. The compression test should show up any valve problem, so there is not much else that can be causing it. What were the compression readings?

That's interesting- So is that running stock front suspension and stiffer, lower coils in the back with stock shocks and sways?? Understeerey would be expected if the tails now got more grip and the motor is never going to power-oversteer it, but it will be educational to add each component and feel the changes.

How did the Green Machine go?? I'm amazed that the Altezza diff head fitted the T-diff.. Toyota never change much at all.

Its burned the electronics out. Best to haul it back out & I"ll take it off your hands as a boat anchor.. :D

Actually, the best reason for using a 4AFE in a conversion would be their availability. I was wandering around the wrecker's today catching up with what he's got in recently and there must have been six 4AFs in cars and no 4AGs at all. So, more torquey around town, just as much hassle to change, probably not thrashed previously and cheap to buy....

Jack up one front wheel and turn the motor with a spanner until you've turn the wheel exactly half a turn. Then do the same to his and see if he gets the same engine turns. That will give you the two overall ratios, there may be differences in either the diff or the gearbox. Youy could try 4th on both cars if they all use 1:1 4th, that will give you the diff ratios. With one wheel on the ground the one in the air will turn twice as fast... I get 3300rpm in 5th in the KE70 on 14" tyres, and they made a big difference over the 13". Might pay to measure the distance each tyre travels over one rev, rather than usng the tyre calculator.

Bit of dirt on the seat under the needle. Strip it and see what you can find. If it didn't overflow before with that fuel pump, it shouldn't now.

It depends which country you live in. They're probably more TEs running around Aussie than AE86s, but most or all would be TE72s. A TE72 was for sale at my local wrecker's caryard last year for a few hundred bucks. I put it up on here but no-one wanted to drive it away. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/45466-rustfree-original-t18-for-sale/ In South Africa they were widely sold and were one of our main oppositions when I was rallying a Datsun 1600. I don't know if the quad lights would bolt in easily, but I'm sure they would it with a bit of work. Got photos of the one you are buying? What country are you in and how much is it worth?

Well, get under there! See if you can move the driveshaft next to the universal joint at the diff nose. Jam a screwdriver in there and push on it. If you can see movement that is NOT rotational, its probably rooted. The diff will have some play that will let it rotate back & forth. Then inspect the springs where they have bushes in at each end, and probably you will see that the shafts are not sitting in the middle of the bushes because the bushes have collapsed. Get new bushes and fit them. Check shock mounts top & bottom, just in case, and check the U-bolt nuts for tightness, but the chances are you need spring bushes.

Anyone know how to calculate spring rates here?? or measure from the ground to the top of the wheel arch to get some figures. or is this just a sort of "I'll swap you a fish tank for those Subaru springs to sack my KE.." Somewhere in the equation must be how hard the ride is, does it handle better and how does it look. With one coil cut off the front and 1& 1/2 off the back I've had passengers saying how hard the suspension is.