altezzaclub

This is KE70 stuff, but I expect it to be the same. The drawing shows how the lights work, an abysmal system where the relay puts power to both filaments of the bulbs at once, then selectively earths one filament or the other. You can see why you can have full beam by pulling the dipswitch back, it earths the relay & puts power to the bulbs, then also earths the high beam and the low beam together. So flashing your headlights should be both filaments at once. When you let it go and it moves to dip, it earths the low beam. When you push it forward again it earths the high beam only on the other earth point. The wiring diagram is where it goes in the car. The red/black is the main power wire taking power from the fusible link (8) to the relay, and then through the light fuses and off to each bulb, where it joins both bulb filaments at once. The relay is switched on by the dipswitch stalk being turned and earthing out the R/W wire. Now both filaments have power, you need to earth one of them to get light, and that's what the red/yellow or red/green wires do. The dipswitch is set up so it earths either dip or full unless you grab 'flash. The red/black power is obviously OK on your car, and the red/green dip. Seems like you have lost the whole R/Y line through a bad connection somewhere, assuming hte new stalk is working OK All you can do is trace those colours and see where the power ends. I had the same recently, but in my case a relay had died. I've wired mine around the other way so power goes to two relays and they work the lights, & they're MUCH brighter! .

new? recondtioned by auto-sparkie? ..or one someone had taken out because it went 'click' all the time?? One other "click" comes from the solenoid throwing the starter gear into the flywheel but it doesn't turn because the teeth on the flywheel are knackered. The motor usually stops in one place when you turn it off, so half a dozen teeth always get to do the work, and they get ground away. You just keep hitting the key and eventually it grabs a tooth and turns the motor. Tricky! I'd expect things to dim when the starter draws current, but not the brake lights to come on! I wonder if there is another wiring problem unrelated to the starter. If its pulling current but not starting then its time to pull the starter apart. Probably the windings are burnt out.

If the solenoid goes 'click' then the problem is probably after the battery wire joins the starter motor- either the solenoid has burnt-out contacts inside or the starter brushes are worn out would be the usual problems. Check the power to the starter and the earth return wires just in case they can carry current, but not enough to fire the starter over.. If the solenoid doesn't go click then you'll have to check that power is getting to the solenoid via its activation wire, so either the solenoid coil is burnt out if power gets there, or the ignition switch is faulty/wiring broken if power isn't gettting there. If you have to take the starter out you will appreciate how badly designed the 4K is!!

289deg is pretty wild, but all that means is that it shouldn't run UNDER 5000! :D The way I see it you have only 0.325" of valve lift, so its not going to stress the valve springs. Stock springs are OK to 0.4" plus a bit. If you can check that an inlet opens 40deg BTDC then the cam timing is fine and the problem is somewhere in the carbs. Check the float levels, make sure the jets and drillings are clean and do a plug cut when its dying on you. See if the plugs look suspicious when it bogs down, because with that cam it should fly high up. While you're sitting at the roadside pulling out plugs, take the top off the carbs adn see if its drained them or flooded them right up. You can't let the motor idle down, its a case of ignition off and clutch down immediately from hard power.

Just find a welding engineer, they should be able to weld anything. Plenty of guys specialise in welding steel more than 5mm thick, although I suppose that might be easier here in the country than the big smoke..

:POSTPICS!: ..and line diagrams!!

Did you pull the a/c out or was it a garage? Can you cheeck that the thermoswitch is wired in still and that it goes 'open circuit' when the motor is cold?? The switch might be faulty, or someone might have damaged it when removing the compressor & shorted it out...

Why is that Evan? I imagine very little happens in that first and last 50thou as the valves are closing or lifting off the seat, but the figures in the table do show that some cams are much more aggressive once they take up the tappet gap. That was why I picked the 606 grind for Orange's higher altitude, we need lift and less duration than sea level. Here's the hotter cams off Tighe and Camtech. Most the grinders don't list K motors on the web anymore... Seems that Tighe have low 50thou duration compared to their advertised durations.

Throw the Weber on and get it sorted before you sell the ute! They're the number one choice on here for a cheap replacement and a big improvement over stock. There was a post a few weeks back about jetting them to start with. I bought an adjustable reg for about $50 to cut the stock fuel pump back to a couple of psi for the SUs. It seems to work fine.

Well, I've got a 270deg cam, that Crow 606, and it doesn't feel cammy at all to drive. The idle is vey grumpy, but that is also to do with the twin carbs and maybe the leaness. It idles at 1000rpm. PM EvanG and see what he uses with his Weber, they're a pretty popular carb. The Tighe 104 is pretty popular on here I think. I'd say go with anything around 275-280deg, you can chase up the cam grinders I got that data off and see what else they offer. With a bit of luck you'll get comments on here from some of the guys who have tried more 4K cams that I have. If you have the motor out it is well worthwhile getting the flywheel lightened a couple of Kg and the whole lot balanced.

Well, lets ignore the noise part... So it will rev OK, but slowly I assume, if you use half throttle, but bogs down when you open the throttle wide?? That makes it sound more like a fuel problem, so over the carbs carefully, make sure it has pump jets working on both carbs, and see if you can learn anything from a plug cut as it bogs down. A dyno run or a drive with an A/F meter up the exhaust would show it straight away. If you feel the valve bounce noise is correct then go back to single valve springs, which will change the harmonic interference, and see if that makes a difference. Holden 202 springs are the usual alternative for hot cams.. In theory the nice new valve stem seal will hold the valve up when you take the springs off, but you can always put a cyl on TDC and have a compressor hose screwed into the spark plug hole.

Anything will run in a 4K, so long as you have the rest of the motor set up for it. You'll only know when you try it- Hopefully someone else has used one and you can drive their's. They lose low-down performance because the inlet valve stays open so long that fuel/air gets pumped back out as the piston comes up. Only when the revs get up and the airflow velocity increases does the air get enough inertia to keep filling the cylinder against the rising piston. That cam won't shut the inlet until about 80deg before the spark plug firing, while stock is about 115deg before the plug fires.

I collected these when I was looking at cams under 275deg. Lots of guys get hotter ones, but they do become difficult to drive in traffic if they're working properly. I picked the Crow grind because it opens faster than others, as you can see by the 50thou readings.

Those Hurricanes are the most common, I haven't seen any other designs for ages.

lol!! Dontcha just love sidecam motors!! Get that protractor out KE20King...

Just plumb both those tappet cover vents into a suitable-looking can with a little filter on top. Basically it will leak oil & water vapour out of that filter all the time unless you hook it up to the inlet manifold so the motor can suck some of the fumes in and burn them. So best would be to keep the PCV valve & run that line into the brake booster line in a T-piece and have the other line going to the filtered catch-can. Under cruise and idle the strong vacuum sucks the PCV valve shut so it doesn't suck out of the engine, so the small amount of blowby goes out of the catchcan filter into the atmosphere. Under acceleration the inlet manifold vacuum goes to nothing with the throttle open so the spring in the PCV valve can push the piston back and allow the inlet manifold to suck the greater blowby into the motor. Fresh air then goes IN through your filter and catchcan. I ran mine on the brake booster line for ages until Rob said I shouldn't, but t made no difference when I moved it. Then again, we have different ideas on how a PCV is meant to work too!

Clever- gives that extra height adjustment without losing the stroke length.

You'd need a programmable ECU I'm sure, feel like building a Megasquirt? How about quad bike carbs?

Ask him to explain.. is it his name on the ticket?

Which carbs? Which manifold? ..and does it have provision for a PCV inlet? I'm running twin SUs on the Lynx manifold & I run the PCV system. It can go into the brake booster line via a T-junct or into the inlet manifold. The other half goes tappet cover-air cleaner. A catch-can just takes one of the tappet cover vents into a coke bottle or whatever, (nicely transparent so you can see what comes out!) and block the other one off. When the motor is running hot vapour comes out, so you can stuff it with wire mesh or pot-cleaners to condense the oil, but when it cools down after you turn it off it will suck air back into the motor. That's why they sell litle air filters to go on the tappet cover vent. You can just run one vent straight to the air cleaner and burn all the fumes, environmentally better than a catch can! In the photo the yellow dots show the PCV line to the inlet manifold, and the green dots show the fresh air line from the air filter.

If it pumped too much fuel it would flood low down, and it won't starve because a 5K will haul better than that in stock form. I don't reckon its the fuel pump. Check the float levels, both up and down, and do a plug cut when it is playing up in 3rd so you can see what the plugs look like at those revs. Just turn the key off and push the clutch down until you stop. Can you get a dial gauge onto a rocker and a circular protractor onto the crank pulley. That way you can get exact degrees of when the valves are opening and closing. Its a pain to do, but it will show you if the cam is timed correctly. You only need to do one inlet valve and one exhaust, and if you don't ahve a dial gauge then you can feel with your hand when the rocker comes loose as the valve shuts, or suddenly tightens up as it opens. It will suddenly wiggle sideways, or stop wiggling. Was the cam cut for hydraulic 5K lifters or solid 4K lifters? I don't know how important that is, but I know there is a difference. Are you using an electronic dizzy?? Timing set OK and no points to bounce?

For the difference between 7000 and 9000 rpm you'd be quicker with a close-ratio gearbox, especially a sequential one! How well you get it all balanced will detemine how happy it is at peak revs too. If you're going to turbo it in the future, how are you going to reduce the compression over the forged pistons? Can that be done with a 4AGE head? Spacers under the head gasket?

Got a photo? Does the mounting shaft screw into the body or similar and make the fully compressed shock shorter?? That's quite intriguing as I figured a shock came with a certain fixed stroke length from the factory and it didn't matter where it sat at 'normal' height. The BC shocks that came up on Google were really short racing things.

Lovely example- the chrome bumpers look much better, that period of American laws gave us world-wide ugly bumpers!

Ah- just look at that steering wheel! You didn't need power steering in the good ol' days! Very nice!