altezzaclub

Nice work- I love cheap & easy! Higher pedal?

Looks good- Reads quick, but I'm sure there's years of work in there!

Here's how the dipswitch works, and the headlght wiring layout. Get a $10 multimeter and check where your 12V is going and where its not. The lights are powered first, then the dipswitch earths them. A stupid idea, you would be best to change them over and use the dipswitch to run two new $10 relays that then power the lights. They are MUCH brighter under that system, I did a writeup on it in my build thread. Red/White to the relay at PW turns it on. 12V goes from the fuse via the red/black through the relay to the bulbs. Power is applied to both beams, red/green & red/yellow, and either one is switched to earth back at the dipswitch.

We've blown up petrol fumes in the engine with an oxy torch in the past, the carbs had been flooding fuel down past the rings and we were bending a crankcase vent pipe with the gasaxe. All that happened was a large bang and the splash panel in the tappet cover was bent slightly as that is where most the oxygen was. Oil is very non-explosive in comparison. You could've cleaned it, slapped some tape over it and tried it, and if that worked you just put epoxy over the tape. Its the running over a driveshaft at speed that worries me!! Why wasn't that on a truck? A big red truck perhaps? A guy in NZ was beheaded by a truck UJ that came off and jumped through the windscreen...

Always makes me laugh.. some clown wanting $4000 for his KE70 photographed at night in a gas station with a mobile phone... They just have no idea at all!

This is my KE70 stuff, which should be pretty similar. Follow the diagram around checking for power with a multimeter and if you can't solve it then take it into an electrician. Now would be the time to completely rewire the system so the power does not earth through the dipswitch and it uses relays instead. The headlights are a lot brighter that way, the stock system is crap. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

If the tacho doesn't drop to zero when the motor is still turning, then check the carby needle and seat. A bit of dirt stuck in the needle housing will cause flooding and kill the motor with smoke and raw fuel smell, but the tacho will follow the revs down as it slows down with a dead engine. If the ignition system goes dead the tacho will go instantly to zero even if the car is turning the motor over.

Do you have a wiring diagram?? Does the power go from the battery to the switch to the headlight bulb to earth, or from the battery to the headlight bulb to the switch to earth?

I just wanted to pop this up while they're still doing the 7hr drive home! AMSAG Orange rally yesterday, 5 stages all 20-35Km long in brilliant sunny weather, the youngsters did well in what is basically a completely un-prepared rally car while his Dad & I serviced. Still you have to start somewhere and the car can only get faster! They came 20th & won the rookie award. Oh to be young & rallying again! insanity at work-

Concentrate on this, if you haven't got it going already. Sort out if power is getting to the solenoid activation wire, the small wire on the starter solenoid. Can you hear the 'click' from the solenoid on the starter motor when you turn the key? If power isn't gettng down there, (you can always put a test light or multimeter in that wire & turn the key) then chase it back up to the ignition switch itself.

:POSTPICS!:

Well, does 15psi boost flow twice the air that an NA motor sucks?? If atmosperic pressure is 15psi then I assume 15psi boost is 30psi absolute. If you had a 150bhp NA race motor, does double the pressure behind the air double the power? I suppose you need to look back in the days when they ran turbo 1500cc in Formulae One. BRM got 600bhp from their 1600cc, although I don't think its very comparable! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Racing_Motors_V16 ...and Nick Mason from Pink Floyd had one.... Just imagine listening to that sound any time you liked!

Plenty of cam grinds available, get the followers ground as well to wear with the new cam and usually they say fit special valve springs if the lift is over 0.4" A list of cams is in my build topic. The manifolds come up occasionally, I don't know if anyone makes them anymore, but it will be easier to give away a little performance and fit SUs, Weber 32/36 or a sigle DCOE, depending on what you can find. You'll need to raise the compression and fit extractors and a sports exhaust to make it worthwhile.

Got a timing light too? Changing the points gap changes the timing. Don't forget to put a touch of grease on the dizzy cam so it lubes the new points rubbing block. Also, make sure the base-plate rotates each way freely as that's how the mechanical advance is added. If it doesn't want to turn you can unscrew the whole baseplate then clean and lube underneath where the weights are.

Depends on the diff- 4.3 for auto (which we still run even with a K50) and 4.1 in a manual. I'd expect 3300rpm at 100kph in 5th with a 4.3 (too many anyway!!) Then again, I had 14" tyres on... nope- more than that! Play with this http://vexer.com/aut...-rpm-calculator

We welded a vertical bolt onto the extractors and bolted a bar across it to take the weight of the DCOEs. Put a couple of rubber washers in the joint to allow the vibratons to get absorbed and with the bolt thread its adjustable..

Good work! There's plenty to do for very little cost to make them a nice driver's car that keeps up with the traffic. That's all I've done on mine and its turned out well. Start looking for Corona lower control arms and a Celica rear sway bar, they both improve the handling. The motor improves with a cam and extractors and even just a Weber 32/36. The car stays looking stock and goes well. A boilermaker could fabricate some really nice gear... quad carb inlet manifold anyone?

Quite a few posts on what you need, you've probably seen them. Here's what we did- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Sounds like it- remember the ignition wiring dodges around the ballast resistor while cranking to feed full voltage to the coil. When you let the key go it then feeds power through the ballast resistor to drop the voltage to what the coil is designed for. (this is KE70, but I'd expect it to be the same) Lol- that diagram didn't have a ballast in it! I'll take a look for another one.

Sounds great! Have a chat to filfrederick about building his 9000rpm twincam 4K, I'm astounded at what the bottem end can take. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/51097-4k-twin-cam/ I assume you're using solid pushrods in the 5K head. Did the maths indicate massive ports, or is that head just for the valve size? It will be hard to cover such a wide rev range, but if you're in the game I'm sure you can access the right turbo. No chance of an asymmetric pair where the small one boosts low down then a bigger turbo takes over?

What town are you in? There should be rollaclub guys willing to put it together with you if you're in a city. Its not rocket science.

Phone him up and ask. The other option is the K electronic dizzy from the USA. Someone over there sells them for the KP61 Starlets, but its ages since I looked them up. Actually, they're probably in NZ too.

Unregoe'd and not running $600 Driving but not rego'd $1000 Rego'd & running $1500

Aha! Its a little dark, but The Captain dresses well! http://romanticallyapocalyptic.com/33 or maybe its more fun with brass mechanoids carrying machineguns and girls with big boobs! http://www.girlgeniusonline.com/comic.php?date=20041227

The fuel shutoff solenoid has died... No idle at all.