altezzaclub

T18s are nice, but this is the holy grail-

get one of these!

Oh- also make sure the points do spark when you open them, & check the points gap. Wrong points gap will affect performance and they wear shut, or a broken wire or poor condenser will stop it sparking well. Seeing one dizzy wasn't sparking there may be a wiring problem.

OK- First, you need to take note of which way the dizzy turns. Then look inside the oil cap and watch the rockers to get number 1 on TDC. Cylinders 1 & 4 come up together so the crankshaft timing marks look the same for both cylinders, but obviously the dizzy has to know the difference. You can just see the number 1 inlet rocker in there and it needs to be stationary as the crank swings through the last 45deg of rotation. If it is busy closing, then keep turning another full rotation until you see it sitting there on compression stroke over that last 1/4 turn. Then you need to put the dizzy in so the points are just opening at about 5deg before TDC. They swing as the dizzy goes in, so you will have to take it out and turn it to the next tooth a couple of times until you have it right. This is why you need to know which way it rotates. Basically they number one plug lead is slightly clockwise off pointing straight to the head. Then put the crank timing marks on 10deg BTDC, turn on the ignition, and move the dizzy back and forth until the points just spark as they open & do the clamp up. It should run at that quite happily and if you want it more accurate get a timing light. Make sure the leads are in the right order for the way the dizzy turns. Id say you have it 180deg out.

Well, all of those... 10 or 15years of development did make some changes... You will find a 2-door of anything but a KE70 much easier than the 2-door 70 itself unless you get a T18. The 2-door 70 was never sold here. However you will get a few steps ahead in technology with the KE70, and with that comes a larger heavier body. The wider/lower body of the KE70 probably explains the better handling as well as the 5link & the rack steering, If you can get an AE71 you get the real benefit of a newer larger car, or take a KE70 and get it out to 1500 or 1600cc with the 5K or 4AGE. Depends on what driving you do and how many passengers you take. I take the KE70 on 7hr journeys along the Great Dividing Range quite regularly without a worry, it is comfortable to drive for a day. I wouldn't rush to take a KE30 on the same... especially crammed with house-fixing tools or The Girl's university luggage.

Overall that's a great idea, it will change the car completely! Just going to a 4K manual was a lot different, much quicker and direct.

..and what he didn't say is.... KE70s have a 5link rear suspension, but all numbers lower than that still have Roman cart leaf springs!! So everything from KE10 to KE55 (and ALL the wagons) are stuck in the dark ages when it comes to handling!

Well, stripped & straight onto a rotisserie.. The ideal time to get an immaculate rust-free body, perfect suspension and a great little 4K. By the end of the summer you could have it repainted and just like this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/62843-ke70-sedan-one-of-a-kind-immaculate-100000-kms-3500/ How bad is the car overall? Got pics? Got plans? Paddock basher or road car?

Thanks guys! rollaclub to the rescue again! :y:

Does it use brake fluid? Go over it all. Inspect all 4 wheels for leaks and wear of the pads/shoes. Take the master cyl off and see if fluid is leaking out the back of it into the booster. Check the booster operation by puttng your foot on the brakes and then starting the car. If the booster is working OK it will suck the pedal down further. If it all looks OK then bleed the whole system. A long pedal travel is usally air in the system, but can be a seal leaking in the master cyl. It could also be a ruptured inner casing in a flexible brake line, so have someone hold the brake lines in their hand whiile you press the pedal & they can feel if it swells.

Saw it a week or two back in someone's post and now I can't find it again! Some Supercheap aerosol colour or similar. Little job I thought would be worthwhile for The Girl to do....

Well, assuming the wall thickness is the same, the outside diameter of the KE70 strut tube is 48mm and the inside diam of the big cars is 48mm... So you should be able to cut the KE70 tube off say 35mm above the hub and push a Corona/Celica strut tube over the top of it then run a weld around it just above the hub. You have instant large strut tubes except for the bottom 50mm or 60mm where it narrows down to the original KE70 45mm ID, and haven't had to change any steering or brake gear.

I'd expect that, but adding an earth is dead easy anyway.

Only answer! Doing anything will soak up more than $750 except that exhaust, which will help but won't do what you want. Just keep looking for an accident write-off twinky where the motor is undamaged and buy the whole car.

Spring rate calculator. Always handy.. I get tired of guys who can't tell you exactly what rates their spings are. http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm and to convert to metric Kg/mm- http://www.hraefn.net/projects/spring_rates.php

We pulled a strut out whle we were doing other things under there and popped the shock retaining nut off. It is a wet shock, not an insert, factory I assume, so it can be modified to any sort of bump or rebound we would like. However it will never be gas pressurised! The next retaining ring down in the strut has a flat top and 3mm two pin holes, so I assume there is a steel tube tool with two pins sticking out of it that unscrews that ring and allows the whole shaft and foot valve to be removed. Then we can redrill bleed valves or seal them up and change the oil.... Anyone got one for a KE70 or knows what they look like??

Surely the noise reduction from an extra metre of pipe or so isn't much, so its more the muffler you use than the side-pipe exit. We used one on the rally Datsun always, it tucked up behind the back seat footwell and didn't need to go through the crossmember or under the half-shaft. It still had a big muffler on. The only other con would be getting monoxide sucked inside the car through the door seals..

Well, for a start don't put up a title called "Please help me" without telling us what it is about in the next line. I normally would even open such a stupid topic title but my daughter said it would be some d'head who didn't know any better, so here I am wasting my day... How much do you know about fixing cars?? Can you weld?? can you use fibreglass?? can you spraypaint a car or sand it down and prepare it? Have you got a quote from a panelbeater yet? Is this the school holidays already?? No its not worth fixing unless you can either do some of those things or are willing to try them and learn. Paying someone to weld it will cost hundreds, and paying someone to spray it will cost thousands, so the car is an instant paddock-basher.

Excellent! Sounds like quite a success story.

155-170 would be fine. The Girl's KE70 had 150, 150, 155, 160 when we bought it. I've done the valves but haven't touched the rings at all. The well-thrashed gearbox donor car had 130, 130, 135, 130.

That's not too good- did you put a shot of oil in that low cyl and try it again. The oil will seal the bad rings momentarily and the compression will go up. If it does, hook an air compressor up to the sparkplug hole an stick 100psi in at TDC. You will hear the air leaking out past the leaking valve.

Needle and seat checked in the carb? It sounds like it is flooding after a little while, fuel just keeps building up in the bowl until it chokes the motor.

..if someone says they've done it for under $5k, look at the work and ask to see the receipts! Few people do what I am anal about, keeping a complete list of every dollar that goes into it. Most guys remember buying the motor and big bits but gloss over the many small things you will buy or have done in a workshop.

Nope! Not a new clutch kit! As the clutch plate wears the engagement takes higher up the pedal until the pressure plate can't grip enough and it slips. That is the opposte of the clutch not dis-engaging and the gears crunching. Your pedal isn't going down far enough, so either stick a coupe of washers behind the circlip (actually an e-clip) or a spacer, or renew the cable. The grooves in the cable get smashed off and the e-clip slips down, making the clutch not dis-engage enough, and I screw a banjo clip on beside the e-clip to hold it in place. Mine was taking right down on the floor & I fitted a plastic spacer a couple of weeks back. The Girl is upset as she has to lift her foot to engage it instead of just tilting her toes now!

Noisy as all shit and just screams "Stop me and hassle me" to the cops.