altezzaclub

Do you have a wiring diagram?? Does the power go from the battery to the switch to the headlight bulb to earth, or from the battery to the headlight bulb to the switch to earth?

I just wanted to pop this up while they're still doing the 7hr drive home! AMSAG Orange rally yesterday, 5 stages all 20-35Km long in brilliant sunny weather, the youngsters did well in what is basically a completely un-prepared rally car while his Dad & I serviced. Still you have to start somewhere and the car can only get faster! They came 20th & won the rookie award. Oh to be young & rallying again! insanity at work-

Concentrate on this, if you haven't got it going already. Sort out if power is getting to the solenoid activation wire, the small wire on the starter solenoid. Can you hear the 'click' from the solenoid on the starter motor when you turn the key? If power isn't gettng down there, (you can always put a test light or multimeter in that wire & turn the key) then chase it back up to the ignition switch itself.

:POSTPICS!:

Well, does 15psi boost flow twice the air that an NA motor sucks?? If atmosperic pressure is 15psi then I assume 15psi boost is 30psi absolute. If you had a 150bhp NA race motor, does double the pressure behind the air double the power? I suppose you need to look back in the days when they ran turbo 1500cc in Formulae One. BRM got 600bhp from their 1600cc, although I don't think its very comparable! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Racing_Motors_V16 ...and Nick Mason from Pink Floyd had one.... Just imagine listening to that sound any time you liked!

Plenty of cam grinds available, get the followers ground as well to wear with the new cam and usually they say fit special valve springs if the lift is over 0.4" A list of cams is in my build topic. The manifolds come up occasionally, I don't know if anyone makes them anymore, but it will be easier to give away a little performance and fit SUs, Weber 32/36 or a sigle DCOE, depending on what you can find. You'll need to raise the compression and fit extractors and a sports exhaust to make it worthwhile.

Got a timing light too? Changing the points gap changes the timing. Don't forget to put a touch of grease on the dizzy cam so it lubes the new points rubbing block. Also, make sure the base-plate rotates each way freely as that's how the mechanical advance is added. If it doesn't want to turn you can unscrew the whole baseplate then clean and lube underneath where the weights are.

Depends on the diff- 4.3 for auto (which we still run even with a K50) and 4.1 in a manual. I'd expect 3300rpm at 100kph in 5th with a 4.3 (too many anyway!!) Then again, I had 14" tyres on... nope- more than that! Play with this http://vexer.com/aut...-rpm-calculator

We welded a vertical bolt onto the extractors and bolted a bar across it to take the weight of the DCOEs. Put a couple of rubber washers in the joint to allow the vibratons to get absorbed and with the bolt thread its adjustable..

Good work! There's plenty to do for very little cost to make them a nice driver's car that keeps up with the traffic. That's all I've done on mine and its turned out well. Start looking for Corona lower control arms and a Celica rear sway bar, they both improve the handling. The motor improves with a cam and extractors and even just a Weber 32/36. The car stays looking stock and goes well. A boilermaker could fabricate some really nice gear... quad carb inlet manifold anyone?

Quite a few posts on what you need, you've probably seen them. Here's what we did- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Sounds like it- remember the ignition wiring dodges around the ballast resistor while cranking to feed full voltage to the coil. When you let the key go it then feeds power through the ballast resistor to drop the voltage to what the coil is designed for. (this is KE70, but I'd expect it to be the same) Lol- that diagram didn't have a ballast in it! I'll take a look for another one.

Sounds great! Have a chat to filfrederick about building his 9000rpm twincam 4K, I'm astounded at what the bottem end can take. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/51097-4k-twin-cam/ I assume you're using solid pushrods in the 5K head. Did the maths indicate massive ports, or is that head just for the valve size? It will be hard to cover such a wide rev range, but if you're in the game I'm sure you can access the right turbo. No chance of an asymmetric pair where the small one boosts low down then a bigger turbo takes over?

What town are you in? There should be rollaclub guys willing to put it together with you if you're in a city. Its not rocket science.

Phone him up and ask. The other option is the K electronic dizzy from the USA. Someone over there sells them for the KP61 Starlets, but its ages since I looked them up. Actually, they're probably in NZ too.

Unregoe'd and not running $600 Driving but not rego'd $1000 Rego'd & running $1500

Aha! Its a little dark, but The Captain dresses well! http://romanticallyapocalyptic.com/33 or maybe its more fun with brass mechanoids carrying machineguns and girls with big boobs! http://www.girlgeniusonline.com/comic.php?date=20041227

The fuel shutoff solenoid has died... No idle at all.

Bore the 4K to take 5K pistons, so you keep the solid lifter setup.. Have it sonic tested to make sure the walls are fine, and if they are badly corroded then just grab another 4K block from the wreckers & test that. If you're keen, have the crankshaft lightened and knife-edged, certainly lighten the flywheel and have everything balanced. You could make a K/T oil pump combination with more capacity, or buy a new K pump. Have the head cleaned up, skim 25thou off, and fit quad carbs from a motorbike. Match that with a 280-290deg cam so it is all still quite streetable, and have the rocker pedestals machined to keep the correct ratio with the new valve springs. Go have fun! One day I'll do it, I reckon it will be quicker than a stock 4AGE & astound a lot of people.

That sludge does not look good, but I don't know of anything that will really clean it out. The patents start off with a 50:50 mix of kerosine and diesel... drop the oil, fill with the mix, run the motor on idle for "a while" then dump that too. Don't srive it, there is not much lubrication in that mix! I've done it, its nothing spectacular although it does come out filthy. From there you can work your way up through the various oil flush products. The best way is to have it all dipped when you strip the motor and the oilways cleaned out with a brush, for if the oilways are sludged up you wouldn't want to be modifying it for a thrashing.

ok, simple things first.. buy a thermometer that goes to 100deg C Take of the radiator cap before starting it one morning, make sure it is full of water right up to the neck, then start it and let it idle until the temp gauge goes to the red. You can read the temperature and note it every minute, and you will see it jump up when the thermostat opens. You can check that temp against the thermostat specs, 78 or 83 or whatever it should be. You can check the gauge reading against the thermometer and see what real temp the red zone is. Maybe it will hit 100deg, maybe it won't. You can also see bubbles coming up from a blown head gasket... Then you will know what to tackle.

Can you get some exact L/100km figures, from full tank to full tank?? I don't think it will make a lot of difference if the car is runnng in 'as-new' tune at the moment, so about 7L/100km. Certainly it does help with some low-speed hesitation & cold running, but that is really tiny compared to the rest of the work a car does. If the points are in good condition, the coil and condensor also working fine, then electronics won't make a big difference. I'd expect the greatest gain is in high revs where you would get points bounce with stock gear, but I can't see the averge driver needing that either. The third place it helps is in modded motors where you are running outside the usual design specs. So I can run the SUs really lean and it fires cleaner with the electronic dizzy. What I've really done is made the car faster without using any more fuel.

It needs all the red flexi-lines replaced by copper tubing with brass fittings.. and a few chrome nuts on it... and a wisp of steam escaping from somewhere... Then you can wear flying goggles and a full-length leather coat with "Captain Frankenstein" shoulder flashes!

I reckon the problem is in this area somewhere.. A- Bad wiring connections or broken wire, either the solenoid activator or the main power wire. Both of those would have been shifted when you took the starter out then suddenly it started.. B- Solenoid coils/lever arm.So it jams when trying to throw the gear in or doesn't put power to the starter coils every time. I've seen starters that jam and won't work when you hit the key, so you get out and whack it with a wheel spanner to unjam it and try again... Taking it out would unjam it. C- Starter windings or contacts. ..and in theory the new starter should have eliminated B and C. It will be fascinating to find out what the final answer is!

The 5K dizzy I have went straight in and the other electrics stayed the same. The rate of advance was the problem, it advanced the ignition slowly as the revs built up so the motor felt very flat. I don't know if all the K electronic dizzys are the same in the weights and springs, so it might depend on exactly which dizzy you get. Would I do it again? Yes! Story is here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45