altezzaclub

Loose crank pulley?? Loose dizzy?? Loose dizzy drive gear?? Something is turning relative to the crank now and then when you turn it off in that over-run period of the last couple of strokes. Does the dizzy have a cross-pin holding a gear on the bottom?? Is that secure?? Wha is it like grabbing the rotor and turning it back and forth?? You should feel the 35deg of advance in that movement, and it should always sit back at minimum advance when you turn the motor off. You might have to check that, start it, turn it off, check it again, start it again... a dozen times to see if it does always go back to zero.

Does anyone know if it has a mechanical advance system in that dizzy?? There's no need to once the ECU is advanced enough to calculat the advance that the motor can take, like the Altezza with no dizzy, but early electronics still had weights. What else can randomly cause spark advance? A loose dizzy shaft? play in the dizzy drive? How does the ECU read the crank position on those motors? A crank angle sensor? I assume all it needs that for is to fire the injectors, and the dizzy fires the coil off that 4-spoked wheel. So can the ECU advance the spark, or must it have weights under that dizzy plate.

Those voltages look good, but the red light means the alty isn't charging. It might be worth stripping the alty and check the brushes inside to see here is plenty of wear left on them. The brake pedal switch is under the dash on the pedal, just make sure its not sticking, then check the resistance to earth from the brake bulbs. Weird lighting happenings are often related to some component that can't earth properly.

Have you checked TDC with a wire down a spark plug hole, or are you working off camshaft marks. Any chance the pulley TDC mark was made for a different engine? Did you check the weights in the dizzy when you had it out?? broken spring in there?

Arrgh! I don't know enough about the ignition system you have there.. A mechanical dizzy, vac advance, elctronic ignition?? How does the CPU control firing? OK, what are the test terminals you bridged and what does that do? Does the timing light clip around a plug lead for signal and battery to power the light. What revs were the timng readings of 10 and 16 taken at?? I assume idle. So is it starting at 16deg, which seems a bit high to me. Are those red and orange arrows taken at idle?? That orange arrow must be about 36deg, the max advance of the system. Can you get it idling at 8deg and see how it is for a week. If it knocks your performance off then change the advance curve. Does the dizzy advance it as you turn it anti-clockwise, or retard it?? Can you pop it out, move the rotor and put it back one tooth more clockwise, so you are playing around the middle of the adjustment. If clockwise is retarding it, you can't get any less timing. More important, seeing this is an occasional problem, are there weights in the dizzy that control the mechanical advance, or is all that electronic. If you have weights then you should strip the dizzy and make sure they are greased and free, and the springs are not broken. A weight sticking out will give you lots of advance all the time, then at other times it will return. I think you need to solve the timing at idle/starting problem, then afterwards generate an advance curve of timing at every 500rpm and see what it looks like. That is just the performance part of the ignition, not the problem.

Well, its part of controlling the population, and that's only worth doing if they have something to steal. The Govt is not going to put the unemployed through Court as they can't get a fine out of them & it costs money to keep them in jail. Better to stick to screwing the middle-class. Really, your performance on your job for your boss should be the only measure thta is important. Whether your out of it or not doesn't matter if you are performing fine. The whole drug war is a giant waste of our lives, after all, we are working to pay taxes for them to run a giant bureacracy employing thousands of people who should be out there in the private sector creating wealth. Cops, lawyers, judges, prison guards, counsellors, drug test lab people, researchers, journalists, politicians, their staff.. Tens of thousands of people make their money from drug laws so there are too many votes in it to stop. It is a social change we need to make people think about taking drugs. You lose your job, ruin your health (Get Govt out of healthcare too- it makes people take too many risks!) end up in the gutter with people stepping over you.. Those peple steppingover you won't take drugs. That is the message we should be realising, not having the Govt pick up after us and fix us up.

You are probably right, that Subaru sound is very 3cyl. Carbs or injectors? The fastest way is time on a dyno as you can measure the electronics one by one under load, check plugs firing, coil, & injectors etc. All it needs is a plug or lead breaking down under load. Start with compression tests, then a "plug cut" check after running it hard in 3rd for 3 or 4 seconds. Check plug lead resistance with a multimeter, but none of these are as good as reading the motor directly under load. Borrow a Megasquirt!

Yes it will make a big difference, and cost really depends on shopping around and doing the strip & assembly yourself. Cheapest would be the Weber 32/36 & adapter plate, 4-1 extractors and a 280deg cam cut. The cam is a couple of hundred bucks, as you get the followers ground as well to suit the new cam. The carb is for sale here and there on Rollaclub, the extractors occasionally come up but for under $300 you can get them new. Add a couple of hundred more for a sports exhaust system in 2" or inch & 3/4. You would have to pull your cam out & send it off to be cut, fit the new extractors & carb and hook it all up. It depends on how good your motor is right now, so when was the head gasket done?? What he probably means is that it is bored oversize, but it would pay to go back and ask him more details. Really its the ideal time to pull the motor out, and fix any small things wrong and check everything that is not wrong. Shim the oil pump, pop the head off and grind the valves, but don't take the pistons out. However if you've just had the valves ground and the head skimmed then leave the motor in and pull the cam out out through the radiator.

All in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Nope! We had an auto in the KE70 and that is exactly what happened. You can do the usual cam grind, Weber carb, extractors, sports exhaust, but the auto will still hold it back. Probably 1500cc 5K pistons will make up for it! Go manual- changing the box will take 30kg out of the car by itself!

...and... have today's hardened valves got rid of the problem of burnt the exhaust valves from not having a resonator under the passenger's seat ?? ..or have youngster's these days never heard of it happening? That was the theory, it backfired without the resonator and burned exhaust valves, so you fit extractors, 2" to the resonator then whatever to the back. I use inch & 3/4 from the resonator to the back, works OK, but 2" is popular. Probably no-one has done any maths on what is really needed...

Lol- Been busy the last week or so & missed this one! Right! The problem with the system is one of incentives. The private sector has great incentives to succeed in competition, because that's how your business makes money and that's how you keep your job. Sadly, Govt does not have those incentives, it is a monopoly by force so there is nowhere else to go for things a Govt does, which is to tell you how to live the way they want you to. Hence we do everything we can to please our customers, and they don't give a shit. The only incentives involved turn up at election time when politicians want to get their hands on the power, so their incentive is to convince you to vote for them, using any means at all, but usually bribery. (I also find it strange that you can call Aussie a democracy and beacon of freedom when they FORCE you to vote.. but anyway..) What this means is that entirely the wrong sort of people run for power, from Councils to Canberra, the power attracts those people who want to rule over thier fellow man. The solution is to run your Govt like you run your Justice system juries. You pull taxpayer's tax numbers out of the lotto machine and those people have to go to parliament for a year, or two or whatever, no dodging. You get a chance to introduce one law and vote on everyone else's in that time, then you never have to go back again. You will get typical Aussies in power, and your country will reflect the values of your typical mates. Seeing no-one knows who is going to get in there will be no parties and no point in trying to influence those Parliamentarians. There will be a mix of all political sorts in there, but mainly we would see less desire to control everyone's life and more common-sense. Otherwise, you will be forever at the mercy of power-mongers and capricious bureaucrats passing more and more laws every year and stealing more and more of your money. (which they make more worthless every day with their inflation!)

I don't see a problem.. This is stock isn't it?

Good decision anyway, chemical stripping includes sealers and glues that hold the panels together. Slower by hand but better. So, better than new when done?

1- I don't know, along with a few odd systems that you can buy but there doesn't seem to be a great acceptance of their efficacy. Does my masseuse's expensive magnetic field machine really tell you if you're allergic to wheat or have cancer.... 2-Carbon won't usually cause any misfires, very little builds up in the combustion chamber of a post-1960s engine. Most of it ends up on the back of the valves and around the exhaust ports. Reving the engine does blow a bit of the soot out, but as Jono said, the accelerator pump working when you boot it will give black soot as it momentarily runs rich. The carbon in the ports/valves won't be moved, it is more that you are making the carbon, not removing stuff that is there.. You can run water injection OK, it will raise the compression slightly and drop the combustion chamber temperature as the water turns to steam, but I think it really only makes a difference on 1950s motors or turbo mods where you want to avoid detonation. I ran it on a CA18 Skyline wagon I had for a couple of years with a faint improvement in fuel efficiency. I don't know how good you local fuel is.. if its bad enough then it may be carboning up the engine, but the only way to tell is to take off the manifolds or the head. The usual symptom of carbon in the chamber is running on (or dieseling) when you turn the motor off, and/or a tendency to pink. If you have a KE70 with a fuel shut-off solenoid it won't run on, (that's what they were for!) and pinking really depends on fuel quality, so you are left with pulling bits off the motor to look inside.

That's a very short time for a brake problem to occur, its virtually instantaneous in the 5 or 10year life of brake cylinders. I'm amazed that bleeding them fixed it, or has it masked the problem temporarily? Has it got a booster?? Look under the dashboard and see if there is any fluid coming back out of the brake actuation rod on the pedal, and check under the bonnet on the firewall around the m'cyl. It may have been leaking fluid out past the seals. If its got a booster then that may be filling up with fluid from dud seals. I can't understand why it got hard if you just bled it, unless its as blzbub says and its just compared to a low soft pedal.

All the big companies do mail order, that's how I got mine done at Crow. More importantly, decide what cam profile you want and see who grinds it.

Well, you are right in that it works behind a high horsepower motor Rob, but a poor little 1300cc can hardly drag it around! I swear when it lands on your chest taking it out it is twice the weight of the K50. Here's what we did Prorolla, its fiddly with the pedal box but its not hard and it makes a great difference, the car is much more sparkly around town and it actually goes up hills in the country. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Get another daily would be my advice! 5minutes won't even warm the motor up and will be bad for it. Hunt down more info on what cams and head mods to use from a race engineer and make it a Sunday car that you just don't drive in traffic. I'm sure you could get a run-around KE70 with a 5K warmed up for a daily. For the cam I'd expect anything over 295 would be race only, they'd be very flat under 3000rpm at that and stumble and cough. Especially as you get into button clutches or race linings so getting it off the line gets more difficult. If you've got used to a V6 then you'll be surprised at the lack of torque low down. Also have a look through the builds forum and PM anyone who has a cammed up 4AGE, they might not come on often enough to read this topic. Some cam stuff in here- Basically around 275 is good road cam, 280 is a fast road cam and 290 is a weekend warrior, but the rest of the motor will have to suit it. The 304deg is used in Formulae Atlantic race cars, so you might struggle in traffic... http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/5293-4age-camshaft-guide.html Some background info here- http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pages/4A-GE%20camshaft_story.htm

Click on his name, Griffinwings, then read his profile, and it says.. So maybe he got run down by a bus, or lost interest, or got married, or went to jail... but he has never come back so he is unlikely to answer your question. You coud try a PM if he hasn't changed his email address.

What sort of driving does your daily involve?? Stop and go traffic in a capital city? 50km to work in the country at 100kph?? Motorway then suburbs?? ..and what's the hottest cam you have had in a daily in the past?

Bluntly, that gearbox is a boat anchor. If the Aussie Govt wasn't bent over and screwed by the unions all the time it would never have been fitted. Get rid of it and fit a K50.

The holes in the LCA won't line up if you bend the castor rod along its length. You'll have to bend it in an "S" shape or elongate the front LCA hole. Still, its the easiest solution. ...or just get rims with a better offset. Moar Dish!!

Bore the 4K to take 5K flat-top pistons, get a 32/36 Weber or twin SUs or a single DCOE, have the 4K cam cut, the crank & flywheel lightened and balanced, and get a set of extractors on a sports exhaust. For not a lot of work you've got a sporty 1500cc 4K that goes well and looks original.

Lol! Love it! That's a nce toy, I never thought of buildinng a dyno to really give you fine tuning. hmmm.....