altezzaclub

In the intervening 12months between these posts philfrederick came along and showed us his twin cam 4K, which hauls 9000rpm with ease it seems... So its all in the top end to make them go!

yep- about $7... But, it shouldn't have had one in there as the autos don't use a spigot bearing!

Sadly, that's what the sliding hammer does. You put the screw through the hole in the threaded endcup of the sliding hammer and screw it into the hole you drilled in the dent. Then you screw the shaft of the sliding hammer into the endcup and slide the weight up the shaft to hit against the end stop at the top, so the impact pulls the shaft, screw and dent outwards. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200334163_200334163

The sliding hammer is the answer, but I'm not sure what they're worth so they might make it uneconomic. Drill a hole and use a self-tap screw used to be the way, but the glue is a nice idea. You could also drill a hole in the front/back wheel well and use a steel rod with a spoon-shaped end to push the dents outwards. Just put rubber grommets in the holes afterwards. Don't be afraid to drill the back of the sill under the floor and poke a steel rod in to help push them out too, but pushing directly on them with a small rod end will make small dents outwards..

If you're in Hawaii go for it! When you emigrate to Aussie you can bring it in as a personal import and sell it for moonbeams!

Well, I had a friend of The Girl's stay with me in Orange, with his rally RA40 Celica, navigator & his Dad.(Who pays for it al of course!) Dad & I did service on the Orange Rally, then I went up to Tamworth a week before Uni holidays and stripped the Celica before bringing The Girl back for the holidays. Since then I've been up again, so the Km are racking up on The Blue Streak, sometimes with 14" tyres, this last time with 13". Seeing I'm building a new in-boot fuel tank for the Celica I emptied the fuel cans of 98octane into the KE70 and it returned 6.3L/100km over 650km blasting up & down the Bylong Valley route, one of Aussies best roads ever! 25kph corners up a cliff, lots of 65kphg bends and very little straight road, nearly all without white lines on the road! I'll do a build topic on the Celica later, it was a real mess when they bought it as an "almost ready to go" rally car, so now we have 6weeks of 12hour days fixing and preparing it as it should have been to start with! Everything from collpased chassis, old accident damage, rust and racing shock absorbers that pull the car down into the dirt!

Sounds OK to me- I'd solve all the problems by having voluntaryt tax, so the Govt couldn't force you to hand your money over. Suddenly everyone would be happy to pay for things around them, but not thousands of miles away with no benefits. ..and Govt (in NZ anyway) used to be unpaid, for 6months of a year only.

I'd pay $4000 for it sitting in my driveway... How much will it cost you in freight?? I assume you're in the USA seeing that car is in Hawaii. Alternatively, how many other 2-doors are for sale around you?

Ahh... not the same electronic igntion I had to re-curve?? Mine felt very dead when I fitted it so I just kept advancing it until it got up and went, and dropping the idle speed at the same time. When I put a timing light on it I had 18deg of advance at idle! That's when I stareted changing the springs. The burning of the mechanical points gets worse when the condensor is old and leaky. The points are set more accurately with a dwell meter, so the volcano surface doesn't matter, but its not that crucial, the problem of worn points is the way they retard the ignition timing. Grab your timing light & draw up an advance curve, and compare it to mine.

ohh... ...and what dizzy issues were they??

Richen the idle mixture and see if that helps. Its got a fair chance to be an inlet leak that leans it out, maybe the horrible twin inlet gaskets.

Grab them- if you're reboring out to that size have them polished down a few thou and you can knock that off the bore size. You'll only see how bad the scratching is when you hold them in your hands.

Nope- the brand new battery should start the car quite a few times even if it was not getting fully charged... The 'beep' worries me.. You should hear the starter turning the motor or a 'click-click-click' from the starter solenoid. There is something else in the system! Don't go back to that "auto-electrician" except to deman he pays for your new battery! So, does it stat fine all the times in between the 12hours?? Does it start fine when someone jumps it? When you park it at home next, take a battery lead off overnight and see if it starts OK next day. It may be draining out through some odd circuit.

Nice photo of it.... ooohh... look what I found http://www.gemswa.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=2419

hang on, isn't the D-dish a 5K piston? Aren't 4Ks all flat top pistons? What is the bore size finn?

Easiest would be to get one from a wrecker and just drop it in, then see if you need to rebuild yours or just run the new one. Maybe someone on here will have one they used before they swapped it for something faster, so they know what it was like. Otherwise, it will be difficult to tell how good another one is. Check the condition of the car if its still in one, check the oil colour, pop a plug and see how much carbon is on it. Maybe you could buy a running car with one for less than $500, ratshit body, no rego but you can still drive it to see what the motor is like.

Depends how worn the bore is.. Its a schlep to strip it in place then measure the bore and find it needs a rebore anyway, so I'd pull it out and do it on the bench. You won't know anything until it is all measured. Get quotes for complete overhaul, rebore, rings & pistons, crank cut, bearings, head job, then line that up against a second-hand motor that is just a drop-in. i'd guess you could fit 4 second-hand motors for the price of a rebuild, so its a gamble as to how good the wrecker's motors are. Care for a 4AGE? Does it drop in easily?

Slow down a bit and figure out how fast the dollars are coming in.... You'll have to get prices locally, as we all have mates who can do different things for us. Do the compression test and decide how knackered the motor is. If it is good then hit the mods- Exhaust first, which means extractors, a 2inch resonator under the passenger's floor and an inch and 3/4 pipe back to a tri-chamber muffler. No change out of $600 odd. That system will fit any K motor you use. If you have the money, whip the motor out, the head a once over, fit the new cam and fit the Weber. Run it for a few years until the rings or bearing need doing. If the compression story is bad news and its pretty worn, then you have to pull it all into pieces. Then the engineers shop will tell you how bad the bore is, and whether its a rebore or just a hone and new rings. If its just a hone, then new rings, new bearings, lighten the flywheel and balance the whole system would be great. That would make it rev smoothly with the new cam/carb/exhaust. If it needs a rebore you really are at the top end of the spending... Get the block sonic tested to see if it will take 5K pistons, giving you a 1500cc 4K, and have it rebored to suit. New pistons, new rings, new bearings, lightened and balanced.. no change out of 2grand I'm sure! But then you have a motor that will not only fly, go up hills at 100kph without slowing, but it will last a couple of hundred thousand Km. So- start by seeing how good the motor you have is, what needs doing to take it back up to "as-new" status, and then lay out a budget to mod it. You might need to do a rebore first, and run the stock carb, cam & exhaust until you can afford them. If the motor is out for a ring job, see if you can get a cam ground then, as its a pain to try and change cams in the car. Carbs and exhaust can be done anytime, although best all done at once as you can really see what you're doing. good luck with it

What happens when you hit the starter after 12hours?? Any noises?

Sadly true- Maybe this is why mine never overheats... While I had the head off I cleaned out the water jackets with a screwdriver and a bit of #8 wire. I was amazed at the amount of stuff that came out, and how it bridged the jackets and blocked them up. I never took the pistons out, so the block was never dipped.

lol! OK, put a 100deg thermometer in the radiator and see what the temp really goes up to when idling. I wouldn't trust the sensor or the guage really, unless it was non-electrical. Ours never goes above the 1/3 mark on the gauge, having been through the hassles of wires and sensors and new sensors that don't work.. Which I found out by using a thermometer! Measure the cold & hot resistance of the sensor in a saucepan with a multimeter and compare that to the maker's specs. What AF ratio is it idling at?? The idle circuit feeds the motor up to 2500rpm or thereabouts, so it has a long effect. Also, can you see the effect of the pump jet when you boot it? An instant lean then very rich then back to normal step up and down. Taking off means the pump should make it instant rich to help the idle jet get it moving up to where the main circuit cuts in. Then cruise should be just the main circuit controlling it, which is fuel jet, air jet and float level. If its rich, say more fuel than 15 or 16 to 1, you should tackle that problem first- wrong fuel jet? Air jet blocked? Float level too high? That's the main (and simplest) part of a carb's work. The SUs cruise at 100kph at 16 to 18 and will go up a slight incline at that if I just squeeze the throttle. Once you have constant throttle cruise sorted then tackle the idle and acceleration. Do you think the second throat is working on your rich mid-full throttle? Hard to check unless you take the bonnet off I suppose, although a webcam under the bonnet is good...

good grief- OK, and the holes are asymmetric so you can't turn it around. Anyone got stub axle measurements on AE86 and XT130 Coronas?

Why do you lose castor?? I thought that only happened when you lowered the car. The castor rod bolts to the LCA in the same place, the strut top must be pretty close to original in the turret... is it a factor of the strut base postion in the steering arm??

That's very close, only 4thou. The pros & cons are- Big tappets gaps- valves don't open as far, and open late and close early, so they spend more time shut and make the cam less 'cammy'. The exhaust valves get time to cool well by transfering their heat to the seat. The valves get opened and closed more agressively as they are hit by the cam flank more than the ramp and get slapped open and closed.. Small tappet gaps make full use of the cam ramp to open & close gently. The tappets are quieter and the cam more cammy as the valves open earlier and close later. Hence the exhausts spend less time on their seats getting rid of the heat. You also push more compression back out the inlet valves as it closes late. I don't know which factors are important in a 4K, they're pretty under-developed and bulletproof anyway, You could set the tappets with a piece of wire, so it fits in the rocker groove. I've done that before... or get the rockers re-faced. I'll tell you something funny to try- set them using the "rule of nine", so you set rocker #6 with #3 on wide open (easy to see it rocking over the cam nose). and set #4 with #5 wide open.. so they add up to 9. Then check them all by putting each cylinder on TDC and checking the gaps. Both methods are widely used but give different results!

Take another look at the choke mechanism. It does two things, holding up the idle speed and also richening the mixture with the flap over the carb throat. I can't remember how they interact and how adjustable they are, but my SUs just hold the throttle open until the chokje is halfway out, then pulling the choke further actually richens it. That interaction is quite adjustable. Find out if it is closing the choke flap immediately you pull the choke knob, and if that can be altered. I've got my old carb out on permanent loan so I can't go and have a look... Stick up a couple of photos of the choke setup if you get stuck.