altezzaclub

I didn't... We used chemical stripper and a tungsten scraper to get it back to bare steel, treated it with Rustkill (any phosphate product), gave it a thorough wash & dry then undercoated it.

Don't weld teeth to teeth, fill a tooth with weld then go to the next spider gear and fill another tooth with weld. You get a 1/4 turn on the wheel before it locks, which is how Steve's very clever uncle did the rally Celica diff. That bit of play lets it turn in a fraction before driving both wheels. You'll need a spare for when it blows up I'm sure! We've just taken the rear springs out of an AE82 hatch at the wreckers for the rally car, but I can't remember seeing a sway. I'd go 16valve with a restrictor over an 8valve with a restrictor, but maybe they will make the twinkies hole smaller. The rally car has -4.5deg front camber, all the castor we can get and slight toe-out. With a locked diff it turns in well, but you will struggle with FWD. I'd suggest the same, with no front sway and soft front springs. The tail you stiffen up, and if you can get power-off oversteer it will be a bonus. The Mk1 Mini Cooper I had used to o'steer on liftoff, it was brilliant, then designers spent 20years getting rid of that. Maybe you can tweeak the negative camber our of the rear wheels with some Porta-Power chassis pump. Don't let weight removal make the back very light and the front very heavy.

I was wondering if the 4K would pull a 3.9, so I figured out the theoretical revs at 100kph on the stock 13" rims for each diff, then added the 14" rims I'd used up to Cairns and back. It showed the 14" rims gear it up more than a 4.1 diff does, as I'd checked before, and the extra 140rpm drop at 100kph shouldn't be a problem with a 3.9. So I can run a 3.9diff on 13" rims and cruise at 3250 instead of 3580rpm. So any hill will mean 5th to 4th pretty quickly as the revs hit 3000rpm. A good summer project for next January....

Then for my birthday Steve rocked up with a 4.1 diff he'd thrown in the back of his Corona and suffered the oil leak all the way down. We pulled it apart and found no cage on one wheel bearing at all and the oil looked like metallic paint. I said I'd pass on the diff thanks, and while we were collecting springs for the rally car at the wrecker I grabbed photos of the diffs in a couple of Celicas. For $100 I can have an RA40 4.1 or an RA60 3.9. That will get me out of Borgies and into banjo style cases, and if I grab all the arms they will go into the rally Celica when the current bushes are knackered.

Well, not a lot done to the Girl's KE70, but a massive rebuild of the Celica rally car to have it ready for Dec 1st. A couple more photos and I'll put up a complete build thread on that. I've Corolla'd up and down to Walcha three times now, 580km each way and last time on the 13" wheels which gave 6.4L/100km going up and 6.3L/100 coming back.. One thing I did find under the spare parts Celica I appropriated on permanent loan instantly... So we've gone from stock KE70 sway to Celica sway to aftermarket Celica sway. From 13mm to 16.5mm

Check the leads on the battery, which I'm sure are clean and tight, then check the other ends of them on the starter and the chassis. Then check the lead that carries power back from the motor to the chassis. All these should be clean & tight. After that start on the fusible links in the main wiring lines and whatever else is wired in on the battery +ve, because it sounds like a bad connection in somethng that got disturbed when you moved the battery wiring. All the connections get old a corroded with time.

I think all the K motors can use them. They were being sold by one of the sponsors on here, KEmotorsport, and by a guy in the USA. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/user/11199-ke-motorsport/ They are still made brand-new for the 5K, and the USA ones are for the KP61 Starlet.

Bit of wear in the dizzy, what is it like with the light on the coil lead. That will flash all cylinders and you will see 1 and 4. Probably also wandering a few degrees. The auto will soak up quite a bit, your 10L/100 would turn into 8L/100 if it was manual I reckon. I assume the tyres are kept over 30psi, so you're stuck with carb ideas/problems. See if the float level is adjustable, maybe you can lean it a fraction there, and reset the idle mixure to lean it back if you can.

only one law- "You cannot commit force on someone else." Simple, easy to sort out and you don't need any more laws passed than that. So we don't need a parliament at all, the law is there and everyone lives with it. That frees up a good half a million parasites or more who can go and get productive jobs instead of dragging the rest of us down. They could get absorbed into a lot of new companies who would replace the Govt in building regulations/schools/hospitals etc and work a lot more efficiently in the private sector. Yep- only the lower classes ever revolt, they have nothing to lose and the time to do something. The rest of us are too busy working to pay the parasites and we have some money that can get taken off us, or a house that can be siezed. Only when they collapse the middle-class down to the level of the lower class will we be able to burn parliament and hang a lot of parasites, for then a revolution will be better than what we have. Until then we are battery chooks being bled dry for an illusion of security where The State is the biggest criminal gang in town. It is getting worse for every generation- Tax rates over 50% anyone? A fun read- http://www.bigheadpr...m/tpbtgn?page=1

The stock coil is low voltage, either 6 or 9 I can't remember, and the ballast resistor drops the 12v down to that voltage while you drive, dumping the excess power as heat. When you crank the starter the ignition key bypasses the ballast resistor and directs the battery straight to the coil. In theory your 6V coil is now getting 12v, but the starter draws so much current the voltage drops and the coil runs at its best. This is better than having a 12v coil trying to start the car at 9V or less under cranking. The condensor is a capacitor and builds electrical current to discharge when the points close, making a larger current flow through the coil and generate a larger spark voltage. They slowly degrade and will leak power away to earth. They are oxides caused by the spark burning the aluminium contacts away in the cap, but usually the spark jumps right through the oxide. I clean them off every year or two. Don't let the gap between them and the rotor get too big or it will be hard for the spark to jump the gap. Sort out the points & condensor, and if you still have trouble you might try a new rotor and dizzy cap. best idea!

Unless they are fairly new just fit new points and a condensor. If you fitted the points in there last time, did you fit a new condensor at the same time? I think the condensor is a prime suspect, it sounds like a weak spark. Timing also, if the points have worn closed a bit they will retard the ignition timing and make it hard to start. Something is struggling to make factory parameters, so condensor, or coil, or battery, or starter motor or dizzy cap. Maybe one component is pulling excess power and not leaving enough for the others to work as they should. Do you have the stock coil and the ballast resistor fitted? They are important to help starting.

http://www.offroadfo...WELL_METER.html Simple enough, but fiddly as you can only read it with the motor running, then adjust it with the dizzy cap off, then read it again to see if you have it right, then take the cap off again to change it ... Feeler gauges you just set with the cap off then you're right. However points burn metal from one side of the points and deposit it on the other, which is why they now put a hole in one side of them. This gives a wrong reading if you push a feeler gauge between the volcano and the hole, and your points will be too wide. Not a problem with brand new points, so if you have feeler gauges just buy new points and a new condenser. The condensor (which is a capacitor) stores the electric charge until it discharges through the points, but an old condensor leaks power away and causes the points to burn. The other major point of wear (Ha! Great pun!) is on the rubbing block that wears away rubbing on the square dizzy cam all the time. This closes the points gap, retards the ignition and kills performance and idle speed. So always put a spot of grease on the dizzy cam with your new points.

yeah- check the points gap, preferably with a dwell meter as they give a more accurate answer on used points. maybe fit a new set if they are badly burnt, then check the timing. If it still stalls then check the carb- can you sort it out with the idle mixture and the idle speed adjustment screws, or if not, can you pull the carb apart and flush out the idle system using a syringe and some petrol??

Its worth it- Swap motor & gearbox,crossmember, pedal box, clutch hydraulics and sort the taiolshaft & exhaust, and then you're ready to convert the 4AC into a 4AGE later. The 1.6 gear adds to the price when you sell it, it makes it easier for anyone else to do a 4AGE conversion.

Don't you have a grinder?? How low do you want it? Take a coil off, lose an inch an put the rate from 100lb/in up to 120. 2 coils means about 40mm off ride height and a rate of 150lb/in. Go silly and it won't remain captive under droop, but will pound your back before then.

So it just siphoned through the pump where a bit of shit was sitting on the flap valve holding it open?? What Parrot said sounds good, it should clean up OK.

Find a dodgy-lookin A-rab and he'll do it for you.... or a tow-truck driver! Failing that, the preferred method is a flat spring-steel blade like a steel ruler with a notch cut out of it. If you slide it down by the door lock it can hook the arm attached to the exterior door lock and unlock it.

and tell us what experience you have in engine conversions.. Its a LOT cheaper if you can do the work yourself.

Same as any old car... Check earths with a resistance setting on your multimeter, then 12V at the end of the wires where the bulbs fit in. Look for corrosion where the bulbs sit as that will stop them earthing. A bulb not working in the blinkers will make the others run fast. The dash lights go out when you turn at night then come back after a second or two. I haven't had the headlights go out with them. Yours sounds like an earth not connected so one circuit is running back through another, or a wire connected to the wrong circuit, which is much harder to do. The abysmal setup of powering the light bulbs via a relay, then earthing each filament through the dipswitch should be thrown out. Reverse the circuit and you will have much brighter lights and they will be reliable in use. In my build thread- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Ah- great fun- Nice vids! We're sitting here just wasted after last night's rally at John's River and we should be in bed! Celica is cleaned, wheels off, inspected for damage and my month away from home building it is finished tomorrow, so roll on next year! A lot more oversteery than the KE70 I think, and it just blows tyres away... all that 18RG power!

Cam is easy, the big names will have a cam grind to suit. Quite likely they can cut any of the 4K profiles onto it. I assume the bore-stroke ratio will mean a milder cam with good lift, rather than a 7000rpm 285deg cam. If the bearings and rings are good, there's not much else to do apart from what you have done and get a cam cut. So long as the porting was lined up when they fitted the carb and manifold it should all go well. If you pull the head off for something else you could get it skimmed for higher compression & take a look at the combustion chamber shaping and porting. If you pull the motor down sometime you could get the flywheel lightened and the bottom end balanced.

..and 6cc for the "o" dish. These are 5K pistons we are talking I assume, 4Ks are flat as I recall.

Is there 12v at the coil?

Any farmer could do it.... Fill a tooth gap with weld in a spider gear so it can't mesh with the gear next to it. Then do the other gears so all 4 hit a weld at once. That gives you most of the gear to rotate the wheels independently before they lock.

I've never tried it, but it would keep them in one piece when you hit something with the nose, or catch the guy in front on a stage. It might throw a lot of light on the bonnet and cause reflections.