raceflorolla

Shit. You live and learn hey. I suppose it would be a lot worse with water in there rather than fuel. Its turned out not as bad as i originally thought

Nice. So all the seals/ gaskets should be ok. Had a feeling the petrol might eat away at them?

So i discovered last night that the 4k had decided to fill completely up with fuel, sump, combustion chamber, inlet etc and overflow onto the road throught the sump gasket. Took the fuel line off at the carby and without the car running it wont stop flowing. I'm thinking maybe somethings wrong with the fuel pump, causing it to leak while the car isnt running but I'm not sure. Oh and it was parked on a hill front facing downhill on about a 10deg slope. I have parked there plenty of times without this happening before. So the question is... If i drain everything out, clean the plugs, fill oil back up etc and start it, have i got a bomb on my hands? Cheers Sam

So siphoned the fuel from the tank, added new stuff. Replaced the fuel filter, stripped the carby down gave her a clean. And what do ya know it works. Stoked. Thanks a lot guys for your time in helping me sort it and responding. Learnt a new thing in the process, 9 month old fuel doesnt do wonders

Yeah i have the timing set right, at TDC, crank at 0° the rotor points at No.1 terminal. I'm sure i had it a tooth out couple of days ago, ran like a pig. Got it to idle this morning, now adjusted back to ~10° it runs for about a minute before it dies and has lack of power down low. While it idles if you put your foot flat it coughs and splutters then rev's up. Might have blocked jets in the carb, the fuel has been sitting there for 9 months.

Hmm quite possibly. Once its running the timing light show its about 40deg advanced and if i try to take it back to ~10deg it dies. Ive lost my manual from years ago so I'm going off the top of my head at the moment. I found TDC aligned rotor and dizzy and put it in. Only prob i have with that is I'm not sure of the exact position in which to put the dizzy down in. Previous cars ive had they have a mark on the dizzy and block that you line up but can't see to find it on the ol 4k.

Checked point gap, spark gap, adjusted timing. Replaced the dizzy cap. The car runs but sounds like it's missing at regular intervals. When i hold the timing light you can see it flicker but occasionaly it drops a spark every now and then. Checked the resistance of the leads, Coil to dizzy 13.8 Each plug lead between 3.6 - 4.6 are these readings showing the leads are faulty? Think i read on here that you should get resistance of ~20.0 to 200mm of lead? Is that correct?

Yes there was. Sorry about the late reply. I found the problem it was the wire between dizzy and -ve side of coil, post by taz_rx made me check this. Got the car started but i has an irregular idle. Checked each plug and they all seem to spark inconsistantly so ive come to the conclusion that it must be dizzy related or points? Not too sure

Hey guys, Usually i work out most of my problems in regards to cars not running. This time i'm a bit stuck, thought someone might have another point of view on the subject. Story goes as follows... i parked my ke70 in the backyard before leaving on a 10 month road trip. Came back today to try and start it. Blew out the cobwebs, cleaned the air filter, checked the fuel filter, replaced the spark plugs. Tried turning it over but nothing happened. So i checked for spark which there was none so i started trying to isolate potential problems. The dizzy cap looked a bit worn so i sanded back the contact areas, made sure the rotor looked ok. The points were pitted badly so i replaced them along with the condenser. Adjusted the points, but still nothing. Decided the condenser and ballast resistor looked a bit suss so decided to replace them to try and narrow down the options. After all this i still have no spark and confused as to what I'm overlooking. The only thing i just thought of now is the lead from coil to dizzy could be gone. Will check it tommorrow with the ol multimeter. Anyone got any ideas or can see something ive overlooked or forgotton? Any info, tips would be muchly appreciated, Cheers lads Sam

Interesting thought you have there man, let us know more info if you get it up and running!

Any pics?

hows your coolant? any signs of the level dropping? any overheading issues? i had a dead alternator recently, it took a few days or so to flattern the battery (charging at 11.8v) didnt experience anything similar to you. Those symtoms remind me of my blown head gasket a few years back. Would hardly turn over, wouldnt idle and i had to rev the crap out of it to keep it alive.

Its been covered before on this site. Here and here Give that info a read. You can run a weber on a 4ac, just needs to be jetted and tuned to run correctly. Also here's one for sale from a guy on here. Alot cheaper than 300 click

click

Depending on what the condition of the body and paint is, i would leave it white. Judging on what i can see in the photo's it looks like a pretty clean ke20. Stripping it down to a shell and respaying is a lot of work and takes a long time. Also depends if your planning a close door respray or full strip down...i reckon go with the original look...