altezzaclub

I assume you bought an auto rad. Go have it checked by a radiator shop, they can tell you what is wrong and how much to fix it. Check the igntion timing also. If it is retarded it will kill performance and adds to the overheating. Mind you, ours was auto when we bought it and it was hopeless going up hills. The manual conversion made a huge difference.

It certinaly stiffens panels up, but I don't know which are water repellent and which aren't. I used to use the 2-pot mix, which set off chemically with one bottle of hardner and one bottle of resin joined at the gun, but these one-shot aerosols might be quite different in water properties. Its great for forming 3D shapes, such as ribs under a f'glass bonnet or guard. Ooze it into a channel of cardboard then glass over it again.

Had a dyno run with a fuel/air curve?? Can you get hold of a fuel mixture display?? Without knowing where its lean and where its rich you could do the wrong thing completely.

Nice work- you make it seem so easy... but I'm sure there is a lot of problem-solving in there beforehand.

oohh nice! Welcome in! How do you get the car so high for those stands? I'd love a 1ton jack that lifted a good meter high in one hit. ..and some details on that sump??

What did the tech say about them?? They should be spotlessly clean if the filter is good, they work in a clean environment in the inlet system, not like diesel injectors. I can imagine they would block up if shit came down the line. He would notice that. Have you pulled the fuel rail connection off and measure the flow rate? Even just to see that it pours out everywhere.

haha! Not long enough Philbey. 5weeks I think, a week to strip, a week with the tank fitting and welding, and three weeks solid for everything else before the rally. Steve can be the welder, he's got much better over the time and it will stand him in good stead for the next 40years. The 'new' wire feed welding is certainly much neater, easier, and doesn't deform the rest of the metal around it. If you make a mistake you just grab a grinder and start over. So many toys are much better than in the 1970s..... rachet-ring spanners, cheap hoists, MIG and TIG, 18volt battery drills, engine stands...

What diff does the TE have?? Borgwarner or Jap banjo?? Most of the variants depended on local availability and local assembly in bigger countries. Usually I reckon America got large and lazy motors, Australia got small and lazy motors, and Japan used all the really good gear we love. If countries were just inmporting cars from Japan they got the good stuff, like NZ after it dropped local assembly, but if there was a local factory you got what was being made locally. I assume Aussie got 4K, K40 and K50 boxes on BorgeWarner diffs, while the USA was getting 3T with T gearboxes and banjo diffs.

It depends on what "sports muffler" means.. If that is also straight-through then it will all be noisy. If it has a wall that the gases run into it will dampen well, that's why I like the three chambers idea. The pulses hit the wall that is stuffed behind with fibreglass while the gases just flow across the middle to go out the exit.

Thanks for photo Terry-

'Yes' is the quick answer, but the real noise reducton comes from the last muffler at the end. Get the longest 2" resonator up front and a tri-chamber at the back. What do you have on there at the moment?

Got extractors on there already?? ..or are they later in the list? Aim to lighten the flywheel and see if you can get it all balanced while its apart. A new oil pump and you have a bottom end that will take 7000rpm and last for years. If you're keen you could have the block walls sonic tested & fit 5K pistons, so you have a 1500cc 4K. The carb and exhaust can be done later when the budget allows.

The cage was built too low for a guy well over 6foot with the frame to match, his head was jammed in between the side rail above the door and a diagonal bar that went from the main hoop to the front corner by the windscreen. I mean his HEAD was jammed, that's without a helmet! The only way to get room was to cut that diagonal out, which is part of the over-built system CAMS wants in the national series cars, so he can't do CAMS Nats like it is.... meh- big deal, there is plenty of rallying to do without that. I want to slice all the feet off the whole thing and raise it up 50mm hard against the roof, then we can replace the diagonal while leaving some head room. Meanwhile, the weeks slip away while the girlfriend is on holiday and the RA40 sits neglected....

It would be worthwhile doing the head, its only the valve guide seals that are smoking, so long as the bottom end is OK. How are the compressions? Any bearing rattles on startup?

Love the cheap fix-ups! Do you have a spare body or just spare bits?? Its not hard to drill all the spotwelds out, just time-consuming. They make a special drill bit for it, ones with a spike in the end, and you just grab an old flat-blade screwdriver to knock in gently around the weld and split the panels. So it you have the spare body you could take the whole 1/4panel off in your spare time and fit it later. If you're lucky you'll run into some keen young guy at TAFE doing spray-painting and he'll set you up for a complete respray. Its not hard for you to sand it all back and prep it, you just need someone good with a gun to make it look great.

lol yes! I haven't got over having a couple of guys who worked for me demonstrate how to break into a car in 30seconds flat.. that was in the days before computers and internet, so it wasn't quite as subtle as this!

http://chrisinmaryville.net/warning-about-car-door-locks.html Source: http://beforeitsnews.com Warning About Car Door Locks Hole Under Door Lock Wednesday, I approached my truck from the passenger side to place my computer bag (aka my man purse) in the front passenger seat. As I reached to open the door I noticed there was a hole right under my door handle. My first thought was, “someone has shot my truck !” I began to think about it and inspect it a little closer and the “light” slowly began to come on. I phoned my friend who owns a body shop and asked if he had any vehicles with damage to the doors that looked like a bullet hole. “Yes, I see it all the time. Thieves have a punch and place it right under the door handle, knock a hole through, reach in and unlock it, just as if they have a key. No alarms, broken glass, or anything.” I then placed a call to my insurance agent and explained it to him. I was puzzled that they left my GPS and all other belongings. Here is where it gets scary ! “Oh no, he said, they want the break-in to be so subtle that you don’t even realize it. They look at your GPS to see where “home” is. Or check your address from Insurance and Registration in your glove box. Now, they know what you drive, go to your home, and if your vehicle isn’t there they assume you aren’t and break into your home.” He said they will even leave a purse or wallet and only take one or two credit cards. By the time you realize there has been a theft, they may have already had a couple of days or more to use them. (I didn’t realize my situation for two full days!) They even give you the courtesy of re-locking your doors for you. Periodically, walk around your car, especially after you park in a shopping center or other large parking area. Report thefts immediately….your bank w/missing check numbers, your credit card agencies, police, and insurance companies, etc. Below is picture of what the hole looks like. Hole Under Door Lock One would have to look pretty darn close to notice a hole like that. If the hole was on the passenger side I would never see.

I was thinking wear in the dizzy shaft, but obviously not. That quote make it sound like an air leak, so the choke covers the lean mixture when cold but when its warm the lean mix nearly kills it. Have you had a go at the idle mixture and idle speed screws? Check around the inlet system with an aerosol or a tube in your ear. Inspect the rubber tubes on the vac setup. Swing a spanner on the manifold nuts. That 2-piece gasket on the stock 4K manifold is a scene for disaster I reckon, although mine was leaking out the exhaust and not in the inlet.

Can you get the long doors and the rear glass for it locally? You could pump the sills full of expanding foam to stiffen them now you have moved the B pillar. That would help stop the body flexing.

Nice! A full rebuild like that will last another 30years! Are you going to leave the inside and under bonnet/boot paint in white or also make it undercoat grey?

That's because I reckon every member of a society should be armed, so you don't need a standing army, as the American Constitution said back in the days of forming modern democracy. The 2nd amendment was to keep power in the hands of the people, and if they valued their society they were expected to fight for it. But having a standing army is a great place for risk-takers to really show what they are made of. Anyway- Probably.. P platers are usually blamed for wild driving and accidents, they have inexperience and hormones on their side, and often are going through the very drunk stage of their lives. I was no different, although there were no restrictions on licences in those days, I suppose I was both lucky and a bit more skilled than most. I think motorsport teaches you more about driving than anything else, if any of you have thoughts of trying it some day all I can say is get out there and get into it. It is great fun, ultimate excitement and teaches you things about car control you will learn in no other way.

So that means an actual new distributor?? How long has it been doing it? and how did it start? Gradually, or suddenly?

No, it just means the sensors & the gauges are different or your bearings are in much better condition than mine were

No seat belts and an eight inch steel spike sticking out of the steering wheel hub.....

When I was at CRC we had Flashwax, which was white spirits with wax dissolved into it rather than the wax/white spirits-water emulsion that 90% of polishes are. It spread the wax very evenly as a liquid, and had very fine grinding particles to make it easy to rub off. This meant it didn't remove much of the paint. I don't know if it is still available, or if you can find some similar product that has no water in and a very fine particle size.