altezzaclub

Well, I got back up to the farm last week, and what with December and girlfriends and mates to help and Christmas... the car was exactly as I left in on Dec 1st. Time had been spent ruining little brother's Corolla's ride and then trying to fit a DCOE with linkages that made no sense and jets that would lean out a Prius.

Just search Rollaclub as this gets discussed a lot. The main thing is to decide what you want to do with the car, as the most versitile cam is a stock one, then any mod to that narrows the range of what the car can do. You won't load three people and luggage into it then pull a boat using a race cam! Same with lots of round-town stop-start driving, not good on a hot cam at all. ..and, changing it is a pain in the ass! Do a compression test to see if the rings and valves are OK, because if they're not you might as well pull the motor out to fit the cam and do all the other jobs at the same time.

Which I assume is a little 30L steel box in the boot... Yeah, I thought that would be the case, so it makes attachment quite difficult. The Datsun 1600s have a neat system, but it would hard to adapt here. Will you make the rear diff/crossmember bolts accessible from inside the boot?? A couple of holes drilled in the floor with rubber plugs and you stick a socket extentsion down them to unbolt the back of the diff. ...or is the tank going to stop that too?

What are you planning for the outside of the cross-member?? They all look like they should have the same mount.. a heavy bolt fixed to the car with a split rubber bush in the crossmember and diff mount holes. If you plan a solid mount then make a sheetmetal cylinder like you made the cage feet and weld them onto the shell so the crossmember and diff mounts drop onto them. Easy to fit a captive nut in them and have a large washer with a rubber mat supporting the crossmembers. The diameter fit would have to be pretty good, tapered to just too big, which is why they use big rubber bushes to take up any errors.

They can be, depends what they use as solvent, but they evaporate away very quickly. By the time you reassemble it the solvents would have gone. Those aerosols that are very heavy have non-flammable chlorine solvents like the old dry-cleaning fluid.

I would assume that on a steady 12V current it shouldn't move at all, like turning on the ignition. The tacho works with pulses turning an electromagnet, although they were the old ones and maybe new ones are all electronics. So anyway, I figure if it goes to full revs on any 12V source, its had it I'm afraid. Maybe it is all electronic and something died in there from a voltage spike when you connected or disconnected the leads.

If you take out the last two Phillips screws you can lift that base-plate out and expose the advance weights below them. Give it all a clean, preferably with the dizzy out of the motor, but make sure you know exactly which way it goes back in. There is an O-ring down the shaft that is letting oil vapour up into the dizzy, but its not worth replacing at the moment. You have to strip the dizzy right down to bits. Then again, does it have sideways play in the rotor shaft?? That will alter the points gap and timing, and when the main bush is worn its time for a new dizzy. You can still buy brand-new electronic ones for a couple of hundred bucks.

lol yes! that is the high-volatage contact from the top center inside of your dizzy cap! It won't run without it in place! It sits in with a spring behind it to keep it pushed down on the rotor, and the bit broken off is the rim that held it in place. You might be able to 'screw' it into its spring again, but if not get a new dizzy cap.

There is only one factory making them now I think, they are all the blue 4-1 design. Someone sells them on here now, I saw a post recently. $250 odd. The cam wil cost under $200 to be ground and have the followers resurfaced to suit, then you only need a gasket set to do the job. If the compressions are good don't even take the head off, but if it will be improved by a valve grind then whole job is easier with the head off. That allows you to sort out the carb and extractor fitting in the best way possible, rather than fighting with it in a dirty engine bay with half of it hidden under a tilted motor. They are simple engines and easy to learn about.

Ah- clean with a solvent like Brakeclean or carb cleaner, so it evaporates away afterwards. Grease the square cam where the points rubbing block touches, that is why your points need re-setting all the time.. The cylinder is a capacitor, called a condensor in the dizzy, and it stores up electricity then discharges it all at once to build a fat spark. So if the condensor is old and leaky the spark is weak. If you're pulling it apart, oil the pivots and rubbing faces of the advance weights underneath the plate that holds the points. If they dry out you will lose your machanical ignition advance. Use engine oil on them. Don't forget that the power wire comng into the dizzy and going to the points must always be insulated from earth, so assemble any junctions carefully.

I found a giant improvement upon using SU carbs, but I also fitted the extractors and a cam while I had it apart, so it all added up. Is the 2" exhaust onto extractors or the stock manifold? ................................................ I think it might have been Evan who had a small-choke DGV. You can get 26/27 versions for small motors, or a few options- 26/27 - 26mm primary venturi: 270 CFM 23/27 - 23mm primary venturi: 235 CFM (1979-82 Fords) 23/29 - 1979-up Chevrolet Chevette

Here's how I did it- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58878-how-to-fix-your-abysmal-headlights/ Basically you take the "COM", which is the power feed in the stock headlight bulb plug, and use it to power a pair of relays. Then you earth the relays to turn them on and off via the stock dipstick on the steering column. The relays feed power straight from the alternator to the bulbs and then to earth. This means a much smaller current goes through the column dipswitch so it works better, and the large headlight current goes through a relay that is designed to take it. You can get special relays for the job, which is what I would use if I were to do this project now.

That is so true! ..and solving problems in old threads isn't too bad, it won't help that guy but it still comes up on Google when the next guy tries to do it.

Weber 32/36 or similar size downdraught. A size smaller is fine. Off a Cortina or Fiat or buy new from Weber I suppose. You need an adapter plate to fit the stock inlet manifold Twin SU carbs. Needs a Lynx inlet manifold, so this forum is the best for finding one. PM ones for sale from a year ago. Single DCOe side-draught Weber. Also on here, the Weber is common but the inlet manifold just fits K motors. Motorbike quads! Make a manifold, its been done a lot and there are picture of how to do it around. If you're not fussed about performance get the 32/36 sorted out.

It might just be coincidence, although you can get voltage spikes from jump-starting. Does it have a 4-6-8cyl selector switch on the back?? You could flick that over and see if it still just goes to max. It doesn't sound hopeful.

How is it wired in?? Coil negative to the tacho to earth??

r/b is the power feed from the stock relay to the bulb filaments. Then each filament is earthed at the dipswitch. That's the r/y and r/g.

Yup, they don't call them Rooineks for nothing. All the Poms get a fast education in the power of Aussie sunshine...

Good thing it was a tank you were driving and not a KE70! That Audi does look good!

What actually happened?? Were the cams broken or were the lobes ruined??

The headlights earth through the dipswitch. So power is fed directly to the bulbs when you switch the headlights on, and it either earths the low beam or the high beam to make them work. Its a terrible system, which is why I changed to having relays power each beam and then go to earth directly. The headlights were immediately twice as bright. The wiring diagram I posted above shows the earthing back to the dipswitch, and that strange set of drawings show how each part of the copper contact pile earths as you move the lever. The contacts get dirty or old and burnt, and the resistance gets too high for the current to flow to earth efficiently. The only other item in the circuit is the relay that feeds current to the bulbs when you turn the lights on. If that is OK the problem is most likely in the earthing of the high-low switch. Another exciting Corolla innovation is to have the lights go out after you turn a corner and the indicators self-cancel.... Sometimes just the dash lights, sometimes the headlights.

Well worth a try f they are there. It is much easier to make straight inlets for side-draughts than the multi-arm one for a single down-draught. Even twin SUs would be easier to make a manifold for, but if you have the ZE manifold around you might as well use it.

bike quads!

If you still have the original wet struts on the car the shock absorber will be part of the strut, no insert. The shaft is just chromed steel and you can easily have that shortened on a lathe. While it is stripped you can have an adjustable coilover threaded sleeve welded to the outside of the strut, so you keep all original components but lower it as much as you want.

First motor conversion? What are you planning for it?? Trying to get it on the road or just motorsport?