altezzaclub

Where did you mount them Reed?? The engine mount seems a likely place to take one fat wire from the starter +ve and split it through three fuses in a sealed box. The "easily reached" part of it all is the trick! Actually, I might use battery cable to come forward from under the manifolds and mount something by the alty. That wire is not going to be fused, but neither is the main battery cable going to the starter anyway.

nah, not a chance! I took the rear seat & the passenger's seat out for a few months while rebuilding a house, and the doors are way too small compared to the room inside. Blankets on the roof?? 3am run? :laff:

This is the KE70's fusible link, usually found sitting in the most inaccessible place on this poorly designed 4K, right on the starter motor! As you can see, it is actually three fusible links in one and immediately goes to a terminal that splits the power up over the car. I lost the headlights, and after blaming the relays I'd fitted with the upgraded lights, finally found that the link had broken off the ring. That was one wire, the other two broke as I took the thing apart. The insulation is cracked from having the exhaust manifold just above it, and the wires are brittle. You can see that one wire only does headlights (sidelights/tail-lights are on another), one wire does only the ignition coil in the 'run' position, and the big white wire does everything else. I have new fuses for the headlights on my new relay system, but that coil feed should be fused one way or another. So, seeing the spares shop don't have them, what options has anyone found?? Cobble this back together? Might last a year or two... Replace it all with one 30amp inline fuse? Blow one circuit and everything dies at once... Do away with them completely and rely on the other fuses around the car? Just burn the half metre of wire to the relay/fuse box.

Ta- I'm thinking about some of the Euro cars that run a shaft across the firewall to their usual booster on the "left-hand" side. There's also the option of a smaller booster off another car, I have a very small diameter one on my Datsun 1600.

Benhachi how are you doing the remote brake booster setup? The 18RG in the rally Celica has Weber socks jammed up against the booster, another job on the list to sort out.

Sooo.... Its gone from nice unmolested stock machine to drag racer and drifter with the whole hog of mods, and back to the lowly 3K. After all that work, what have you learned over the last 6months you've owned it??

Have you looked at the spark plugs? Which ones are wet?

Whip the valves out and check the condition of their seats. With the head off you should at least grind them in if they are good, or have them re-cut if they are badly worn. Check the head for straight with a steel straight-edge and feeler gauges, or have a head shop do that. It may still need a skim. The head gasket set will include new valve stem seals to be fitted. I assume you mean the leaking plate was the cause of the overheating. It would be unfortunate if there was some other cause of it overheating that you didn't solve this time around! Whip the radiator out and flush it upside down, that can't hurt. Was the car tending to run hot in the past?

The fusible links are just short bits of wire with joins on them, usually right at the battery or alternator, or starter motor... wherever power is distributed to different circuits. You can see where they are drawn in the circuit in this picture, but in the car they might be right on the battery positive terminal. Your friend would be right about the internal voltage regulator, most altys are like that now. Sadly, you either learn a lot about electrics in cars yourself or pay a lot of money these days. It is just time-consuming tracing circuits and checking for power, and at $90/hr it soon adds up. Its not hard to do, any car thief could hot-wire that car within a minute!.

Do you have 12V power at the coil?? Do you have a $10 multimeter to start wth?? The auto lockout wires are these- http://www.rollaclub...801#entry590801 All you need is 12V to the coil, usually via the ballast resistor, 12V to the starter solenoid, 12V through the main starter cable, and 12V to the carb fuel shutoff solenoid. If you have those 4 circuits live, it will fire. If you are missing the coil or carb solenoid it will crank over but not start. Does it do anything? The B/W is usually the starter solenoid on a KE70. White alone is main power from the battery to somewhere important. G/B is flashers, R/L is reverse lights.

A dolly is the thing you hold against the outside of your guard when you hit the inside with a hammer. They come in various shapes of steel, but a solid bit of wood works fine. Get a 100x100 timber about 200 long and round the edge with a file or rasp or sander. Hold it flat on the outside and hammer the inside against it. It will pay to take the guard off. You could lay the guard on a bit of plywood sheet and gently hammer the inside or roll a solid castor wheel over it.

I didn't think anyone on here had a 6AF engine.. Its all 'K' series and a few "A' series really. Anyway, how about these- make up a simple little manifold from exhaust pipe and an airbox. How much room is there under the bonnet? http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64828-itb-keihin-bike-carbs/

Here's the usual KE70 wiring setup- Those fusible links can be cracked internally and give very dodgy power. The heat from the engine kills them over time.

What sort of readings off the O2 sensor??

The problem is always the lack of RWD motors nowdays, so most motors have to be turned sideways. The only performance 4-cyls would be Mazda MX5, Honda S2000 or Altezza 3SGE, so you can see that the 4AGE is the nearest to a bolt-in. Are you keeping an eye on this? http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64392-steerfast-rally-ke30-2-door/ Are any of the wreckers up in Cairns any good? I hunted through a couple last year but they seemed a bit small.

Well, last week it was time to catch up with little bro' at Coolangatta and fix some stuff on the house in Kingaroy. I hit the farm to see how the RA40 rally car was going on the way up and back too. With some neat use of all the back roads it turned into a great 7days of driving on the limits of the sknny little stock tyres. It rained nearly every day, all day! The boring part is getting from Muswellbrook to Armidale, and from Coolies up to K'roy. Those roads are far too straight, too "main" and actually have cops occasionally! All the rest usually don't even have white lines and are full of 25-65kph corners!! The car ran fine, did everything it was meant to, but the water got into a headlight relay and corroded it, so I must do something about turning them upside down. The only time I needed lights was getting back to Orange as I stayed too long working on the rally car that day and made it just as it was dark. Its about 500-600km a day at 100kph, a great tribute to how Toyota built these cars. Somewhere in there is a weird little hippie town called Nimbin, where everything is devoted to dope, and prior to that is a tiny town that had a KE70 parked by the Co-Op warehouse. I left a note on it, the keys were in it but no-one around, and the guy in the local shop said "it belongs to Louie but he probably won't sell it, he's had it since brand-new"

This was done by putting in an old shock and poouring engine oil around it to soak up the heat on the inside of the strut tube. Then Steve put a stack of quick tacks all the way around it so we didn't blow any holes through or distort the inside. Then we refitted the Bilsteins- the "C" spanner they supply is just not up to the job, so it was woolshed spec again. With two weekends left to the rally sprint and university starting on Monday, I left him to it... this should be fun!

I cracked the whip and we had the spring seats taken off the struts, then we welded them back on 50mm higher

Well, I got back up to the farm last week, and what with December and girlfriends and mates to help and Christmas... the car was exactly as I left in on Dec 1st. Time had been spent ruining little brother's Corolla's ride and then trying to fit a DCOE with linkages that made no sense and jets that would lean out a Prius.

Just search Rollaclub as this gets discussed a lot. The main thing is to decide what you want to do with the car, as the most versitile cam is a stock one, then any mod to that narrows the range of what the car can do. You won't load three people and luggage into it then pull a boat using a race cam! Same with lots of round-town stop-start driving, not good on a hot cam at all. ..and, changing it is a pain in the ass! Do a compression test to see if the rings and valves are OK, because if they're not you might as well pull the motor out to fit the cam and do all the other jobs at the same time.

Which I assume is a little 30L steel box in the boot... Yeah, I thought that would be the case, so it makes attachment quite difficult. The Datsun 1600s have a neat system, but it would hard to adapt here. Will you make the rear diff/crossmember bolts accessible from inside the boot?? A couple of holes drilled in the floor with rubber plugs and you stick a socket extentsion down them to unbolt the back of the diff. ...or is the tank going to stop that too?

What are you planning for the outside of the cross-member?? They all look like they should have the same mount.. a heavy bolt fixed to the car with a split rubber bush in the crossmember and diff mount holes. If you plan a solid mount then make a sheetmetal cylinder like you made the cage feet and weld them onto the shell so the crossmember and diff mounts drop onto them. Easy to fit a captive nut in them and have a large washer with a rubber mat supporting the crossmembers. The diameter fit would have to be pretty good, tapered to just too big, which is why they use big rubber bushes to take up any errors.

They can be, depends what they use as solvent, but they evaporate away very quickly. By the time you reassemble it the solvents would have gone. Those aerosols that are very heavy have non-flammable chlorine solvents like the old dry-cleaning fluid.

I would assume that on a steady 12V current it shouldn't move at all, like turning on the ignition. The tacho works with pulses turning an electromagnet, although they were the old ones and maybe new ones are all electronics. So anyway, I figure if it goes to full revs on any 12V source, its had it I'm afraid. Maybe it is all electronic and something died in there from a voltage spike when you connected or disconnected the leads.

If you take out the last two Phillips screws you can lift that base-plate out and expose the advance weights below them. Give it all a clean, preferably with the dizzy out of the motor, but make sure you know exactly which way it goes back in. There is an O-ring down the shaft that is letting oil vapour up into the dizzy, but its not worth replacing at the moment. You have to strip the dizzy right down to bits. Then again, does it have sideways play in the rotor shaft?? That will alter the points gap and timing, and when the main bush is worn its time for a new dizzy. You can still buy brand-new electronic ones for a couple of hundred bucks.