altezzaclub

Yes, we're running the RA40 booster on the RA65 m'cyl, and all the funny line dividers on the firewall. That will all go later on... I want to find a smaller booster to give the rear Weber socks more room, maybe an earlier Corona or something, or run a rotating tube right across the firewall with the booster and m'cyl on the passenger's side. Steve is chatting to someone about the pistons, we can get either compression.

Can you raise the float level without losing performance? This is a Weber DCOE problem, but I haven't heard of it on a stock carb, and the fact it has just started suggests the carb fuel level is not the problem..

Ah, the dreaded understeer! So that chassis damage is from the strut bottoming out and pushing the turret over. Definately time for a cross-strut bar to throw that force over to the other side. How is the crossmember and LCA mount?? The only advantage of rear discs is that they are faster to change pads in, but I expect rear shoes to last all season. We had to adjust the rear shoes up quite tight then they bedded in very quickly with a nice high firm pedal. We fitted the RA65 master cyl too, it is a size bigger than the stock RA40, as Steve is really tall and I set the pedals as low to the floor as I could to give him legroom. You never need a lot of pedal pressure on gravel as the brakes lock up so easily, so you can run large diameter short movement master cylinders. We're discussing 11:1 or 11.5 :1 pistons for the new motor, I'm not sure abou performance gain versus longevity. .

ouch... So you will be wanting a copy of our cross-strut bar design.... wind on the bar and push the towers apart! Was that hitting a vertical object with the front? It looks like the damage that we replaced, but worse. Some front-end many years ago I expect. Get a pair of RA65 rear slave cyls, they are the next size up and a bolt-in job, for more rear brakes. I think they were only $30 each brand new. I intend to pull all the fancy diagonal system and bias limiters out of the RA40 sometime, just go back to a straightforward system with an adjustable limiter. The current motor is pretty stock, hauls OK and doesn't give trouble. Steve has a spare 18RG that we will build into something better, but at the moment we need the chassis at its best. Have you taken out the rear arms and checked the rubber bushes recently??

haha! I can just see that pounding through the potholes and broken roads over here!!

The problem with getting another car the same is that they all rust in the same places! Don't hesitate to put a notice up at your local TAFE where they teach panelbeating, asking for some young advanced apprentice to give a hand with a project car for beers... You could offer the car up for a panelbeating teaching model if that is how they still work. Many years ago I had my Lotus Europa used in the wheel alignment classes for free alignments while they got an exotic car to work on. Also, find some small panelbeater and take it in, ask him how much he'd like to shape the metal for you to weld in. Make a mate out of your local wrecker too, they will often let you have shit for nothing if they can't sell it. The Triton steerng arms I got last week came for nothing, but the L'cruiser steering bar we turned into a cross-strut bar I paid $80 for as they are in great demand.

Any idea of the compression ratio? Does it oversteer easily?? The couple of things you listed like the thicker front sway and big front brakes but stock rears suggest it will understeer. Is it hitting the ground or having the diff hit the floor?? We have managed to transform the RA40 from a 'too-low' understeerng pig into a car that is easy to drive and place where you want it facing the way you want. The rear brakes lock just before the fronts and the tail steps out to aim the nose into the corner. http://www.rollaclub...089#entry641089 So much to learn and experiment on...

Nice work- Love the hood lining! :laff: Are these still lying around?? Are the Peugeot discs ventilated? Fit 14" rims OK?? I'm thinking of moving to that system on the Celica rally car....

That's the best way to do it ^^- Otherwise chat to a panelbeater and get some plain steel off him. He should have steel the same thiickness otherwise welding becomes difficult with one piece taking longer to melt. Zinc coated steel does stop it rusting, but sadly the zinc burns off where you weld it so the joins all rust anyway. The vapour from welding zinc coated steel is toxic and the heavy metals bind to the nervous system, giving you the zinc shakes when you'v done it for long enough. Think of it this way- its taken 30years for the original steel to rust through, so if you replace it with ideantical stuff you have another 30years before you worry about it again!

Csn you take a light off the coil +ve and stick it on the steering column, so you can see the moment the coil lost power?? I saw it happen many years ago when a coil wire broke off and floated away under right-hand bends then re-touched when the car straightened up. That was on Dad's 1966 Vauxhall. Don't forget to check the fuel cutoff solenoid too.

That is the weirdest idea! ...and for sale at $6000!!

This topic came up on Altezaclub today. as we all have a coil on each plug. I don't know which part of the ECU fires them, but I suppose the moment you go electronic like that there is no need to fire them in pairs. Not as small as those m'bike ones with our deep head between the twincams, those look a better idea. If you wan to add a comment there just PM me. http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclub/index.php?showtopic=13667&hl=

Lovely! Get that waterpump on it! Swap to 32/36 carb, then SUs, then a DCOE.. No wait- inch and 3/4 exhaust, then a 2" with three different mufflers! No, hang on, a 270deg cxam, a 275 deg cam and the 280deg cam!..... nah- just put wheels and a seat on it for the grand-kids!

Leave the layout stock with some Nolathane in the arms. Just fit whatever springs and shocks work OK. That way you can concentate on getting it mobile and see how it feels on the track. Sigma LCAs, Corona struts, vented discs, anything to get some bite at the nose and get fancy after you've had some fun it it for a while.

If it is giving some charging, then its an alternator problem I'd say. You need to put power into an alternator to make it work, so if you have the power wire suplying 12V, that is all the wiring needs to do. The alty has a set of diodes inside that turn the AC curret into DC current for the battery, and probably one of those has failed. There are wiring diagrams in the topic about the 4K KE30 that won't start which has been up on here in the last week or two. Take a look at that.

Well, the spares shop had several that were ordinary slide terminals on each side & a fuse in the middle, not quite what I wanted. Then seeing it rained all yesterday and was still raining this morning I gave the wrecker a miss and fixed these. I soldered the three wires together and screwed them into one end of the junction, and crushed the steel ring to fit the other. Then I tossed it in the oven at 100deg with two layers of heatshrink. Its certainly stiffer, but I'll make sure I support the wire close to that joint.

Check these- http://www.alliedbearings.com.au/datasheets/toyota/gearbox-kits-commericals#vehicle_make_489 Lite-Ace Make & Model Year Engine 2/4WD Speeds Comments Parts All 08/74-00/82 All 2WD 4 sp Part: GK-TOY0001 - $214.45 Buy » All 01/82-12/83 All 2WD 5 sp Part: GK-TOY0002 - $332.90 Buy » Let us know what you learn-

Just get the grinder out! Before you cut anything, measure the height of the wheel arches off the ground, so you know what you're starting with. When you get the springs out, measure their rate. Either- A- Measure the spring outside diameter,(about 130mm) the wire thickness (about 12mm) and the number of free coils. There will be wear/rust marks on the end coils where they touch as the car sits normally, so all metal that is marked won't be working as a spring. Only count coils that are 'active", usually about 6-7. With those three numbers, get a sprng rate from here- http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm You will see nstantly how chopping one coil off affects the rate. B- Get the bathroom scales, two mates, a metre of 4x2 timber and a tape measure. Have them hold the timber horizontally on the spring which sits upright on the scales while you get a starting point length, then they push down about 50kg. You get the compressed measurement and work out how many kg/mm or lb/inch. Both A and B should agree roughly. Now you know more than most people on Rollaclub about spring rates, you can chop some off, re-measure and try them in the car. See what it feels like and then chop some more off if not happy. When you've cut them too short to be useful, you will have a spring rate that you are happy to drive around on without bursting discs in your spine! Go buy some lowered springs with that rate.

Looks wonderful! Look after it nicely, ones that good are getting very hard to find.

aren't you guys all busy welding the doors shut and fitting outboard motors to the boot lip? This "Lucky Country" must be wearing a bit thin up there..

Well, if you want one, why not? Some people have done the whole hog and moved the pillar back 200mm & made the door bigger, but there is no need to. It depend on how well you do the rear door windows really. 5mins with photoshop...

I'm not sure which Sigma models azzy, but the half a dozen Sigmas at the wreckers have a couple of different lengths. The steering arms are also in different lengths. We fitted the longer Sigma LCAs to the RA40 Celica with no hassle, just trim the inner bush length a tad. But then we had very little thread left in the Celica clamp-on steering arms, so after we did one rally on them I figured we would get some seamless tube and make longer ones. Sadly, no-one has a left-hand tap for threading the tube, so I headed back to the wrecker. The long Sigma steering arms are the same length as the Celica, the shorter ones very short. No manufacturer seems to make longer arms, it is easier to make the balljoint arm longer and run a short ajusting arm. 90% of everything is rack and pinion now also. I found the passenger's side steering arm on a Triton ute was 3mm longer, but they use locknut instead of clamps, so the overall unit becomes longer. They are being fitted now.

wooo.. that is thorough! I don't think any of my cars have been checked like that- they just seem to get anal about oil leaks so its off to the car wash before rego every time!. Still, the suspension & steering sortout will make it a nicer car to drive.

holy sht Batman! That is keen! Just a restricted water pump on the gearbox output & you'd have a private dyno! Hmmm... It might get rid of the lurch in over-run I have... Now THAT would be nice- So we have a crank position sensor, a MAP sensor, individual coils, a knock sensor, water temp sensor and air temp sensor, a programmable ECU... on Kehnin quad carbs! ..and I thought the ultimate K motor was philfrederick's twincam!

Well, we're missing something- These are the only wires you need to run the car, except for the fuel shut-off solenoid on the carb, as the KE30 never had one. If the 4K carb has one of those you'll need to check that it goes "click" when you turn the key on, and stays live when you crank. Hmmm... you'll also need the earth rom the motor to the body to the battery! So the two red circuits work the starter motor, the heavy battery +ve and the solenoid activator from the key. The green ones provide spark, one that by-passes the resistor for cranking and one that goes through the resistor for running. If you have the red ones live it should crank, and if you have the green ones live as well it should run. You could simplify it more by just running a wire from the battery to the coil +ve and from the battery to the starter solenoid, that's how you'd steal it. If I was the auto sparky I'd do exactly what I listed there to get it running, then chase the wiring loomb to find the factory wires that perform those functions. You trace the coloured wires from the engine bay back to the steering column and check where they go and what they're joined to, and why they aren't live. You need to find the immobiliser itself and bypass it if needed to get those circuits live.