altezzaclub

If that is so, it doesn't sound like a starter problem. The jumping still only puts 12V into the system, just more amps, and your new battery should have plenty of amps. Can you find out what makes the beep, and why? Maybe it is some warning alarm.

I thought the torque converter bolted to the flex plate, the plate that replaces the flywheel in a manual. So the torque converter is fixed in place. Mind you, I've never owned an auto, only pulled them out.

That is so gorgeous!! We will catch up on a rally somewhere where the Celicas gather!

Suggest there was "an old rally car project" before... what was that one? Another Corolla? At least you have started this the right way. Its hopeless trying to build a rally car without stripping it out completely and putting back only what you want.

Run a wire from battery +ve to the coil and try starting it, that will pin the problem down to the "start" wire. Grab a wiring diagram and see where the power from the "start" position on the key goes to. It will either power the coil directly or it will go to the ECU and let that do the work.

Just go over this again for me- You took out one injector, and fuel came out of the rail?? How was "without one injector plugged in" not plugged in?? The injector was in the rail and in the manifold, but not wired up? or the injector was not in the rail and you caught the fuel? "with the injector out it had ambi pressure...." refers to the fuel rail not building up pressure or somethng else? How long did it run for and on how many cylinders?? Its not quite clear enough to decide if it is injecting fuel or not.

Make sure the solenoid at the end if the red/yellow wire goes click when you turn the ignition on. What happens if you wind the idle speed screw up as far as it will open the throttle.

One of those is the cold start injector sensor, so maybe that is running it rich. https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/33404-4age-coolant-temp-sensor-s.html I've got an AE86 manual, but it only lists the resistances for the gauge sender unit, and my Altezza 3SGE manual has similar voltages to what you quoted, but it only has one sensor. The specs for that temp sensor unit are probably online somewhere, if you know who made it.

Its a pig in a poke as you might be buying one that has a crummy bottom end, or worn rings, or had the oil changed once in three years... At least you know what your motor is like, and the $500 would cove the head job if you did it yourself.

Was it like this when you bought it.. maybe the reason the builder sold it! Sounds like you need to start from the bottom and check eveything, ignition, compression, mixture ratios... and see if he got the basics right to start with.

Why do people change them?? Don't they understand them, or is there really something inherently better in LCAs and MacPhersons apart from being cheaper to manufacture? The spring acts as a sway bar & with a little work you cxan adjust its stiffness, there is a lower A-arm to hold the wheel fore and aft in castor, and the strut gives camber control. ..or do I have the wrong photo here?? You can alter spring rates & anti-roll stiffness, although getting -ve camber might be exciting. I'd never played with one, but I'll take a look under Rob's when I go around there next.

Do it !! ..and use it! That way you will have a neat car to zip around in while you assemble the bits for the conversion, and quite likely the conversion will never happen so at least you have a faster KE70. How extensive is the planned rebuild?? Rebore & bearings?? Drill it out to 5K and make it a 1500cc, have the flywheel lightened and get it all balanced. Buy a nice cam for it and some extractors, and fit a 32/36 Weber or a single DCOE. That might keep you happy until you are really ready to drop another motor in, and the 4K should sell to someone on here quite easily. Plus.... no engineering required!!

lol- When I get down toWagga I'll come and kick your tyres and drink your beer!

that's interesting. I told the wrecker my R31 Pintara diff was noisy and how much did he want for a Skyline one, and he said he wouldn't sell me one as they would all be noisy.. So I thought the whole production line was crap.

Nice idea. The multimeter is too slow to respond to fast impulses, so it either doesn't read or gives a low reading. I want an oscilloscope!

Nah, don't do that, it locks it solid. Fill a gap in between two teeth on one gear with weld, then fill the corresponding tooth on another gear, so the diff has half a turn rotation then its hits the welds and stops. That allows the first little bit of turn-in to happen and cuts out the initial understeer.

Now THAT is sharp! If it works let us know.

hmmm.. that is pretty steep alright. All that heat has to go out of the radiator too. Maybe we will take a look at temps this year. I can't remember what the 18RG is using, it comes to the farm in a 44gallon drum!

Dave, which bearings were noisy, diff or wheel? What did it cost to do? Those R31 diffs are a giveaway at the wreckers.

Once it starts it does run fine?? I assume there is a cold-start part of the ECU program, separate from the warm-running program. Is there hardware associated with that?? Some enrichment device or air bleed that might not be working correctly.

I wonder if the 'Start yeah Bastard solution" was a false result, it would have started without the can anyway.. That's the one test that pointed to the fuel side being the problem. How do you get it to start when it has refused to?? Will it crank a dozen times with no hope, then suddenly start on the 13th, or is it after you fiddle with something? Having it reliably not-start is just as important for working out why it won't.

I hope you didn't weld one tooth to another. Filling two teeth is much better for handling. How long before the Watts rear end.... :D

The R31s always whine, same Borg-Warner as the KE. Surely the Hilux lasts longer? What is wrong with the front spring?? They have been used on a lot of cars, from Corvettes to Datsun utes, an they have this neat property- I'd look upon it as a great challenge to modify the transverse setup to handle like you want it to.

grrr...!! So fedup with the ABC /mainstream media talkng about people owning assault rifles as the same as the military use, and them not being needed for hunting. Bloody arts graduates! The Americans are NOT ALLOWED to own assault rifles, which are full-auto machine guns with the flash new ones having burst fire of two or three rounds. They are only allowed plain ordinary semi-automatic (self-loading) rifles, which may or may not look like the military assault rifles. The media need to get their head around WHAT Obama is planning to ban- all semis, like Aussie has, or semis that look like military full-autos (which NZ allows but has tighter licencing over) Semis are GREAT for hunting, they allow that instant second shot if you don't kill your prey with the first shot, and you don't lose your line of sight by havng to lower the rifle to work the bolt. AND the Second Amendment has NOTHING to do with bloody hunting! It was especially put there to keep the citizens armed so they could overthrow a tyranical Govt, plain and simple. Having fought off their colonial opressors the Americans who crafted the Constiution had a very clear view about the imbalance of power when the citizens become subjects and then slaves. Of course all the Left are saying 'Oh you don't need to be armed, the Govt is good for you and will never be a tyranny", just like the Germans all said through the 1930s, or any of the many contries who allowed gun registration before the next politician used it for confiscation. :: sigh :: you would end up with such a false view of the world if you relied on TV. Just the propaganda mouthpiece of those in power.

Relay more likely than injectors. Poor contact somewhere in that system. Next time it doesn't start check for 12V in and out of the relay straight away.