altezzaclub

lol yes! that is the high-volatage contact from the top center inside of your dizzy cap! It won't run without it in place! It sits in with a spring behind it to keep it pushed down on the rotor, and the bit broken off is the rim that held it in place. You might be able to 'screw' it into its spring again, but if not get a new dizzy cap.

There is only one factory making them now I think, they are all the blue 4-1 design. Someone sells them on here now, I saw a post recently. $250 odd. The cam wil cost under $200 to be ground and have the followers resurfaced to suit, then you only need a gasket set to do the job. If the compressions are good don't even take the head off, but if it will be improved by a valve grind then whole job is easier with the head off. That allows you to sort out the carb and extractor fitting in the best way possible, rather than fighting with it in a dirty engine bay with half of it hidden under a tilted motor. They are simple engines and easy to learn about.

Ah- clean with a solvent like Brakeclean or carb cleaner, so it evaporates away afterwards. Grease the square cam where the points rubbing block touches, that is why your points need re-setting all the time.. The cylinder is a capacitor, called a condensor in the dizzy, and it stores up electricity then discharges it all at once to build a fat spark. So if the condensor is old and leaky the spark is weak. If you're pulling it apart, oil the pivots and rubbing faces of the advance weights underneath the plate that holds the points. If they dry out you will lose your machanical ignition advance. Use engine oil on them. Don't forget that the power wire comng into the dizzy and going to the points must always be insulated from earth, so assemble any junctions carefully.

I found a giant improvement upon using SU carbs, but I also fitted the extractors and a cam while I had it apart, so it all added up. Is the 2" exhaust onto extractors or the stock manifold? ................................................ I think it might have been Evan who had a small-choke DGV. You can get 26/27 versions for small motors, or a few options- 26/27 - 26mm primary venturi: 270 CFM 23/27 - 23mm primary venturi: 235 CFM (1979-82 Fords) 23/29 - 1979-up Chevrolet Chevette

Here's how I did it- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58878-how-to-fix-your-abysmal-headlights/ Basically you take the "COM", which is the power feed in the stock headlight bulb plug, and use it to power a pair of relays. Then you earth the relays to turn them on and off via the stock dipstick on the steering column. The relays feed power straight from the alternator to the bulbs and then to earth. This means a much smaller current goes through the column dipswitch so it works better, and the large headlight current goes through a relay that is designed to take it. You can get special relays for the job, which is what I would use if I were to do this project now.

That is so true! ..and solving problems in old threads isn't too bad, it won't help that guy but it still comes up on Google when the next guy tries to do it.

Weber 32/36 or similar size downdraught. A size smaller is fine. Off a Cortina or Fiat or buy new from Weber I suppose. You need an adapter plate to fit the stock inlet manifold Twin SU carbs. Needs a Lynx inlet manifold, so this forum is the best for finding one. PM ones for sale from a year ago. Single DCOe side-draught Weber. Also on here, the Weber is common but the inlet manifold just fits K motors. Motorbike quads! Make a manifold, its been done a lot and there are picture of how to do it around. If you're not fussed about performance get the 32/36 sorted out.

It might just be coincidence, although you can get voltage spikes from jump-starting. Does it have a 4-6-8cyl selector switch on the back?? You could flick that over and see if it still just goes to max. It doesn't sound hopeful.

How is it wired in?? Coil negative to the tacho to earth??

r/b is the power feed from the stock relay to the bulb filaments. Then each filament is earthed at the dipswitch. That's the r/y and r/g.

Yup, they don't call them Rooineks for nothing. All the Poms get a fast education in the power of Aussie sunshine...

Good thing it was a tank you were driving and not a KE70! That Audi does look good!

What actually happened?? Were the cams broken or were the lobes ruined??

The headlights earth through the dipswitch. So power is fed directly to the bulbs when you switch the headlights on, and it either earths the low beam or the high beam to make them work. Its a terrible system, which is why I changed to having relays power each beam and then go to earth directly. The headlights were immediately twice as bright. The wiring diagram I posted above shows the earthing back to the dipswitch, and that strange set of drawings show how each part of the copper contact pile earths as you move the lever. The contacts get dirty or old and burnt, and the resistance gets too high for the current to flow to earth efficiently. The only other item in the circuit is the relay that feeds current to the bulbs when you turn the lights on. If that is OK the problem is most likely in the earthing of the high-low switch. Another exciting Corolla innovation is to have the lights go out after you turn a corner and the indicators self-cancel.... Sometimes just the dash lights, sometimes the headlights.

Well worth a try f they are there. It is much easier to make straight inlets for side-draughts than the multi-arm one for a single down-draught. Even twin SUs would be easier to make a manifold for, but if you have the ZE manifold around you might as well use it.

bike quads!

If you still have the original wet struts on the car the shock absorber will be part of the strut, no insert. The shaft is just chromed steel and you can easily have that shortened on a lathe. While it is stripped you can have an adjustable coilover threaded sleeve welded to the outside of the strut, so you keep all original components but lower it as much as you want.

First motor conversion? What are you planning for it?? Trying to get it on the road or just motorsport?

Never a truer word was spoken! You can't beat a small-medium sedan I reckon. Stripped out just like you have is the ideal way to build any motorsport car and just put back what you need.

It was last time I visited Cape Town actually, I suppose early 2000s. I went out to spectate on a rally (one I used to compete in) with the son of the guy I rallied with, and someone just had a simple accident turn very bad. Building the Celica I'm helping with atm has shown me how hard they are to get in and out of, but it should just be a matter of personal risk assessment.

Sounds like one carb flooding, or the other is emptying out.. Can you pop the tops off the carbs when it next runs bad and see how the two fuel levels compare?

What mufflers are on it? Does it have a resonator under the passenger's seat, or does it need one with a turbo? What type of rear muffler does it have?? A straight-through design? You deserve sore ears. A tri-chamber with an open centre? I reckon they're the best compromise. Is the muffler made with a single steel wall? The Altezza had a thriple layered wall, steel-fibreglass-steel, to stop the noise coming through the muffler walls and into the boot, then drumming into the car. I tried some noisy sports aftermarket thing but it was light in weight and too thin in the walls as the car droned. Currently I have an L-Sportline, an expensive American one with very thick stainless walls that is quite heavy. Sounds great out the pipe but is quiet in the car. How do I know? I cut sections out of all three mufflers and did a writeup on it in the Altezzaclub forums.. If you really want to solve the problem get a smaller exhaust pipe & more restrictive mufflers! You can try to stop the noise getting inside and try to absorb it once its inside.. Fill the car with pillows and blankets and drive it to start with. I've loaded the KE with all sorts of luggage for trips until there is barely space for the driver and it still doesn't absorb the sound from the bodywork steel resonating from the exhaust. Generally you tackle it with mats and sprays, like this- http://www.wikihow.com/Sound-Deaden-Your-Car For a cheap solution you could try the rubber-based deadeners- http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AX3687 The best absorber you can get is a foam/metal sandwich that you put under the carpet. You could give it a try, but its not cheap. Check out industrial and marine applications as well as car stereo places.

Everythng would look clean and unscratched really, all the internal plastic door panels, carpets. You just have to compare it to other similar aged cars you've looked at, and when you drive it everything should be tight- gearchange, clutch, steering, brakes...

Having seen a rally driver drown when they went off-road into a dam, I'd much rather have an old-style cage than a current CAMS one. They're damm near impossible to get in and out of quickly.

yes, you need to either slow the advance curve or reduce the mechanical advance at idle. Octane booster would be another solution, maybe try a bottle and see if it stops it. Get a timing light onto it and get some real readings to work with. I'd be interested to see how much the advance drops off as you open the throttle and lose that manifold vacuum. ..and at least you know its got good compression with that head job!