popandwar

Ok so I bought a new cap, rotor arm and plugs. I eliminated the leads by swapping them over from what was sparking and there was still no spark. The replaced dizzy worked fine until the acc cable problem. Timing was done (with a timing light) The timing now isn't constant it will be on one spot for a second a jolt to another then back for a bit. (If that helps) The dizzy is clamped down as tight as I can get it so it's not moving in that sense. I have a replacement condenser that I'll install tomorrow and ill double check the points connection as well tomorrow. Thanks for all the replies, will keep you updated. And yeah when it's running rough at idle I'll pull first and second out and nothing will change but will want to stall if I pull out third or fourth leads.

And there isn't any play in the actual shaft/sleeve where the dizzy meets the engine I'm just putting pressure on the cap

Yeah pushing on the cap not twisting it. As if the dizzy is on a very slight angle. But I know that's not the case and I'm right in thinking that the distributor retaining bracket is the only thing holding it in place? I tried loosening the bracket pushing it to where it sounded right and tightening it but it didn't work. I've tried two different caps and still no luck.

Hey, The problem is my distributor isn't sparking on first or second unless I push it towards the firewall. It's not the plugs or leads and it has a new cap, points an rotor arm. I replaced the distributor not a week ago (it was having the same problem only the old dizzy had heaps of play in the rotor arm cam) The recently installed one had the car running really nice until one day I had the revs high as I was climbing a hill and something relating to the carby/accelerator cable came loose and the revs skyrocketed. I undid the acc cable guide thing and put it back onto the spring mechanism and tightened it up, the revs had now dropped and the car was running really rough at idle. It was then I realized using the screwdriver method that first and second weren't sparking. It will run well under a bit of load but only occasionally and if I push the dizzy towards the firewall then you can hear it idling better implying that its sparking. So what is the problem? Did I somehow ruin the new(er) dizzy when the cable guide went or are the gears that power the dizzy perhaps worn somehow? Any help would be greatly appreciated. It's such a weird problem and its doing my head in.

Alright haha, might be time for an upgrade. The car runs fine, high idle but hasn't had a cough since I took this photo. Ill give it a clean and Suss out a new cap. As for the sideways play, ill check that out too. Thanks for all your help mate. Is carby cleaner flammable? Would this be a problem as a cleaning solution, seeing as the dizzy produces a spark?

any idea what the black thing is in the pic? it was under the condenser, it was essentially just floating around in there i think...one end (end you can see in pic) has a specific extrusion on it while the other appears to have a rougher surface giving the impression its snapped off of something

Excellent thanks mate, always a great help! :thumbsup:

This is a photo of my distributor with the breaker points and that little silver cylinder who's title eludes me at this point... Now I know that they're meant to be oiled or greased but this guy is gritty. •how do I clean it? (Just unbolt it all and warm soapy water, good dry and replace in reverse sequence?) •what do I use for oil/lube (wd40?) •would this be a leading contributor to breaker points continuously needing to be reset? (Like every 3 months or so?) And •I found a little black plastic looking thing under the silver cylinder I unplugged and in bolted, ill uploa a pic in the next post. Thanks for any help guys, if it helps you help me I did search YouTube for some video tips on cleaning distributors and I got as far as a guy showing me how to take the breaker points out and how advance works. (Very interesting, but not too much help)

Just packed everything up...spigot went in, test drove it, no shudder from the box but still wanting to konk out. reset the points...hey presto :lovin: all good. haha Thank you all for your help!

yeah i thought the box went on a little too easy the first time. I also read somewhere the car should run relatively fine for a while before the input shaft begins to start spinning out of alignment and causing trouble so perhaps I'm looking at two or more issues. after the bearing is in tomorrow i"ll see how it goes, could well be a carbie problem. It seems to want to konk out and i have to rev it a bit to keep it alive... I've blown a head before and it seems kind of like that but it didn't shake and splutter sooo i dunno haha. somethings wrong. thank you all for your help so far.

Yep, called my mate and he said "I knew we would forget something". Tomorrow morning the box is coming back off and spigot put in. I just hope it's not too late. It had a slight shudder yesterday on its first big drive and last night was horrible. So I'm hoping the clutch and box are still all good. I'm guessing that once the box comes off and there is metal shavings or bits of clutch or something I've screwed it, but if not should everything be ok? Should I remove the plate from the bottom of the box and check teeth? Thanks for your help guys!

so I'm not sure if it's fixed yet. I went out and disconnected and reconnected the wire Banjo mentioned It seems to be idling a bit stronger now...I have to shoot to work now. That'll be the test drive. Thanks for the help so far!

yeah it seems to run fine when accelerating slowly...it starts fine giving me the impression the points are fine for now, spark plugs are clean too. forgive me for this next response...it's my mate who is the more mechanically gifted and i don't know what a spigot bearing is :hammer: . i remember replacing the thrust bearing..haha. would upgrading to electric dizzy be a smart decision then?

Yeah we did, and the engine was on a hell of a tilt haha. I'll go suss it now... thank you for the reply :)