altezzaclub

Cheers guys- I found Central West Engineering Supplies do them here, but when I popped down the guy was out. I'll catch him tomorrow and fnd out what he needs. I might have to swap the RA60 back in just to measure the d'shaft length needed.. :( Anyway, that will get the KE70 shaft out and I'll look for that nut. Dave did you fit the S?? How much clearance did you give it at the diff yoke and did you use a two-piece?? The KE70 only seemed to have 5mm when I put it back up, so I assume the centre bearing stops it needing more than that. Not like a one-piece on leaf springs...

Nice work. ..and its been done the hard way! Those stands are so low the crap falls in your eyes all the time and there is never enough room to move. You can see why people use rotisseries, the final step after our 800mm high stands! It will be better than new when you're finished!

My $100 RA60 Celica diff conversion has run into the only serious problem.. Its a tad tight putting the KE70 d'shaft onto the Celica diff, it would be nice if the driveshaft was 5 or 10mm shorter. The diff nose has a different bolt pattern to the KE70 driveshaft, and the circular locating shoulder is a different diameter. The driveshafts themselves and the universals are different sizes, the Celica being about 5mm larger in diameter with heavier UJs. The overall lengeths are perfect, the Celica is a handful of mm shorter, but sadly the center bush is in a different place so each half of each shaft is a different length. So- I can't put the Celica flange onto a KE70 UJ I can't put the Celica driveshaft in without making new center bearing mountpoints on the KE70 chassis I can't split the driveshafts and use a KE70 front with a Celica rear halfshaft. It looks like I'll have to get the Celica rear universal welded onto a slightly shortened KE70 driveshaft. I can't see any 'farm spec' way around it. Does anyone know how to take the KE70 driveshaft apart?? The Celcia one has a flange at the center bearing so it unbolts into two halves. I can no doubt work out how to get the KE70 into two parts eventually, but thought someone on here might have done it. Any bright ideas on who would shorten and balance it around Central West NSW?? One place in Dubbo does, and one in Lithgow.

Ah- thanks Irokin. I see what you mean. Cheers Dave, that's what I did after I post the topic. The 'advanced' search ran through our topics and showed me that there is no cheap solution to mating the KE driveshaft to an RA60 T-series diff...

That would be great! This saturday night, 13th April, School of Arts Hall, Nowendoc Rd Mt George. 5.30pm to 9.30pm, car #1. I don't know what number we will have. http://cncscc.com.au...t Supp Regs.pdf I thought I'd take this photo at the start in case the car didn't look like this at the finish... and the other is the KE70.

Well, with the rally calendar being postponed after the rain earlier this year, Steve hit the pacenote practice rally in Oberon yesterday. A shock hit us when the scrutineer in Armidale failed the seat mounts on Thursday night, so it was all a panic to 'fix' something we had used in the past. With a new navigator this year, the recce was abandoned and all they had was time to drive through stage one without taking any notes. As it happened, I don't think it mattered.. I was busy soldering up the intercom with a 240V inverter in The Girl's KE70 cigarette lighter plug! Steve just drove what he saw, and most importantly didn't hit anything, nothing broke and nothing mechanical failed! Actually, most importantly he had a ball!! The car handles great, turns in well, drifts under power easily and is simple to drive, just like it should be! They started car 23, at the back of the field, and came 13th of 19 finishers, without pacenotes! There was a KE70 in there too, using the 4K motor and the mighty Weber 32/36. They were having a fun time until the fuel line pulled out of the Weber and it died.midstage., They finished 17th, and I hope to see them on here with a build thread. We are finally getting it to squat with springs off some tiny Toyota hatch at the wreckers, and raising the front has stopped stuff hitting the sump guard. It looks quite different to the first photos in the build. Next up is a night rally in Taree NEXT WEEKEND! No spotlight mounts at the moment, Steve has a week of Uni and I'm in Orange with the car in Walcha...

Which came up as I found you cannot mate the T diff pinion flange to a KE70 driveshaft. So I searched "T diff into KE" and got.... Can this be changed or is it part of the core coding??

Well done! There was a lot of work to get it so good! So, your Nan thought purple was great??

That's quite a story! Well done- What are you going to do with the car?? I assume it will never be road registered or used in gymkhanas again, and trackwork means a roll cage still to go in. The Pellandini is fascinatng, like the Marcos cars built on Mini mechanicals but better looking! They weigh about the same as a motorbike...

Ah yes, I forgot about the shocks! Not so simple then- You could try checking that one and re-shimming it if needed, but I've never done it. Other than that its easier to get another KE55. That Celica diff cost me $100 from the wrecker, so its likely a KE55 is worth less. You would get one cheaper on here, I'm sure someone has one lying around.. I have a feeling Rob threw one out at Xmas, but we're 850km from Beaudesert!

Yeah I can't see how the batery could cause that, so a carbie kit, or even just a good clean would be a start. Whip out the jets and check them, make sure the pump jet is pumping, and squirt petrol through the drillings with a syringe. Check the dwell on the points (better than feeler guages) and the timing. I'm not familiar with the 2R, but engines is engines and it pays to check ignition and fuel first.

Exactly! Now that you know why I'm fitting a Celica banjo diff instead of the Borgwarner.. I think they are quite difficult to tear apart and fix, as they are set-up inside the casing. So many hours are spent fitting the crownwheel and pinion in and out with different shims on different sides to get the wear pattern correct. I assume that's why I was quoted $1500 to have mine done, and it had to go 4hrs away to Dubbo. The banjo diff core lifts out the front as one piece, so you can set up all the clearances on the bench then bolt it back it. I reckon it would be easier to weld the spring mounts onto a banjo, or certainly just get another non-noisy diff. Mine has done about 150,000km, so Borgies don't last long! I'd love it if someone on here said "nah they're easy.." and put up a "how to fix your diff" thread.

Pass... I think its a two-piece but I didn't really look at it. Steve's bringing an RA40 one down tomorrow with the rally car, and I'll pop down the wrecker and see what is on the car I got the diff out of. (12years later I find this topic again and realise it was finished here-) https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65709-how-to-fit-a-celica-diff-to-a-ke70/#comments

check the pump diaphram is working- just look down the throat and work the throttle by hand. You should see a stream of petrol squirted in down by the venturi. It is meant to richen it when you boot it, so if that is where it is lean I reckon its blocked or leaking.

Did you get them?? I found mine by wandering around the wreckers with a set of calipers, and the front axles of a couple of 4WDs had 5mm longer. A LandCruiser and a Ford something...

OK, swapped them back today, and editied the post to reflect that the KE70 driveshaft has its holes in a rectangle too, just a different size. They both weigh within a Kg of 29kg at one end, so 60kg odd each. I borrowed the new neighbour's glass-topped bathroom scales so didn't want to dump a whole diff on them! The RA60 diff casing is probably notceably lighter as it contains bigger brake components and bigger crownwheel & pinion. Sway bar washers might be the go for the bolt size difference, they are only about 1.5mm thick and have a locating flange punched out of them.

Its the lack of stuff you don't need that makes it simple. No power steering, no aircon, no ECU stuff, no large complicated overhead cam stuff, no fancy inlet systems and no engine covers.. So.. another K motor going in?

Well, any old KEs or TEs worth raiding in there?? That would have been a $50 Celica diff!

Would be ideal! But its only 1mm radius so its a very thin spacer...

yeah I'm hoping!

he RA60 panhard rod is 50mm shorter than the KE70, but even that is not enough to make the KE70 one fit. It is still 45mm too short to reach the RA60 mount. So, a test drive was undertaken with two bolts holding the driveshaft onto an unlocated diff nose, no panhard rod and the bolts sloppy in the mount holes! It was enough to carefully get it up to 90kph and find it is quieter than the Borgy, the brakes work fine, and so tomorrow it comes out while I solve these problems. Driveshaft- I'll try a Celica shaft or graft the rear UJ & flange onto the shortened KE70 driveshaft. Panhard rod- I'll get the Celica one sleeved 95mm and keep the KE70 stock. Springs- Celica rears, RA40 or RA60 or whatever I can find. Bolthole diameter... I shall think about...

Surprisngly enough, for all the differences in the mounts, the diff sits at quite a natural angle when fitted.

The biggest problem is in the pinion flange. The RA60 flange is 10mm longer towards the gearbox, so the KE70 driveshaft pushes in beside it with some difficulty. The KE70 driveshaft goes up with about 5mm of gap, so you can see that it is a tight fit. That will destroy the back of the gearbox over a bump I reckon. The holes in the RA60 are on the corners of a rectangle that is different in size to the KE70.. You can put in two bolts OK. Worst of all, the locating shoulder on the KE70 driveshaft is about 12mm bigger in diameter than the depression in the RA60 flange, so it does not fit in there.

The RA60 spring has a bottom diameter 10mm less than the KE70, so the springmount on the Celica diff does not locate a KE70 spring very well. I'll try a couple of Celica springs for rate and see which is best.

The RA60 has an extra inch between the left and right mounts across the car, so it splays the arms 12mm each side. The lower mounts are the same distance apart, but the RA60 bolthole is about 10mm lower than the KE70. The arm bush width is the same, so an arm fits into either type of mount. However the RA60 uses 14mm bolts, the KE70 uses 12mm, so using the KE70 arms and bolts means they are sloppy in the RA60 mount holes. To use the RA60 arms means drilling the KE70 chassis mounts out to 14mm, or sleeve the RA60 bushes down to fit the 12mm bolts at the chassis end. To use the KE70 arms and bolts I could weld 12mm washers onto the RA60 mounts, or maybe press an RA60 bush into the back end of the KE70 arms.