altezzaclub

Should be fun! Go the 18RG! We're looking for another one, Steve should be driving one as a daily and we'll need a spare shell sooner or later.

15-20 thou. nothing startling and it doesn't seem to affect rocker geometry. I had combustion chamber volumes of 31ml stock & an area of 30sq cm. Its educational for you to work out yourself and compute how much to remove.

Stacks on here, it depends on- -what you want the car for?? Going to work only, blasting around the mountains, drifting at midnight... -what condition is the motor in now? Will it stand extra power and revs or is it worn out? -and how much you are willing to spend?? $2000? $3000? Work on rebore, bearings, balance, lightened flywheel, skimmed head, carbs, porting, cam, extectors, exhaust.. cam chain and tensioners too? a lot of money.

If you have a dwell meter it is more accurate than using feeler gauges. Once the points have a pit on one side and a lump on the other then feeler gauges measure it wrong every time. Even new it is easy to not get that gap perfect. 5deg is nothing! Do they respond well to more advance? 8-10deg on 95 octane??

Go for it Seb! Any ideas or info, give us a PM.

Nope! Never! Not a fan.. Why put a heavy big six into a car designed for light 4cyls over the front axle? Fit an 18RG for period class, or a 4AGE if torque is not required, or hunt down one of the turbo'd 4cyls. Can you get the 3SGE anywhere? If you're happy to cross-breed, get an S2000 Honda motor.

Plenty to read about- If I were you I'd start looking around for a rustfree car with a good body, the mechanicals are easier to fix. Might take you 6months to find one. I'm a great KE70 fan for their superior suspension but the two-door 55 series are the best looking.

Well, it looks a lot better than I was expecting from reading the description! There must have been a lot of work to get it looking like that, well done.

Yep! Turbo'd. Some guys have money AND dedication.. We, on the other hand... There are plans for a better engine than a completely stock 18RG. Its amazing how doing well increases the enthusiasm!

They're the 17mm ones, and the options are usually 19mm. I suppose they are a close fit as they hit the wheel on that flat washer instead of centering it with a tapered face I haven't worried about them as I was planning to use steelies, but with the number of classic mags at the wreckers I thought we might get some for the Celica rally car. That means reviving the wheel nut debate as we have two completely different sets of nuts on the car now! I put another 1800Km up over last weekend with the rally up at Walcha, and today the propshaft hit the engineers for a Celica flange to be fitted. The Celica diff is in place and I'll do a big writeup of how to fit an RA60 Jap banjo diff to your KE70 next week or so.

Wow that is nice! Left-hand drive.. where are you from?

Ah- they have posted final results that are different! He WAS quicker going downhill, and ends up 7th instead of 9th. In some good company too, Evos and rotaries..

What's the second choke setup? Still vacuum?? Any chance of the second throat opening before the intake velocity is built up enough to cover it? It sounds like a full carb strip into a thousand pieces and go over it with solvent and a compressor. The Celica was leaning out like that on the rally two weeks ago so I pulled the DCOEs off and did exactly that. Steve said it pulled like a schoolboy all night over this last weekend. Must have been some dirt in the drillways or something in the jets I couldn't see.

Well, that was fun! The night before we were fabricating a spotlight bar to mounts spots, and on the morning of the rally we were still welding sump guard mounts onto the crossmember. The rally was one main forest road from its start at Mt George up the mountain to the peak. With State forest land cutting it into three parts, they had a 25km stage, a little open section to an 8km stage, another gap and the final 8km to the top. Then when all the cars were up the top they turned around and ran the stages downhill! There was another road coming into the middle stage so that was a spectator spot, but after the last car ran down we all drove down the stage behind them. We caught up with the competitors as they were queued up to start the last stage then followed them down that 25km too! A magic, smooth tight highly cambered road that got very slippery for a muddy section towards the bottom. It all started about 6pm and finished about 11pm, so we were driving the 3hours back over the same sort of roads to Walcha at 2am!! He came 9th overall and won his class, but the funniest was listening to him complaining as we met him on the downhill stage start... "The first stage was too slippery, I couldn't get traction, everything was really slow and we're doing terribly..." Then after dropping the tyre pressures he was rapt with the blast downhill! Of course the results showed that he was slower coming down than going up!! Anyway, the car is fine & nothing fell off or broke, although a decision between a tree or a very large rock (neither of which were actually ON the road) resulted in a stiff strut on one side, so the Bilsteins are off to Sydney today to be checked out. Then its all go for Oberon in two weeks!! So long as we can find a ditch or a ramp somewhere....

Sno those springs are harder than that- we checked them today after last night's rally and they're about 120lb/in, compared to the stock Celica of 160. It all depends on how many free coils there are, which is hard to determine. That's a 4.8 Weir Performance CW/pinion in the stock T series with welded spider gears. Up next! Report on last night's rally after pub dinner!

You might have accidentally shorted something and popped a fuse, or a fusible link if the TE27 uses them. Have you got a wiring diagram?

This one- some GT Corolla hatch with a 4AC in. I didn't check the rate, but Steve said about 70lb/in.

Yeah, now people are talking $300-$400 I can see that! The Celica is a drop-in really, and they are more common in wreckers than AE86s or T18s. The only major jobs are to lengthen the panhard and solve the drive-shaft, the major advantages are banjo design for LSDs and bigger brakes. oh- and I hope they don't whine as easily!! ------------------------------------------------------------ To update- I had them shorten the driveshaft 8mm & weld the whole Celica flange & UJs onto the stock shaft. The d'shft is split with a 16mm spanner, one tiny part of a turn at a time.. Its still got a slight vibration in it at 50-60kph, so I'll get the balance checked at Retorque next time I'm in Tamworth. As I swap diffs between cars I've been taking the driveshaft apart and fitting the Celica-ended rear piece to different front pieces (auto & manual boxes) The vibration always follows the rear section. The last time I swapped halves I didn't pay enough attention and had the UJs slightly out of alignment and the center bearing in backwards. Although it looks symmetrical if you have it the wrong way around it moves the d'shaft joint to one side slightly. The vibration was so bad it threw half a litre of oil out past the rear seal over the 550Km. When I pulled the seal out I found it was almost new, which is what made me inspect the d'shaft more closely. A new seal and a bit of care has got it back to not leaking and a slight vibration.

Cheers guys- I found Central West Engineering Supplies do them here, but when I popped down the guy was out. I'll catch him tomorrow and fnd out what he needs. I might have to swap the RA60 back in just to measure the d'shaft length needed.. :( Anyway, that will get the KE70 shaft out and I'll look for that nut. Dave did you fit the S?? How much clearance did you give it at the diff yoke and did you use a two-piece?? The KE70 only seemed to have 5mm when I put it back up, so I assume the centre bearing stops it needing more than that. Not like a one-piece on leaf springs...

Nice work. ..and its been done the hard way! Those stands are so low the crap falls in your eyes all the time and there is never enough room to move. You can see why people use rotisseries, the final step after our 800mm high stands! It will be better than new when you're finished!

My $100 RA60 Celica diff conversion has run into the only serious problem.. Its a tad tight putting the KE70 d'shaft onto the Celica diff, it would be nice if the driveshaft was 5 or 10mm shorter. The diff nose has a different bolt pattern to the KE70 driveshaft, and the circular locating shoulder is a different diameter. The driveshafts themselves and the universals are different sizes, the Celica being about 5mm larger in diameter with heavier UJs. The overall lengeths are perfect, the Celica is a handful of mm shorter, but sadly the center bush is in a different place so each half of each shaft is a different length. So- I can't put the Celica flange onto a KE70 UJ I can't put the Celica driveshaft in without making new center bearing mountpoints on the KE70 chassis I can't split the driveshafts and use a KE70 front with a Celica rear halfshaft. It looks like I'll have to get the Celica rear universal welded onto a slightly shortened KE70 driveshaft. I can't see any 'farm spec' way around it. Does anyone know how to take the KE70 driveshaft apart?? The Celcia one has a flange at the center bearing so it unbolts into two halves. I can no doubt work out how to get the KE70 into two parts eventually, but thought someone on here might have done it. Any bright ideas on who would shorten and balance it around Central West NSW?? One place in Dubbo does, and one in Lithgow.

Ah- thanks Irokin. I see what you mean. Cheers Dave, that's what I did after I post the topic. The 'advanced' search ran through our topics and showed me that there is no cheap solution to mating the KE driveshaft to an RA60 T-series diff...

That would be great! This saturday night, 13th April, School of Arts Hall, Nowendoc Rd Mt George. 5.30pm to 9.30pm, car #1. I don't know what number we will have. http://cncscc.com.au...t Supp Regs.pdf I thought I'd take this photo at the start in case the car didn't look like this at the finish... and the other is the KE70.

Well, with the rally calendar being postponed after the rain earlier this year, Steve hit the pacenote practice rally in Oberon yesterday. A shock hit us when the scrutineer in Armidale failed the seat mounts on Thursday night, so it was all a panic to 'fix' something we had used in the past. With a new navigator this year, the recce was abandoned and all they had was time to drive through stage one without taking any notes. As it happened, I don't think it mattered.. I was busy soldering up the intercom with a 240V inverter in The Girl's KE70 cigarette lighter plug! Steve just drove what he saw, and most importantly didn't hit anything, nothing broke and nothing mechanical failed! Actually, most importantly he had a ball!! The car handles great, turns in well, drifts under power easily and is simple to drive, just like it should be! They started car 23, at the back of the field, and came 13th of 19 finishers, without pacenotes! There was a KE70 in there too, using the 4K motor and the mighty Weber 32/36. They were having a fun time until the fuel line pulled out of the Weber and it died.midstage., They finished 17th, and I hope to see them on here with a build thread. We are finally getting it to squat with springs off some tiny Toyota hatch at the wreckers, and raising the front has stopped stuff hitting the sump guard. It looks quite different to the first photos in the build. Next up is a night rally in Taree NEXT WEEKEND! No spotlight mounts at the moment, Steve has a week of Uni and I'm in Orange with the car in Walcha...

Which came up as I found you cannot mate the T diff pinion flange to a KE70 driveshaft. So I searched "T diff into KE" and got.... Can this be changed or is it part of the core coding??