altezzaclub

Rome wasn't built in a day. You're better to make sure you recover completely from the operation rather than tackle too much and not get it done properly. The KP61 will still be there in 6weeks.

awww... sounded real interesting fom the title! Mind you, broken wrists come from navigating, not the other way round! Ya gotta learn to hug yourself as it rolls, not put a hand up on the roof!

This is just one of almost daily incidents of cop behaving badly in the USA. I haven't seen anyone track them on a website in Aussie so I don't know how much it happens here. This is what Govt does to you- just the biggest gang of thugs. What really makes me mad is that nothing happens to these cretins. So next time a cop stops you, don't ask to read the ticket.. http://blog.simplejustice.us/2013/05/10/olegs-kozancenko-beaten-for-what.aspx

That's a pretty common setup. Check out the Rides section and PM a couple of guys to find out what cam they use and what other work like higher compression they did. All in all, a cam cut, a good carb and a free-flow exhaust is stage one. To that you could add a lightened flywheel, a head skim and porting, and an electronic dizzy.

What does "reving out" mean?? It stops reving and won't go any faster? What sort of revs is it stopping at? The easy guess is fuel stravation- you could check what the pump delivers in L/min. or instantly stop the motor as it revs out and look inside the float bowl. Compare how much fuel is in the bowl to how much at idle.

That is stunning- still the mighty 4K motor? or were they a T-series up there?

The easiest is to keep the 3K crank and rods and block, and bore it to 5K pistons. The stroke is the same but the bore makes a massive oversquare 80.5 by 66mm. This gives you a 1325cc motor Then the problems are- Will the 5 K piston rise to the correct height. You'll need the gudgeon pin to piston top heights. I think you might run into the 10mm deck height difference there. Will the head give the correct compression ratio, depending on whether you have flat-top or dished 5K piston. You have a short stroke 5K now, only 66mm instead of 73mm, so to get compression up you would need to replace dished pistons with flat-tops, using the same 5K head.

How did they do it?? Just heat them up and increase the pitch of the spring?? Does it feel the same to drive with? Just as comfortable?

Spend the weekend reading the build threads on here and Toymods... Its the fastest way to get an education in modifying Toyotas. hmm... 63 pages, starting at this link- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/forum/54-rollaclub-rides/page__prune_day__100__sort_by__Z-A__sort_key__last_post__topicfilter__all

What carb are you chasing to go with this setup?? Can you find a 32/36 Weber downdraught, or even better a single DCOE Weber?? That will make a big difference once you have the exhaust and cam in.

Pick the motor, gearbox and diff to use, then worry about suspension I'd say. Use a motor that fits a good close-ratio box and one you are familiar with (and can access parts easily after blow-ups!) I'd start with a good gearbox and grab whatever motor fits. Check 2nd and 3rd ratios and find what has the closest. In the end, that will determine what cams you run and how fast you go. Currently we are using a W53 or similar, can't remember exactly which it is, but it has the highest 2nd of all the Toyota W boxes. The best upgrade for us is an Altezza 6speed, unless we go up another couple of thousand dollars for something that is a factory close-ratio box. Take a look at the Steerfast Corolla build and aim for that!. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64392-steerfast-rally-ke30-2-door/

I don't think they are the same height. I thought the 5K was the same as a 4K, which is different to the 3K. Someone will now for sure. Ah, no- Wiki says- Now you might not get the rocker geometry working. Your 5K is running hydrasulic tappets and the 3K will be solid. The setup is quite different. The 5K head would ahve to be used for compression ratio. The 4K can be bored to 5K size if the walls are OK, but there might not be anything left of your 3K by then. I don't think its going to work at all.

You reckon it will still rev OK with a stroker kit?? I don't suppose it matters unless you're on the track at 7500rpm all the time.

Love it! I want a driveway like that! Love the aircon on the dash top too!

Oh no, you're dead right with that example, that's all shock work. I'm thinking of 75-100mm deep subsidences in the road surface, the 'potholes with slopes' that trucks leave, enough for the suspension to relax down into. When you hit the far side of it a stiff spring will push the body up harder than one of half the rate. ..and above that, a stiff shock will resist the strut compressing enough to give you a jolt. The whole movement in manufacturing has been to soften springs, stiffen sway bars and make the shocks work harder over the last 30years. Modern cars combine handling with comfort in a way old cars can never match.

...wait 'til you see my plans for a Woolshed Spec dry-sump system!.... :ninja:

Within the usual limits I'd agree. If you have a constant ride height between two springs but one is twice as stiff, the car will only go down half as far on a bump using the stiff ones. So that bump will feel more noticeable as the accelration is twice as much over half the distance travelled. But generally springs set the ride height and shocks set the ride comfort. I do know you can see some horrible cars bouncing down the road on rockhard springs while the V8Supercars look amazingly pliant considering how low they are. That 130mm of bump travel is pretty good, you must have had that well sorted.

Hey- you're not meant to have time to get on Rollaclub! Get back to work! Propshaft balance isn't 100%. There's a resonance starts around 50kph to 60kph, not really a noise, just a vibration in air pressure, and it seems to vanish or dissappear into the general noise by 80kph. Some vibration in the outside mirror at higher speeds too, but overall its not much. I wondered if it was part of the motor working harder to haul the tall diff, but I'll chat to the driveshaft man about it. I'm pretty sure the speedo under-reads, it was 5% over with the 4.3 diff, and we've changed that by 10%, so 95 on the speedo is probably 100kph now. I'll check it over the 5Km odo check on the way up next week.

The problem is that Aussie roads are quite 3rd-world, not nice smooth tarmac like V8Supercar tracks.. at least that's what I've found. Maybe living East of the Sandstone Curtain is different. You need suspension travel to drive up the backbone of the Great Dividing Range, and there's no fun in driving along the flat coastline.

That IS a surprise! Did you fit the supercharger yourself?? Is the sound stunning?? A banshee howl as it comes on boost?? The only one I've driven was on an electric clutch so it only kicked in when you booted the throttle. Wonderful to drive!

Cheers!- I assume they look like this, one end flattened and one end open. Usually the flat end (the top) closes right up and maybe touches the body mount 15 or 20mm past the spring end, and the open (diff) end might touch 1/3 of a turn, then instead of 7coils working we have about 5.5 active coils when loaded. You can see where they touch by just looking at the dirt marks in the coils. Using Pontiac Racing's rate calculator here- http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm We can put in 5.5 active coils, wire diameter 10mm, OD of spring 115mm, press enter and get a rate of 87lb/in, or 1.55kg/mm. So they are quite soft springs and I am definately going to hunt a pair down! The RA40 had a kerb weight of 1000kg when new, we gutted it completely then put in a cge, so I reckon the front weighs 600kg and the back 400kg. The diff weighs 70kg, the wheels 30kg and the Bilsteins have a gas pressure of 40kg each. Subtract that from the 400kg and the springs are holding up 110kg each. They should compress from 320mm down to 150mm. 70mm of that is wire (7coils at 10mm) so we get 80mm of travel in the rear suspension that the shocks & bump stops have to control. That's not bad, a little less than we have, but worth trying to get more squat under acceleration. Thanks for that!

haha! It may look cool, but having chased this one down some winding roads, don't expect handling or ride comfort from cars like that-

Then check the compressions and see if one cylinder is down. That would be a burnt valve. All cyls low would be old rings. Have you checked the points with a dwell meter and checked the timing?? Have you checked the leads with a multmeter?? Any of those components could give low-speed misfires. Did you check-tighten the manifold nuts & spray for inlet leaks??

$180 is good- I think I paid $1400 for the Altezza's.... back in the dayz when I wuz rich! The adjustability of Konis is what makes them so useful, and the fact they can be stripped and re-valved makes them great for racing.

hmm... they look strange. Too much chin.