altezzaclub

What he says! Divert the vent pipes from the tappet cover to a plastic bottle and see what that shows. Do a compression test too and see how bad it is. I've never see it that bad... I wonder if a ring is broken... Any rattles or tapping sounds??

What would you gain?? It would still be a pushrod non-crossflow singlecam leaning-over piece of crap... You'd be better to try and fit a newer head onto a 4K block, but seeing as they are all belt-driven twincams it is not easy.

I suppose so- The heat burns the zinc off so galv will rust around the weld just like plain steel, although it will be better over the rest of the area.

Its hard to see the actual shape from the photographs, but I assume you cut out one panel to cover the main part, and cut a zig-zag adge where it bends in a right-angle. That is easy to bend and gives you a set of teeth. Then you cut the next panel as a strip and give that a set of teeth also, so the two sets of teeth get welded together where they overlap as well as welded onto any steel that has some strength left. The usual problem is that rusty steel just melts away, so you can oinly weld onto good steel.

Get the same thickness steel. Just chop up and old door or whatever Corolla panel you have lying around, or buy a square meter of steel from a sheet steel engineer like a aircon ducting company. It has to be plain steel, not galvanised, as the zinc fumes cripple your nervous system when you breathe them. Clean the paint off from where you will weld, it makes it harder to weld and the burning paint fumes are also poisonous. Spot weld it with a quick hit then bend it where you want it, another spotweld, bend some more... When you have it attached all the way around you can fill in some gaps, but you don't need it fully welded all around the edge. Don't weld around the corners, that introduces stress crack points.

When it rains. If water gets into the car at the corner of the windscreen it can follow the path shown down that area. It may have leaked for a year or two in the past and then had the leak fixed. The water that goes into the ventilation grille in front of the windscreen when it rains may also find its way inside. There seems to be a water trail where I've drawn the circle. It is easy to see in your other photo.

Some nice bike engines out there- This is a Yamaha R1 in a Fury sportscar. My son's friend just wrote off her Hyabusa, so there should be an engine in Canberra...

Is the windscreen leaking there?? or the vent system?? If you can get in there with a welder then welding plate over it is better than f'glass, but if you can't get at it then f'glass is better than nothing. It grips well to rust holes and rough steel.

Yep. Actually, wire brush time more than grinder. ...and then put fibreglass over it if you want to add some strength back in.

Androino! Control an Arduino from your Android device using a ...sadly followed by 45 comments from people who can or can't get it to work correctly.. I think I'll investigate our local TAFE for any keen young man who wants to get involved with rallycars.

That sounds terribly simple! Swipe Steve's phone and mount it with the Arduino boards on the bottom of the drench container under the roof vent! Argh! Trying to read Arduino and Google pages this late at night does my head in!

My Gregory's manual says CR is 9.0 to 1 I thought it was 9.4, but it seems that is the 4KE figure. It probably varies between countries too. I didn't give the piston a volume, being a flat top, but in reality I'm sure there is a small volume there as it is not completely flat and doesn't necessarily come up dead level to the block top. Then again, making cheap mass-produced cars with castings for combustion chambers probably has errors of several cc between cylinders, never mind between motors. Your 33cc works out fine for a CR of 9.0 Isn't it 8.98?

OK, the new ones are fitted and its all running. The webcam this morning showed no glow from the steel pipes so they must be getting the heat away. I'll get some video if we take the Rolla up to Armidale this weekend. More here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__105

That's what I was planning.. Probably a resolution of 256 woud be fine for most of the sensors, this is rallying after all! They've got amazing stuff in the Ebay shop- I wish I knew as much about electronics as I do about cars! Do you think a raspberry pi would do it? I was keen when I read about them being a tiny $25 computer, but I see they're $80 in Aussie. So much to learn!

Some tyres tramline worse that others, and the offset makes a big difference. We ran zero-offset on the rally car and it was so bad on tarmac!

Well done! Could you run the coil on the cambelt cover at the front? or does it take so long for the heat to kill the ignitor it won't matter? Find a stainless steel microwave at the dump and grab the casing. It is so polished it makes a great heat reflector and weighs nothing as a heat shield over the extractors. Good luck for the weekend!

Just what I thought the moment I saw it! A better rear bumper and an 18RG motor... You might own this for decades!

Done! New headers, holes drilled, 18mm nuts bought & welded on, and we have them fitted with the oxy sensors. Final job was to take the resonator down to the exhaust shop and have them cut 'n weld the end 50mm on, as it had rubbed thin when it rode on the overlap on the extractors. So then I was back to where I should've been two weeks before! I pulled the LCAs out and fitted new LCA ball joints, and the 'how to do it' is here- http://www.rollaclub...lca-balljoints/ I saw a couple of other jobs that need doing under there too, but this week I want to just run it and check it before Uni holidays start and The Girl wants it. I expect to be up in Armidale to give it to her and I'll stay on at Walcha building the rally car. With a bit of luck I'll have the webcam on my ancient laptop and can watch the extractors under the bonnet!

With the nuts lubed stuff goes back together. First up is the LCA in place, although remember to leave the inner bush bolt loose while the LCA is hanging down. That only gets tightened when the car's weight has it at the correct angle. Once the LCA is in place the new nut goes on the steering arm & balljoint. When that is tight the split-pin goes through and gets snipped off to size. The strut goes back up on its 12mm nuts, just loosely, and the lever pushes the LCA down to get the strut on top of that steering arm. Use a 14mm spanner to tilt the arm flat. It won't quite line up perfectly on my arms, it sits on this angle. Putting the jack under the LCA and giving it 4 or 5 pumps closes it up so the bolts can go straight in. I then lifted the LCA until the stand under the car creaked, so it was more or less at road angle, and tightened the LCA inner bush bolt. With all the bolts back in and tight, it left the worst job.. greasing it! I greased the new balljoint, and being empty it takes a lot out of the grease gun. I tried the steering balljoint with the broken rubber but it wouldn't take any, so I ended up using a screwdriver to smear grease into the split rubber. One day both sides will get replaced. On the other side I put a blanking plug in the grease nipple hole as they can get wiped off by a rock. I keep a couple of good grease nipples in the shed. This side can take its chances... So, car down on its wheels, collect tools and check everything is tightened, and hopefully the clonk clonk going along the farm road to the Woolshed Rallying HQ has vanished!

I spread the grease around the hole in the LCA and put the new one in. Now you need a bit of pipe or a large socket that just fits on the outer lip of the new balljoint. You face the LCA upside down on the stand you used before, put the balljoint through the hole (make sure the rubber cover goes through cleanly) and carefully smack it downwards with your smaller pipe. I used a large socket.. I put the LCA on my thigh while I held the socket and the hammer, so it was sitting evenly on the stand. . This time I gave it 3 whacks or so and checked it was going in straight, gave it a few more, checked it again... It does slide all the way in to allow you fit the C-clip. Take it easy with this, using the two screwdrivers you need to get one end in place and slide the other end down over a screwdriver blade so it doesn't cut your new rubber boot. It all works OK with a bit of care. Now we're ready to re-assemble. I wiped a bit of grease out of the old balljoint and put it in the castor rod mount, and on all the bolts I took out. I never took the nut off the castor rod any further than that shown, that is plenty to allow it to move around. By not touching the back nut I kept the wheel alignment castor correct. The steel crush tube in there runs in the steel chassis mount, so a bit of grease in there helps. Use rubber grease if you're really fussy.

Now you can undo the castor rod and the inner LCA bolt and you should have an LCA in your hand. You should check it over for damage... sigh.. the inner rubber of the bush is OK, but its certainly not 100%! There is a C-clip on the balljoint, just as in the kit you bought, and that needs digging out of its groove. Ideally you have flat-faced C-clip removal pliers (yeah right!) but two screwdrivers do the job. You're throwing it all out so don't worry! At this stage you need a press or a special balljoint removal G-clamp. ...or you take the LCAs and balljoints down to a workshop with a press.. or you do what I did- You'll need to ask your technical supervisor for a hollow tube that you can just drop your new balljoint down. Luckily my much-abused axle stand had the right internal diameter. So it was just a case of holding the bit of LCA around the balljoint horizontally on the rim (up higher than shown) and smacking it with that little block hammer. It takes some whacking, but don't be shy, just stand the bolt up straight and hit it .. You should end up with this...

Read this right through so you know you have the tools to do it before you start! Bits of pipe, grease gun, a solid hammer....! This is a straightforward job, well technically straightforward and simpler than changing a distributor, but it does need some mechanical hammer work! A side takes about 1-1.5hrs without hurrying. I did one a day, no rush. First, buy two to these. Mine were for my Corona LCAs, I don't know if the KE70 etc are identical, but this part number fits Corona, Celica, & KE Corollas in theory. Get organised- I have a floodlight, several square of carpet to sit on, and I keep the tool box nearby. I get out the tool I want, use it, then put it aside in a pile. At the end of the job I have all the tools I used in that pile, and as I put them away I clean them and think “did I do UP whatever I UNDID” with each one... Jack the car up, take a wheel off, spend 5minutes inspecting everything you can see. I haven't done anything on The Girl's KE70 for ages except run up thousands of Km on it and fit the Celica diff, so I found a few things to put on the list. First up is to remove the strut. I loosened the front nut of the castor rod right off, which makes the castor rod easier to get off the LCA as the rod has studs in the top, not bolts. So, undo the 22mm on the front of the castor rod, take off the lower nut on the sway bar, undo the two 17s in the bottom of the strut and loosen the 12s at the top of the strut. Then put a lever under the chassis over the castor rod and push down. That will pop the strut up off the steering arm on the LCA. You hold it in one hand and undo the loose 12s at the top, then put it on the tyre so it is out of the way but not hanging on the brake line. Pull the split pin of of the balljoint's castellated nut and take the nut off. My balljoint cracker was too small to fit this, so I held the steering arm upwards and smacked it a few times on the side with a nice solid block hammer. I held the jackhandle lever down with my knee, but I'm sure you'll find some way to do it. Hitting it on the side works better than smacking it downwards, Rob was right!

Great stuff! Soo.... now I have to build a motor that spends all day above 7000 & hauls 8000rpm... that's a big ask! I wonder who built them in the 1970s?

I know- That's why I figured I'd start with the rear axle and mount them inside the car. Hopefully my Mkll roof vent will keep the inside clean. The ones like a yoyo could be fitted to the front turrets and mounted inside the engine bay with a hole through the turret to a attachment on the strut. As the strut goes up and down the wire goes in and out of the yoyo and gets measured.

Ah- back to 9/11... Well, the Govt will unquestionably know about the next one, seeing Obama's minions have been busted collecting ALL the the data on the web. So he deflects the outrage by saying "We're only spying on foreigners, not on Americans" and instantly the Germans & the Brits are upset... Gotta love politics! We could clean it out by going back to ealier days of voting- Only those who were NOT sucking on money stolen from the productive were able to vote. So if you were in the Parish dole queue you didn't have a say on how the productive people who were making the money to keep you alive were going to do things. So, no votes for beneficiaries, for prisoners, for polticians, for bureaucrats or anyone employed by the Govt, no votes for company heads who have only Govt contracts... It would cut the voters down to those in private industry and remove today's bias of "I want to live on someone else's pocket" There are a lot of options to today's mess.