altezzaclub

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/52168-at-the-wreckers-in-orange-jun-2011/ 5th photo down... Probably still there.

If it has a thermostat, make sure it is closed when cold and opens in hot water at whatever temp it is marked with. Maybe it is jammed open. If the problem is still there, take off the radiator cap before you start it one day and put a thermometer in the top. Idle it without the cap for 5minutes and check the thermometer against the gauge. It might actually be warming up but the sensor is broken.

I just feel sorry for the guy with the min­t. green Ke50 I just feel sorry for the guy with the min­t green Ke50

Just testing... I wondered how you did it.

Just clean the oil away with "brakleen" or some solvent, and sandpaper off any rust under each connection. Now, I didn't realise the motor "coughed" when you tried to start it. That is usually from ignition timing being too advanced, which also makes it hard to turn over on the starter motor. Another cause could be worn valves & seats so the valves aren't sealing perfectly, but if I were you I'd check the ignition timing first. Of course a tappet gap of almost nothing will cause backfire problems too, but I think they reset your tappets in that service they just did. So clean the connections and check the ignition timing and see if they make a difference.

Well, once you've undone what he did its not bad. A bit of careful rust work and a quick spray and it will look superb. I sat around a dinner table with a guy that runs a few tyre shops, and he told stories of guys running stretch that had the bead pop back off the rim and go instantly flat or had the bead separate from the tyre. Trying to fit them in a way they were never designed for...

Did they say what they did to make it stop jerking? The starter carbon brushes would be the obvious culprit, so if you renewed them and cleaned the copper of the armature it might just be weak windings. If they get over-worked their resistance changed and they lose power. The solenoid is more of a go or no-go situation as far as I know, and the only thing left is the ring-gear/starter gear meshing. That is also a go or not-go problem usually. How about earthing? Check the earth from motor to chassis and chassis to battery, one connection might be dirty. I assume you've checked the battery positive. Our R31 Pintara always turns over slowly on the starter, but always starts.

The Lebs being serious about car skills.. a closed track instead of the motorway traffic. Looks better than most European hillclimbs I've seen, he's got some great car control.

Castor makes the steering heavy as far as I know. 3deg of camber is easy to drive with, I don't know how much you can put on with the cambertops. We get quite a bit of ours from the LCAs. We're not quite max castor on the rods and a touch of toe-in. Something you will enjoy playing with I'm sure!

Is the flatfront mudguard stamped at an angle like this to match the bumper?? My slanty bumper looks like that and the guard indent also slopes forward as it goes down.

I do hope it had a tappet gap on #3.... Something not sitting square in the tappet? It might be that little burr. #2 wasn't affected so its not between cylinders, so not warped. It wasn't from the cylinder to the oil drains or the water jackets, so there's not much else apart from broken rings or a valve/seat. Pop the valves on #3 and take a look.

Lol! Should be in big bold letter right across the top of the "Engine Conversions" forum! Teething problems man, they will get sorted out over the next few months. I'm with him! I reckon the three-chamber mufflers are the best quietening with the biggest flow.

If you can, I'd put a light on as well, as unless you watch the temp gauge all the time you might miss it going over 100deg and only see it when it drops back to low after the water has all gone... When there is no water on the sender unit it shows as a low temperature, just before the motor cooks itself. I'm hoping the new dash in the rally car will include nice bright lights for low oil pressure and high water temp, something the driver can't miss in daylight. Electric fans are on the list there too.

Knock up one of these... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/43929-ke15-5k-turbo/page__p__458658__hl__%2Bturbo+%2B4k__fromsearch__1#entry458658 Similar but more compact. I love the inlet manifold mod!

I don't know, Gav its something that would take a lot of testing. It surprises me when people fit a backwards-facing scoop to get air from the high-pressure area in front of the screen. To me that means you must have the bonnet sealed to a plate under the trumpets or air will flow OUT that scoop from the radiator. Its the sort of thing that sports car racers love, building a one-off special that they can spend years and years tinkering around with. The whole cold-air box on The Girl's KE70 could do with more refinement when I have a few months free, it can always be improved. Certainly that leaned the rear carb from air pressure building up in the back of the airbox. You could extend your sex toy and semi-seal it around the air cleaner... Besides you wouldn't want to cut into that lovely bonnet! Any bright ideas from the handling book??

An air velocity &/or a pressure probe would be interesting.. The carb inlets need still air really, so exposed trumpets must suffer according to which way the wind blows, what speed, when they get pressurised or have the air sucking them backwards... It would look stunning tho'.

If the timing is too retarded it will run hot... also running lean makes it hot, or poor cooling system. Gav is right....

I go for someone doing suspension/working on race cars or modified cars, rather than a big franchise like Jax. Often they are just one or two guys who know more than how to put the computer screen "in the green area". Hopefully someone will know a race garage in Melb.

Well, if the problem has been there since you fitted the carb, it will be the place to look. Check for inlet leaks by spraying an aerosol all over the gasket where the carb joins the manifol and the manifold joins the head, do it with the motor running. If that doesn't change anything have it dyno tested so they can measure the fuel mixture while under load and see if the carb jets are making it rich or lean. Then you know where to start to modify the carb. Any idea what the carb was off?? One other thing to look at, when you change the points and plugs, have you changed the condensor or coil?? Either could cause the problem.

Try here- a few Jag wreckers around. It would be a tough job to do, but certainly unique http://www.prestige-spares.com.au/Wreckers/PRE68/wrepre68.html

If you've finished doing the cam/head jobs/exhaust then the guy Trev mentoned would be good. Also go electronic ignition if you ever plan to. Get the breathing mods done then last of all get the best ignition curve it will handle.

and, like jasonke20, check the venturi sizes in the throats to see if the 4K flows more air than the 3K. Lol- the ultimate solution!

Can you read the maximum advance it goes to at the moment?? You will have to make some extra marks on the pulley with 'whiteout' or 'liquid paper' or simlar, as it should go out to 35degrees or so. It should hit the maximum before 3000rpm, it will be interesting to see if you are losing any power w/o the vac. The idea of it was to advance the timing at low-throttle cruise when the mixture is so weak it doesn't burn well, then drop the timing back to normal for acceleration. Having the dizzy professionally sorted for over a hundred bucks would be best, but you could have a crack yourself. I learnt a lot when I re-did mine.

Some carbs have the size stamped on them, so you can see the number when you look down the throat. The chokes (also called "venturi" becasue that's the effect they have) can sometimes be pulled out by themselves to measure the diameter of the hole, or sometimes are part of a larger fitting. You just pull the carb to bits. You can measure the chokes one way or the other, or you can find out what the Nikki came off and Google that specs of that carb. If the hole is too big it will not give enough air velocity at low revs to pull fuel in properly, and if it is too small the low revs are great but it won't rev so high. (it gets 'choked') If nothing else, you need to spend a couple of hours on the net learning how carbs work and what parts of a carb is important. There is some great stuff around. You should be able to confirm that your carb will work for your motor, and which part of the rev range it will be good or bad at. My inch & 1/4 SUs are smaller than most guys use, and I know they are good at low revs but no good at 6500rpm. They were lean on my motor (designed for a smaller one) when I got them and I had to modify them to get them right. You might have to do the same. If you have had the carb on for 6months and it ran fine, then the problem is probably elsewhere, but if you've just fitted it then it is most likely the trouble. You can see that you have to know plenty about how a car works just to explain to us when is wrong and what the car is doing.

Check the points gap and timing too. As the points age they wear so the gap gets smaller and that retards the ignition timing, which makes it idle slower. Make sure the gap is correct then check timing. A dwell meter is more accurate than feeler gauges, if you have one.