altezzaclub

Philbey does a panhard help on that, or will the traction bars be enough?

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/57115-ke55-rear-end-options/page__st__15 Do what oh-what-a-nissan-feeling! did- or move them inwards and raise them up to the axle.

Actually you'll have to test 4 options of course! No sway bars- should grip Front sway only- should understeer Rear sway only- should oversteer Both sways on- should slide Should be fun!

Can't be hard- Although I'd make a pair to go beside the springs rather than underneath and not lose the road height. That would mean welding a foot onto the diff on each side. and while you're there you might as well make a panhard rod!! Just search anti-tramp bars in google images.

More research needed. Can you get some measurements on each of the types? Coronas are shorter than Sigmas, and they bolt straight into the KE70 to give zero camber, (well, minus 1/4deg) and the KE55 are the same as the Corona Sigmas are pretty extreme.

Ok, I have Steve doing this on the rally car this month. Basically you need to write down what you want in the car, including spotlight wiring and navigator's light, and a couple of LED interior lights .. plus maybe one in the boot and two under the bonnet in case you are stuck in the middle of the night somewhere. Then decide which wires are live as soon as you turn on the kill switch, and which wires are only live when you turn the key on. Assign fuses according to what the maximum load will be, as the manufacturers do. You can stick with their system and add an extra fuse per pair of spotlights if you like. Then pull the wiring out of the car and identify which wire is which. Do it one loomb at a time, you probably won't have much to worry about towards the rear of the car. Cut out the wires you DON'T want, add the ones you decided you needed as extras, and put it back in the car. Throw out the fusible links and fit fuses off the kill switch. One for the 'start' button, one for the headlights/brakelights (permanently powered) and one for the rest of the car ('On' only when key is on) You'll have some extras if you're using electric fuel pumps and injectors with ECU and sensors. Easy enough to incorporate. Then throw away the exess 10kg of wire, most of the dashboard and stacks of switches and lights you don't need.. OK, the pictures are too small when saved on the server, so if you want them you'll have to PM me. They go from 1Mb to 80Kb

We cut a leaf from a spare spring set and mounted it upside down on Rob's KE55 khana car. It was clamped onto the leaf pack at the front and extended behind the axle slightly to get clamped by the U-bolts. Taking the bottom (stiffest) leaf out gave room for it. Sadly things changed and we never got to use the car enough after that to really make sure what difference it made. We'll get back into it in a year or two...

Don't forget to do a compression test before you start it. I have had bent valves that gave no visible evidence of being bent and there were no marks on the pistons, I had to roll them across a desk to see the stem wobble, they stood up straight and looked OK except the seating area was worn on one side. The car ran, but didn't want to start. All valves were the same, two cyl had about 100psi and two had 30psi, but you're only losing one cyinder.

This is what happens when you let Govt and their parasites interfere with the free market! http://www.cato.org/blog/raisin-farmers-have-constitutional-rights-too Basically they said that the Hornes couldn't challenge the Govt's taking of their production until they had paid the fines and cleared the charges arising from them not handing their goods over to the Govt. So even if the Govt use a quite illegal method to say you owe them money, you are not allowed to challenge that in court until you have paid what they want! ..and if you want to see rank stupidity in Govt Depts, the Orange City Council has agreed to pay a foreign-owned company about a million dollars of ratepayers money to stop them closing down! So some smart mobster from Electrolux goes to the Council and threatens them with closing the plant and firing the 550 workers if the Council don't hand over the cash. The Council caves in, not realising that there is NEVER an end to this sort of crime, the criminal always comes back for more once you give in... a page straight out of the Book of Holden and Ford! Meanwhile my rates will go up to hand the cash over to a private company who will take the money back to Sweden! Eventually they will bleed the Council dry THEN fire the workers, so we might as well do that right now! It is so morally wrong I can't believe these clowns do it!!

I think only slapper bars are illegal as they are not fixed to the chassis. http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-770501.jpg

Are we talking KE70 here?? They shouldn't axle-tramp at all really. The leaf spring rear ends are where it happens, and even a 4K on dirt will tramp all over the place if you can't control the spring winding up.

ouch! Is the final bid taking a grinder to one end and cutting the head right off the bolt, then smacking it out with a drift & a six-pound hammer?

I'd be very surprised if it is the gearbox. Is it automatic or manual? So it misfires under load. The higher gears (3rd instead of 2nd and 4th instead of 3rd) make the engine work harder. Everything like the coil and the plugs and the fuel feed in the carb has to work harder, and something is breaking down. It sounds electrical still from that problem, but you've changed everything except the coil. Try another coil before you leave on your trip and check for broken wires on the coil/distributor. That is very odd. Certainly it suggests something electrical. It could still be in the ignition circuit itself, but I can't see why it would break down under load. The wire from the key to the ballast, or the ballast to the coil, or coil to dizzy. Does the red 'charge' light come on when it breaks down before the motor is stopped??

OK, lets go over it- You've put in new- plugs, points, condensor, leads, dizzy cap, but not coil. You've had the Nikki carb on for a few years and had the problem that long too. It has the window so you know the petrol is at the right level when you look.. You had a top overhaul recently, so I expect they checked tappet gaps and set plug gap and points gap and timing. That stopped the jerking problem for a few days. Did they take the head off, do you know? It starts slowly and coughs, and sometimes runs the battery flat. It jerks and dies if you accelerate up to 60kph. So..... If you haven't changed the coil then get another and try it, either a new one or swap with another car that works OK, just to see. If the other coil doesn't solve the problem of jerking then lets look at the carb. Go driving and when it jerks turn the motor off immediately and coast to a stop. Check the petrol level in the carb window. We want to make sure it is not low when it jerks but OK when it idles. Watch down the carb as you open the throttle quickly and see that a jet of petrol gets squirted down the throat by the accelerator pump. Check how the second throttle opens, either a vacuum diaphram or a mechanical linkage. Maybe the first half of the carb is working, (slow speed) but the other throat (more power) isn't opening. See if there are numbers on the throats telling you how big they are. If it looks like the throttles are working OK, then you will have to pull the carb to pieces and check the jets and drillings to make sure one is not blocked. That is when you note the numbers on the jets so you can see if it is a carb designed for an 1800cc and your motor is too small to make it work properly. It may be too lean at 60kph to accelerate, but if you sneak up to speed slowly it is OK.

What vehicles were released in Aussie with 5Ks?? Where should we be looking for them?

If it has always been like that then I can imagine servicing it might not fix it. However if that problem has arisen since you've owned it then the reservice missed something. The first thing I'd suspect would be the float level. If it lets the petrol get too high in the bowl it will just pour into the motor. Are all the vacuum lines connected correctly? If someone has plugged them then you'd need to know what each one did and was it affecting fuel usage. I'm sure the carb ran better than that when it came out of the factory, so you should be able to get it back to original. Don't forget a change to another carb will bring a stack of new problems as that carb will have been designed for its own set of vacuum lines on another motor.

Ok, you've probably found the whole problem for it jerking. Get new high-tension leads for the coil and the 4 spark plugs, and a new distributor cap. Those are the only wires that carry more then 12volts, so the other wires in the car don't lose electricity very easily. 10degrees is correct for timing, so that was no problem. A- I use the biggest wire I can find for the earth from the motor back to the chassis, & same for chassis to battery. If you can find a battery positive + cable off another car that has the right terminals, use that. The other wires around the car vary according to what load they take, the headlights need bigger wires than indicators or horn or the dashboard wires. B-Here's the wiring diagram. The wires used when you turn on the ignition are marked in green, the wires used when you turn the key to 'start' are marked in red..

Brilliant fun! I usd to love organising and doing them! Put four or five pet-food tins out with tea candles in, give the navigator a little water pistol and time the cars on how long it takes to drive around in a cicle shootng the candles out. Put a styrene cup of water on the scuttle just in front of the windscreen and time how long it takes to go around two cones in a figure-8 without splilling any. Man, there were dozens of little tests we did in the middle of treasure hunts.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/52168-at-the-wreckers-in-orange-jun-2011/ 5th photo down... Probably still there.

If it has a thermostat, make sure it is closed when cold and opens in hot water at whatever temp it is marked with. Maybe it is jammed open. If the problem is still there, take off the radiator cap before you start it one day and put a thermometer in the top. Idle it without the cap for 5minutes and check the thermometer against the gauge. It might actually be warming up but the sensor is broken.

I just feel sorry for the guy with the min­t. green Ke50 I just feel sorry for the guy with the min­t green Ke50

Just testing... I wondered how you did it.

Just clean the oil away with "brakleen" or some solvent, and sandpaper off any rust under each connection. Now, I didn't realise the motor "coughed" when you tried to start it. That is usually from ignition timing being too advanced, which also makes it hard to turn over on the starter motor. Another cause could be worn valves & seats so the valves aren't sealing perfectly, but if I were you I'd check the ignition timing first. Of course a tappet gap of almost nothing will cause backfire problems too, but I think they reset your tappets in that service they just did. So clean the connections and check the ignition timing and see if they make a difference.

Well, once you've undone what he did its not bad. A bit of careful rust work and a quick spray and it will look superb. I sat around a dinner table with a guy that runs a few tyre shops, and he told stories of guys running stretch that had the bead pop back off the rim and go instantly flat or had the bead separate from the tyre. Trying to fit them in a way they were never designed for...

Did they say what they did to make it stop jerking? The starter carbon brushes would be the obvious culprit, so if you renewed them and cleaned the copper of the armature it might just be weak windings. If they get over-worked their resistance changed and they lose power. The solenoid is more of a go or no-go situation as far as I know, and the only thing left is the ring-gear/starter gear meshing. That is also a go or not-go problem usually. How about earthing? Check the earth from motor to chassis and chassis to battery, one connection might be dirty. I assume you've checked the battery positive. Our R31 Pintara always turns over slowly on the starter, but always starts.