altezzaclub

Is the windscreen leaking there?? or the vent system?? If you can get in there with a welder then welding plate over it is better than f'glass, but if you can't get at it then f'glass is better than nothing. It grips well to rust holes and rough steel.

Yep. Actually, wire brush time more than grinder. ...and then put fibreglass over it if you want to add some strength back in.

Androino! Control an Arduino from your Android device using a ...sadly followed by 45 comments from people who can or can't get it to work correctly.. I think I'll investigate our local TAFE for any keen young man who wants to get involved with rallycars.

That sounds terribly simple! Swipe Steve's phone and mount it with the Arduino boards on the bottom of the drench container under the roof vent! Argh! Trying to read Arduino and Google pages this late at night does my head in!

My Gregory's manual says CR is 9.0 to 1 I thought it was 9.4, but it seems that is the 4KE figure. It probably varies between countries too. I didn't give the piston a volume, being a flat top, but in reality I'm sure there is a small volume there as it is not completely flat and doesn't necessarily come up dead level to the block top. Then again, making cheap mass-produced cars with castings for combustion chambers probably has errors of several cc between cylinders, never mind between motors. Your 33cc works out fine for a CR of 9.0 Isn't it 8.98?

OK, the new ones are fitted and its all running. The webcam this morning showed no glow from the steel pipes so they must be getting the heat away. I'll get some video if we take the Rolla up to Armidale this weekend. More here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__105

That's what I was planning.. Probably a resolution of 256 woud be fine for most of the sensors, this is rallying after all! They've got amazing stuff in the Ebay shop- I wish I knew as much about electronics as I do about cars! Do you think a raspberry pi would do it? I was keen when I read about them being a tiny $25 computer, but I see they're $80 in Aussie. So much to learn!

Some tyres tramline worse that others, and the offset makes a big difference. We ran zero-offset on the rally car and it was so bad on tarmac!

Well done! Could you run the coil on the cambelt cover at the front? or does it take so long for the heat to kill the ignitor it won't matter? Find a stainless steel microwave at the dump and grab the casing. It is so polished it makes a great heat reflector and weighs nothing as a heat shield over the extractors. Good luck for the weekend!

Just what I thought the moment I saw it! A better rear bumper and an 18RG motor... You might own this for decades!

Done! New headers, holes drilled, 18mm nuts bought & welded on, and we have them fitted with the oxy sensors. Final job was to take the resonator down to the exhaust shop and have them cut 'n weld the end 50mm on, as it had rubbed thin when it rode on the overlap on the extractors. So then I was back to where I should've been two weeks before! I pulled the LCAs out and fitted new LCA ball joints, and the 'how to do it' is here- http://www.rollaclub...lca-balljoints/ I saw a couple of other jobs that need doing under there too, but this week I want to just run it and check it before Uni holidays start and The Girl wants it. I expect to be up in Armidale to give it to her and I'll stay on at Walcha building the rally car. With a bit of luck I'll have the webcam on my ancient laptop and can watch the extractors under the bonnet!

With the nuts lubed stuff goes back together. First up is the LCA in place, although remember to leave the inner bush bolt loose while the LCA is hanging down. That only gets tightened when the car's weight has it at the correct angle. Once the LCA is in place the new nut goes on the steering arm & balljoint. When that is tight the split-pin goes through and gets snipped off to size. The strut goes back up on its 12mm nuts, just loosely, and the lever pushes the LCA down to get the strut on top of that steering arm. Use a 14mm spanner to tilt the arm flat. It won't quite line up perfectly on my arms, it sits on this angle. Putting the jack under the LCA and giving it 4 or 5 pumps closes it up so the bolts can go straight in. I then lifted the LCA until the stand under the car creaked, so it was more or less at road angle, and tightened the LCA inner bush bolt. With all the bolts back in and tight, it left the worst job.. greasing it! I greased the new balljoint, and being empty it takes a lot out of the grease gun. I tried the steering balljoint with the broken rubber but it wouldn't take any, so I ended up using a screwdriver to smear grease into the split rubber. One day both sides will get replaced. On the other side I put a blanking plug in the grease nipple hole as they can get wiped off by a rock. I keep a couple of good grease nipples in the shed. This side can take its chances... So, car down on its wheels, collect tools and check everything is tightened, and hopefully the clonk clonk going along the farm road to the Woolshed Rallying HQ has vanished!

I spread the grease around the hole in the LCA and put the new one in. Now you need a bit of pipe or a large socket that just fits on the outer lip of the new balljoint. You face the LCA upside down on the stand you used before, put the balljoint through the hole (make sure the rubber cover goes through cleanly) and carefully smack it downwards with your smaller pipe. I used a large socket.. I put the LCA on my thigh while I held the socket and the hammer, so it was sitting evenly on the stand. . This time I gave it 3 whacks or so and checked it was going in straight, gave it a few more, checked it again... It does slide all the way in to allow you fit the C-clip. Take it easy with this, using the two screwdrivers you need to get one end in place and slide the other end down over a screwdriver blade so it doesn't cut your new rubber boot. It all works OK with a bit of care. Now we're ready to re-assemble. I wiped a bit of grease out of the old balljoint and put it in the castor rod mount, and on all the bolts I took out. I never took the nut off the castor rod any further than that shown, that is plenty to allow it to move around. By not touching the back nut I kept the wheel alignment castor correct. The steel crush tube in there runs in the steel chassis mount, so a bit of grease in there helps. Use rubber grease if you're really fussy.

Now you can undo the castor rod and the inner LCA bolt and you should have an LCA in your hand. You should check it over for damage... sigh.. the inner rubber of the bush is OK, but its certainly not 100%! There is a C-clip on the balljoint, just as in the kit you bought, and that needs digging out of its groove. Ideally you have flat-faced C-clip removal pliers (yeah right!) but two screwdrivers do the job. You're throwing it all out so don't worry! At this stage you need a press or a special balljoint removal G-clamp. ...or you take the LCAs and balljoints down to a workshop with a press.. or you do what I did- You'll need to ask your technical supervisor for a hollow tube that you can just drop your new balljoint down. Luckily my much-abused axle stand had the right internal diameter. So it was just a case of holding the bit of LCA around the balljoint horizontally on the rim (up higher than shown) and smacking it with that little block hammer. It takes some whacking, but don't be shy, just stand the bolt up straight and hit it .. You should end up with this...

Read this right through so you know you have the tools to do it before you start! Bits of pipe, grease gun, a solid hammer....! This is a straightforward job, well technically straightforward and simpler than changing a distributor, but it does need some mechanical hammer work! A side takes about 1-1.5hrs without hurrying. I did one a day, no rush. First, buy two to these. Mine were for my Corona LCAs, I don't know if the KE70 etc are identical, but this part number fits Corona, Celica, & KE Corollas in theory. Get organised- I have a floodlight, several square of carpet to sit on, and I keep the tool box nearby. I get out the tool I want, use it, then put it aside in a pile. At the end of the job I have all the tools I used in that pile, and as I put them away I clean them and think “did I do UP whatever I UNDID” with each one... Jack the car up, take a wheel off, spend 5minutes inspecting everything you can see. I haven't done anything on The Girl's KE70 for ages except run up thousands of Km on it and fit the Celica diff, so I found a few things to put on the list. First up is to remove the strut. I loosened the front nut of the castor rod right off, which makes the castor rod easier to get off the LCA as the rod has studs in the top, not bolts. So, undo the 22mm on the front of the castor rod, take off the lower nut on the sway bar, undo the two 17s in the bottom of the strut and loosen the 12s at the top of the strut. Then put a lever under the chassis over the castor rod and push down. That will pop the strut up off the steering arm on the LCA. You hold it in one hand and undo the loose 12s at the top, then put it on the tyre so it is out of the way but not hanging on the brake line. Pull the split pin of of the balljoint's castellated nut and take the nut off. My balljoint cracker was too small to fit this, so I held the steering arm upwards and smacked it a few times on the side with a nice solid block hammer. I held the jackhandle lever down with my knee, but I'm sure you'll find some way to do it. Hitting it on the side works better than smacking it downwards, Rob was right!

Great stuff! Soo.... now I have to build a motor that spends all day above 7000 & hauls 8000rpm... that's a big ask! I wonder who built them in the 1970s?

I know- That's why I figured I'd start with the rear axle and mount them inside the car. Hopefully my Mkll roof vent will keep the inside clean. The ones like a yoyo could be fitted to the front turrets and mounted inside the engine bay with a hole through the turret to a attachment on the strut. As the strut goes up and down the wire goes in and out of the yoyo and gets measured.

Ah- back to 9/11... Well, the Govt will unquestionably know about the next one, seeing Obama's minions have been busted collecting ALL the the data on the web. So he deflects the outrage by saying "We're only spying on foreigners, not on Americans" and instantly the Germans & the Brits are upset... Gotta love politics! We could clean it out by going back to ealier days of voting- Only those who were NOT sucking on money stolen from the productive were able to vote. So if you were in the Parish dole queue you didn't have a say on how the productive people who were making the money to keep you alive were going to do things. So, no votes for beneficiaries, for prisoners, for polticians, for bureaucrats or anyone employed by the Govt, no votes for company heads who have only Govt contracts... It would cut the voters down to those in private industry and remove today's bias of "I want to live on someone else's pocket" There are a lot of options to today's mess.

lol- I had to google Godwins Law.... Speaking of debate killers, I see it is now illegal to deny the atrocities by the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia, making the current Govt just as dictatorial as their predecessors and extending the Jewish/Nazi holocaust arguments. When will they learn that you cannot legislate people's beliefs! ...you need a cage full of rats on someone's face to do that!

$14 for a Sharp infra-red proximity sensor, so a pair of those on the cage above the back axle facing down. Drill a couple of holes in the floor and clamp a bit of #8 wire to the diff, one on each side, up through the holes and put an aluminium foil piedish on each wire. As the wires go up and down with the diff, the sensors record how far away they are. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/242 Probably run them under the front mudguards if we can find somewhere safe for them, so they can measure off the front tyre or we'll fit a reflector to the strut. One Arduino board can handle those 4, then another board for G-meter, brake pedal, steering and throttle... and the wife's new camcorder for in-car video.. Ah, sounds so easy!! You're right, its not plug & play unless you put up several thousand bucks!

Its a dodgy area for me, I'm not a leaf spring man- I was thinking if it was too long it would push the diff backwards 10mm and downwards, but you would have noticed when you fitted it and it would do terrible things to the gearbox housing. It would still go up and down for a short while before it smashed something. I had to force the two-piece driveshaft into the KE70 with the Celcia diff fitted to get measurements and that was very noticeable. We cut 8mm of the shaft to get it right.

I've heard quite a few people argue that the walls will be too thin, but I haven't heard from anyone who has done it and had the walls collapse. I HAVE heard of and from people who have done it successfully, and its on the list for whenever I need to rebore the 4K. Then again, I want the 1500cc torque rather than the ultimate high compression race engine, so mine won't get thrashed as much as some. The sonic testing costs about $100 and they measure the wall thicknesses up and down the bore, so you can offset the rebore a mm here or there to get an even wall thickness. ""my flat mate had a 4k bored out 2 1486cc using 1600 mazda turbo pistons, 5k head gasket, valve grind, and f13 cam. went prity good in a road car. not 2 sure what was dun 2 the head in regards 2 compretion ratio but i no its about 9.8;1 "" http://www.club-k.co...d.php?tid=14162 ""previous owner took the 64k 4K engine out of his Starlet, bored it out to 5K, put in new pistons, and used it for about 10K, then he ditched it for a 4AGE. "" http://www.club-k.co...d.php?tid=15972 ------------------------------------------------- ""my bro bored a 4k out to 5k (80.5) so it can be done. BUT you need the right block its a commercial block with siameze bores""""i had a 4k that was bored out to a 5k, completlely balanced, shot peened rods, 11.5:1 compression, lightened flywheel, ported head, 304 deg cam and a 32/36 webber as well as 2 1/2inc exhaust and extractors. it made 56 rwkw's and it revved to 8 (as far i felt safe to rev it)"" joeschmo_57 http://www.rollaclub...4k/page__st__30 Engine specs: Twin solex carbs double valve springs ported head extractors Bored out to fit 5k pistons Deburred block knife edged crank electronic ignition http://www.ae86drivi...rens-KE70-wagon ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ""na didnt have any block problems at all just had to use a 5k headgasket with it. thats all a 5k is, a bored out 4k really.... no problems and u really notice the extra torque. compared to a stock 4k it putts along quite nicely and my mate refered to mine as " it goes like a 4age "" --------------------------------- The 9000rpm 4AGE head 4K- ""Block Sonic tested Bores repositioned and overbored by 6mm"" ----------------------------------- Couple of Club-K have worked http://www.club-k.co...d.php?tid=22491

Yep, you buy shock oil, thinnish oil with very stable viscosity over a wide temperature range. The foot valve should be on the end of the tube that the shaft runs in and have thin circular shims held on with a nut or something, The oil goes through the holes and forces the shim up slightly to get past. There are shims on both sides of the footvalve as oil goes both ways, depending on the shock going up or down. The valve body usually looks like this- Small holes go one way, big square holes the other. Did you lube the bush with soapy water or rubber grease?? I can see it would crush and expand rather than go in, but I don't know how they do it. I assume they push it down a tube the right diameter, a few mm larger than the LCA hole.

You haven't had the swinging mount at the back reverse and jam forward? Maybe the springs have hung down at full droop, where they never usually go, and locked up between the leaves with the weight back on. Very odd, try jacking it back up and spraying between the leaves with WD40 or CRC556 or whatever. Unless the tube is too long and the driveshaft is jammed into the back of the gearbox!

....aannd... Are we running a sweepstake on how much of our hard-earned cash Juliar will give to the car manufacturers to ONCE AGAIN bail them out?? They're not stupid, an election year and a weak Govt has got to be worth $50mil, which still won't stop them from closing the doors later. Govts should have nothing to do with businesses, it just cost the taxpayers money! If businesses can't compete they should go broke and let someone else use that freed-up capital to do something successful. Prolonging the death agonies of these dinosaurs just delays progress into whatever comes next, and progress is what we need.