altezzaclub

because the 5th gear is outside the gearbox in the tailshaft housing, and the idler gear shaft has to be longer to go through the rear wall and carry it. They are different in the belhousing front plate that carries the thrust bearing too, now I think about it. Just swap them, as Reed said-

Get the top one in Luke's link, that's what I've got. $10 well spent... Google up on altys until you understand how they work (pretty simple) and work out which wire is which on yours. Then disconnect the wires from the alty and turn the key on. Check each wire with the multimeter to earth and see if the excitor is live.

See if it has 12V being fed in when you turn the key on. If it has then its probably internal... brushes or diodes, both replaceable.

Any way to richen it Creedy? Hit it with an "Engine-start" aerosol first??

To make it all very clear.. The motor noise it makes is quite normal, but you want the motor to start faster?? ...and it is probably your choke problem that makes it hard to start on a cold morning.

They'd turn up.. You could have them in a handle so they're easy to use and with various bits of metal you could start lots of cars...

There should be more wires on the auto than on the manual car, so some you join into the manual box (reverse lights) and some you join one original wire to another original wire (the "start only in park" lockout) Take a look at what I did here, although there are a few variants around- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58879-how-to-convert-an-auto-to-a-manual-ke70/page__pid__590801#entry590801

which will be just as sloppy... Mine is too, its part of the character of the car my daughter likes so much! Is it left to right sloppy when in gear, or back and forth sloppy?? If you've had the carpet & boot off you will have seen what you can fix, and everything else needs the box pulled apart.

Ah- this will give you enjoyment for years and years! Change the valves in the front struts to make the nose come up faster and weld the diff teeth!!

As the clutch plate wears the pressure plate pushes out further backwards at the release bearing, so it pushes the release bearng back, the cable gets loose and the clutch 'takes' higher on the pedal. With a new clutch plate the pressure plate sits much flatter and the release bearing has further to go before it acts, so the clutch pedal takes lower down. Over time things wear and I've fitted a spacer in at the top of the cable to take up the difference.

I'm aimng on cutting each 30kg down to 20 if I can, a plastic window and a length of exhaust pipe welded in under the top of the door. The cage now does the side intrusion bar job at the lower level. They are heavy mothers!

Its never interested me, but I did sit around a dinner table with a guy who owns a few tyre stores and he reckons they pop off the rim too easily, any pothole or hollow in the middle of a corner. He won't fit them from a liability viewpoint. I don't know how wide is too wide. Go for the rally paintjob!

At a guess, I'd say..... nope! Front wheel drives and 4WD have completely different hubs and RWD cars nowdays have wishbones under the struts. The early 1980s were the last of the MacPherson struts. Take a pair of KE70 struts and weld a larger tube onto them if that is what you're after..

Corona RT132/XT130 here in Aussie, not sure about your part of the world. Also Celicas, the RA40/28/23 series. ..and I expect, the TE72 Series Corolla 2-doors. That's a nice-looking Corolla!

So... what does a door weigh Seb??

Road trip!! :D

Is this still how it happens?? So it is fine when started cold (on full choke) stalls as it warms up (on part choke) then fine once it is warmed up... It certanly sounds like the choke is coming off too fast, its not richening it for quite long enough. Next time it stalls leap out and check the choke,see if it is completely off or partly off. Did you have success with turning the choke bi-metallic mechanism?? That will determine how long the choke stays on for. The choke throttle screw determines how high the idle is while its on choke.

Just make one... They will be around, but you'll probably need a parts place who supply garages with their bits, like my local Mid-State Spares, rather than Repco or Supa-Cheap. I could walk in there with a sample and go out the back to look through all the stuff they carry to find one. Rub the top housing on some wet 'n dry sandpaper on a flat surface, and do the same to the housing on the motor where the gasket sits. They should both come up with a flat clean shiny surface. If the top bit looks shitty, buy another one, they corrode away over time and never seal very well.

+1 for MechanicalSympathy... It is at the biggest end of engine swaps and $10k goes nowhere unless you're a mechanical engineer with a vast knowledge of how to modify cars.

Nice work! They make a great motorsport car all round.

lol- what happened to "measure twice, cut once!" That's a pretty damm serious tank! Nice to be able to fab up stuff like that.

Two ways of doing it- Cylinders one and four move up and down together, and cyls two and three do also, but 180deg away from 1& 4. They fire in the order 1.3.4.2. A)- Turn the motor over with a spanner on the crank pulley and watch the rockers on number four. As the inlet opens and the exhaust closes you can get the valves equally open, and you will see the timing mark come up to zero. Then number 4 is on exhaust stroke and number one is on compression. Set number one, 10thou inlet, 12thou exhaust cold. Next cylinder to fire is three, so watch cyl 2 rockers as you turn the crank and when they both are equally open, set number three. Then watch cyl one, you'll get the timing mark again, and set four, and finally watch cyl three and when they both are equal set cyl two. Most people do it like that. The option is the 'Rule of Nine'... B)- When one rocker is right down, the rocker that adds up to nine can be set, so you just number the rockers 1 to 8 as you see them on the motor. They pick 'right down' because the valve is only at max opening for a short time, so you can easily see that. So just turn the engine and watch a rocker, say number one, on cylinder one. When it is right down, set number 8, look for another , say number 3, and when it is at max open set number 6.. You just work your way around the engine until you have done them all. Sadly, some never shut up! The valve wears a groove in the end of the rocker, and your feeler gauges bridge that groove, so the gap is a few thou larger than you measure. The follower can get a groove where it runs on the cam and that clicks every time too. With a race/rally motor we set the cam to the degree when it should open on a dial gauge and close the tappet up on that.

20minutes to swap the locker for the stocker at the trackside... or even swap it at home before you drive to the drift track. Did you pay much for it? It seems like just the car to avoid when you bought it, but its turning out nice now.

Usually it is understeer in and oversteer out, and you will be busy on the wheel all the time unless you're on a smooth stock-car circuit! The REAL ideal is a sharp turn-in and a constant, predicable slight 4-wheel drift as you power on, buts that one of those rare corners where you think "Faaark ! I'm good!" More castor gives more self-centering. Go for the max! You'll have to adjust toe afterwards. Do that before trying bars back on, but I expect you to need a front bar to give it understeer, allowing the rear more of the grip. The castor will give you self-centering and sharper turn-in, but once the wheel is almost straight it won't have an effect, leaving you with the tail hanging out. The front swaybar will make the nose slide more mid-corner, you'll have to see if that counteracts the tail hanging out or not. You only have so much grip available, all you can do is split it between front and rear, left and right. A good start would be to to soften the rear suspension to get more weight transfer rearward and hence more rear grip when you accelerate. Plan 'C' involves putting toe-in on the rear axle with an industrial press!! Battery in the boot?? Steve drives like this all the time! That's why I'm hoping a front sway will increase his speed without ruining how the car feels. Rally tyres will make a big difference, so when you have the car how you like it, borrow some rally tyres and go for a blast to see what they do. You might need a different setup with them, and the sooner you find out the better, rather than as you head off down Stage One.

This guy bought a new windscreen- http://www.cardomain.com/ride/617756/1975-toyota-corolla/page-3/