altezzaclub

Easy to fix! But first we need to know the exact symptoms, as Reed said. You walk out in the morning and put the key in, then turn it.. what happens in the next 1 minute?? Does it crank every time you turn the key?? Choke in or out?? Cranks over easily?? Fires up readily?? Then runs good or bad?? Have you done the basic tuning?? Tappets set, points set, timing set, plug gap set, carb idle and mixture set???? What does it do?? Just make a click and not turn over?? Turn over but not fire? Does nothing at all when you turn the key, not even click? Let us know, these are simple cars and easy to sort.

A quick update- The 60series stay on the back and I'll have a think about tyres later. The wrecker will have a half-worn pair for the front so all 4 run out together and can get replaced. There is a 4.1 Celica banjo diff head in the garage that needs reassembling with a new seal, so I can run 70series tyres with that OK. The complicating factor is the companion for The Girl's KE70 that I bought yesterday- The Golden Girl is an auto, so I have a 4.3 in there.. The 14X6 mags can go on there with tall tyres, and the factory mags can go on The Girl's car with small tyres... Arrgh.. better start a new build thread and plan what happens to each one- 5K pistons, quad carbs, 4AGE motors, different cams, diffs, tyres, shocks... Another lovely car, in similar condition to The Girl's KE70, both 1983 but one's a CS and one's an XX. So now I have one of my own!

Ha! NSW roads will make short work of that! Our potholes are deep enough to beach the body as well as smash the rims! Somehow I don't think the A80 Supra looked so outlandish in the 1990s, although I suppose the production verson of this will be more conventional.

Why not just jack it up on the chassis and see if the springs are tight when the wheels are hanging?? If they can be turned by hand at full droop I'd say you have trouble.

Nice engineering- that inlet manifold is a work of art! I'm dying to see how it goes and what you do to tune the carbs.

We find that filling the teeth with weld is a better handling solution than welding the teeth together. Fill a tooth gap with weld, turn the spider gears until a tooth hits that weld then fill the opposite one too, so you are smacking into two welds at once. This gives you some 'open diff' action in each direction, maybe 1/3 of a wheel turn, which allows the nose to start turning in and eliminates the constant understeer that welded diffs give. You might not be able to do this with the diff in its housing, we took it out. You can break it doing doughnuts on and off the tarmac on the same night your uncle welded it up for you, but the second one has lasted a dozen rallies without breaking.

Keep the brake proportioning valve until you try it all. You may not need it with the bigger front brakes, but you won't know until you try it.

What diameter is your TE27 m'cyl, and what diam is the AE86's?? I've found the Toyota cylinders to be fairly interchangeable, and the two parameters you are playing with are both related to diameter- a larger diameter gives a higher pedal but a harder brake pedal. A smaller diameter cylinder will have the pedal going down further but will give you more leverage. The larger rear cyls on the Celcai diff in my KE70 has the pedal going down further, about 40mm down to hard braking but its still 100mm off the floor.. The '86 diameter will give you an idea of what the factory needed to work those size calipers, but you might need to be 1/16" inch smaller to get some leverage without a booster.

You're probably right- check and see if there is a grubscrew and lucknut holding them in place. I think there is one holding the choke tube in place, but I can't remember what locks the venturi in. Try to wiggle them to see if they're loose. Webers run OK without ram tubes but I don't know if a stub tube is needed to hold the venturi in that case..

Use a multimeter or a test light to see if the coil +ve goes to earth somewhere. It should earth via the -ve wire to the dizzy and then through the points when they're closed, but it is designed to do that. It shouldn't earth at all when the points are open so turn the motor until their open and try hooking the wires up. It sounds like you've got a short to earth with no resistance.

Sure- there are quite few things that can cause a miss at idle, because the motor is not under load. The cam chain whips back and forth instead of being tight on one side because the valve springs are alternately pulling and pushing on the rockers as the cam lobes go past, and that causes the valve timing and the ignition timing to dance about. As well as that, the compressing of one cylinder will slow the crank, and make the "pull" side of the chain loose, then that cyl fires and the chain snaps tight. That changes the idle speed in revs per second, not maybe showing in rpm, but those fluctuations will send pulses up the inlet system and play around with air velocity going through the carb. The air has no inertia at 800rpm compared to 5000, so it is going down a port, then stopping dead, then moving down again. Any of this could make a spark too advanced to fire so it tries to run the motor backwards, or too retarded so it doesn't burn, or have a lean pulse through the carb... Just listen to any hot cam at idle, compared to when it is under load. My twin SUs are very grumpy at idle, with an occasionaly miss just as I load the motor as I let the clutch out too quick without enough revs. I reckon its just the relationship between two carbs and a cam, but it is beautifully smooth when driving.. Anyway, once you get the ignition running cleanly from 10dg to 35 or so, you can then really see if the carb has a problm.

You can measure the valve timing with a circular protrator on the crank pulley. You can buy big round protractors, or just print one off the web and stick it on a sheet of something firm like aluminium or perspex. Take off the tappet cover & take the plugs out. Set up the protrator at TDC, and rotate the motor until say, #1 exhaust opens. That will be when the tappet gap vanishes and you can't wiggle the rocker. Keep slowly turning the motor with a spanner or pushing the car in 4th gear, and the inlet will open just before next TDC. Suddenly the inlet rocker can't be wiggled. After that TDC you will have the exhaust close and the rocker come loose. Somewhere on the web will be those figures for a stock cam. If you have a lot of advance it will cause a high idle, and advancing the cam with a tight chain would do that. Knock it back to 10deg and wind the idle speed screw up if you need to before you go chasing air leaks.

oops... the dizzy drive is off the cam so the ignition timing depends on the cam timing. If you touched nothing in the ignition system, and had read the advance with a timing light before you did the cam chan, then the only answer is that changing the chain changed the ignition timing. So you have pulled the cam 'forward' in relation to the crank, the valves will be opening and closing earlier and the points firing earlier. Changing the chain made quite a difference! I expect the valve timing is now at factory spec, which you could check by measuring the valve opening times, and the dizzy just gets adjusted to 10deg advance.

...and what you didn't mention is that a very stiff sway bar will break the KE70's puny mounts right off the chassis... More reinforcing needed.

Nah- 180 is just very good compression on a 4K. That motor must be rebuilt. Make sure the clutch cable is fixed at the bottom where it goes in through the hole at the bellhousing, it should have a circlip down there. Then just space the top. I usually just pull the outer cable forwards and get an idea of how much freeplay there is, then find some circular bit of plastic or something to use as a spacer to that distance. Make a hole that fits the outer cable through and a slot as wide as the inner cable and put it on to space the top circlip out.

You can set it without the timing light to check everything, it won't be running. Take off the dizzy cap and turn the ignition on. Rotate the motor with a spanner on the crank pulley until #1 is at TDC and note where the rotor points to. It should be around #1 lead, or maybe quite a bit before that in your case. Turn the crank back to about 20deg before TDC then approach TDC and note the points rubbing block moving around the dizzy cam. Set the crank pulley on about 10deg before TDC, then turn the dizzy so the points are just opening. Wth the ignition on they should give a spark. Do it a couple of times until you have the points just opening, then tighten the dizzy. Put the cap back on and fire the motor up. (don't forget about the spanner on the crank pulley!) If it won't idle, increase the idle speed until it does. Then see if it drives OK. After that you can put the timing light on and fine-tune it to whatever timing advance you'd like. Rev it to 3000rpm with the light and see what the max advance is. That really needs painting more white marks on the pulley out to 40deg before TDC, as the max should be 36. They will run with more advance, but I don't know if they have any more power or whether the spark tries to push the piston back down at 45deg BTDC. You can generate a spark advance curve if you have a tacho, as I did here in the electronic dizzy work I did a while back. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45

Here, try this- I've got more if that won't do, but they are bodywork and trouble-shooting mainly. ALTEZZA SXE1# From 05-2001 to 07-2005 3S-GE Engine EWD 6749405.pdf

Over on Altezzaclub of course! I'll look it up and get back with a link...

I think one will be idle when the choke is on, but I gave my stock carb away years ago.... So one idle speed screw should screw onto a choke quadrant, and gives you idle when the choke is on. The other idle screw will push on the body and give you idle when warm. With the car warmed up, set the idle when you want it, say 700rpm. Screw the mixture in and out in half-turn lots until you get the fastest idle speed. Then re-adjust the idle with the idle speed screw. Then you can play with the mixture in 1/4 turns to get it how you want it. If you screw the mixture right in then take it out one & 1/2 turns that will be a good starting point.

Nice- everything looks good there. The foot is always bathed in oil so hard rubber or plastic will work. I hadn't thought about the tilt on the motor, maybe if it was upright the crank key would be vertical, as you say.

What fuel did it ping on?? 91 or 95?? Did you check what the max advance went out too?? I'd think they would take 10deg or 15 even, without a problem, maybe it is advancing too fast or too much with something broken in the bottom of the dizzy. neighbours do get funny like that...

Well well, things you learn! Now do the rest of it- set the tappets, check the timing and tune the carb... You might be surprised all over again! I reckon they're a fun car to drive.

Usually the water vapour that leaks into a cylinder as the motor cools gets onto the spark plug and it doesn't fire very well in the morning. Once its up and running it starts fine for the rest of the day, until it cools down overnight again.

Coolant seemed to be leaking from the cap of the overflow bottle Coolant seems to be getting into the oil - milky residue on oil cap, oil level is higher than before on dip stick and seems less viscous (still brown though) Those two certainly suggest a head gasket or a crack. Does it start OK when cold?? We hooked a screw-in compression gauge extension onto a compressor's air-line and pumped each cyl up to 100psi then watched for it dropping, but if you haven't got the air compressor get a garage to do a leak-down test like that.

Well its odd, and I've never really looked when I've had one apart, but go for the dots and the TDC, not the keyway. Ideally you woud find crank TDC and cam TDC and just fit the chain to that as best as possible.