altezzaclub

That'd damm good power! What is the compression ratio? ..and the air/fuel ratios? I assume he had it jetted correctly. Wade list that cam as 295deg, which to me is a large duration, so it should haul at the top end with the Weber. The only thing I can think of is what your mechanic said, the extra air volume is going in at decreased velocity and not filling the cylinders efficiently. It will be interesting to see if the smaller chokes give more power. Do DCOE make more power.. probably not, but they look sexy and sound great, so everyone uses them! Richard here is using a 40DCOE with 33mm chokes on his 4K, but he's got no comparison except for the stock Aisan.

..and look carefully for other damage caused at the same time when someone drifted it into a kerb....

Well, bro 'n I went to Bathurst for the V8Supercars, then I ran him up to Coolangatta. The 60series tyres were on the back going up, but we went to Armidale via the flat inland road with a tailwind, so the trip up was 1000km at 6.8L/100. It was a little squirmy in the rear, but I wasn't sure if it was lack of grip or bump steer from more sticky tyres, certainly I expected the 60series to be better than the 70series. We swapped the wheels to big ones on the back and small ones on the front up there, and I went back to Armidale to fetch The Girl from Uni. This was a climb up through the twisties from sea level to a few thousand feet, and then we had a headwind back to Orange. The big tyres on the back dropped the revs, but turned in 7.7L/100km, all on United 95octane. The worst thing was the tyres! The 60series have worse grip than the 70's, so Maxxis are just not as good as cheap Falkens. The increase in understeer was quite noticeable. Still, they'll do while I decide what diff to use, 13" or 14" rims, which tyres to buy.

Auto box in gear?? or in neutral? The charge light suggests the alternator is not charging so the battery will run flat. You might fix that first. However the handbrake shouldn't affect the idle at all.

Points start off with two nice flat round surfaces, and slowly one side gets eaten away and the other side gets metal spark-deposited on it. The rubbing block also wears away so the gap gets smaller, which retards the spark timing. If the points have a volcano on one side and a hollow on the other, buy new ones and get a condensor at the same time. Fit them carefully and set them to 0.45mm gap. Put a touch of grease on the rotating cam so it lubes the rubbing block. Set the timing to 8-10deg, although they will take more than that. Once the ignition is fine, tackle the carb. Changing the timing will change the idle speed, so that might need a re-set before playing with the mixture.

They would if CO2 was important Only crazies own old Rollas Hey! -its the Socialists that are pushing global warming, us crazies are all Capitalists.

Bah! ABC! "Now that global warming is causing these fires in the Blue Mountains, what are you going to do to stop it Mr O'farrell..." Always spouting the official globalist propaganda as fact. Reed, I'd rather talk to your crazy conspiracy lady!

Interesting... Can you get the extra flow without the pressure going up? If you pump at a high enough pressure you can take the white metal off the bearings, not that I've ever seen that happen. Would you drill out some oilways to get more oil up to the cam or head?? All you might do is pump more oil out the pressure relief valve. Chat to Phil there, he had a 4K doing 9000rpm!

White or body colour or ANY DAMM COLOUR EXCEPT BLACK! So hard to do work in a black engine bay, especially in reduced light such as on the roadside in the evening!

Check the points gap, and if you change it you will have to reset the ignition timing again. Then use the idle speed screw to get it idling at what speed is comfortable, and finally screw the mixture in and out a 1/4 turn at a time to get it running smoothly at the maximum idle speed. You might have to reduce the idle speed on the idle screw again.

Have you got a wiring diagram Brad? There are some up on here, and that will show you what joins to what.

Not quite so bad in a KE70, but there is no room in the KE30/55. Richard has one on his KE30 and the socks are jammed up against the strut turret. The sideie will outperform the downdraught if you are really keen on performance, but in everyday driving I expect the d/d will be more economical. I can get the jet sizes he is using for you, although Insanity on here will know. Note- these guys don't pay for their own fuel.......

One of t\he big stores still makes rubber bushes as well as polyurethane if you don't want them too hard. I can't remember which it was, came up while I was searching the same as you.

...or maybe a thermostat, maybe a water pump, maybe a radiator flush, maybe a cleanout even.... When was the 5K last running and how was it then? ..and how was the radiator with your last engine? What fan is on it at the moment?

Spark plugs will not be the problem. Spark timing needs the correct points gap to start with. Then it is either with a timing light with the motor running to set it at 10deg at idle, so let the revs die and watch the timing mark around 1000rpm. ..or, take off the dizzy cap, turn the motor so the crank pulley timing mark is at 10deg, turn the ignition on (not to 'start', just to ignition lights) and loosen the dizzy locking bolt. Turn the dizzy a few degrees one way then the other until you see a spark jump as the points open. Maybe repeat it until you have it just as the spark jumps, then do up the locking bolt and put the cap back on. Now your timing is 10deg. If the timing is retarded, (less than 10deg ) it will make the idle slower. How is the fuel level in the window?

The petrol should be half-way up the little window. If it is above that, then ajust the needle & seat where petrol comes in to lower the level. Otherwise it runs rich and chokes the motor, so it dies on idle.

We took ours off to paint. The gutter trim rolls off starting underneath at one end and working it off by rolling it around upwards to the gutter side. Its easy to damage and not that keen to stick back on properly as taking it off stretches the metal slightly and it is just clamped on. The screen is held on by plastic clips, which we prised up and off. I think they're a keyhole so the trim slides up and then lifts off, but it was a while ago now to remember. You can stick that back on with a bit of silicon. The door chrome lifts straight up, also prone to bend if you're unlucky. You can mask over them if you're painting the same colour, a careful masking job is not noticeable.

Ah, a fun country with an impossible language! That explains it!

Nasty! I'm amazed you can register a car like that, Sweden always seems so safe and over-governed. It must be fun to drive!

I'm using a narrow-band, I'm used to it and it makes sense to me. Until I see a wide-band working I don't know what the difference is. It covers from 14.7 down to 11 and up to 20, and once it is warmed up after a minute or two it is quite stable. I think the changes are faster in the narrow-band, so it flicks from 14 to 18, then sits there on constant throttle. When you touch the throttle next it changes very fast again. The damage to the cat sound like mechanical damage, not chemical contamination, if it rattles. The alcohol fuel should be fine in it, I haven't heard of it affecting other cars. As everyone knows, if it was me I'd be down at the wrecker buying the biggest, cheapest cat there...

That looks very sweet! Amazingly rust-free for an island!

If they look the same they are the same. The banjo diffs are made of stamped steel plates welded together, the Borgies are cast. The borgies have the access plate bolted on the back, as you saw, while the banjos have the complete removeable diff unit that bolts onto the housing from the front. The ratios I would expect to be different, but I don't know. The auto 4K uses a 4.3, the manual 4K uses a 4.1, so with the extra power of the 4A they should have lowered the ratio from whatever the 4K wagon uses.. Use the T50 tailshaft, the rear ends will be the same, the fronts different and the lengths might be different. If you repeat whatever you did to bust the AE71 diff, the other will break just as quickly.....

Busted!! I know nothing about it and HE is meant to be studying flat-out for finals exams!

Is the fuel level full to the top of the window or hallf-way up?

haha! well done! One for free is good, but two for free is superb! So, I assume the yellow one will become metalflake blue... You have two different diff ratios now too, you can run the auto 4.3 instead if the manual's 4.1 for more acceleration, or if you run larger 14 or15" tyres..