altezzaclub

Here- These guys have diagrams of everything on your car. You can see some of the joints I was referring to here, although you have an L-shaped LCA rather than the KE70 straight one. Take a look through the steering and suspension pictures. Jack up one wheel and see if you can make the noise turning the steering wheel back and forth. If not, try the other wheel. Bounce on the guards lightly and jam a big screwdriver in the joints and lever them around... The moment you can make the noise another person can lie under the car and find it for you. Good luck

Take a look at what is involved in the suspension & steering, then Google images for similar ones. Look for swiveling joints and moving parts. On a KE70 there is the steering rack, which has a bush at one end. The rack an bush wears out. The rack is connected to the steering arms by 'rack ends', spherical bushes that wear out. The other end of each rack end goes to the balljoint on the steering arms under the strut, and those balljoints wear out. The steering arm is connected to the lower control arm (LCA) by a spherical joint, and they wear out, and finally the strut itself rides up and down on a bush around the shock shaft, that wears out and the shaft gets bent. All the above cause clunks when riding over bumps...

I had a funny feelng that was what you meant, but I couldn't see why anyone would replace the housing and not just the filter. The attachment is a one-way valve, part of the anti-pollution gear I think, but I can't remember what it does. I'm pretty sure if it leaks it affects the idle straight away, but this was 40years ago on Datsuns. I took all the non-essential hoses off the KE70 and blocked the tubes when I bought it, then I fitted SU carbs. Someone on here will know....

Arrgh! Must be the hot weather! I hate it when all my cars break at once!

..and if either Celica had a sway it should fit, I think they are identical widths as I have the RA60 diff with an RA40 sway in a KE70. Tempting isn't it... Maybe the answer has been in front of us all along. Like a Ford Escort RS2000.

hmm.. this is air filter- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Blueprint-Air-Filters-Toyota-COROLLA-E7-1-3-KE70-79-85-/261295124113 It has no attachments, so I'm wondering which part you replaced?

It has no grunt and and will forever be a little 1300cc... so it will rev happily if modified, cruise at 100kph no problem, not use much fuel, be fun to drive, but I reckon it will never be a drifter unless you have it on 135x13 crossply tyres! Its just a another engine- do a compression test, watch for water leaks, head gasket water usage, how much oil it uses and that will give you an idea of how good it is compared to brand new. Fit a decent carb, get a cam cut, extractors and exhaust and get the flywheel lightened and balanced. If its pretty worn out bore it to 1500cc with 5K pistons. Otherwise, throw it out and fit the famous 4AGE or a 3SGE. You could turbo or s'charge it. The points problem is probably a bad condensor, grab one when you're getting the meter. Maybe its the coil, but I'd do condensor first, if the points are worn grab them too.

Nice idea! Can you just trim the plastic of the Celica surround to fit?

Nope- you have to learn what each component does and how to wire it up... Trace the ignition power from the key through the ballast, the coil and the distributor and let us know what you find. Pull each wire off and measure the voltage with a multimeter. Start with the points, is there power there, and work backwards

Air comes out of the other pipe when the PCV is shut. The PCV just pulls out of the rocker cover. It has to be vertical to work so look up as you cover your mouth with oil! You can blow one way but not suck the other if you suck quickly. You actually suck the piston down onto its seal against a light spring, same as the inlet manifold does. If you can suck and blow easily it is broken. However I would expect it to give the motor a massive air leak if it was busted, so I reckon it is OK.

What Dave was after, is what 'blown' means. Unless a motor has dropped a valve and smashed a piston, even a really really worn one will idle. If fixing the gasket doesn't help it idle, then the carb is suspect, and I expect that will be the case- blocked idle jet or drilling or similar. This is assuming you've set the plugs and points and timing??? As the points wear they close up, retarding the timing and lowering the idle until it won't get up and go and won't idle.

Damm, they're good! Sounds like someone skimmed the head... Maybe the blowby is from that. The smoke from the exhaust as you drive away after idling at traffc lighs is from valve seals, if it stops when driving. The oil gets sucked down the inlet valve guides under high vacuum at idle but not at low vacuum when driving. The smoke that comes from the exhaust when you drive away from traffic lights and doesn't stop is from rings, either oil rings or compression. Worn oil rings let oil up into the combustion chamber and put smoke down the exhaust, even if compression rings are good and blowby is low. Worn compression rings let compression gases down past the pistons and the PCV system sucks them into the inlet manifold, so they get burned and out the exhaust too. So if its coming out the breather its compression rings, and if you pull the breather pipes off and it still smokes when you drive it then its oil rings. Worn oil rings make a car more smoky than worn compression rings. Think of the advantages.. You can do all the strip and assembly yourself, they are simple motors. While it is out you can have the flywheel lightened and the crank balanced, and if it needs a rebore you take it out to 1500cc and use 5K pistons. If it just needs a hone and rings there might be money left over for a cam grind...

You're right- As the other guys said, the PCV sucks the fumes that get past the rings out of the motor. However the PCV only works at partial inlet manifold vacuum, such as overtaking, and at idle the valve gets sucked closed. When the PCV is working, the vent tube passes clean air from the filter into the motor. When the PCV is shut the vent tube passes fumes from the motor into the air filter. That is where the oil is coming from, and it is a sign of worn compression rings. How worn?? Well, when you're finding adding oil to the motor is getting too expensive, they're too worn. Until then, its not a problem, just ignore the oil in the folter box.

LoL, the lengths drivers go to for weight saving! We took an Abra file to the Datsun hinges, a hacksaw blade that cuts in any direction. We left an outline of the hinge and the boltholes! I've seen drivers cut the spanners in the toolkit shorter to save weight.

First find out where the tractor noise is coming from- manifold to head gasket or manifold to exhaust pipe gasket. You could always use a length of plastic tube stuck in one ear, it will pinpoint a lot of noises. Make sure you get a one-piece gasket when you do what Dave said. Also, check the manifold faces are flat so they clamp the gasket tight, and clean out all the bolt holes in the head. Don't forget to grease the threads as you assemble it, dry threads will reduce the clamping pressure. Like this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/27374-one-piece-manifold-gasket-who-makes-them-4k/

Sure, but they all do... Exactly how much is too much, that's the big question. My motor has probably done 170,000km, definately under 200k, and I'm happy with it using 1/2 a dipstick of oil per tank, which is my normal run from here to Tamworth at a good 100kph cruise. You would need to hone the bores for new rings, and you wouldn't want the grinding paste getting on the crank, and if you pull the crank out you might as well lift the empty block out and do it easily on a bench.... That's how small jobs become big jobs! Now, smoke from the breather is from worn compression rings, so the answer is to do a compression test. Once you have figures, squirt a shot of light oil down each plug hole and repeat the compression test. The oil helps the rings seal and if the compression goes way up you can assume the compression rings are leaking. If the oil doesn't help your misreable 120psi compressions, you can assume the valves are leaking. If you have over 130psi don't worry about it, keep adding oil when you gas up....

Maybe... I thought it cut the idle jet feed line so no fuel could be pulled in by the manifold vacuum and allow the motor to 'diesel-on'. Cetainly the SUs will boil sometimes after a run, makes the garage smell of fuel, and there is no solenoid on them. Tyler, do the whole tuneup as soon as you get time. There is probably more than one problem and once you've set everything to factory spec you will get maximum power out of it. It could be the electrics (points/timing) or carb that is making it hard to start, and checking the points is easy and quick. If the tappets have closed up they will be holding the valves open and reducing the compression, making it hard to start. On the car I've just bought the exhaust valve gaps were fine but the inlet valve gaps were half what they should have been. So half an hour spent with feeler gauges there would be time well spent. Then check the points gap and plug gaps with the feeler guages, reset the timing and you've done everything except set the carb screws. If the points have a mountain on one side and a crater on the other, replace them and the condenser. Once the metal slag builds up you can't get a good measurement of the gap.

Well said, and now that I've googled it I'll have to head out that way on my trips to Kingaroy. The road looks great! Ausse would truly be a wasteland without the Great Dividing Range!

Easy to fix! But first we need to know the exact symptoms, as Reed said. You walk out in the morning and put the key in, then turn it.. what happens in the next 1 minute?? Does it crank every time you turn the key?? Choke in or out?? Cranks over easily?? Fires up readily?? Then runs good or bad?? Have you done the basic tuning?? Tappets set, points set, timing set, plug gap set, carb idle and mixture set???? What does it do?? Just make a click and not turn over?? Turn over but not fire? Does nothing at all when you turn the key, not even click? Let us know, these are simple cars and easy to sort.

A quick update- The 60series stay on the back and I'll have a think about tyres later. The wrecker will have a half-worn pair for the front so all 4 run out together and can get replaced. There is a 4.1 Celica banjo diff head in the garage that needs reassembling with a new seal, so I can run 70series tyres with that OK. The complicating factor is the companion for The Girl's KE70 that I bought yesterday- The Golden Girl is an auto, so I have a 4.3 in there.. The 14X6 mags can go on there with tall tyres, and the factory mags can go on The Girl's car with small tyres... Arrgh.. better start a new build thread and plan what happens to each one- 5K pistons, quad carbs, 4AGE motors, different cams, diffs, tyres, shocks... Another lovely car, in similar condition to The Girl's KE70, both 1983 but one's a CS and one's an XX. So now I have one of my own!

Ha! NSW roads will make short work of that! Our potholes are deep enough to beach the body as well as smash the rims! Somehow I don't think the A80 Supra looked so outlandish in the 1990s, although I suppose the production verson of this will be more conventional.

Why not just jack it up on the chassis and see if the springs are tight when the wheels are hanging?? If they can be turned by hand at full droop I'd say you have trouble.

Nice engineering- that inlet manifold is a work of art! I'm dying to see how it goes and what you do to tune the carbs.

We find that filling the teeth with weld is a better handling solution than welding the teeth together. Fill a tooth gap with weld, turn the spider gears until a tooth hits that weld then fill the opposite one too, so you are smacking into two welds at once. This gives you some 'open diff' action in each direction, maybe 1/3 of a wheel turn, which allows the nose to start turning in and eliminates the constant understeer that welded diffs give. You might not be able to do this with the diff in its housing, we took it out. You can break it doing doughnuts on and off the tarmac on the same night your uncle welded it up for you, but the second one has lasted a dozen rallies without breaking.

Keep the brake proportioning valve until you try it all. You may not need it with the bigger front brakes, but you won't know until you try it.