altezzaclub

The idle circuit actually runs the motor up to 1500-200rpm before it hands over to the main jet completely, so it could be the idle is blocked a bit or too small. Strip the carb and hose out all the drillings with a syringe full of petrol. An air leak would do it too. That stock carb should run it at low revs much better than it can at high revs. I'm using a 270deg cam with twin carbs and extractors, and it idles lumpy like yours, but pulls clean as soon as I touch the throttle.

True! I'd love to build a fully modernised one with a 4AGE, but the list always starts with 'crash-proof roll cage...' I don't think a KE70 would even equal a Chinese Chery in the ANCAP crash tests!

If they both have a CR of 9:1, (Wiki figures) then the compression drop will be the percentage difference in capacity. 1166cc to 1290cc is about 10%, so your compression with the 4K head will be 8 to one plus a bit, pretty useless. The volume in my 4K head was about 31ml, and the combustion chamber area 30sqcm. You will have to reduce the chamber volume 3ml at least, so with the area of 30sqcm that means a skim of 3cubic cm/30sq cm or 1/10cm, or 1mm. So skimming the head by 50thou will take you back to stock compression. Then you'd think, "well, an extra pass with the mill will give better compression, so take off 75thou...." That would give you around 9.3-9.5:1 ..and you would have to look at your rocker ratio because now the pushrods are effectively 1.5mm longer and the rocker ends might run off the valve stem. So- measure the volumes of your 3K and your 4K heads and work out exactly what compression ratios you have now and will have with the 4K, then how much to skim off. If you've never done it before, research it until you understand what's going on or PM me. Good luck!

Yeah, R/B is common power in. I hate the idea of powering the bulbs and earthing through the dipswitch, that's why they are so pathetically dim! If you have the time Possum, convert them to relays like the build topic, or even better shell out the $50 for a commercial headlight relay.

It has a COM wire that takes power to the bulbs and feeds both filaments, and each filament is earthed out through the dipswitch separately. Some info in the build thread here- http://www.rollaclub...the-girls-ke70/

The nice thing is that the car came back with nothing needing to be done on it before the Nabiac Sprint next weekend. That it NEEDS to finish with no work needed as the first rally is the following weekend straight afterwards in Bago.

The actual rallysprint went well, we were seeded halfway up the field and that's where we finished. The first 7 places were all Evos & WRX's with a Nissan 240RS in there too.- Then an Escort followed by an Alfa A Datsun 240K...!! and a 1200. A sprinter Then an Escort, a BMW and Steve was 15th That's Rob's KE behind us, awaiting scrutiny, which of course was a trying time for both us and the scrutineers! The other cars were immaculate! They generally look like they've been fully restored and never put on a gravel road. We did come in front of a brace of Datsun 1600s, a Galant, a Skyline, an RX3, a TR7 V8 and a lot of other nice machinery. The boys looked good in parts... Try this- http://s170.photobuc...Sprint.mp4.html ...aaand NOW I see how Photobucket degrades the quality compared to the video on my desktop!

Back home in Orange.. A week and a half here then back up to the farm for the next rallysprint. There weree other distractions up there too, we renewed the two dozen giant discs on the plough, along with bearings and spacers as needed, but when Pete tried it a wheel bearing packed up. Steve and I were going down to Tamworth for exhaust parts, so we chased bearings as well. It worked superbly once it was sorted, but I never thought to take photos of a happy farmer in his tractor... With the drought destroying the grass, feeding out hay became the norm too. The Mothership was back to its usual job- Those kittens we put the ginger one with are now running around the back stoop. Plenty of photos of cuteness This one soon leant about catching paper on a string and killing it! Lots of tiny growls! ..and it dragged the string away from the others.. My Precious! Mine!!

Well, they're not making any more new parts, they're only getting fewer and it wouldn't pay to run out....

I'm not a boost fan, but one thing is obvious- Its better to use a motor designed for turboing from stock than try to add a turbo to an NA motor. I'm sure it can be made to work, but there are a lot of little jobs to be done that have already been sorted by the factory engineers in a stock turbo'd engine.

Take off the dizzy cap and watch the points as you turn the motor up to TDC on number one cyl. They should open just before the TDC mark hits 5deg on the timing chain cover. To set it, turn the crank to get the pulley timing mark on 10deg before TDC, have the cap and rotor out, turn on the key and turn the dizzy until the points just open. They will spark and you should hear the coil crack. Turn it a few times until you're happy that they have exactly just opened, and reassemble it all. That should be good enough to get a light on later. If it knocks when driving you can turn the dizzy a tad retarded, but I run 10deg advance on 95octane no problem.

Leave the jack under the gearbox to support it and just pull the motor. If you want to move the car, just wire the bellhousing up to the firewall somewhere. If you pull both, drain the box first, or fit a spare tailshaft nose in the back of the box.

errr, well, living on a steep hill y'know....

Well, Richo's 4K is awaiting the 5K pistons he ordered, the 18RG Steve and I pulled down is awaiting 0.1g scales from Hong Kong for balancing, and the rally season starts in two days! So, this week up to the Woolshed. We cut the wheel well out of the boot to get the exhaust higher up and put a panel in the floor under the spare wheel mount. The fat arse on The Big Girl had always annoyed me, it was made worse by the constant pounding of stones pushing it out. With a brilliant stroke of genius we grabbed a rear bumper off one of the KE70 collection outside and hit it with a grinder. We cut the plastic away to get it tucked closer to the body, and chopped the steel frame out to lighten it. We had to make a couple of steel wedges to keep it vertical and just bolted it on with two 6mm bolts, to hell with mounts. The cars are the same width! Chopping off the the bottom of the rear panel got rid of the stone target and it will be quite un-noticeable. We discovered a bit of 2.5" chrome tailpipe, probably off Steve's dad's RX3 from the 1980s, so that went on too. We had to replace some of the pipe that had been crushed by the diff, and swung it over to the driver's side. With the exhaust tucked up I found the fuel line ran too close, so we had the outlet of our little surge tank swapped over to the other side today, and some old fuel line was re-routed away from the exhaust to the pump. The last job was to fit a brake cooling duct to one side at the front to hopefully stop the Terratrip dropping out mid-stage. It did it once in the Tumult rally, but came right over lunchtime before the next stage, so we figure it over-heated. We'll run the non-cooled side normally, and if that sensor crashes we can switch to the cooled side to see if it helps. More photos tomorrow!

That sounds odd. Maybe you haven't pulled the cable tight to get the idle position somewhere, hard to say without seeing it. Got some photos?

Get an auto, they're much harder for P-platers to thrash than Mum's old manual...'' I like the KE70s for the 5-link, everything else has Roman cart axles. The little coupes look nice but suffer axle-tramp and hopping and bump-steer and.... Also, cars that have spent their lives inland fare better in the rust stakes than those at the coast. Chase the ones from inland towns.

Is it only when idling cold? That's when the motor shakes most. Take a screwdriver when its happening and press on any metal sheets around the motor, heat shields and such-like. Is it that sort of thin-sheet ringing?

How much money do you ahve for it? $10,000?? How experienced are you in mechanics? Can you strip and rebuild a motor? Can you modify a motor with twin carbs and suspension? The first problem is money, the second problem is doing brakes/suspension and getting it engineered.. that's where your $10,000 will go! Start off with modifying your own motor, bore the 4K out to 5K pistons and do the usual cam, carbs etc. That will keep you going for a couple of years while you assemble everything for dropping in a T motor, or a 3SG or a 4AG. A good option would be to buy someone else's partly done conversion, you can muck around with it for 6months before changing your mind and selling it on to someone else again! read this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/

That will make a nice car! Are you running the stock Altezza ECU and flywheel/clutch? The dual-mass flywheel is twice the weight of the TRD or Excedy replacement, and I know Altezzas are slow to rev up and down. My KE70 is quicker and crisper to add or lose rpm.

Its the best you can do- You'd need to have a good idea of bhp per buck to sort out the fine things.. Do you get a vernier cam drive wheel so you can dial the cam in where you want it? Do you spend money on the crankshaft getting it lightened before balancing. Do you see if a larger oil pump from an RA40 Celcia can be made to fit? Rocker gear machined to make up for the cam grind and head skim? Do you go chasing Fiat valves to get them 1mm larger in diameter? Filfredrick has already built the ultimate K motor- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/51097-4k-twin-cam/ I think if I were you I'd grab another 4K to drive around with and use as a test bed while working up the various systems. Maybe get the short block completed and swap it in to use for 6months while you build the top end. A motor like this can't be done in a month.

Ah- pretty serious rebuild then. 5K would be a good start if you're going to buy a motor, but if there are none around you could bore the 4K to 5K pistons. Read the Wiki here- http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor Pretty straight-forward stuff, what you build depends on what bits you can buy. I'm running SUs, but the next one will be bike quad carbs or maybe a single DCOE Weber. Make sure you lighten the flywheel and get it all balanced, then you can do your own head porting & skimming.

That's pretty weird, the motor works hard when driving but cools better from the airflow, so you don't even need a fan. Then when you stop it has to dump excess heat so the temp usually goes UP when you stop after a run. Check the water pump and check the radiator for flow. Maybe its just poor circulation so it can't stand any heat load really. How's the ignition timing? Being retarded make it run slower and hotter, but I can't see it making that much difference.

Yep- what Reed says- If it hasn't done 150,000km then its too many wheelies or driving with your left foot on the clutch pedal. Met a lady last week who's X-Trail clutch lasted 50K because she rests her foot on the pedal. You might have ripped the centre out of the plate, that happens too.

What did you blow up? What is damaged?? What condition was it in beforehand?? Are you talking a rebore, crank grind, head job, new bearing throughout, new cam chain and tensioners, new valves.. what needs to be done? What modifications would you do at the same time? Cam grind? Lighten flywheel? New carbs? Balance job? This might be the time to do everything you can while its stripped.

I'm sure it will drop staight in as well as any other 2litre 4cyl, but that is still a lot of work. The easiest would be to bore your 4K out to 1500cc with 5K pistons. Next you could use a 7K or 3Y side-cam motor that still looks like a 4K at first glance. The 7K is 1.8L long stroke toque monster, the 4Y is a 2.2L oversquare one. The Y motors are available brand new from China, they were used in the Chery or Great Wall. http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/jennypuhanpower/product-detailXBcQoTrGImkE/China-Engines-for-Toyota-4Y-.html As Dave says, the work is far greater than the cost of any motor, so you should maximise your advantage if going overhead cam and use the 4AGE. You can see how much work is involved by checking the dates on people's build threads, and the fact that there are plenty of un-started or half-done conversions for sale. I wouldn't think any motor is particularly easy, they will all need new mounts, another gearbox, so a mongrel driveshaft, a hydraulic clutch setup, new choke and throttle setups, new exhausts, new inlet setups and all those have to be custom made. Cost... I reckon a true cost would be between $5000 and $10,000, most of which will be engineering costs to get stuff made. Everyone says they did it cheaper, but most people don't keep all the receipts and often they just don't want to know! Try telling your wife you've spent $8000 on that 30yr-old car in the garage that you paid $900 for! Start with a easy one and work upwards!