altezzaclub

What diameter is your TE27 m'cyl, and what diam is the AE86's?? I've found the Toyota cylinders to be fairly interchangeable, and the two parameters you are playing with are both related to diameter- a larger diameter gives a higher pedal but a harder brake pedal. A smaller diameter cylinder will have the pedal going down further but will give you more leverage. The larger rear cyls on the Celcai diff in my KE70 has the pedal going down further, about 40mm down to hard braking but its still 100mm off the floor.. The '86 diameter will give you an idea of what the factory needed to work those size calipers, but you might need to be 1/16" inch smaller to get some leverage without a booster.

You're probably right- check and see if there is a grubscrew and lucknut holding them in place. I think there is one holding the choke tube in place, but I can't remember what locks the venturi in. Try to wiggle them to see if they're loose. Webers run OK without ram tubes but I don't know if a stub tube is needed to hold the venturi in that case..

Use a multimeter or a test light to see if the coil +ve goes to earth somewhere. It should earth via the -ve wire to the dizzy and then through the points when they're closed, but it is designed to do that. It shouldn't earth at all when the points are open so turn the motor until their open and try hooking the wires up. It sounds like you've got a short to earth with no resistance.

Sure- there are quite few things that can cause a miss at idle, because the motor is not under load. The cam chain whips back and forth instead of being tight on one side because the valve springs are alternately pulling and pushing on the rockers as the cam lobes go past, and that causes the valve timing and the ignition timing to dance about. As well as that, the compressing of one cylinder will slow the crank, and make the "pull" side of the chain loose, then that cyl fires and the chain snaps tight. That changes the idle speed in revs per second, not maybe showing in rpm, but those fluctuations will send pulses up the inlet system and play around with air velocity going through the carb. The air has no inertia at 800rpm compared to 5000, so it is going down a port, then stopping dead, then moving down again. Any of this could make a spark too advanced to fire so it tries to run the motor backwards, or too retarded so it doesn't burn, or have a lean pulse through the carb... Just listen to any hot cam at idle, compared to when it is under load. My twin SUs are very grumpy at idle, with an occasionaly miss just as I load the motor as I let the clutch out too quick without enough revs. I reckon its just the relationship between two carbs and a cam, but it is beautifully smooth when driving.. Anyway, once you get the ignition running cleanly from 10dg to 35 or so, you can then really see if the carb has a problm.

You can measure the valve timing with a circular protrator on the crank pulley. You can buy big round protractors, or just print one off the web and stick it on a sheet of something firm like aluminium or perspex. Take off the tappet cover & take the plugs out. Set up the protrator at TDC, and rotate the motor until say, #1 exhaust opens. That will be when the tappet gap vanishes and you can't wiggle the rocker. Keep slowly turning the motor with a spanner or pushing the car in 4th gear, and the inlet will open just before next TDC. Suddenly the inlet rocker can't be wiggled. After that TDC you will have the exhaust close and the rocker come loose. Somewhere on the web will be those figures for a stock cam. If you have a lot of advance it will cause a high idle, and advancing the cam with a tight chain would do that. Knock it back to 10deg and wind the idle speed screw up if you need to before you go chasing air leaks.

oops... the dizzy drive is off the cam so the ignition timing depends on the cam timing. If you touched nothing in the ignition system, and had read the advance with a timing light before you did the cam chan, then the only answer is that changing the chain changed the ignition timing. So you have pulled the cam 'forward' in relation to the crank, the valves will be opening and closing earlier and the points firing earlier. Changing the chain made quite a difference! I expect the valve timing is now at factory spec, which you could check by measuring the valve opening times, and the dizzy just gets adjusted to 10deg advance.

...and what you didn't mention is that a very stiff sway bar will break the KE70's puny mounts right off the chassis... More reinforcing needed.

Nah- 180 is just very good compression on a 4K. That motor must be rebuilt. Make sure the clutch cable is fixed at the bottom where it goes in through the hole at the bellhousing, it should have a circlip down there. Then just space the top. I usually just pull the outer cable forwards and get an idea of how much freeplay there is, then find some circular bit of plastic or something to use as a spacer to that distance. Make a hole that fits the outer cable through and a slot as wide as the inner cable and put it on to space the top circlip out.

You can set it without the timing light to check everything, it won't be running. Take off the dizzy cap and turn the ignition on. Rotate the motor with a spanner on the crank pulley until #1 is at TDC and note where the rotor points to. It should be around #1 lead, or maybe quite a bit before that in your case. Turn the crank back to about 20deg before TDC then approach TDC and note the points rubbing block moving around the dizzy cam. Set the crank pulley on about 10deg before TDC, then turn the dizzy so the points are just opening. Wth the ignition on they should give a spark. Do it a couple of times until you have the points just opening, then tighten the dizzy. Put the cap back on and fire the motor up. (don't forget about the spanner on the crank pulley!) If it won't idle, increase the idle speed until it does. Then see if it drives OK. After that you can put the timing light on and fine-tune it to whatever timing advance you'd like. Rev it to 3000rpm with the light and see what the max advance is. That really needs painting more white marks on the pulley out to 40deg before TDC, as the max should be 36. They will run with more advance, but I don't know if they have any more power or whether the spark tries to push the piston back down at 45deg BTDC. You can generate a spark advance curve if you have a tacho, as I did here in the electronic dizzy work I did a while back. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45

Here, try this- I've got more if that won't do, but they are bodywork and trouble-shooting mainly. ALTEZZA SXE1# From 05-2001 to 07-2005 3S-GE Engine EWD 6749405.pdf

Over on Altezzaclub of course! I'll look it up and get back with a link...

I think one will be idle when the choke is on, but I gave my stock carb away years ago.... So one idle speed screw should screw onto a choke quadrant, and gives you idle when the choke is on. The other idle screw will push on the body and give you idle when warm. With the car warmed up, set the idle when you want it, say 700rpm. Screw the mixture in and out in half-turn lots until you get the fastest idle speed. Then re-adjust the idle with the idle speed screw. Then you can play with the mixture in 1/4 turns to get it how you want it. If you screw the mixture right in then take it out one & 1/2 turns that will be a good starting point.

Nice- everything looks good there. The foot is always bathed in oil so hard rubber or plastic will work. I hadn't thought about the tilt on the motor, maybe if it was upright the crank key would be vertical, as you say.

What fuel did it ping on?? 91 or 95?? Did you check what the max advance went out too?? I'd think they would take 10deg or 15 even, without a problem, maybe it is advancing too fast or too much with something broken in the bottom of the dizzy. neighbours do get funny like that...

Well well, things you learn! Now do the rest of it- set the tappets, check the timing and tune the carb... You might be surprised all over again! I reckon they're a fun car to drive.

Usually the water vapour that leaks into a cylinder as the motor cools gets onto the spark plug and it doesn't fire very well in the morning. Once its up and running it starts fine for the rest of the day, until it cools down overnight again.

Coolant seemed to be leaking from the cap of the overflow bottle Coolant seems to be getting into the oil - milky residue on oil cap, oil level is higher than before on dip stick and seems less viscous (still brown though) Those two certainly suggest a head gasket or a crack. Does it start OK when cold?? We hooked a screw-in compression gauge extension onto a compressor's air-line and pumped each cyl up to 100psi then watched for it dropping, but if you haven't got the air compressor get a garage to do a leak-down test like that.

Well its odd, and I've never really looked when I've had one apart, but go for the dots and the TDC, not the keyway. Ideally you woud find crank TDC and cam TDC and just fit the chain to that as best as possible.

I've never worried about the links in the chain, the main thing is to get the two gear wheels into alignment. You will get TDC on number 1 cyl from the crank key, no matter where the timing mark is, and the mark on the cam wheel will do to make the straight red line in your photo. The rockers on #4 cyl should be about equal as they go past one another, exhaust closing and inlet opening. You can only be a tooth out either way, which is a noticeable amount (about 10deg I'd say) in either the marks on the gears or in the tappets. Turn it all by hand afterwards to make sure the rockers look like they should as they open and close at the right times. If you were keen you'd redrill the cam gear wheel with three new holes a few degrees out from each other so you have a cam timing wheel adjustable in 3deg increments. --------------------- I would think so too. Maybe you could check the other cyls and mark the TDC of #2 and #3 as well.

Dayammm! That's the best one I've heard of in years! The problems change as it moves a bit an you can't see what is wrong...

Its just disgusting stuff to work with- I thought welding and grinding and painting was messy and grubby until we got in fibreglass panels. We made guards, bonnets and boots for the Datsuns years ago.

Ths can't be a problem of fuel starvation when hot?? The pump gets airlocks and can't supply enough. Is it worth pulling the top off the carb and seeing the fuel level next time it happens?? Just switch it off immediately, push the clutch down and coast to a halt so it can't idle. Pull the fuel line off the outside before undoing the carb top so no more fuel can get in as you lift the float. Then compare that level to when its idling. What is it like around town on a hot day?? The only times I remember the Datsuns giving trouble was after a hard run when you idled around town and the fuel would boil, leading to vapour-locks as the pump couldn't pump vapour.

I haven't heard of a range being available, so I assume they are all the same. That would work if all coils are pretty much the same, which is what I reckon they are. So if you have a new condensor in there and it is not a dud, then it won't be that. The Gregorys manual says- ""Using a spring scale pull the timing chain outwards at a point opposite the tensioner pad with a tension of 10kg. Measure the clearance between the rear of the pad and the body. If the clearance between the tensioner pad and the tensioner body exceeds 13.5mm, closely inspect the sprockets for wear. Renew if necessary. Anchor one end of the chain on a nail and using a spring scale apply 5kg to the chain. Measure the doubled over length between anchor points and if this exceeds 272.7mm the chain must be renewed. Measure the thickness of the tensioner pad. If 12mm or less renew the timing chain tensioner as an assembly. Similarly measure the vibration damper and if less than 7mm it should be renewed. Dismantle and inspect the tensioner. Check the spring for lack of tension and the oil holes for blockage."" For the capacitor they specify 0.2-0.24mfd.

Messy, spiky and sharp, poisonous chemicals, poisonous vapours, impossible to clean up afterwards or get off your skin, poisonous sanding dust too.... You sure? Light though......

Yes the foot does stick out of the mounting on the chain tensioner more than I would expect. Noticed it yesterday but didn't comment on it. It will be interesting to see what difference a new chain makes. I would've thought dizzy for that sort of problem too, wear in the dizzy shaft or weight pivots, poor condensor, dirty points, but it seems you've covered that. You don't get a constant degradation of timing on the cam because of the valve springs acting on the lobes. They push the cam backwards as the follower goes up the ramp, then push the cam forwards as the follower goes over the lobe nose and down the other side. So each valve is doing that as it runs, and it affects the dizzy too as that is driven off the cam. That pulsation workng on the slack in the dizzy gears will make the white marker bounce around on a timing light. The problem of a long trip is very interesting.