altezzaclub

Before you buy anything just pull the carb off, strip the jets out and hose petrol through all the drillings leading to them. I get a 5ml syringe to do it, but a can of carb cleaner with a long nozzle on it would do fine. Do the jets too of course. When fuel evaporates it leaves a sludge through the carbs.

How's the port spacing of the 2T compared to an 18RG?? Unlikely to match I suppose.... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-18R-18RC-CELICA-HILUX-CORONA-RARE-TWIN-SU-S-U-CARB-CARBY-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-/271170462658 Still, you could build a manifold for around that price I reckon.

A great idea! Take a look though The Girls KE70 in my sig to see what I've done, I reckon SUs are great. Manifold- well, the 'DIY' Dave found is a good idea, they can sell you the flanges and you can make a manifold to fit. Otherwise just make up the pattern from the head and get it cut in steel by an engineering company. One of the guys on here has a bro who was going to cut manifold flanges for bike quads, he could do it. I found that borrowing a spare head made life easy as it kept the car on the road while I worked on getting all the throttle links and extractors fitted, & made up the airbox.

Same question Reggie, how much money have you got? You can easily sink $4000 into a 4K if you want it fast and reliable. You can make a nice, easy-to-drive, under-the-cop's-radar 4K that keeps up with the traffic easily enough. What's the car going to be used for? What experience do you ahve in modifying motors? How much work can you do and how much will you have to pay for? Read this topic & start a new thread with all the questions- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/ ..and take a look at what I did on my daughter's- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

3K combustion chamber is about 29ml, 4K about 31ml. You'd have to measure them yourself to be accurate.

If it were a rally car you'd aim for- -the shock to sit about 2/3 out of the strut when parked. This means it has twice as much room to go down as go up. You alter that with spring length or moving the spring base up the strut. So find a stiffer/longer spring or re-weld the spring seat higher up. -the spring to be stiff enough to just have the coils hitting each other in the biggest bump you hit. So after a rally I take a look at our nice yellow springs and see if we are coil-binding more than the middle three coils. Usually the dirt is marked from the coils touching and that is just fine. -The front shocks to be stiffer going down than up. This is the hard one to get, as road shocks work the other way around- they pull the car down and hold it down to stop roll/keep a low center of gravity. You want them to resist the car going down and move it back up quickly. Google 'shock foot valve' and learn about them. The movement you feel when you bounce on the car is done by tiny castellations in the outside of the valve ring, they are used to bleed oil in/out when the car rolls in corners. The main valve doesn't open then, that happens when the weight of the car lands on the shock from a bump. If the car bounces up/down too much you need the shock stiffer in that direction, so make a hole smaller or block it off with epoxy, or stiffen the flexible steel valves with a washer. Change to a thicker oil to stiffen both up and down damping. This is the black art of custom suspension tuning you are getting into, no-one knows all the answers... Rear shocks & springs need to be soft going down so the car squats and transfers weight to the rear tyres for traction. Same problem, if the springs coil-bind more than a couple of coils or the diff hits the exhaust/body you'll have to raise the car or stiffen the shocks. The Celica was just right by the time we finished, it barely hit the exhaust but squatted right down onto the soft bump stops we had. You want it as soft as you can drive it without it bouncing around. Rear shocks are all cartridges, so you can't adjust them. Take the front sway off and try it, it will eliminate some of the understeer but remember it will have more of a tendency to tuck the front outside wheel under and roll. Have you welded the diff? Don't weld the teeth/gears together, just fill opposing teeth with weld so two gears rotate until a pair of teeth hit a weld, and then the gears can rotate back again. This stops the terrible weldy understeer most welded diffs have.

Only if they're original wet struts and not inserts. Pull them apart and examine the footvalve on the bottom of the piston. Take a shim washer out from the side that allows extention, ie when the car's nose goes upwards. Alternatively you could make the holes that allow oil down through the valve bigger, so the shaft rises easier. There is special shock absorber oil available, it has a low viscosity but most importantly a high viscosity index, which shows it holds that viscosity over a wide temperature range. You can get 4 or 5 viscosities. If you use a low Vi oil they shocks start off good then go soft as they heat up.

You could change the coil, the resistor coil is designed to run at a lower voltage than the non-resistor GT40, and you're probably tripling the voltage being fed into it. On the rally Celica Steve fitted a GT40 with the Spitfire electronic setup. Then again, I fitted the 5K electronic dizzy to my KE70 and never touched the coil. If it dies I'll replace it then. Just run the GT40R without the resistor fitted and open the plug gaps to about 35thou..

Sigma lower control arms for camber. You could PM Insanity and see if you can buy the pair off the rally celica in my signature. I'd expect Celica struts to fit too, but you'll have to learn how to calculate spring rates to really find something to lift the nose. Either modify wet struts (or use the most knackered old inserts you can find) to let the nose come back up quickly (the opposite of road shocks) or you'll have it diving into the ground over bumps.

I figure the theory is that you have to hit a dyno or fit an oxy sensor & fuel mixture display to get it right. They will tell you the fuel:air mix under driving conditions, but it all depends on porting and cams and cam timing and compression and ignition timing and... So most stuff is pretty broad in scope. I've seen graphs of Weber jet usage, but the 'lines' are areas on a curve.

I removed the broken windscreen carefully, just as practice for getting a good one out of another car. I'll do a complete How-To sometime, but you use a hammer and screwdriver to dig the sealant out from beside the glass. Then its out with the welding wire and two bits of wood to follow a spray of detergent. This cuts the remaining sealant away from the body. The wire doesn't last long when sawing it against steel or glass, so expect to change it often. Don't lose the two little blocks of rubber at the bottom, they hold the new screen at the right height when you're gluing it in. This all worked for the Celica when I fitted a screen from the spares car, so I'm hoping it works again. Josh said the seat smacked him in the back during the roll, so I stripped one. There is a bar across the back of it at the small of your back height, and it is welded between the frame rails. It would be a much better design if they had welded that bar behind the rails to give some clearance, but then the seat cover woudn't look so cool. I'll get some 3-ply panels and slide them over the front of that bar and also above the two little ones under the seat base. That will make the seat firmer but you won't have steel bars exposed. So, I'm back in Orange frantically catching up, Steve is at Uni and I'll go back up at the end of next week when he has Uni holidays until after Easter. Lots to be done!

I hauled the motor into the workshop, but with the rain the grass was so muddy I had to jack it up onto the concrete. We paid a gazillion dollars for the adapter plate to put a J160 onto a 4A motor, but now we need to machine the thickness of the plate off the bell-housing. We stripped the T-series diff from the Celcia and found we had a bearing problem- ...and an axle problem! Both caused when the car rolled we assume. The boot and the bonnet have been outside with weights on while the silicon sets to glue the frame back onto the panel. (a typical Corolla problem!)

I pulled the firewall out of the Celica and found the parcel shelf was miles too big. A hit with the grinder sorted that out, but although the width was good the Celica had much higher guards. So I cut an insert from the offcut and bent it into shape- Now it needs a line of silicon and some rivets to join it to the main sheet, and they can both be fixed in. This doesn't seal the boot from the cabin, as the "C" pillars are hollow and wide open. This shot was taken through the tail-light hole and shows where the C-pillar joins the boot to the roof, which I'll seal that with urethane foam. It may burn but it stops the fuel flooding into the roof while you're upside down and getting out. I stripped a door in my spare time and found a massive anti-intrusion bar across it, the same as in the Celica. This weighed 8kg in The Big Girl, and makes plastic windows look a waste of money. The rear doors will get it stripped out for sure, and probably the front also as I'd rather have a pipe welded inside top of the door at a height where it does more work to protect the crew.

There are two problems with your Roman cart-axles. They 'wind-up' under acceleration then snap straight to give you axle-tramp which bounces the rear wheels up and down on the ground. The anti-tramp bars stop the leaves making an "S" shape of themselves. The other problem is that the whole diff moves around in the car because of the leaf spring's flexibility, back and forward as well as sideways. The panhard takes care of the sideways walking and the anti-tramp setup helps with the fore & aft. So the simplest solution is the anti-tramp & panhard. The next most sophisticated is your 5link from the fastback being fitted, which means mounts for the 5 arms being welded onto the chassis. I find the KE70 suspension is fine, and that is after years of driving Datsuns with IRS (independent rear suspension). Ultimately IRS is better, especially something like my Altezza, but a 5-link does the job for day to day driving. Stick your head under the TA62 and measure up what you would need to do, it shouldn't be too bad.

Backfiring into the carb? Did you re-grind the valves when you fitted the cam? Could be a valve letting flame back in, or just the overlap of the cam doing it. See if a jet change fixes it first.

Why not use the leafs then fit a pair of anti-tramp bars to stop them winding up, and a panhard rod to keep the diff in place. The anti-tramp bars require welding front mounts on by the spring mounts, although this guy bolted them on in a clever way. The panhard needs a chassis mount and a diff mount. I'd expect the TA62 panhard rod to be fine.

Head gaskets blow when the head gets warped between 2 and 3, so its probably dumping compression into the water from #2. I've got the same on my new car, but its not bad enough to panic over yet, just starts on 3cyl for 20seconds and bubbles come out the rad. The big decision is, do you do any other mods while the head is off?? Skim for higher comp, fit extractors, fit twin carbs... which is what I'm thinking about now..... Don't forget to solve the problem that caused it to overheat in the first place! You wouldn't want to blow a second gasket... The previous owner replaced the leaking radiator, but was ripped by a garage for new plugs, leads, dizzy and a stack of stuff chasing the very obvious head gasket misfire!

Auto or manual? Auto I'll bet, they are pathetic, drop back to 2nd on any hill but shouldn't stall. Best cause would be- timing is miles retarded from not being tuned in forever... check points gap and timing. Free to fix. Option B- a blocked jet or passage in the carb causing it to just get enough fuel to run but no more. In that case it won't haul ass in any gear, so just see what speed it easily gets to in 2nd with your foot flat down. Along with that would be fuel pump and anything else that blocks the fuel flow, and same diagnosis, as giving it a good blast will empty the fuel bowl. You could check that when it dies on a hill- Just switch it off immediately and take the top off the carb to see how full the bowl is, or even flip the throttle wide open a couple of times and see if a jet of fuel gets squirted down the carb throat by the accelerator pump. That's not as good as taking the top off the carb, painful as it is. Worst cause would be a lack of compression due to a worn motor, so a compression test would tell you. Check out The Girls KE70 in my sig, do the same as we did!

Anywhere between 9.6 and 10 to one, depending on what you want to use it for, what fuel you're going to use and what cam you're going to run. If you're talking psi on a compression test, then 130 would be the minimum for a motor that runs, 150 would be a good motor, and above that would be great. They should all be within 5 or 10psi.

I'm glad someone rescued the master patterns... One day they will all have a cleanout and throw away all our K cam profiles, sometimes they are not even listed on webages.

Looks like a great education in suspension geometry coming up... We bought the J160-4AGE adapter plate from Niteparts in NZ. Working our way through it now, you need to machine the whole front face off the bellhousing to allow for the plate thickness. keep at it!

That is sadly common! I think they wear a goove in the rocker or valve as they shrink the gap and then re-setting them causes them to 'jump' over the groove they have worn. Both mine are like that. Nice alloys, good to see its slowly coming on.

A couple of hours on friday morning had the front suspension stripped. The nuts and bolts are in the blue blik with an inch of petrol in getting cleaned. If you're going to buy a water blaster, don't expect the high-pressure washer to be a high-pressure cleaner! You still end up with a paint scraper scraping the mud and grease off afterwards... Its better to hire a big one if you're stripping an cleaning a car. Some brakecleaner and a wire brush was followed up with a coat of Steve's expensive manifold paint as it was the only stuff lying around.. I cleaned 30years of leaves and dirt out of the scuttle, a favourite rusting place also. The air compressor showed it to be perfect, a car body that is better that a lot of road-going favourites out there. The bonnet got a little panel-beating where the tree fell on it, as did the front driver's headlight area. The boot and bonnet are both lying in the grass supported by bits of wood with random weights pressing the frames down while some silicon sets I hope. That will join the frames to the panels again. Then I had the afternoon off while Rich and I measured the combustion volumes of his 3K and 4K heads, the valve sizes, the head areas and the dish in his new 5K pistons... seems the 345K should be a flyer... This morning is lost while I attend The Girl's graduation for her BSc, but hopefully Steve and I will be in the Woolshed this afternoon, there's a lot for him to see and even more to do!

Wednesday.. I found 6M of pipe for a special project I have in mind, but it was buried in the grass under a pile of steel. So even the Brontosoarer got off its fat butt and had to do some work... Sure enough, the grinder made short work of the wheel well and I re-cut the Celica's alloy plate to fit the Ke70. That's when I found out the cars aren't quite identical and two tank mounting bolts went down into an internal chassis section.. maybe it wasn't a case of just swapping it over... One of them I've moved in the frame to clear the rail and will weld a stud onto it, and the other I've drilled an access hole so I can slip a long socket up inside the rail. The floor panel is now permanent, but I reckon this time I might paint the frame and tank! Pete (Steve's dad) dropped in, so he gave me a hand with the rear window. Now, the theory is that those rubber seals allow water under the seal then drain it out, but people see a leak and glue them in with Mastic and silicon... so the correct way to get a rear window out is to carve yourself a wooden 'knife', clean out under the rubber seal inside and out, and spray it with detergent/water. Then you can worked a rope under the rubber, (I used a stray electric lead lying around) and you lie on your back to gently push against the window with your feet while a mate steadies it outside. Theory hell, the rubber was so well glued in that we worked the glass out of its frame, Pete freeing it with the wooden knife whiile I lay inside and pushed! I firmed up my ideas on the seat mounts, I reckon a square box length welded across each side will be best. I'll incorporate the main cage hoop onto it, and drop down a false floor on the nav side the give the battery a flat mount. I'd love to chop the whole sunken floor out on each side, just around that chalk line. Then I'd beat it flat and weld it back in so we have another 50mm clearance under the car, as those rear footwells got smashed by rocks in the Celica, & tore up the seat mounts on the floor. However, Steve wants it quick and easily transferred to the next car, so no chopping up the bodywork....

...and its started again! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page__gopid__680040#entry680040