altezzaclub

Ah- that one is too long and too delicate to ship. Thye are really hard to get off without denting them, and just as hard to get back on and make them stay on.

A cage would make every car safer, you only have to look at motorsport or movie stunts.. the question is really, WHY don't the Govt allow them and even encourage their fitment? All their crash tests are just straight into some object, never about safety as you roll down a bank after hitting that kangaroo. Fit the cage if you can, and it only has to meet the minimum CAMS requirents for your racing, so make it in the smallest diameter pipe allowed so it is less intrusive. Back in the 80s I had a weekend warrior & we used a size smaller than the minimum required but with thicker walls, and had an engineer approve it.

Which is the upper chrome strip? The long one along the gutter??

Sounds good- put a whole build thead up about it!

Nope, well, not in KE70. They were never sold here so are really rare, only in Aussie if people imported them 'specially. South Africa had them, I don't know where else but I'm sure they got to NZ.

The cars are cheap here in Australi for the next few years, maybe a decade, until they all get destroyed. A couple of hundred dollars might get you one with a reasonable body and a blown-up engine, or $500 for a running car. Over $1000 will buy a really straight nice one. Then several thousand dollars to ship it to Malta! How much do you want to spend? You can ask shipping companies at your end what it will cost to get a car from Australia to Greece or Italy and then ferry it over.

Change it yourself, there is nothing easier- Pull yours off and pull it apart to check the carbon brushes, as they're the only parts that wear out (except the bearings, which you would hear) What is wrong with yours?

Doing anything to the carb system won't have much effect if you don't do the exhaust and a cam grind as well. The 4K will run a 45DCOE just fine if you do the other mods, as they will run twin 40DCOEs OK. What chokes do you have for the 45?

Research mini-spools some more. I've never used one but as far as I know they lock the diff in both directions, like welding the teeth together. This means it understeers as the locked rear wheels push the car straight forward, then it slides all over the place as the diff forces both rear tyres to lose grip together. You lose power as the tyres fight against each other too, but if you can get one wheel to lift off the ground partly it will spin easier. So they work fine in some corners and not in others. We filled in matching teeth in the spider gears so the diff works for maybe 1/4turn before one pair of gear teeth hit the filled in ones. This gave much better turn-in before it all let go in the rear. We're in for an LSD for the new car.

Ah, but wait! Look inside! So the wrecker wants $60 for the six bits, I'll take $25 on top to get them, and if they're what you want I'll ask the post office how much mailing will be. cheers

The blue passenger side- Blue drivers rear- But the driver's window has had it removed!

OK, are these the ones? The wrecker has a beige car and a blue car both with chrome strips. The vertical chrome strip up the rear 'C' pillar. Beige passenger front- Beige passenger rear- Beige drivers rear- ..and sadly no driver's door!

OMG! They make such a cute convertible!

Not bad... a contender for the world's first convertible KE10?? That would save chasing glass...

Holy shit that's bad news! Soon after you'd bought the bike too. Still, you're lucky to be alive really, bikes and cars don't mix well.

Ah- speaking of that, what are you doing about a limited slip unit??

Is it just me or will engine tilt rip this off straight away??

Make sure you have the suspension travel sorted out carefully or bottoming out will knock the shock mount off the diff won't it? The weight of the car at 2G currently goes into the top of the diff with the shock taking a portion of that to slow the motion down, whereas you will put all that force through the mount pin. Whichever motor you pick, I'd look at dry-sumping it as you will be buuilding up some great sideways force and oil surge will be a problem. The cage will be another interesting design as you want stiffness around the suspension but not a lot of weight added. For some reason most cages have a lot of steel in the back seat where it does nothing but slow you down. Are you going to use twin master cylinders on the brake setup?? I can't see you ever needing that hydraulic handbrake in time attack or hillclimbs, they're really just a bling factor. You might pull some ideas out of our builds of rally cars on here, and from Steerfast's current one. Are you going to seam weld the shell?? I'm currently hunting down weld bolts or steel rivets as an option as seam welding concentrates the force along the weld and encourages it to crack, while fasteners in the center of the seam allow some flex around them while holding both panels together. Don't forget an adjustable cross-strut bar!

When I took the gold KE70 up to the farm three weeks ago I unloaded it, chatted to everyone for an hour, & then we thought we'd take it down the pub for dinner. It started, ran about 10M and died, and wouldn't restart... We used a different car and the next day I poured some fuel down the carb and it fired up. I took it up to Coolangatta that day and parked it at the hospital where my bro' was. After a couple of hours I went to drive it home.. it started, ran for 10M and died! We left it in the car park and the next day I poured fuel down the carb and it started. If I just left it overnight without re-starting it then it was fine. Back down on the farm I watched it and found the fuel was pushed back down the line from the pump and it even emptied the filter, so it wouldn't run once it used the carb bowl of fuel as the pump was full of air. Overnight the vapour condensed and pulled the fuel back to the pump, but for that hour or two it had no chance of starting. A blow down the return line with a compressor seems to have fixed it, it's been fine since. I suppose I should've disconnected the return line at the tank and blown the shit into a jar, now the tank is full of silver and black shit too! I wondered if the return line actually did anything!

OK, I'll pop down the wrecker on Monday and get some prices and photos.

Got a smartphone? Richo d'loaded some dyno app for a couple of bucks and it is most impressive. Then all you need is a flat bit of road you can do 0-110 times on. Start a new topic to see which apps guys are using, or I can ask him which one he got if you want. We're going to compare his 345K with stock and modded KE70s next time I go up. I assume the cam will run on the stock pin, so it can't be adjusted, and you can play with jets in the carb and ignition timing.

I can ask the wrecker how much he wants for them if you like. So long as you don't want the long ones on the gutters then I should be able to package them OK. LoL! One of my KE70s has chrome and the other has black rubber.. I never noticed!

Can anything be done about the manifold and the sharp corners the air goes around?? Were those aftermarket larger venturis Coln? Cna the stock ones be filed larger? I suppose twin carbs would feed 2.4L at the same performance level as a stock 1.2L single-carb, so they should wind 1.5L right off the tacho....

fair enough- you can always fit anti-tramp rods to the rear if it walks about on its leaf springs, and some longer LCAs in the front will give it an unnoticable touch of negative camber that helps the handling a lot. Richo has his sacked to the ground, in fact I had to take the rear bump stops out to give it some travel, and while it looks cool in a JDM sort of way the ride is horrible!

Shame- I thought the Gisbourne was NZ's, some great driving arond there. Yeah, build a racy little car if you're not stuck in Melbourne traffic, something that goes up hills without changing down and cruises at 100kph all day. What are you planning for the suspension?