altezzaclub

Nah- get an Exel, dirt cheap and cheerful, reliable, millions around as first cars and they even have their own rally class! Unless you want a RWD, in which case there is no option to a Corolla! A BMW is far too costly as a first car (either buying or maintaining) and the rest of the RWDs are impractical sports 2-seaters like RX7s and Nissan Sylvias. I remembered why I love them this morning when it was just drizzling with rain and I had traffic islands to drive around.... Just try not to crash it... we will run out of KE70s one day and they aren't as survivable as newer cars.

So what are you going to do?? It is no good driving it like that. The options really are to put it on a dyno for an hour while you check the mixture under load and try various jets to get it right. If the dyno man has a box of jets that fit you just buy the ones you need. or you could do it yourself but you'll have to buy an oxy sensor and a mixture display, and then keep buying jets until you get the right ones. that's still cheaper than buying jet drills and making small jets larger.

Sounds right- how is the fuel usage compared to stock?? Rich runs cool, lean runs hot.

Ah, OK- a plug misses a firing so one cylinder has to be jammed up on compression for no gain? That gives a quick misfire/cutout. If the compressions are low or the oil is getting up into the cylinders that will give it a midfire too. Check how clean the plugs are when you have them out for a compression test. If you go driving first to warm them up and don't let it idle before you turn it off you will get a better idea or how oily they are when running. You might as well buy a compression gauge as they are fairly cheap and you'll use it planty of times over the years. Maybe the coil/points/condensor take out a couple of firings that drop the revs more. That would be more noticeable as it kills several firings in succession. If you fiddle with the wiring while its running can you make it do it?? ..and the next time it rains at night take a look under the bonnet if you're driving. That's the ideal time to see green sparks jumping everywhere as leads and coils break down. Carb problems are usually slower acting on the revs and usually repeatable.

I'd say the tacho jumps but not the motor... 4Ks don't "jump" in revs at any time! If a faulty PCV was bleeding air/oil vapour from the crank to the inlet manifold it would affect the idle speed a lot. If the compression rings are worn/broken then compression will bleed down into the block and yes, the PCV will burn more oil vapour. Compressions will be low on a compression test. If the oil rings are worn then oil will go up into the cylinder and be burnt out the exhaust, causing that hazy blue smoke when you acclerate. The compression test may be normal if the compression rings are still OK. So, how many Km per litre of oil?? What compressions on the cylinders??

What a guy! I'd believe him when it comes to evaluating which fighter was best, at least he has flown all of them! Nothing sounds better than a big Merlin coming out of a dive, I miss Auckland's Warbirds over Howick.

Been there, done that- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45 The vac advance is only to advance the timing at cruising speed when the mixture is running lean. It helps with fuel efficiency and emissions. The moment you accelerate it collapses and you run on the springs and weights. Mark out the crank pulley and generate your own advance curve, and see how it compares to mine.

Any advantage in standing the rear shocks up vertical?? Doesn't matter if you chop 'n weld a turret in each side of the boot floor, its not regoe'd.

Measure yours and compare it to mine- I fitted the Celcia's into a KE70 and the difference was not noticeable, but your KE will be narrower again. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65709-how-to-fit-a-celica-diff-to-a-ke70/

Yep- Yep again- try and tuck them against a chassis rail on the body, they do get stressed and will crack on a stock mount if you drive hard enough. I took it back and the gingerbeer checked it, and even showed me it on the balancer. I wonder if its eccentric even if in balance, but I'm changing the diff head to a 4.1 right now so I'll see what its like afterwards.

OMG! The Shed!! THE SHED!!! That body is going to be sooo neat and clean...

Do you have a wirng diagram for it, both the original KE70 and how the 4AGE was patched into it?? ..and did it run fine before this or are you just wiring it up before driving it with the new motor??

Jono is right, it is easist to put leaf springs on the Celica diff. You could keep the lower arms as anti-tramp rods, but they will need to pivot on the same distance forward as the leaves do. They have to move in the same arc as the diff goes up and down, while the rear of the leaf is flexible in length on its swinging rear coupling. Probably the stock 5-link mounts on the diff will interfere with the leaf mounts, so the two bars will have to have their mounts moved over. The panhard could be used too, but there is a large mount to make for it on the chassis. To mount the top arms you will probably have to change the floor, so if you're in for making floor pan changes then use all the five link arms on the TA60 diff. A lot of work and no chance of rego I expect. The one-piece driveshaft will be OK, its not that long, but making sure it is balanced correctly is the trick. Mine still vibrates around 60kph and really annoys me, so I'll have to find another engineer to re-do it..

Mine used push the fuel backwards through the pump, through the filter and leave an air lock in the filter every now and then. The airlock collapsed overnight and the fuel came back, but occasionally if I fired it up after an hour or two it ran for a minute on the carb bowl full of fuel and died. It wouldn't suck fuel back along the line so I had to pull the line off at the steel pipe and put it in a jar of fuel... Its all due to the fuel vapourising from the underbonnet heat when you park and pressure building up in the lines. My solution seems to be turning the fuel filter upside down so the bubbles can escape back to the tank without emptying the filter. I expected the return line to handle all this, same as it should in your case. I've blown my return clean with compressed air but it didn't solve the problem. Certainly check the fuel line for tightness and cracks, but if that is OK then make sure the return line is working.

Take the plastic cover off in the boot floor and check the wiring, Something may have come off or broken. Make sure its getting 12V there and the guage goes to Full if you short the wire to earth.

Yep- I took the 2" extractors along a 2" pipe to the longest 2" resonator we counld get, fitted under the passenger's floor as usual. From there it is 1.75" back to a "sports" muffler, an 'open center' tri-chamber that absorbs noise well while still flowing cleanly. That sounds good on the road and is fine inside the car, it runs with a cam and twin SU carbs, although it is still drony after a couple of hours at 100kph. That's all on a 4K. build is here with a couple of sound files- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

That's very telling. #3 is not working at idle, but sounds like it works OK when the revs are up. That would suggest idle circuit on that cyl if you're running twin sidedraughts, possibly the idle tuning. Plug and lead can be swapped to check them. ------------------------ Ah- stock motor and carb back in- Check compressions as a burnt valve is more noticeable at idle too.

...and you can unbolt an engine mounts and lift the motor as much as you can until you can stick some timber spacers under the mounts. Another 50mm makes a big difference. I've forgotten what jams first, exhaust or bell housing.

basically yes- Screw the idle mixture in then out 1.5turns, warm it up, screw up the idle speed until it idles then slow it down as much as you can to keep it going smoothly. Then screw the idle mixture in and out to get the fastest and smoothest idle, and finally set the speed as slow as it will go nicely. If it just dies quickly as you slow it down then there's a problem, like a blocked jet. Winding the idle screw out makes it richer, so you run it as far in as you can with a good even idle. When you rebuilt the carb did you take out the jets and clean behind them in the drillings? I just use a syringe full of petrol to hose fuel through the passages, others use compressed air. If shit builds up when the carb is left dry for a year or two it will impede fuel flow.

$30 or a tray of beers. Should take less than half an hour, and 15minutes would be more like it.

So... anyone using a dyno app on their smartphone??? It would be lovely to see a comparison of the app straight after a dyno run on a machine.

You'll have to make sure those vacuum pipes on the carb are all sealed or the air leak will stop it idling. What happens if you wind the idle speed screw up and up?? Just get it idling at any speed to start with. Then you can play with the idle mixture and speed to get it right. But first, you can check the timing by hand- Take the lead out of the coil and take the dizzy cap off. Turn the crank to 10deg before TDC on the front pulley, you can see which way the rotor spins as you do it. The Turn on the ignition, then loosen the dizzy and turn it back a few degrees. Turn it forward until the points just open and the coil sparks. Turn it back and move it forward again a couple of times until you have the dizzy where it just sparks. Then tighten it up. That will set the timing to about 10deg, good enough to run on forever. Once you have the timing right, set the carb up. Adding advance to the timing will increase idle speed, retarding it will slow the idle, so you set timing first. Maybe the timing is too retarded right now so it won't idle. ..or maybe its leaking air in, or the idle speed screw is set too low, or the idle jet/drillings are blocked, or the float level is too high and it is flooding, or...

Nope- The solenoid shuts fuel off when you turn off the key, so as long as it is working it won't affect the engine at other times. Has it run OK with this carb in the past?? Is it a constant miss or one that happens occasionally. Does it affect the way the car drives off from idle, ie, does it miss under power?

Are you going to close the box on the bottom of the LCAs?? The Celcia's were open "C" section and I was surprised how smashed up they got. We didn't close them right up afterwards, just the middle section. Same on the g'box crossmember after that was bent to hell.

Abysmal! He's got an intensive school for one week of these holidays and a "handling chemicals" course in the other, so no time on the car from back in June sometime until the end of the year after exams and work experience... Next year we should be right! He finished Uni this year and then we can concentrate on important things!