altezzaclub

More photos... ..of the missus! You were so lucky to get a shell with such odd things done to it. Still, a gigantic job to complete.

Ah- Dave picked that up too.. Put a stock front one back on and a Celica RA40 or RA60 one on the rear. Then try the front one that is on it and find a larger rear again. Someone on here was selling 19mm rears a while back. Unless you really like driving wth factory understeer of course! Other than that it looks a good buy, except the paint and the cannon! I'd paint it white so no-one takes any notice of it, and get the biggest tri-chamber muffler you can. If it doesn't have a resonator under the passenger's seat I'd grab one of those too. I like growly with big flow rather than raspy and noisy. I assume you didn't get any change out of about $4500!

Try this-

I always have been too, but I've got no figures to show that they are any worse than paper. Hence all the agricultural panel steel on The Girls KE70 for an airbox with a paper filter.

I've got KE70 if you can't find an AE71 version. Depends what part you're after- most of the wiring must be identical.

Now, I assume that is what is on the car, right?? So it needs larger front pistons or smaller rear, or a limiter to stop pressure building up in the rear. Fronts do 70-80% of the braking so they need to be that much bigger without a limiter.

You will have to make sure the m'cyl is coming all the way off. The pintle in the front of the booster is usually ajustable to set the 'stop' point of the m'cyl pistons moving back. If they stay a couple of mm too far forward the brakes will go on but not release correctly. Hence the burning smell and hot brakes... the other explanation would be dirty pistons/calipers in the front so the pistons jam forward. Were all these components stripped and cleaned before use? What are the ratios of the front disc piston area, the rear disc pistons and the m'cyl diameter like?? This will set the brake bias initially and if you have a mish-mash of different vehicles you have probably upset it. Pick one vehicle and match those three parameters. Pad area is also a factor but I don't think it is as important. If you can't get the piston areas right then you can fit a brake force limiter in either front or rear line. It sounds like the one in the rear line (if there is one) is incorrect and letting too much force onto the rear pistons so they lock up. They used to be a separate unit down the back, but modern cars have them built into the junction box on the firewall. We used to drill and tap one end of the unit to fit a bolt that held the spring back and gave us adjustable limiting.

Not a timing vibration? Too much advance causing it to try and run backwards under some circumstances? One cyl not pulling its weight? Compression or bad plug or lead.

Did you take out the little bolt from underneath. It allows the piston to move forward but stops it coming out the back.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027-how-not-to-build-a-rally-car/page__p__641089#entry641089 There are bits still lying around.... motor, gearbox, weldy diff, body parts..... Some front suspension that doesn't fit the KE70, but we will be using the Bilsteins. Maybe the Sigma LCAs, doors, glass.... the shell is out the back. PM insanity and talk to Steve. Where are you building it? Need a hand?

I went to the trouble to tap all 4 and T-junction them once, but I don't think it was worth it. The brake and dizzy lines don't really flow any air, they suck against a diaphram and only bleed in a tiny amount when you brake. If you have the PCV set up as factory, the rocker cover vent will flow air from the crankcase under acceleration, which in theory will lean out one cylinder slightly. If you think about how many litres/sec of air is getting sucked in down that carb throat, and how little the rocker vent adds, it may not even be notcieable.. 6000rpm=3000'inlets' on one cyl of 425cc, so 0.425X3000/60L/sec or 225L/sec of fuel and air... Seeing the PCV is only open at low inlet vacuum there is not much suck at all pulling air in from the rocker cover and around the PCV valve itself. If you suck on an open PCV valve you'll get a litre or two a second. If you're keen, put the brake into one manifold and the PCV into the other. See if you can find one cyl running leaner than the others.

From what I remember, the 40idle was too small so Richo took the 50s from the rally car Webers.. Mains were 120-130 and airs 180 I think, a bit richer than what you have there. The terrible thing is, all you can do is try different combinations to overcome the shifting problems as you change each item, so you end up with a collection of jets that don't work!

I think Richard is running 30chokes in his 345K. He had 32s in but they were flat low down I think it was. Someone on here had 32s and tried 30s then went down to 28s for the best performance. He is using a 3K head on a 4K bored out to 5K pistons, and he ported the head himself to suit the DCOE. Its certainly a giant improvement on the 4K, even though its the same carb and extractors. Anyway, I'll point him in this direction and he can tell you.

That's excellent, the same basic mechanical/electronic one I've got. I changed the springs in mine to change the curve, you could fit heavier springs or wire stops to limit how much it advances.

What's wrong with it? Can you read a wiring diagram?? They're nice straightforward pieces of machinery, so you can work out most problems with them.

Expect to cut the bump stops off at the rear and have tubular ones fitted to the rear shocks. Keeping any sort of ride quality is the difficult part of getting that low. The yellow one looks good!

I can't see that power steering would add anything good to the car, the actual steering box and geometry remains the same. Sure, it would be easier to turn, but they are easy enough just as they are. You will have to fit the power steering actuator to the steering arms, which adds weight, the hoses to the pump, the pump itself, which not only adds weight but adds drag to the motor, a fanbelt system to drive the pump, and sometimes cars run a coolant system for the oil. With all that you still need to add a reservoir for the oil. Power steering sucks enough power out of the motor to stall a 2L SR20 Nissan engine if I turn sharply into a driveway while the engine is dropping to idle in my wife's Pulsar. I don't know if the KE20 was ever produced with power steering, probably not, so you will have to modify the whole system off some similar car. Most cars from 1980 have rack and pinion steering, so their gear won't fit. I can't say what the average fuel consumption is on them, but I'm sure you should get under 7L/100km on a trip and under 8l/100km around town. That's what I'm getting from my 4K. You can do a lot to that little motor if you want, but I'm not sure how easy it is to get parts like twin carbs, a cam grind and extractors in Sri Lanka. The first thing to look for would be a 4K or a 5K motor for sale, even if you buy it and put it aside until you're ready to modify everything. You can use your 3K head on the 4K block to good advantage in increasing the compression, and also on the shallow-dish piston 5K motor.

Well, that was to be proved in real life for a while. Weren't the car clubs talking about having to do repeated emergency stops from 160kph to conform to the latest ideas from Govt? Before mandating bigger brakes I feel the 'authorities' should have to prove the stock brakes are inadequate. It just seems to be a myth that bigger brakes are needed when you fit a bigger engine, even if stock brakes will lock the tyres up. Once those tyres are locked it doesn't matter how much bigger your brakes are.

If you want a road trip, contact Insanity. There are a few extra KE70s on the farm near Armidale.

I doubt that you can, athough I'd love to find out that you can! The Hall Effect sensor tells the dizzy when to fire the coil, the dizzy software reads the sensor input against time and it ramps up the advance according to a fixed curve. To play with the timing you need a programmable ECU, which these days you can buy I think. Just use an old mechanical dizzy you can lock. Sell the electronic one for a hundred bucks or fit it to another 4K.

What's the story with compression ratio and boost?? How much boost will it take at the stock compression? I'm not a turbo man, but some guys on here have done it all & I'm sure they have sorted the problems with that.

..which is what I used to use in the 1960s.. Kero and diesel 50:50, fire the motor up and let it idle for a few minutes. Maybe turn it off and leave it overnight, then fire it up again and idle it before dropping it out and changing the filter. It won't lubricate the bearings under load, so don't drive it or rev it.

Either charge the battery overnight or jump with another battery as well. Just make sure there is a spark at a spark plug. Make sure there is petrol being pumped down the throat when you hit the accelerator. I know the pump on my gold car is dodgy and that makes it hard to start. Then pour about 20ml of petrol straight down the carb and start it on full choke.

Ah- the good old days! The Quattro was AWESOME, in the real meaning of the word! A big brutal pig with an unmistakable howl...

I've never seen one, and the only one I remember reading about on here in Aussie was imported from the USA and converted to RH drive. You might have to do that. Chase Club-K in NZ as I'm sure some ended up there, and also in South Africa. Cape Town's Box Boys are on AE86drivingclub forums, the KE70 is The Box Corolla over there. The Phillipines have their own version as the Charmant, you might grab one of those. The difference is in this post, but you can Google them anytime. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/25896-ae71-2-door/ They are the coolest car, but so rare.