altezzaclub

Ok, learn about tuning it- You should have the tappet gaps correct, or can check them after a month. Points gap correct, and if you change it or they wear it affects timing too. Plugs gaps checked. Timing with a timing light preferably, 8-10deg before TDC although they will run well with a little more advance. Set the carb mixture for best idle and then set the idle speed. Stacks on Youtube about how to do those jobs, or ask on here, and you'll be set! My blue car always runs at 1/3 up the temp gauge, my gold car a tad higher just under the halfway mark. I use a bit of garden hose, about 1.5M long, and a plastic funnel to do g'box and diff oil. Prop the funnel up against the car and feed the hose into the filler hole, then pour g'box oil in slowly. You can buy filler bottles, some you squeeze the oil up a curved steel spout, and flash ones that you pump the oil along a hose.

Arrr.. in that direction lies madness! Madness, I tell you! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=63896

Well, its six months next week, time for another update! I'll bet its not back together, but is it ready for the new motor?

If it cranks the starter is OK. Jump the diagnostics and see what's in there. Pop a plug or 4 and see if you have spark, or just use a timing light. Can you hear the fuel pump? If you crank it with a plug or 4 out, can you smell raw fuel. Its either missing fuel or spark.....

Mount a thick-wall exhaust tube diagonally down inside the door. Just weld feet on the ends and bolt them into the frames of the door. The stock bars are very heavy and don't have much depth in the direction of crush, making them weaker than they should be. That was to allow the window to go up and down past them, so if you're not having an opening window you can use a deeper metal section.

Nice!

Nice score! Its worth more than you paid in 4AGE conversion parts alone.. Which carbs are those? What throat size?

I'll take a look. I think the import engines all come just like yours, so the most likely place will be NZ.

Found it- I knew I had it in Altezzaclub somewhere.. G1 - 1998 - 2001 3SGE 6MT G2 - 1998 - 2001 3SGE 5AT G3 - 2001 - 2005 3SGE 6MT G4 - 2001 - 2005 3SGE 5AT So not engine age only, also gearbox type. The auto & manual motors have differences or the manual to rev better. That's a pretty average price for the setup, it will make a great KE70. Check out Altezzaclub if you need odd parts.

Take the head off and strip it. Have the valves ground (or do them yourself) and skim the head 10-20thou. Port the head out to the diameter of the one-piece manifold gasket and have your inlet manifold made to that diameter. Just let the ports smoothly return to stock diameter as they curve around the valve guide, unless you really want to get into stage two mods. Get a cam cut to 275-280deg duration. You won't need 2" exhaust pipe, inch & 3/4 will do. Put a big resonator in it and some sports rear muffler but not a hot dog. I used 2" pipe to the 2" resonator, then inch & 3/4 to the rear. Fit an electric fan. The linkage will be easy, but you will need a choke setup I expect. (no pump jets...) Check out The Girls KE70 in my sig if you haven't already. Those were all simple mods we did that made it nicely quicker without making it a dog to drive in traffic.

nice- It should have G1 or G2 or similar in yellow on the cambelt cover below the head. That will tell you how old it is. (two generations of Altezza motors) Did you get all the loomb, wiring, computer, alty, aircon with it? or will it be carbs and an aftermarket tuneable ECU? How much did you pay for the motor? Got the 6-speed too??

Spend money- Check that the KE15 d'shaft fits in the K50 g'box properly. Otherwise see if a KE70 g'box front yoke will fit your d'shaft., but expect the length to be wrong. If so, measure exactly how many mm long it needs to be and give it all to a driveshaft shop. They might have to cut the whole KE15 yoke off at the right length and weld on a KE70 one. Mine cost $225 or so to shorten 8mm.

There's topic about this within the last two weeks somewhere. Are you going to run a heat shield between exhaust and carbs? Don't forget your manifold will need ports for the dizzy vac, the charcoal canister, the brake booster and the PCV valve. Have you taken a walk around a wrecker looking for air boxes? I haven't done it, but maybe next year if I get some free time.

Nice bit of home engineering there! Do you think here is a downside of running an oil cooler? Extra drag on the flow resulting in less flow or pressure? Can you get a larger oil pump if needed? The rear bumper is nice, we're going to do the same with the rally car. It improved the look of the Celcia a lot.

Don't spend a dollar over $1000. They are 40-50yr old cheaply built pieces of shit that were worth sweet fkall when new. These are not Datsun 280Zs or Porche 911s we are talking about, these are mass-produced cheap runarounds from a country that was the newest on the car scene, just like China is today. Spend time, not money. If it takes 6months to find that unmolested granny-spec one you actually buy from a granny, that is great. Be prepared to travel. Steve and I decided to rally a KE70 after he wrote off the Celica in about March this year. Within 4months he had about 6 KE70s of various conditions, including two immaculate ones. One did literally come from a little old lady who bought it new! Leave a note on any you like, or find out who owns it and write to them. My immaculate KE70 XX came just that way... I left a note on a car in the street in some small town we were driving through. $3000??!! You'd be a sucker!

Why not have it under the accelerator? Just hit it hard enough and it comes straight on.

Ah, one great advantage you have over us... we have an accelerator, a brake booster, a brake master cyl, a steering column and a clutch m'cyl all crammed in there on your passenger's side...

yes Yes! Oh God Yes! Put it on the front roll bar at the w'screen, not back inside the car, or even outside on the B pillar. All too often you can't really see the road from the main hoop and then occasionally along comes a great video with the camera somewhere else.

The best way to go 100kph on a hot day is with no fan at all, so there are other problems in your cooling system. The fan and shroud only get in the way of airflow and make the radiator less efficient at speed. However when sitting in traffic or crawling along they are only way to get the radiator cooled, so they are a vital compromise. KE70s have a conical plastic shroud as stock on the slantys, you can probably find one of those. I think they came out with the silicon-clutch fans (the thermo-fan) so you should be able to find one. Otherwise make one up like Jamie said, but make it conical to come back to the fan blades. My '83 slanty had the thermo fan and the shroud & my '83 flat-front had a solid fan and no shroud. I fitted an electric fan to the slanty and moved its thermofan to the flat-front as that had a worn waterpump when I bought it. The slanty is modded with cam and everything , yet never runs hot and the fan only comes on after sitting and idling for 5minutes or more. The thermo-switch I bought is a 90deg one. The dead stock flatfront runs warm all the time and you can see the temp go up in the hills. The difference is that although I've had both heads off, I took the motor out of the slanty and cleaned all the rust and scale out of the water-jackets in the block. It was bridging the cylinders in places and I was surprised how much was in there. So, as Rian said, you need to make sure the rest of the cooling system is as good as new before buying a new rad and finding it makes no difference. Along with checking the pump and the t'stat, try some radiator flush stuff and hose the block out with the pump and t'stat housing off. That's the best compromise I can think of rather than pulling out the motor and cleaning the water jackets out properly.

Pull the stocking out after a week and bin it. Its done its work by then. What valve train are you swapping?? If its a 3K you just get a 3K head to replace yours. Only if you swap to a 4K or 5K head on your 3K motor will it be a problem. You re-use all your valve gear, pushrods, rockers etc and adjust the tappets to suit. Is that head of yours really useless? Have you had it looked at by a head shop?

Hey hey- Not so fast! We expect results, action photos and details of dramas! Topics can only be started, not finished! Damm, that looks nice!

No seat belt for the driver and a big spike sticking out of the steering wheel centre... Of course there will! They will put speakers under the bonnet to broadcast the right noise! ..and the safety car will still come out within the last 5 laps! ....anyway, Tander 'nearly won' in complete silence yesterday! Just how bad would he feel, same as Whincup at Bathurst.

Ah, all that work... Still in a KE70?? Can you transfer stuff across?

Absolutely! Don't take the pistons out, but get the waterways scraped out and the crankcase cleaned as much as you can. Pop the oil pump out and check it, and strip the oil filter housing and clean it, including the relief valve. I would epoxy-fill that corrosion at the back of the block, just to support the head gasket. Put a suitable bolt or dowel to plug the hole, epoxy around where it has corroded away then sand it back flat. As you noticed, the water holes near the front are not used, so water is forced to circulate through the back of the block, the furthest from the pump. You can do a lot that takes time but not money and makes it trouble-free in the future. When it all goes back together, put a lady's stocking across the top radiator pipe and put the hose over that. It will filter out the crap dislodged for the first few weeks that would otherwise block the core tubes of your newly cleaned radiator.

Moare awsome slides!